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t LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ♦ 



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{UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.* 



APPLETONS' 

SHORT-TRIP GUIDE 

TO 

1UEOPE. 

[18 6 8.] 



PRINCIPALLY DEVOTED TO 



ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, SWITZERLAND, 
FRANCE, GERMANY AND ITALY ; 



WITH GLIMPSES OP 



SPAIN, SHORT ROUTES IN TEE EAST, ETC.; AND A 

COLLATION OF TRAVELLERS' PHRASES IN 

FRENCH AND GERMAN. 



1/ 

By HENRY MORFORD, 

AUTHOR OP " OVER SEA," ".PARIS IN '67," ETC., ETC. 



68 J& 



>F~Wi\Sj2 



NEW YORK: 

D. APPLETON & CO., 90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET 

1868, 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by 

D. APPLETON & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the TJnited States for the 
Southern District of New York. 






h 



ty 



/ 



- 



i> 




TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

I. — Cost of Short European Trips, . . .5 

II. — Time Necessary on Short European Trips, . 15 
III. — Steamship Lines to Europe, with a Hint for 

" 'Hound the World," . . .24 

IV.— Preparations for " Going Over," . . 33 

V. — "What to Do and Avoid, on Shipboard, . . 47 

VI. — Look-Outs and Land-Makings, . . 57 

VII. — Entering Foreign Countries, . . . 75 

VIII. — Short Trips in Ireland, . . . 81 

IX. — Short Trips in Scotland, . . . .97 

X. — Short Trips in England, . . . 118 

XI. — Crossing the British Channel, . . .159 

XII. — Short Trips in France, . . . 162 

XIII. — Paris to Geneva, . . . . .183 

XIV. — Short Trips in Switzerland, . . 186 

XV. — Bale to Strasbourg and Baden-Baden, . . 204 

XVI. — Short Trips in Germany, . . . 210 

XVII.-r- Across the Alps to Italy, . . .231 

XVIII. — Short Trips in Italy, . . . 243 

XIX. — Short Trips in Spain, .... 278 

XX. — Hints for a Short Route in the East, . 287 

XXI. — Travellers' Phrases in French and German, 298 

XXII. — European Money in American Coin, . 321 



ADVERTISEMENT 

TO THE EDITION FOR 1868. 



The suggestion was several times made to the author- 
compiler, during the summer of 1867, at the French Expo- 
sition and elsewhere : " You are picking up materials for 
books of travel — why do you not supply what everybody 
wants : a short and comparatively-cheap Guide-Book to the 
countries of Europe offcenest visited by us hurried Americans, 
who have neither much time nor much money to spend ? 
Very few of us, in proportion, can afford to travel in more 
than one or two countries, or three, or four ; and we cannot 
expect to see all that is worth seeing, even in them. Give 
us something concise, in not-too-small type, simple, practi- 
cal and good-humored — where we can easily find what we 
want to know, and avoid finding the ten thousand things 
that we don't want to know. Tell us how to see the best 
things in the least space of time and at the least expendi- 
ture of money; and inform us, among other things, how 
much time and money ought to be consumed in making 
the best short rounds." 

The " Short-Trip Guide to Europe " is the result of that 
often-repeated suggestion, and it has been especially de- 
signed to meet that demand. The principal effort has been, 
to make it rapid, plain and practical — to -fit it especially to 
the needs of the thousands of Americans who visit Europe for 
very brief periods : absent from home for from six weeks to 
three or four months — to point out the objects which should 
be seen first, if all cannot be seen — to show where and how, 



vi ADVERTISEMENT. 

at one point and another, the short trip may be best extended 
a little or yet more — to make it an instructive (and some- 
times amusing) pocket-companion, its size especially fitting 
it for that purpose — to aid the hurried, put the raw and 
nervous at ease, save money to travellers of limited means, 
and at least lay a profitable foundation of knowledge for 
those who may intend to travel more at length, more at 
leisure, and pursue more elaborate works of the same char- 
acter. And in this connection it may be proper to say that 
while by far the larger proportion of the matter presented 
is the result of personal observation and diligent inquiry 
among intelligent travellers known to have gone over routes 
as yet unvisited by the writer — still there is an obligation 
owed to Baedeker, to Murray, and other professionals long 
in the field, and to the cosmopolitan Fetridge, whose " Har- 
per's Hand-Book " is always found available by those who 
tarry long in the Old World, instead of merely running 
through the best parts of it. 

As may be supposed, it is the intention of author and 
publishers to continue the publication of the " Short-Trip 
Guide," punctually every year, issued earlier in the follow- 
ing seasons than has been found practicable in the present — 
not an item of old or exploded matter left, from one issue to 
.another, if something newer and more interesting can be 
found to fill its place and add to the practical usefulness 
of the series. 

New York City, May, 1868. 



THE SHORT -TRIP GUIDE. 

(1868.) 



I. 

COST OF SHORT EUROPEAN TRIPS. 

Or course the question Whether to go to Europe at 
all? underlies, with Americans, both those others: 
How to go? and Where to go? The distance (of 
which something more will be said directly, ) is known 
to be great, between the New and Old Worlds, though 
it is really- only about one-eighth of that around the 
globe. 

"With many men Time is the great object, and the 
want of it the great hindrance ; though they may 
annually spend quite as much of it as would be 
necessary for a summer tour, in dawdling elsewhere, 
around home or in places seen until they have be- 
come tiresome. With a far greater number of those 
who love Nature and Art to such an extent as 
to make travel a delight, Money is the anxiety, the 
want of it the hindrance, and the belief that a mint 
is necessary for anything European, the great bug- 
bear which confines them to one continent. 



C SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

A large proportion of this is a mistake, originally 
induced by want of intelligent enquiry, and materi- 
ally added to by the exaggerations, not to call them 
falsehoods, of those "who have been over the desired 
routes. While " going to Europe " was principally 
confined to the wealthy few or those driven by busi- 
ness demands, it was at once an easy and a tempting 
thing to do, to add to the supposed importance of 
what had been done, by overstating the cost as well 
as enlarging on the personal adventure and peril ; 
and, truth to say, the habit has not yet quite died 
out, now when the many follow in the track of the 
few and detection is so much easier. Mr. Longbow, 
who supplies (as he believes) the centre at home of 
an admiring circle, not many members of which are 
likely to follow him abroad — cannot resist the temp- 
tation to show, when he returns, that he has been 
doing, in the way of cost, what they had better not 
attempt if they do not wish to. fail miserably ; and 
Madame La Mode, flaunting in home-circles the 
silks and jewelry purchased during the previous 
summer at Paris, will enlarge a little upon the cost 
of not only the silks and jewelry, but of getting into 
the " society " in which she figured in the great 
capitals. 

Travelers tell "travelers' stories,'' in a pecuniary 
as well as an adventurous point of view : that is the 
truth, briefly told ; and those stories frighten away 
many who would else enlarge their knowledge of 
life by seeing' other continents than their own. 

Not that many Americans fail to spend enormous 
amounts abroad : it is a shameful fact that we do 



COST OF TRIPS. 7 

spend more money, on an average, in travel, than 
any other nation beneath the sun. It is easy for 
the writer to recal to mind one gentleman of New 
York, without landed estates, the working of capital, 
or other resources than his own hard-working energy 
and talent, who, during two-and-a-half months of 
the summer of 1865, in England and France alone, 
and principally about London and Paris, spent, un- 
accompanied, between $7,000 and $8,000, and bor- 
rowed money in London for his passage homeward ! 
And during the summer of 1867, a well-known gen- 
tleman of fortune, of New York, visiting London 
and Paris with his wife and child, and going no step 
beyond the latter city, found the $8,000 (gold) which 
he had taken with him, insufficient, and drew on 
New York - for $2,000 additional. Very possibly 
these figures do not even approach the amount of 
money spent by each one of many wealthy or wasteful 
Americans during corresponding periods.: they are 
only given as instances happening to fall under per- 
sonal knowledge. 

So much for what may be spent in very brief 
tours, by those who can afford plenty of money, or 
think that they can do so : now for what may be 
saved, or rather for the question upon how little 
these brief tours may really be made, without dis- 
comfort or painful compromise of position. 

There was a country clergyman, not far from one 
of the large American cities, who, having united a 
couple in marriage, some quarter of a century ago, 
was privately enquired of by the well-to-do bride- 
groom, shortly after the completion of the ceremony, 



8 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

as to the amount due for that performance. ""Well," 
answered the clergyman, " I have no fixed price for 
such services. People generally pay me according 
to their means and what they think that they can 
afford. Sometimes I get as high as fifty dollars '. 
twenty dollars ; ten ; five ; and one man, not long 
ago, paid me — ha! ha! — only think of it! — only 
twenty-five cents !" " Humph ! twenty-five cents ! 
well, that was reasonable enough !" replied the new- 
made bridegroom, extracting a quarter from his 
pocket and handing it over to the astounded official, 
who had thus given one peep too many into the 
" extreme economy " of paying for wedding cere- 
monials ! 

The application of which is to say that visits to 
Europe may be made by Americans, a little on the 
principle of the Cincinnatian who burned his lamps 
all day because " lard oil was cheaper than daylight " 
— that they may go, if they will, quite as cheaply as 
they can remain at home, possibly a little cheaper. 
This, however, might be like the twenty-five cents of 
the penurious bridegroom, and would involve the 
steerage of the ships, the third-class cattle-pens of 
the European railways, and lodging somewhere in 
the back-slums of any cities visited. 

Still, even in the steerage, on some of the best- 
appointed lines (about which something definite in 
due place) passages may be made with much less 
discomfort than most stay-at-home people suppose ; 
and it is not at all certain that thousands of hardy 
persons, limited in means, who spend the requisite 
amounts of time and money on very questionable 



COST OF TRIPS. 9 

home-amusements approaching to vices, might not 
do well to tempt a little rugged life in the forward 
parts of the ships that carry over their wealthy 
brothers in the saloon-cabins. For on those best 
lines the discomforts, inconveniences and unhealthi- 
nesses of steerage-passage have all been materially 
ameliorated within the past three or four years : the 
sleeping accommodations on many of them are en- 
durable if no more ; the food is almost always plen- 
tiful and generally excellent ; the amount of amuse- 
ment enjoyed is always greater than that attainable 
by the " stiffer " people at the stern ; and the safety 
to person is necessarily the same except under cir- 
cumstances of gross carelessness. 

Let us see, for the benefit of those very limited in 
means and still desirous to see a little fragment of 
the Old World — what would be the absolute cost of 
doing what emigrants of both sexes and all countries 
very often do for the sake of spending a few days 
with friends in the places of nativity. Say that six 
weeks' time is attainable, and let the cost of that six 
weeks be measured in current greenbacks. 

Steerage passage to Liverpool, $30 — return $35 : 
total, $65. Time not on board ship, about three 
weeks ; board, for that time, average of $10 per 
week, $30. Expenses of sight-seeing about Liver- 
X^ool, London and some neighboring towns, during 
that period, $10. Occasional necessary conveyance, 
the feet being principally trusted to, $25. Inciden- 
tal expenses, liberally calculated, $20. Total, $150, 
greenbacks! $20 more would enable the cheap- 
tourist to land in Ireland on the way, see Dublin, 



10 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Cork, Blarney Castle and the Lakes of Killarney ; 
and $30 added to that would supply a run up to 
Scotland, a view of Edinburgh, Glasgow, the Scottish 
Lakes and Highlands. Grand total, $200, green- 
backs ; with a certainty that any economical person, 
in good health and temper, could reduce that sum 
by at least $25, or to $175. Another $30 added to 
the grand total, or from $205 to $230, would afford 
a run across the British Channel, to Paris, with three 
or four days' sights of that most enchanting of cities. 
How many comparatively-poor men are there, with 
longing and hopeless desires after seeing other 
countries than their own, who never make any calcu- 
lation or effort to such an end, and yet who could 
and would compass it if they fairly understood the 
comparative trifle for which so much might be 
enjoyed ! 

One of the greatest of American travelers, Mr. 
Bayard Taylor, made his first European excursion 
under circumstances quite as illiberal as anything 
here indicated — "did" Great Britain and a very 
considerable portion of the continent on foot, except 
with rare instances of riding, and remained not less 
than six or seven months, his whole expenditure 
being only about $500, and the fortunate result of 
his travel that successful volume " Views-A-foot ; or. 
Europe Seen with Knapsack and Staff." And it is 
very doubtful whether in any portion of his later 
experience, in all descriptions of traveling "state" 
up to that of Secretary of Legation at St. Peters- 
burg, he has ever enjoyed his wanderings better 
than when making that first essay as a poor boy 



COST OF TRIPS. 11 

But the figures already given represent, of course, 
the minimum possibility of travel in the most-easily- 
attainable European countries, compatible with even 
the decencies of life, without too many of its com- 
forts ; and it is, equally of course, with that class of 
people standing midway between the possible steer- 
age-passenger and the traveler en prince, that we have 
next and principally to do. The most important 
question of this paper is — What need be the expenses, 
for a certain round, of a traveler going first-class and 
demanding all the comforts, and yet indisposed to ivaste 
money on costly luxuries ? 

To answer that question, then, as intelligibly as 
may be consistent with brevity. 

For six to seven weeks' absence from home, visiting 
portions of England, Ireland, Scotland and France, 
only. 

Ticket to Liverpool and return, $180 to $300 (gold) 
— say an average of $225, for which all necessary 
comfort and quite sufficient " style " can be secured. 
Average board of the three weeks off-ship, $15 to $20 
per week — say $60. Traveling expenses, railway and 
carriage fares, etc., $150. Maps, pictures, curiosities, 
books, etc. (not all necessary, but inevitable), $50. 
Incidental expenses, for which no name can be given ; 
money to guides, beggars, stewards and servants ; 
money lost and wasted, with an occasional indulgence 
in a luxury, not including costly wines or " society," 
gambling or other vices — $50. Total, $535 gold ; or, 
with gold at 140, about $750 currency. $75 gold or 
$105 currency may easily be saved from this, by a 
very careful person, leaving the expenditure $460 



12 SHORT-TRIP GVIDK 

gold or $645 currency. For this, necessarily brief 
but quite satisfactory acquaintance may be made, in 
succession, with Cork, the Lakes of Killarney, and 
Dublin, in Ireland ; Liverpool, Chester, London (with 
its surroundings), in England ; Dieppe, Eouen and 
Paris (with its surroundings), in France ; Edinburgh, 
Glasgow and the Perthshire Highlands, in Scotland. 

For ten weeks' absence, an estimate of $200 gold 
additional may safely be made, bringing the total 
outlay up to say $735 gold or $1000 currency ; and 
this will secure, in addition to the round already 
named, the Cumberland Lakes and Shakspeare 
Neighborhood of England, with Birmingham, Man- 
chester and York ; a more extended examination of 
both London and Paris ; a rapid run through the 
more frequented parts of Switzerland, and so far into 
Germany as Baden-Baden and the Black Forest. 

For three months' (thirteen or fourteen weeks) 
absence, another $200 gold may be added, bringing 
the amount up to say $935, or $1275 currency ; and 
with this all the foregoing may be done, with the 
addition of some of the principal German cities ; the 
Rhine ; Holland and Belgium ; the more laborious 
passes of Switzerland ; one or two of the French and 
English Channel watering-places ; the Scottish "West- 
em Highlands ; and the Giant's Causeway, Belfast 
and some of the other towns in the North of Ireland. 

Four months will add to this another $200 or 
possibly $250 gold, making the total say $1170, or 
$1600 to $1650 currency ; and with this expenditure 
to all the foregoing may be added a run across the 
Alps to the Italian Lakes, Turin, Florence, Rome and 



COST OF TRIPS. 13 

Venice, with return by Marseilles and the South of 
France and a consequent glimpse of the Mediter- 
ranean. 

At this point the phrase " short trip " may be said 
to be exhausted ; for only people of liberal means 
and abundant leisure are likely to go far beyond in 
any one visit abroad, and to them these calculations 
possess no interest whatever. Added to what has 
been already named, Spain and Portugal in one 
direction ; Eastern Germany and Austria in another ; 
Greece, Turkey and the Asiatic and African East in 
another ; and Sweden, Norway, Russia, etc., in yet 
another — constitute tours not often entered upon by 
those who have no special interest calling them there, 
and who have yet occasion to count time and money 
before starting. 

The foregoing figures are certainly not startling, 
and yet they have been all liberally as well as care- 
fully made, and all of them verified by reliable expe- 
rience. Twice as much can be thrown aivay, on either 
route ; and a considerable amount above the estimate 
may he frittered away, if due diligence is not observed ; 
but there is no occasion whatever of going beyond 
the computation, if gross negligences do not allow, 
or costly luxuries or yet more costly vices do not 
induce, the additional expenditure. 

Common sense, without even the aid of experience, 
will indicate that there are always possibilities of 
sickness, accident, or some other cause of detention, 
levying extraordinary expense — and that, therefore, 
it is always best to have a little " margin " of money 
in pocket or within reach ; but the chances of either 



14 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. . 

are scarcely one in an hundred, and on most of the 
routes specified careful men can save enough from 
the figures given, to supply themselves with even that 
"margin," while there is always the option, in the 
event of unforeseen embarrassment, of shortening the 
trip contemplated and hoping for "better luck next 
time." 



II. 

TIME NECESSARY ON ORDINARY EUROPEAN ROUTES. 

A considekable portion of what might have been 
said in this paper, has found place in the one preced- 
ing — as in that the round that may be safely attempted 
within each of certain given periods, has been inci- 
dentally mentioned. 

But there is room and even necessity for something 
more, if this little volume is to be made to fulfil its 
full purpose. For it is especially designed for Amer- 
icans ; and Americans sometimes need to be reminded 
of their own characteristics, quite as much as others 
to be informed of them. 

There are two misunderstandings, on this question 
of Time, both of which need to be corrected. The 
first is an impression that everything can be done 
within a limited space, and the other that nothing ! 
Americans generally fall into the first error ; those 
who attempt to guide without understanding them, 
tumble into the second. Not even the most incarnate 
American can rival Puck and "put a girdle" (even 
one of travel) " round the earth in forty minutes ;" 
and yet he certainly can go farther and faster with a 
fair appreciation of what he sees and hears, than any 
other created being. 

The Money obstacle, which keeps at home so many 
of those who desire to travel and who would travel 



16 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

but for its existence, has already been alluded to. 
The obstacle of Time is only secondary in importance 
and scarcely secondary in its effects. 

" Oh, there is no use of my going to Europe, with 
only such a little time at my disposal !" almost pet- 
tishly says the prospective possessor of two or three 
months of leisure. " Think that I am going to cross 
the Atlantic, without being able to see the whole of 
it when I do ! No — wait !" 

He does " wait," and one of two things is the result. 
Either he defers going, until growing entanglements 
make it impossible, or he rushes over, at last, under 
the impression that he must repay himself for waiting 
by going over the whole continent, with all its islands, 
in the one visit and at railway speed — the last result 
being that he " conglomerates " everything, even if he 
sees it, and brings away a dim doubt whether St. 
Peter's is not on the top of Jura and the great clock 
of Strasbourg" stowed away somewhere in Westmin- 
ster Abbey or the Madeleine. 

Meanwhile the European, or the man of any other 
country whatever than America, scoffs and sneers at 
the idea that he can see anything whatever without 
staying a month in each particular place, and the 
American obtains a reputation for " rushing too fast " 
when he is really behaving very sensibly in that 
regard. It is for the purpose of getting at the truth 
and the " golden mean " in this special particular, 
that the present paper is written — for the purpose of 
inducing less of that fatal "waiting," less of that 
crowding too many countries together and exhausting 
energy in seeing things that are really of no conse- 



TIME OF TRIPS. 17 

quence when others of the kind have been sufficiently 
seen and studied. 

Assuming the fact that the cause of intelligent 
travel would be materially subserved by people going 
over oftener, for special routes and without the weak 
variety of "the gvand tour or nothing!"- — assuming 
this, which is a fact appealing to health, intelligence 
and common-sense, just as does the propriety of 
spending one day in every week on the sea-shore at 
enervating midsummer, instead of working every day 
for the three hot months in order to find time for 
two weeks there at the end — What are the spaces of 
time really needed by Americans for certain special 
objects of travel ? 

Let us dissect some of the routes already named, 
as the most intelligible mode of arriving at the time 
which they really need occupy, to a quick-witted 
and intelligent traveler. 

For the trip of six to seven weeks ($535 gold — 
$750 currency). Time consumed on ship, going and 
returning, three weeks, leaving three to four weeks 
ashore. At and about Cork, 1 day. Cork to Lakes 
of Killarney, and at Lakes, 2 days. Killarney to 
Dublin and at Dublin, 2 days. Dublin to Liverpool, 
J day. Liverpool and Chester, 2 days. Liverpool 
to London, \ day. London and suburbs, 6 days. 
London to Paris, with stop at Rouen, 1 day. Paris 
and suburbs, 5 days. Paris back to London and on 
to Edinburgh, by York, with lay over of one train 
j there, 2 days. Edinburgh and suburbs, 1J days. 
Glasgow and going there, 1J days. From Glasgow 
through Perthshire Highlands to Stirling, 1 day. 



18 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. . 

Stirling to Burns country of Ayrshire, and stop there, 

1 day. To Liverpool and return-ship, \ day. Total, 
27| days — four weeks ; some abridgement of time 
in London or Paris, or the dropping off of some 
minor excursions being necessary, if the return home 
within six weeks is peremptory, while within the 
seven all can be accomplished without difficulty or 
unpleasant hurry. 

(Parenthetically, English rural scenery, among the 
most beautiful on the globe, is also the least varied, 
so that one excursion through it affords, with rare 
exceptions, a type of all, and neither time or money 
need be expended in dull' repetitions. To some 
extent, the same remarks will apply to old churches 
and old buildings, when there is no historical interest 
involved : after seeing the most magnificent or the 
most noted, the remainder are, to a man without full 
leisure, rather dull than the reverse. ) 

For the ten weeks' trip, take same figures, 28 days 
ashore, and add to them as follows : From Liverpool 
to the Cumberland Lakes and return, with time there, 

2 days. Liverpool to Birmingham and through the 
Shakspeare neighborhood of "Warwickshire, taking 
the London line at Rugby, 3 days. Paris to Geneva, 
Berne, Interlaken, Strasbourg and Baden-Baden, and 
back to Paris, 12 days. Additional time at London 
and Paris, each 2 days, 4 days. Total on shore, 49 
days, or seven weeks. 

For the three months' trip (13 to 14 weeks), a 
different arrangement of time is advisable, as follows : 
Cork, 1 day. To and at Killarney, 3 days. To 
Dublin and there, 2 days. Dublin to the Giant's 



TIME OF TRIPS. 19 

Causeway and across to Belfast, 4 days. Belfast to 
Greenock and Glasgow, 1 day. Glasgow, 1 day. 
From Glasgow, through the Highlands and by Stir- 
ling to Edinburgh, 3 days. Edinburgh, 2 days. 
Edinburgh to Ayrshire and stop there, 1| days. To 
the Cumberland Lakes, \ day. At Cumberland 
Lakes, 2 days. To Liverpool, \ day. At Liverpool, 
Chester, &c, 2 days. To Birmingham, Coventry, 
Stratford-on-Avon, Warwick, &c, 3 days. To Lon- 
don, 1 day. At London, 6 days. Brighton and 
Margate, 2 days. To Paris, by Kouen, \\ days. 
Paris, 6 days. Paris to Geneva (with excursion to 
Chamouni), Berne, Interlaken, Lucerne (the Bhigi), 
Bale, Strasbourg and Baden-Baden, 14 days. Baden- 
Baden, down the Rhine, and across Germany, Hol- 
land and Belgium, returning to England at most 
convenient point, 8 days. To Liverpool, 1 day. 
Total, 65J days — nine weeks and a fraction. 

For the yet-more-extended trip of four months, all 
the last preceding figures may be used, with the 
option of employing the remaining 25 to 30 days in 
either of the following modes : 

Cross the Alps into Italy, by either the St. Gothard, 
St. Bernard or Mt. Cenis passes, see Lakes Como, 
Garda, Maggiore, etc., and so many of 'the cities of 
Turin, Milan, Florence, Borne, Naples, Venice, etc., 
as may be attainable within the remaining limit of 
time and expense (the 30 days and about $200 gold), 
recrossing the Alps to Switzerland by one of the 
other passes, and thence pursuing the route last- 
named, through the remainder of Switzerland, Ger- 
many, etc. ; or — 



20 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Abandoning, for this tour, Germany and all beyond 
that point of Switzerland reached at the time of 
crossing the Alps, expend the whole remaining, say 
40 days and $275 to $300 gold, in visiting more of 
the Italian cities, the Bay of Naples, Vesuvius, etc., 
and " doing " Rome more thoroughly, taking steamer 
on the Mediterranean at some one of the Italian 
ports for Marseilles, catching a glimpse of Spain and 
seeing the southwest of France, crossing nearly the 
whole length of that empire in running back to Paris 
and a Channel port for the return to England ; or — 

Pursuing generally the course last marked out, 
abandon, again, something of the Italian opportunity, 
and substitute one or two of the towns and a por- 
tion of the Mediterranean coast of Spain, still making 
Marseilles the objective point, and crossing France 
to Paris and the Channel, as before. 

There are, of course, many other options, as well 
as many other comparatively-brief routes, than those 
which have now been hurriedly discussed — especially 
one which should branch off into Eastern Germany 
and Austria, leaving out Italy and the south alto- 
gether ; but it is believed that these include the 
probable preferences of most Americans, and it is 
beyond question that this understanding and allot- 
ment of time and expense will be found, in the main, 
correct, practical and worthy of study. 

And now one or two particulars, with reference to 
the employment of time, in response to certain ques- 
tions ahnost sure to be asked by any foreigner read- 
ing the preceding, and quite likely to be put even by 
Americans : 



TIME OF TRIPS. 21 

" Such brief spaces have been named for some of the 
most important and interesting places on the globe : how 
is it p)ossible, for instance, to see anything of either Lon- 
don or Paris in the six to eight days allotted to each ?" 

To wliicli tlie answer is : 

First : there are in both cities certain prominent 
objects, which all need to visit, and beyond which 
only persons of leisure care to go. In and about 
London, the Tower ; Westminster Abbey ; St. Paul's ; 
the Houses of Parliament ; Windsor Castle and Park ; 
Buckingham and the other royal palaces ; the British 
and South Kensington Museums ; the Crystal Palace ; 
Hyde and the other London parks ; Richmond Hill ; 
Kew Gardens, etc., the most interesting objects being 
all really named. In and about Paris, the Boule- 
vards ; the Seine, its quays and bridges ; the Louvre ; 
the Tuileries ; Notre Dame, the Madeleine and other 
great churches ; the Tuileries Gardens, Place de la 
Concorde, and Champs Elysees ; the Arc d'Etoile and 
other great monuments ; the Bois de Boulogne ; the 
Bourse ; Pere la Chaise ; Versailles and Sevres ; the 
Hotel ; des Invalides ; the Cathedral Church of St. 
Denis ; some of the concert-gardens, cafes, etc., the 
leading objects being again named. 

Now, to get to one-half of these, on foot or with 
any arrangement existing in an American city, would 
be simply impossible, at any moderate outlay. But 
both London and Paris have cab systems worthy the 
admiration of the world, and it is in the use of them 
that sight-seeing becomes so easy, cheap and rapid. 

Take London, then, the cabs understood, and 
another fact also understood — that not all the time 



22 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

desirable is to be used, but enough for very intelligent 
views. For Westminster Abbey, St. Paul's and the 
Houses of Parliament, 1J days. For the Tower, J 
day. Crystal Palace, 1 day. Windsor Castle and 
Park, J day. Richmond, Kew, Hampton Court, etc., 
1 day. British Museum and Guildhall (with the 
Temple), 1 day. Through London Parks and streets, 
with the Royal Palaces (outside views), the Horse- 
Guards, Mansion House, Bank of England, Monu- 
ments, &c, 1 to 2| days. Total, 6| to 8 days, the 
theatres being visited in the intervening nights by 
those who choose, and a much better general idea of 
London being thus acquired by an active and intelli- 
gent traveler, than many obtain in months of resi- 
dence. 

Take Paris (not in an "Exposition" year). For 
Versailles and Sevres, with glimpse of St. Cloud and 
ride through the whole length of the Bois de Bou- 
logne, 1 day. For Pere la Chaise (cemetery), \ day. 
For St. Denis, \ day. For the great churches, the 
Pantheon, Notre Dame, St. Roch, the Madeleine, St. 
Eustache, St. Etienne du Mont, &c, 1 day. For the 
Tuileries Gardens, Champs Elysees, along the Seine, 
the bridges, &c, 1 day. For inside the Louvre, with 
glimpses of that and the other palaces, outside, 1 clay. 
For the Hotel des Invalides, the Champ de Mars, &c, 
i day. For the Hotel de Ville, Place de Greve, 
Palais Royal, Hotel Cluny, etc. — any or all of them — 
1 to 3 days, at will. Total, 6| to 8 days. The Bou- 
levards will necessarily be seen in passing along them 
on special visits ; and so of the great monuments, 
the Arc d'Etoile, Arc du Carrousel, Colonne de Ven- 



TIME OF TRIPS. 23 

dome, Colonne de Juillet, &c. ; while the theatres 
and the concert gardens (Mabille, &c.,) naturally fill 
the evenings. 

Such a distribution of time would inevitably appal 
the slow and steady Englishman ; but not so with 
the vivacious, quick-moving and quick-seeing Ameri- 
can ; and nothing more than these two extreme 
instances can be necessary, it is believed, to demon- 
strate that the " short-trip " ( plan and division of time 
are not only practicable but reasonable, however 
much even the most hurried might prefer to have 
unlimited time and money at command I 



III. 



STEAMSHIP LINES TO EUEOPE, WITH A HINT FOE 
"'EOUND THE WOELD." 

Most persons, not taking especial thought on the 
subject, fail to recognize the immense proportions to 
which the steam navy, carrying passengers between 
the port of New York and four ports of the Old 
World (Liverpool, Glasgow, Havre and Bremen) has 
reached ; and partially to afford a glance at its pro- 
portions, as also to remind tourists what facilities 
for choice are placed at their disposal, a brief glance 
is here taken at the most reliable lines, their ships, 
performances, and the advantages they offer. 

LINES TO QUEElSTSTOWlSr AND LIVERPOOL. 

Cunard Line. (British and North American Royal 
Mail Steamship Company.) ■ 

This line, which may be said to stand among the 
first of its class in any service in the world, and 
which makes the proud boast that it has never lost a 
passenger by any accident since the day of its estab- 
lishment, besides having carried the mails with a 
speed and regularity almost wonderful as the result 
of human skill and forethought — this line has now 
employed, in the service between New York and 
Liverpool, no less than twenty ships — seven mail 
steamers, carrying only first-class passengers — the 



STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 25 

Scotia and Persia (paddle- wheelers), the Russia, 
Cuba, Java, China and Australasian, screws; be- 
sides the Siberia, Malta, Hecla, Palmyra, Tarifa, 
Marathon, Kedar, Qlympus, Tripoli, Aleppo, Mo- 
rocco and Sidon, extra steamers, carrying first and 
third class. The average time of the runs of the 
mail steamers from Queenstown to "New York, dur- 
ing: 1867, was lOd. 5h. 40m.; from New York to 
Liverpool, including detentions at Queenstown, lOd. 
5h. 11m. The two most rapid runs of the year were 
those of the Scotia to Queenstown in 8d. 9h. 26m., 
and of the Russia to New York in 8d. lOh. 34m. The 
Commodore of this line is the veteran Captain Jud- 
kins, of the Scotia ; and its notabilities are good fare, 
fine accommodations, sharp discipline, and reliability 
as to performance. 

Inman Line. (Liverpool, New York and Philadel- 
phia Steamship Company.) 

This line comes second in order of establishment, 
and only second in the number of ships employed. 
It is claimed to have done more to "bridge the 
Atlantic," by good accommodations at moderate 
prices, than any other line on the ocean ; and it has 
lately so shown the justice of that demand on the 
British Government, as to have been accorded a di- 
vision of the mail service, besides that exclusively 
to Halifax. It also deserves the credit of having 
seen and depended upon the merit of the screw-prin- 
ciple, at an earlier clay than any other ; and its voy- 
ages have been remarkably successful and safe. Its 
fleet of steamers now comprise the splendid mail- 



26 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

boats (City of) Paris, Antwerp, London, Boston and 
Baltimore (also the Brooklyn nearly finished), with 
the New York, Washington, Manchester, Limerick, 
Cork, Kangaroo, and several others, on the Halifax 
branch, running to Liverpool as extra steamers, or 
held in reserve. The Commodore is Captain James 
Kennedy, of the City of Paris, whose average of 
passages, from April to August, 1867, between New 
York and Queenstown, was 9d. 5h. 3m., while the 
Antwerp, London, Boston and Baltimore followed 
close, and the City of Paris made the extraordinary 
run, in November, of 8d. 4h. 37m., the shortest west- 
ward on record. Officers courteous — fare good — 
ships and line excellent. 

National Line. {National Steam Navigation Com- 
pany.) 

This line comes third in order of establishment, 
and has risen to assured and worthy success on the 
specialties of large and roomy ships, good fare, good 
accommodations at exceedingly low prices, and gen- 
eral courtesy. It has now in employment the fine 
steamers France, England, Denmark, Helvetia, Penn- 
sylvania, Erin, Virginia, and others, receiving a con- 
stantly increasing share of the large transit between 
the two countries, and entitled to the credit of hav- 
ing gone a step beyond the Inman line in demonstra- 
ting the practicability of cheap carriage without the 
sacrifice of either comfort or safety. The Commo- 
dore of this line is Captain Grace, of the France, the 
latest-built of the fleet, and which vessel has already 
demonstrated her capacity to compete with the best 



STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 27 

of the mail-steamers, while the sea-going qualities 
of all the vessels have been proved to admiration. 
All the saloons on deck form a pleasing specialty of 
this line, as well as abundance of room in state-rooms 
and saloons. 

Williams and Guion Line. {Liverpool and Great 
Western Steam Company.) 

This is the youngest of the great lines to Liver- 
pool, but is rapidly becoming one of the most popu- 
lar. Its specialties are ships of immense size, splen- 
did model and great strength, built on the Tyne 
(instead of on the Clyde, as most of the other lines), 
adopting the brig-rig entirely, offering the great- 
est possible amount of room per passenger, with 
state-rooms and saloons all on deck (as half-an-hour's 
inspection of the so-far latest-finished, the magnifi- 
cent Colorado, will abundantly show), and supply- 
ing, like the National, excellent transit at very low 
rates. The ships now in service are the Colorado, 
Nebraska, Manhattan and Minnesota, all of about 
3,000 tons, while the Nevada and Idaho are being 
rapidly finished and will have place on the line dar- 
ing the summer. The Commodore is Captain Cut- 
ting, of the Colorado, who only heads his brother 
captains and the other officers of the line in u taking 
care of his passengers," and showing the true cour- 
tesy of sea-going. 



28 SHORT-TBIP GUIDE. 

LINE TO LONDONDERRY AND GLASGOW. 

Anchor Line. (Henderson Brothers, Glasgow.) 

From comparatively small beginnings this line has 
been for years increasing in the number and size of 
its ships, in efficiency of management, arrangements 
for the comfort and jjleasure of passengers, and con- 
sequently in popularity. The vessels now employed 
are the splendid new vessels, the Europa, Columbia 
and Hibernia, in all of which the science of pleasing 
passengers seems to be carried to full perfection, even 
to the extent of supplying them with pianos, — and 
the Caledonia, Iowa, Britannia, United Kingdom and 
Cambria, with all the other comforts, and soon to 
have that exceptional one. The courtesy of the offi- 
cers of this line is proverbial ; and as the ships make 
the "North About," avoiding the British Channel, 
securing the most splendid of approaches to land, 
and booking passengers to Liverpool at the same 
price as to Glasgow, it is not strange that hundreds 
of those who wish to include Scotland in their tours 
are bending in that direction. It should be noted, 
in addition, that the same company run steamers 
from Glasgow to Lisbon, Gibraltar, Malta, the Ital- 
ian ports and Alexandria, making a convenient con- 
nection in that direction. 

LINE TO BREST AND HAVRE. 

French Line. (Compagnie Generate Transatlan- 

tique.) 

The withdrawal of the American line to Brest 
and Havre (the Fulton, Arago, etc.), while painfully 



STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. £9 

impressing Americans, still leaves the consciousness 
that what remains is the very best. No line, in the 
same length of time, ever made such a reputation as 
the ships of the General Transatlantic Company, for 
safety, speed and elegance, and it may be said that 
none carries so many first-class passengers per ship. 
The vessels now employed are the Pereire, Yille de 
Paris, St. Laurent, Europe, Napoleon III., Lafayette, 
Washington and Europe. The ships seem to be built 
and run " regardless of expense " and with French 
fare and courtesy. The Pereire, during 1867, made 
five passages between New York and Brest, averag- 
ing 8d. 20h., and the Yille de Paris and St. Laurent 
averaging 9d. llh. — among the best performances 
known to ocean service ; and there is no doubt that 
'68 will see the equal of '67, in speed, comfort and 
popularity. 

LINE TO SOUTHAMPTON AND BREMEN. 

Bremen Line. {Worth German Lloyd.) 

This line, always the most popular of those be- 
tween Germany and America, is making rapid strides 
towards engrossing the whole transit — through the 
number, speed and excellence of their ships, and their 
general management. The vessels now employed 
are the large and powerful America, New York, 
Hermann, Hansa, Bremen, Deutschland, Union and 
Weser ; while no less than three others, the Rhein, 
Main and Donau, are nearly completed. They have 
also a line, just established but promising to be very 
popular, between Bremen and Baltimore. With a 
brief average, there have been some remarkably short 



3Q SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

passages during the year — as that of the Union, 
eastward, in 9d. 10h., and the Weser, westward, in 
9d. 3h. For passengers desiring to go direct to 
Southampton and London, they offer the very first 
attractions, combined with fine fare and most courte- 
ous treatment ; and their growing popularity is no 
matter of wonder. 



FOE CALIFORNIA, CHINA, INDIA, AND " 7 EOUND THE 
WOELD. 1 



?3 



A few hints have been promised, for that " 'round 
the world " which used to be a wonder, will one day 
be a common thing to do, and even now is entirely 
and easily practicable ; and these hints are offered for 
the consideration of tourists who may be induced to 
<; broaden their views " when they are reminded how 
much of the world they may manage to see in a 
brief space, if they will but set about it. 

It is known to perhaps a majority of persons, 
that the Pacific Mail Steamship Company run a noble 
fleet of first-class steamers on the Atlantic end of 
their line (the Arizona, Henry Chauncey, Ocean 
Queen, Northern Light, Ariel and Alaska), to Aspin- 
wall, their passengers crossing by the Panama Rail- 
way to Panama ; and that from Panama a second 
fleet (the Colorado, Constitution, Golden City, Sa- 
cramento, Golden Age, St. Louis and Montana) 
carry them up the western coast and land them, 
generally with the very best opinion of sea-going 
and the company supplying the transit, at San 
Francisco, in about 22 days. And a proportion of 
the public, at least, are aware of the great enterprise 



STEAMSHIPS TO EUROPE, ETC. 31 

recently inaugurated — that with those steamers, at 
San Francisco, connect yet another fleet, scarcely 
less in number (the New York, Costa Rica, America, 
Celestial Empire, Great Republic and Japan), land- 
ing passengers at Yokohama, Japan, in about 26 
days from San Francisco, or 48 from New York, — 
and at Hong Kong, China, in about 32, or 54 from 
New York. 

So much as this is pretty generally understood ; 
but it is an interesting question how many persons 
of means and the desire to travel, remember the 
connections with this great line and the European 
steamers already named, that may so easily be made, 
and that coveted " 'round the world" accomplished 
within four to five months, or even in a less period if 
connections happen to be hit throughout ! Say from 
New York, by San Francisco to Hong Kong, as al- 
ready noted. From Hong Kong by the British 
Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, to 
Point de Galle, Ceylon (where there is also an Aus- 
tralian connection made, for those who desire it). 
Point de Galle to Bombay, with an opportunity for a 
brief glance at British East India, as there has be- 
fore been at Japan and China. Then by the P. & 
O. steamer again, to and up the Red Sea, to Suez, 
with railway transit across Egypt to Cairo and 
Alexandria. Thence by the connecting P. & O. 
steamers from Alexandria to Marseilles (by Malta) ; 
across France to the Channel, and homeward to New 
York from Havre, Liverpool, Southampton or Glas- 
gow, by some one of the European lines already 
named. 



32 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

The contemplation is almost enough to take away 
the breath ; but nothing in travel has ever equalled 
that or the splendid reality; and how long before, 
without waiting for the Pacific Railway (which the 
Union Pacific people are hurrying through so rapid- 
ly) — how long before the hint is taken and acted 
upon by hundreds who can well afford the time (the 
four months) and the money (not over ($900 to 
$1,000 gold), and who waste both in summer daw- 
dling at home ? For it should be remembered that 
the route may be precisely reversed, by those who 
prefer first seeing Europe — and that while life is 
short, health transitory, and opportunities often pass 
away unexpectedly, no such chance for "rounding 
the circle of the globe," with little bodily fatigue, al- 
most no danger, and the retention of luxury through- 
out, has ever before entered into the calculation of 
man. 



rv. 

PKEPARATIONS FOR " GOING OVER." 

There may need to be another reminder that the 
following paper, like some of the others to come af- 
ter it, is especially intended for those who have never 
before crossed the Atlantic, and that, consequently, 
some of the advice tendered in it may seem very "A. 
B. C-ish" to those who have already taken their degree, 
however low a one, in the academy of travelling ex- 
perience. To this the suggestion may properly be 
added, that even some of those who have taken that 
degree may find themselves none the worse for read- 
ing over these hints, even if they do so to dissent 
from them. An apology may need to be made, too, 
for the direct and conversational style adopted in 
this and some other papers ; the aim of the author is, 
in this regard, to come as near as possible to the 
words and manner that would be used in a personal 
conversation, with one of the parties doing much 
more than half of the talking. 

One word as to the mode in which whatever of 
" wisdom" may be here contained — has been acquired. 
Or let the words be two, and embody them, after the 
mode of a late lamented dignitary, in a "little story." 
Once upon a time, when the Shrewsbury river, in New 
Jersey, was more of a throughfare for passenger- 
steamboats than it is to-day, a "hard case" of a 



M SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

river boatman made application to the head of one 
of the companies for the command of a new boat 
just launched and about to be put into service. 
"Why, good heavens!'' exclaimed the owner, throw- 
ing up eyes and hands in astonishment, " what rea- 
son can you possibly give for thinking that I would 
trust you with a boat ? Every one who knows you 
knows that you have been ashore on every shoal and 
mud-bank in the river, even when piloting for 
others." " Precisely the reason why I am the man to 
take command of the new boat!" replied the incor- 
rigible. "I have been ashore, I believe, on every 
shoal and mud-bank in the river ; consequence, I 
know where they all are, now, and you see I can keep 
clear of em." The application of which is, that the 
writer has " been ashore" on most of the " shoals and 
mud-banks" of rashness, ignorance and comparative 
poverty, in his experiments at foreign travel, and 
" knows where they are," now ! And if there are 
some upon which he has not been ashore, he has seen 
others stranded on them and laid up the experience 
for himself and others. 

1st. Decide whether you can afford time and money 
to go at all, taking into consideration the before- 
urged opportunities for economy. Also, decide 
whether, in going, you leave too much of anxiety, 
personal or pecuniary, for fair enjoyment ; for there 
is an old adage about the absentee who " drags with 
each remove a lengthening chain,'' and there are 
not charms enough, even in the natural scenery and 
artistic glories of the Old World, to make such a trip 
"pay" when the heart or the business-powers must 



PREPARATIONS. 35 

be left at home. So much decided, and in the affirma- 
tive, then 

2nd. Having made up your mind, stick to the reso- 
lution. Arrange your time of going and make every- 
thing work to accommodate that, not leave that to 
accommodate itself to everything. Generally in this 
as in everything else in life, too long anticipation is 
not the healthiest or the most profitable, .and a voy- 
age not canvassed over for five years in advance is 
likely to yield more pleasure than one submitted to 
that length of speculation . Above all things, never 
boast that you are going, when you have merely 
thought of going and made no definite decision, as 
friends may remember the farce of " Ladies Beware !" 
and Mrs. Vavasour's saying : " Lady Ossulton has been 
talking of going to Italy ever since I can remember ; 
if she intends to go, why don't she go ?" And there 
is an instance on record of a young New Yorker of 
good family, who went to Europe under the influence 
of as much personal fear as he might have felt in go- 
ing to his execution — simply because, while trying to 
"screw his courage to the sticking-point," he had 
boasted of his intended trip until all his friends began 
to make it, and him, a by -word, and the lady to whom 
he was engaged finally declared that "if he didn't 
go and thus prove that he was not afraid to do so, 
she would never marry him until she was grayer 
than Methusaleh's grandmother !" Kumor said that 
he was on the point of being set ashore at Sandy 
Hook, or taken off by the pilot-boat, after proceeding 
down the bay, but that the fear of ridicule deterred 
him and he made a voyage of continued torture, 

4 



36 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE, 

simply because he had " declared his intentions" too 
widely. 

3d. Having resolved upon time of going and prob- 
able duration of trip, and selected the line of steam- 
ers by which the outward voyage is to bS made (a 
selection which may be a little aided by the perusal 
of another paper in this connection), do not permit 
the paltry folly of wishing to keep a certain number 
of dollars for a few days longer in pocket, to prevent 
the early taking of a passage. The best state-rooms 
on any favorite steamship are likely to be first taiien 
up ; and even in the event of any accident occurring, 
rendering an alteration of plans necessary, there is 
rarely any difficulty in disposing of a well-located 
berth, while most of the companies, at any time be- 
fore the " eleventh hour," will transfer the passenger 
from one steamer to a later one, if a change of time 
is all the deviation from the original plan rendered 
necessary. 

4th. If suddenly-occurring events happen to have 
changed the calculation in the other direction, and 
the plan of going is formed almost at the very 
moment when some favorite steamer is about to sail, 
never heed the stories so likely to be told, that " the 
steamer is full and you cannot get a place I" There 
is nearly always room for " one passenger more," as 
there is in an avenue-car, though without the dis- 
comfort ; and if the worst comes to the worst, it is a 
very rare case when some one of the officers of the ship 
cannot be found ready to give up his room for the 
run, at the inducement of no-very-large addition to 
the price of the passage-ticket. These are suggestions 



PREPARATIONS. 37 

for extreme cases, however : as before said, passage 
had much better be taken early, whenever possible ; 
though Mr. William J. Florence, the actor, who makes 
many and pleasant voyages across the Atlantic, has 
the reputation of never engaging a berth until the 
day of sailing, when he goes quietly on board, plumps 
down his big trunk, and calmly advises the officers of 
the ship that " he is going over, and the sooner they 
arrange to find him a comfortable room, the less 
trouble they will be likely to have !" a hint always 
acted upon at once. 

5th. In selecting berths, when a good opportunity 
for choice remains, always aim to get as near as pos- 
sible to the midships of the vessel — a consideration 
of not much consequence to old voyagers with strong 
nerves, but of great importance to landsmen, as every 
foot of distance from the waist increases the amount 
of motion in a heavy sea; and not only is the danger 
of sea-sickness less amidships, but the chances of 
having sleep broken by the " pitch" of a " head" or 
" following" sea are proportionably decreased when 
so located. The same principle applies, in a less de- 
gree, to the question of outside or inside rooms (those 
inside or outside of the gangways). There is much 
less effect from the "roll," in a "beam" sea, for those 
occupying inner berths; but there is always much 
less light for reading or any other purpose, and the 
one advantage will probably balance the other, except 
m winter passages, when the inner rooms are alto- 
gether preferable. 

6th. No guide-book, probably, ever contained a 
hint of the advice to be embodied in this paragraph ; 



38 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

and yet there is no word of advice, of the whole, 
more important. Unless that miserable being, a 
" man of letters," and thus compelled to be always 
reading — there are few intending voyagers, male or 
female, who will not be the better for a little ' ' read- 
ing up" as to the countries about to be visited. A 
fresh glance at the, atlas, to see how they he and the 
relations which they bear to each other, is almost in- 
dispensable, even to some of us who flatter ourselves 
(before we think the second time) that we learned 
our geography and have kept pretty well up with it 
ever since. And there is not one in fifty who would 
not be the better qualified for enjoyment abroad, by 
running over some comprehensive history of each of 
the principal countries. To freshen up in English, 
Scottish and Irish history, is almost indispensible on 
the eve of a trip merely to Great Britain ; and the 
same may be said, or very nearly, of French history, 
especially that of Napoleon and the Revolution, if 
the Channel is to be crossed for anything more than 
the merest glance. For England, too, a running 
over of Shakspeare is never out of place, whether 
for London or Warwickshire; while some knowledge 
of Scott's leading novels, the " Heart of Mid-Lothian," 
"Bride of Lammermoor," "Rob Roy," &c, of the 
"Lady of the Lake,'' and of Burns' simpler songs, 
makes half the charm of a run over the Border and 
through the Scottish Highlands ; and there is at 
least policy in knowing something of Lever's novels 
("Charles O'Malley" and " JackHinton'') of Moore's 
poems and some of the simpler legends and stories of 
the peasantry, before setting foot in Ireland. This 



PREPARATIONS. 39 

advice would not seem so far-fetched or of so little 
consequence, had all readers heard what the writer has 
done: people of wealth and supjDosed intelligence, on 
the point of airing their money and position by Eu- 
ropean tours, and asking friends, covertly, on the 
very verge of departure, to " tell them some of the 
most important things that had happened in England, 
France and a few of them countries" — or buttonho- 
ling chance-met acquaintances, in the stable yard of 
the Red Horse, at Stratford-on-Avon, to ask " who 
that Shakspeare was, that the people made so much 
fuss about ? — if he fit, or writ, which was it ?" 

7th. Avoid the nonsense which may be so easily 
put into the mind, of trying to learn any of the lan- 
guages of the non-English-speaking countries to be 
visited, in the brief space intervening between arrang- 
ment and departure. Those who have some acquaint- 
ance with French, German or Italian, as the case may 
be, will be all the better and none the worse for 
"rubbing up' 5 as much as possible, through reading, 
translation or conversation ; but for those who know 
nothing of the languages, to attempt mastering them, 
is simply nonsense. There are English-speaking peo- 
ple, now, almost everywhere on the Continent — Eng- 
lish servants, guides, couriers, etc., and often English- 
speaking landlords; and for those not linguists, the 
best plan is to arrange for joining company with those 
who do speak the languages of the countries about to 
be visited, or to depend upon chance-met speaking of 
English. There are a certain set of enquiries and an- 
swers, however, connected with buying tickets, taking 
trains, hiring cabs, finding lodgings, making small 



40 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

purchases, discovering directions, etc., which may be 
committed to memory without much trouble and 
without the miserable affectation of supposing that 
this is "learning a language;" and for the benefit of 
those who prepare themselves to that extent, a few 
of these phrases are set down, at the close of the 
present volume, with their meanings in English, 
and the instances in which they are likely to be found 
useful. 

8th. Another "rubbing up" is advisable though 
not absolutely indispensible. Thousands of questions 
about America, its physical appearance, wealth, work- 
ing of government, industrial aspects, etc., are con- 
stantly asked of Americans on their travels, supposed 
to be of the average intelligence, by foreigners whom 
they chance to meet; and it is decidedly pleasant as 
well as proper, not to be three or four thousand 
miles from home, unable to answer the simplest ques- 
tions with reference to things at our own doors at 
home. The more we know about our own land, the 
more intelligent and agreeable travellers we shall 
make, unavoidably; and in this connection, 

9th. Throw overboard two false impressions, to- 
gether, before embarking for Europe. Overboard 
with the idea, at once, that the land you are leaving 
is better than all others in every regard, so that no- 
thing can be learned abroad; and with it give the go- 
by to the alternative impression that we have nothing- 
worth asserting and even boasting about, and that 
what you are to learn abroad will stand in place of 
the previous experiences and prides of a life. Amer- 
ica has many things, to-day (and the last pages of 



PREPARATIONS. 41 

the present volume may be overhauled for reminders 
of some of them, ) unequalled by the world and matters 
of legitimate pride to her citizens ; then she has er- 
rors and deficiencies which may well be corrected by 
observations among older if not necessarily wiser 
people. Every American, going abroad, should carry 
with him all practical knowledge of his own land, 
and all well-founded pride in it ; and at the same 
time he should travel with eyes and ears open and 
power to divest himself of ridiculous national vain- 
glory prejudically shutting away all beyond. 

And now to a few minor particulars, belonging to 
the very eve -of starting, and still important enough 
to deserve place and number : 

10th. "Start with a confident expectation of return- 
ing, and yet leave property-interests disposed of as 
if no return was likely to be made. There is really 
less danger, in a given number of days, in going over- 
sea than from Chicago to Boston, or New Orleans to 
New York, by rail ; but European absences are gen- 
erally longer than those on the American Continent, 
except the latter involve California or the very far 
South-west, or North-west ; and if we are commonly 
neglectful, there is no reason why these instances 
should not be an exception. " No man dies the sooner 
for making his will," they say ; and certainly no man 
travels less comfortably for leaving affairs at home in 
such a shape, that if he does not return, his absence 
will cause the least possible inconvenience to those 
left behind. And in this connection, again, 

11th. There is nothing wiser for the departing 
" family man," whatever the status of those depend- 



42 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ertt upon him, than an investment in a moderate life- 
assurance, with an additional assurance against acci- 
dent. Nothing of an earthly character (the religious 
questions will naturally suggest themselves) adds 
more comfort in a storm at sea, or danger in some 
distant land, than the reflection that there would 
be at least one benefit from the risk terminating un- 
favorably : the dear ones at home ivould be pecuniarily 
the gainers by it. 

12th. Arrange baggage compactly, and not too ex- 
tensively. For each person (male — the ladies will make 
rules for themselves), one stout leather or wood-and- 
leather trunk of 30 to 36 inches by 16 to 20 inches, 
and one convenient valise for carrying in the hand, 
is always sufficient, for anything less than carrying 
over the whole personal effects with a view to resi- 
dence. The trunk for deposit in the great cities, in 
the event of expecting to return along the same line — 
if not, unavoidably to be carried along. The valise 
for short excursions from those great centres, having 
this advantage — that it can be carried in the railway- 
carriage or cab, (en voiture, as the French designate 
it), while the trunk must be looked after, with trouble 
and expense. Both trunk and valise should be plain- 
ly marked, with name and residence — initials not al- 
ways enough for either safety or convenience. If the 
trunk is small enough, for the sea-voyage, to find place 
in the state-room, all the better ; if not, care must 
be taken that before it goes into the hold all articles 
are taken out from it that will be needed before land- 
ing on the other side. The valise will always find 
place in the state-room, of course. And this brings 



PREPARATIONS. 43 

13th. Tlie important question of clothing, in which 
the liberty will be taken of quoting from a work by 
the same writer ("Over-Sea ") issued last year, a few 
bracketed words being added to the advice there em- 
bodied : 

" My point of view is for the male sex, but the fe- 
male will find it easily varied to their requirements. 
For crossing the North Atlantic, to return in [two or] 
three months, the first requirement is a suit of thick 
clothes, so old and valueless that one can lounge 
upon the deck in them, with no fear of damage. 
(Dandyism is at a discount, at sea — a lesson quickly 
and surely learned). Clothing thick, because sea air 
is nearly always damp, and generally cold. Then as 
thick an overcoat and gloves as can well be procured, 
the use of which will become patent, either among 
the fogs and possible icebergs of the Banks of New- 
foundland, or on the Irish coast. A thick blanket, 
or, what is still better, a rough buffalo-robe, to make 
lounging upon deck the easier and warmer. For 
even midsummer wear in England, Ireland and Scot- 
land, a neat travelling-suit of thick cloth [stout Mel- 
ton or cassimere, the best], which will scarcely ever 
be found too warm ; while in all these a light sum- 
mer overcoat [water-proof tweed, best], will be found 
a convenience, and often a necessity. For southward 
of the British Channel, a suit of dark summer-cloths 
or flannels, useful occasionally, but by no means to 
be depended upon, and never to be worn without 
heavy under-clothing. Heavy wool under-clothing 
at sea, with courage enough to double it if comfort 
so requires. A dress suit, if there is plenty of room 



44 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

in the trunk, not otherwise, as there is very seldom 
occasion for it on a tour of this character [and for 
full-dress occasions, purchase or hire is always avail- 
able in the large cities where such a demand is likely 
to arise]. Plenty of linen and white goods, to avoid 
being at the mercy of the washer-women at times of 
sudden transit,— though the fact may well be remem- 
bered, that all the latter description of goods can be 
laid in much cheaper at Liverpool, London, or even 
at Paris, than in America under the present regime. 
* * A low-crowned tourist hat, of felt ; and for Eng- 
land, (first of indispensibles), an umbrella." To this 
list add a good opera-glass, almost indispensible, 
both by sea and on land, for catching views rapidly 
and correctly. 

14th. Make such arrangements, if possible, that a 
little longer absence than that contemplated, will not 
work serious business or other inconvenience, as the 
best calculator cannot always be quite sure of non- 
detention through some influence or action beyond 
himself. 

15th. Arrange (as before suggested) to take a lit- 
tle more money abroad than is supposed to be neces- 
sary for either time or distance ; but 

16th. Carry in actual money, (English gold, by far 
the most convenient, except for going directly to 
France — then French gold,) only so much as will pay 
expenses on ship-board and last during the few days 
that may happen to elapse before reaching the point 
at which the first draft is made payable. All beyond 
this should be taken either in bills-of-exchange on 
bankers in one or more of the great cities to be vis- 



PREPARATIONS. 45 

ited, or in circular letters-of-credit to corresponding 
houses in those cities. Only the very first class of 
banking houses, at heme, should be dealt with, in 
procuring exchange or letters-of-credit, if the painful 
possibility of finding oneself abroad without funds, is 
to be avoided ; and all information as to details can 
be procured, as well as the funds, at any one of the 
houses whose announcements are to be found at the 
close of the present volume. 

17th. Procure passports, by making application 
to an authorized Notary or Dispatch Agent, at 
least a week or ten days before the time of departure. 
A separate passport is necessary for every adult male, 
and for every woman travelling femme sole : when 
husband, wife and minor children are travelling to- 
gether, a single one is sufficient for all. In Great 
Britain no passports are necessary, though, in the 
present troubled Fenian days, they may at any time 
be found convenient, and sometimes indispensible as 
means of identification ; in France, of late, they are 
seldom demanded, though the law requires them ; 
beyond France, it is never safe to be without them, 
in due form and properly vised ; and even in France, 
if not demanded, they have their use in securing 
certain privileges and furnishing some guarantee of 
identity. 

18th. Take some letters of introduction, when ten- 
dered, and to the right persons ; but depend very lit- 
tle upon them, except in some business point of view. 
If there is sufficient influence to procure letters to the 
American Secretaries of Legation at London, Paris, 
&c, they may often be found valuable, as those Sec- 



46 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

retaries generally do the wheel-horse work of the le- 
gations, and may pay an amount of attention b@- 
neath the time or state of the Ministers. 

19th. Create as little impression as possible, on the 
verge of departure, of feeling that some event, mov- 
ing half the world, is taking place in your first leaving 
your native land. A sea- voyage, now, no further than 
Europe, is about equivalent to a trip up the Sound to 
Boston, fifteen years ago, — and not much more than 
was the transit across Sandy Hook Bay at the dis- 
tance back of thirty or fifty years; and the observing 
world is generally coming to regard it in that light. 

20th and last. If possible, go on board before the 
last moment of sailing, and have any heavy baggage 
on board even earlier. Also, if possible, make any 
extended tender farewells earlier and elsewhere than 
on the crowded deck of a steamer, at the last mo- 
ment, when everybody is in the way of everybody 
else, when the officers naturally wish to throw over- 
board all the winners, and when there is a probabil- 
ity of the grief of departure being added to by the 
worry of having wife, sister, child or friend tumbled 
into the dock in the sudden removal of the gang- 
plank. 



V. 

WHAT TO DO AND AVOID, ON SHIPBOAED. 

The advice in this paper, too, will be set down di- 
dactically, and much of it will be considered A B C-ish 
by those who have once or oftener crossed the Atlan- 
tic. In the meantime, not even to some of them will 
the maxims be found unprofitable, if attended to — 
judging by the very large number of habitual travel- 
lers who seem to happen upon the very conditions of 
discomfort and imprudence, as if seeking them. No 
attempt will be made to arrange the items in groups 
or any regular succession, though they will be num- 
bered, for convenience, like those in the last paper. 

1st. Perhaps the first condition of comfort in a 
sea-voyage, is to avoid making up the mind as to any 
positive time at which the voyage must be conclud- 
ed. An old Dutch farmer, of Long Island, who some- 
times gathered corn alone in a field of twenty or 
thirty acres, being enquired of as to how he escaped 
being discouraged at the prospect of finishing his la- 
bor, replied that "he would be, if he thought of it ; 
but he simply went in, each day, to do a day's work, 
and in that way the field got finished, eventually, al- 
most before he knew it !" To look across the three 
thousand miles of the Atlantic, and think over the 
days necessary to travel it, even on the swiftest ves- 
sel, is rather discouraging than the reverse ; but by 



48 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

simply avoiding any definite calculation, and consid- 
ering the ship and her officers and crew as doing 
their " day's work," the amount of impatience may 
be very considerably reduced. Creeping ahead a lit- 
tle every day, the whole voyage will soon be accom- 
plished : that is enough to know and enough to feel, 
no matter what anxieties may be at the end. 

2d. Perhaps the next desideratum is to avoid any 
considerable anxiety as to the voyage being a pros- 
perous one, by first remembering that more than an 
hundred runs are made without a single accident, 
and more than five hundred without the total loss of 
a vessel, — and then falling back upon that pleasant 
recollection that you have not the affair in charge, 
any way — that (Providence over all and always to 
be remembered, of course,) the officers and crew of 
the ship have their duty to do and are very likely to 
do it, for the sake of their own lives and the proper- 
ty committed to their skill. It may be straining a 
point, perhaps, but there is really some philosophy 
in getting into the state of mind of the droll fellow 
who settled up one of the " anxious " in a storm oft 
the coast of Ireland, not many years ago. The storm, 
which was very heavy, had lasted for days, and seem- 
ed to be growing heavier and heavier, until the 
" landsmen " began to doubt whether the ship could 
live in such a terrible sea, and one of them approached 
the model passenger and enquired : " What he 
thought of it ? — if the gale lasted much longer and 
the sea rose much higher, wouldn't they founder ?" 
" Why, what the deuce is that to us ?'' replied the 
droll. " Haven't you paid your passage ?'' " I ? cer- 



ON SHIPBOARD. 49 

tainly !" " The company, then, have contracted to take 
you from Liverpool to New York, for so many 
pounds, haven't they ?" " Of course they have — but 
what then ?" " What then ? Why, everything, then ! 
You don't sail this ship — you are a passenger ; and 
it is their business, not yours, whether the ship sinks 
or floats." This may not have much reassured the 
frightened man, but it certainly silenced him ; 
and there no doubt was more than a grain of ear- 
nest in the old traveller's philosophy of remembering 
that he did not steer the ship, as there was undoubted- 
ly comfortable laziness in it 

3d. It is wise not to expect too much on ship- 
board, either in the way of luxury or even of positive 
comfort. Ships, at the largest, are small as compared 
with hotels, and at the steadiest are. "shaky," as 
compared to private dwellings, except when the lat- 
ter have very St. Thomas earthquakes to throw them 
off the perpendicular. Plenty of good food, respect- 
able though confined sleeping-quarters, and attend- 
ance fair but by no means that of a first-class hotel 
— these are all that ought to be expected ; and a very 
little philosophy makes them enough. It has before 
been said that " dandyism is at a discount, at sea ;" 
so is, or ought to be, finickiness. What if neither 
shaving, nor dressing, nor any of the other offices of 
civilized life, can be done quite as well as at home ?. 
Nobody notices whether they are scrupulously per- 
formed, or not ; and some of the neatest of men 
when on shore, when they have become old travellers, 
consent to be slovenly for those few days without se- 
rious suffering. The golden rule on going to sea, 



50 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

is : Expect very little and he prepared to put up good- 
humoredly with it ; then, if " all the modern conveni- 
ences " should happen to prevent themselves, as is 
not at all likely, they will afford double enjoyment, 
and the want of them vail not entail misery. 

4th. Determine to be as jolly as health will allow, 
and as companionable as is at all consistent with the 
temperament. Join in all practical harmless amuse- 
ments and exercises, with the result of making your 
own days less tedious, and producing the same effect 
on those of others. One jolly fellow, sometimes, seems 
to leaven up a whole ship-load : one or two glum 
faces act like a wet-blanket on all concerned. There 
is a comradery in sea-going, scarcely second to that 
of the army; and some of the pleasantest friendships 
of years originate on the deck filled with comparative 
strangers. Quoits, shovel-board, chess, draughts, 
backgammon, social games at cards, all these supply 
amusement to those who will take any of them ; and 
there is room for any amount of table sociability, at 
meals, not marred but rather increased by the little 
accidents to which breakfasting or dining in rough 
weather is certainly subject. 

5th. Make friends, early, with the captain and other 
officers of the ship, so far as they will permit ; but 
take no liberties with them, and carefully avoid com- 
promising any one of them who may have shown any 
peculiar favor, by speaking of it to others of the ship's 
cempany or passengers. Strictly observe those car- 
dinal rules which forbid going upon the bridge, talk- 
ing with the officers when on duty, or distracting the 
attention of the quarter-masters at the wheel. Avoid 



ON SHIPBOARD. 51 

getting in the way of the officers at the compasses, 
or hindering them when engaged in that most impor- 
tant event of the day — " taking an observation." 
Don't enquire, any oftener than is unavoidable, 
where the ship is at any particular moment, what a 
certain movement on deck means, what kind of 
weather it is going to be during the next twenty-four 
hours ; and don't ask the men, when they are heav- 
ing the log, how many miles an hour the ship is go- 
ing, or don't expect them to tell the truth if you do ! 
Don't get in the way when hawsers are being over- 
hauled or yards braced ; and don't wonder if, getting 
in the way when some evolution of hauling ropes is 
going on, you occasionally trip and so learn what 
times and places are dangerous. Don't attempt to 
"help," at any time, except in the rare event of an 
accident ; and thus "keeping out of the way," with- 
out losing any chance of observation and enjoyment, 
secure the friendship of the officers, the respect of the 
crew and the gratitude of all concerned. 

6th. Make friends with the stewards, at once, not 
only by treating them respectfully, but by speaking 
to the two in charge of your particular table and 
state-room — requesting their attention and promising 
them the due douceur at the end of the voyage. Half 
a sovereign each to the saloon and lower-saloon stew- 
ards, and say a crown to the " boots," with half-a- 
crown for beer to the captain of the watch who first 
" chalks " you when you break the rules of the ship 
by going forward, and perhaps half a dozen shillings 
to persons who do errands for you during the run — 
this, reaching eight to ten dollars altogether, is quite 



52 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

sufficient to grease the wheels of service and make 
welcome then and afterwards. 

7th. Avoid attempting to read much, at sea, how- 
ever interest may tempt in that direction. There is 
a motion and jar of the vessel, making the letters 
swim and damaging head and optic-nerves to a de- 
gree needing days for recovery. Some persons can 
read steadily, almost without injury ; others cannot : 
it is never best to try the experiment when it can be 
avoided. And there is rarely much occasion: it is a 
poor passage-list in which more amusement cannot 
be found than in books, for the short period con- 
sumed in crossing the Atlantic. 

8th. Keep on deck, all that is possible. Half the 
charm of going to sea lies in the pure, fresh air, ex- 
cept in very stormy whether. The air of lower- 
cabins and state-rooms is necessarily more or less 
confined, and consequently unhealthy ; while the 
healthiest atmosphere in the world comes fresh to 
the lungs from blue water. There is far less danger 
of sea-sickness, too, on deck than below, when ac- 
tual illness does not enforce confinement to the berth; 
and the thousand sights and sounds of sea-life — sun- 
rises, sunsets, moonlight, storm-waves, whales, por- 
poise-shoals, passing vessels, observations, log and 
lead-heaving, making and taking in sail, signalling, 
etc., are only to be enjoyed by those who keep the 
deck as persistently as possible. The writer saw a 
young lady go below, off the point of Sandy Hook, 
in the summer of '65, and come up again for the first 
time at Liverpool bar: she had the quieted passage over 
of any one on the ship, but scarcely the most enjoyable/ 



ON SHIPBOARD. 53 

9th. Dress warmly — quite as warmly as comfort 
demands, and err on the safe side if at all. Sea-air, 
though healthy, is damp and deceptive as to temper- 
ature. Never mind the appearance; put on the 
clothes. 

10th. Take much exercise. "Want of occupation 
induces long sitting at table and hearty eating; and 
the system must be a strong one which can endure 
this for days, without exercise, and yet suffer no in- 
jury. When there is not "too much sea to make it 
possible, at least a mile or two should be walked 
every morning and a corresponding space in the af- 
ternoon — the long cleared decks, or the gangways, of 
most of the best steamers, rendering this amusement 
of exercise easy and convenient. 

11th. Put confidence in the ship : believe, for the 
time being, that the ship is the best afloat. If you 
go down into the fire-room (which, by the way, is 
quite as well kept out of), don't fall into the fancy 
that so large a mass of fire in the midst of a vessel 
must inevitably burn her : vessels are especially con- 
structed to guard against that danger, and iron does 
not take fire easily. Don't be alarmed at the noises con- 
tinually coming from the fire-room, or think that some 
calamity has happened there: firemen are normally 
noisy as well as grimy, and they need to speak loudly, 
to make themselves heard. Don't fancy, in short, 
that everything will go wrong unless you attend to 
it, except in one particular; and that is, 

12th. -Join the fire-police of the ship, and stick to 
the organization. Take no combustible materials 
below in your baggage — neither matches or changerous 



54 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

chemicals; take no light of any kind below the decks, 
for better reason than because there is a severe pun- 
ishment for any proceeding of the kind — the all-pow- 
erful reason that such an act may destroy your own 
life and the lives of others. On this point, watch your 
own conduct and that of others, and no harm is like- 
ly to result from the close surveillance. 

13th. Never go forward when the ship is pitching 
into a heavy sea: there is always danger of injury, in 
such an experiment by a landsman, and very often 
of being swept overboard, at times when even 
sailors can scarcely keep footing on the wet and 
slippery decks. Never stand at or very near the 
tafrrail (extreme stern i in correspondingly heavy 
weather, as there is always danger of the ship "jump- 
ing out from under you" — an accident which some- 
times happens to experienced seamen who stand un- 
guardedly in that dangerous position. Never climb 
upon the bulwarks, however calm the sea; for there 
is no knowing at what moment there may be one roll 
— enough to finish your individual voyage or delay 
the ship for the purpose of picking you up in a very 
damp condition ! 

14th. Never attempt to go up or down one of the 
companion-ways (stairs), or along one of the gang- 
ways, or the decks, when the sea is heavy, without 
making as much use of the hands as the feet — hold- 
ing on firmly to the nearest convenient rail. Broken 
ribs or limbs are sometimes the consequence of ior- 
getfulness or bravado, on this point. 

15th. In the event of illness (other than sea-sick- 
ness) don't take nostrums, or trust to anything in 



ON SHIPBOARD. 55 

your private "medicine-chest." There is always one 
surgeon, or more, on each ship; they are paid for at- 
tending to the health of passengers, without charge 
except for costly medicine; they are particularly famil- 
iar with the treatment prudent at sea; and it is very 
often the case that medicines upon which dependance 
can be placed when on the more stable element, 
prove injurious in the abnormal condition of never 
being entirely quiet. 

16th. If sea-sick, don't fancy the disease is a mor- 
tal one. Few people die of it, though many (it is to 
be feared) are rendered vastly uncomfortable. Keep 
the bravest heart and the " stiffest upper-lip" possi- 
ble, against the great foe; and above all, do not join 
the noble army of those who ask to be mercifully 
" thrown overboard" as a means of escaping the tor- 
ture. Nobody dares obey the request — not even your 
worst enemy, who wishes that he could; and if it 
should be obeyed, the chances are ten to one that be- 
fore you had gone down ten fathoms in blue water 
the cry might be a very different one. 

17th. Berths, in sea-going ships, are mostly single; 
and yet it is best, especially in heavy weather, to have 
a bed-fellow. This is easily found in the valise or well- 
filled carpet-bag, which packed closely in against 
the side-board, the would-be sleeper lying on the 
side in the inner part of the berth, will generally en- 
able him to lie without rolling, even when the ship is 
doing her worst in that direction, and secure sleep 
when it would be otherwise impossible from the con- 
stantly-waking motion. 

18th — and more important than any of the pre- 



56 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ceding. Remember, oftener than when the service is 
read on Sabbath morning, that there is a Hand, wiser 
and stronger than that of any officer of the ship, 
ruling not only the vessel but the waves upon which 
she rides and the winds and other elements which 
may place her in peril 



VI. 

LOOK-OUTS AND LAND-MAKINGS. 

A laege part of this paper, like much, of the last, 
has especial value for those who have never before 
crossed the Atlantic, though it is possible that some 
of the matter-of-fact information which it contains 
may be found beneficial, if studied and remembered, 
by many of those who have already been " chalked " 
in one or more passages. 

The advice to remain as long a proportion of the 
time as possible on deck, at sea, has been given in 
the previous paper ; and one of the motives has been 
stated as the natural desire to see passing ships and 
witness the novel details of the sea, the sky, and 
ocean-life generally. This applies to the whole cross- 
ing ; but there are especial look-outs to be kept when 
leaving land, and yet more when approaching it, which 
must not be neglected if one of the greatest pleasures 
of the voyage is not to be lost. 

No first-trip passenger needs urging, probably, to 
" keep an eye out " for last glimpses of his native 
land — to see (if leaving New York, as do ninety-nine 
one-hundreths) the blue Highlands of Navesink fade 
gradually away under the evening light, the shores 
of Long Island disappear,. and to utter, in one shape 
or another, that sentiment which Byron embodied 
in 

•* Hy native land , good-night I" 



58 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

We are all prone enough, without urging, to look a 
little " spoonily " on the last speck of the land we are 
leaving ; to think what changes and what accidents 
may occur before we next set eye and foot upon it ; 
and to feel, for a brief period, what they say that 
nearly every man (and perhaps quite every woman) 
feels on the morning after marriage — a sort of inde- 
finable toish that they had waited. So these fare- 
well points will be looked after, earnestly if not al- 
ways understandingly, even if, as in the marriage 
case, the feeling soon wears away and the attention 
is engrossed by something that lies in the present 
and future instead of the past. 

There is not much of an out-look, connected with 
the American coast, after getting fairly away from 
port. There may be a glimpse of the light on Fire 
Island, dropping behind, if the hour of departure has 
been late ; and a day later there may be a nicker of 
light or a distant view of the dark speck that supplies 
it, on Nantucket shoals ; but that is all, as of the land 
covered by the stars-and-stripes, and nearly all as of 
the continent. In those days, already grown old, 
when the steamers carried the news, there was a look- 
out to be kept for the approach of Cape Eace, New- 
foundland, where the last telegraphic intelligence was 
to be picked up for carrying over. But all that is 
changed by the cable, and Cape Eace is avoided 
now, as entirely out of the calculation. Sometimes, 
however, even avoiding that, there is the loom, to the 
northward, when three days out from port, of a long, 
low-lying line of coast, not much more than a rough 
sand-bank, which is really Sable Island, at the south- 



LAND-MAKINGS. 59 

eastern point of Nova Scotia. Bound to or by Hali- 
fax, Le Have or Liverpool, (lights) are likely to be 
the points first made, 48 to 50 hours from New York ; 
and in that case, running up to Halifax harbor by 
Sambro and Chebuctoo Heads, entering and leaving 
it, there are many interesting glimpses of the rough 
coast of Nova Scotia, and of one of the finest harbors 
of the continent, well worthy of attention even from 
those who are soon to see the more-interesting shores 
of the Old World. Bound for Europe direct, now, 
Sable Island, if seen at all, may be safely set down 
as supplying the last peep at the Western Continent. 
It is the approach to the European Continent which 
naturally supplies the most interesting of look-outs 
and land-makings to the American making his first 
run over-sea. This is not the place to enlarge upon 
the fact, so full of romance and feeling ; but small 
prospect must there be of that man finding much en- 
joyment in travel, who does not thrill at the first 
sight of that Old World of history and long descent, 
so different in every regard from the New. It is al- 
ways pleasant to " make land," after the briefest and 
pleasantest of sea-voyages, as many a man has fully 
proved since the day when Columbus and his crew 
watched so wearily for the West Indian Islands ; and 
no number of times crossing the Atlantic takes away 
the satisfied feeling at having done it once more. But 
no man sees the same headlands with quite the same 
eyes, twice ; and it is all the more important, for 
that reason, that the approach to the European 
coast, by whatever line and route it is made, should 
not be lost by the traveller on his first voyage. Only 

6 



60 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

less important is it that the old traveller, certain to be 
enquired of by those who lack his experience, should 
be able to answer their questions a little more readi- 
ly and correctly than most non-sea-faring men find 
convenient. 

The preliminary understanding being established, 
that when nearing the European coast, as shown by 
the greening water, gulls, and increasing number of 
vessels, the traveller should keep as bright a look-out, 
by day or by night, as if the safety of the ship de- 
pended on his vigilance — berth to be quitted at night, 
or table by day, the moment that "light" or "land" 
is whispered — this being understood, the following 
somewhat-extended resume of the prominent points 
made* on approaching the Old "World, by steamer, by 
each of several different routes, will be found instruc- 
tive as mere reading and highly-useful for reference 
at the critical juncture. It should be remembered, 
meanwhile, that the principal land-marks are light- 
houses, or the head-lands or rocks which make them 
necessary, — and that if approached by night, the light 
itself is the only object seen — if by day usually a 
white light-house with the surroundings indicated. 

UP THE IRISH OB ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL TO LIVERPOOL. 

First point made, usually, on the Liverpool route, 
are the sharp and dangerous-looking Skellig Rocks, 
soon followed by Dursey Island, with the head-lands 
and mountains of Kerry beginning to loom dimly 
behind them, on the extreme south-westerly point of 
Ireland, the main-land adjoining being a mountain- 



LAND-MAKINGS. 61 

ous tongue or peninsula, between Kenmare Bay on 
the north, and Bantry Bay (scene of so many of the 
invasionary landings of the French and others) on 
the south. The point is worthy of especial notice, 
from the fact that probably more voyagers from the 
Western World have first looked upon Europe in 
those little specks, than in any other one point of 
view. The Skelligs he some fifty miles, and Dursey 
Island and its "Bull," "Cow" and "Calf" rocks, 
some thirty, north by west from Cape Clear, towards 
which the course of the vessel is shaped from the mo- 
ment of making them. 

The next object of special interest, the coast being 
rapidly approached and the mountains of Munster 
beginning to loom, is Fastnet Bock, a pyramid rising 
out of the water at some five or six miles from the 
high, dark, rocky shore, just before reaching Cape 
Clear — the whole crowned with a white light-house, 
and the picture (by day-light) one of desolation sur- 
rounded by a strange beauty. Here, and at the 
doubling of Cape Clear (an island) immediately fol- 
lowing, by taking Fastnet on the right and the Cape 
on the left — here the entrance is made into St. 
George's or the Irish Channel ; and here, too, the 
peculiar character of the green, treeless Irish high 
lands may be observed, with first glimpses of the 
bold rocky coast, with surf breaking white against it 
— the cabins from which Paddy emerges, nestling 
among the hills — the little round martello-towers 
crowning them, speaking of smuggling prevention 
and by-gone invasions — the peculiar tan-colored- 
sailed fishing-boats, and luggers that fly about like 



62 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

sea-gulls,— the vessels (steamers and others) drop- 
ping into and out of the Channel, etc. 

It is at near Cape Clear, and after passing the bold 
head-land of Mizen Head, — near a little hamlet called 
Crookhaven, snugged away behind the hills, that the 
telegraph station is located, at which arriving ships 
are reported ; and it is from this place, really, that 
the announcements are made of steamer-arrivals at 
Queenstown. 

Beyond this, and commencing to run up the Irish 
coast, the next point of any importance, reached with- 
in a few miles, is the bluff headland, crowned with a 
light, known as the Old Head of Kinsale, and doubly 
famous as the spot where the American packet Al- 
bion was lost many years ago, with so large a num- 
ber of passengers (among whom was Napoleon's 
Marshal Lefebvre, Duke of Dantzic) — and as the 
place which gives name to the one nobleman, the 
Baron of Kinsale, who is allowed to wear his hat in 
the presence of the British sovereign, that favor hav- 
ing been accorded the family many generations ago, 
as a reward for a Baron of Kinsale having overcome, 
by his personal strength and prowess, a continental 
champion who overcame all others. 

It is perhaps an hour after passing Kinsale, that 
Daunt's Rock and its bell-buoy are reached — near 
the entrance to Queenstown harbor, and the spot on 
which the fine steamer City of New York was lost a 
few years since, though without any sacrifice of life. 
Five miles beyond, Roche's Point thrusts out, with 
its light, forming the southern lip of Queenstown 
harbor (Cove of Cork) not unlike the New York 



LAND-MAKINGS. 63 

Narrows in general conformation. Here, in fine 
weather, a steam-tender takes off passengers and 
mails for Queenstown and Ireland generally, while 
the ship merely stops power and lies off the harbor 
long enough to discharge the two kinds of " baggage." 
Sometimes, when the weather is rough and transfer 
more difficult, the ship steams into the harbor (as 
she always does to take on mails and passengers 
when coming west) ; and then, whether entering to 
land or come out again, a view is caught of a very 
handsome land-locked harbor, rather narrow of en- 
trance but very commodious within, with the town 
of Queenstown (so named in place of the old "Cove 
of Cork," in honor of the Queen's visit, fifteen to 
twenty years ago,) lying on the sloping hill at the 
back or north-west extremity, and the beautiful 
river Lee sweeping round behind it, south-westward, 
to the city of Cork, which lies at some miles dis- 
tance. 

Supposing that the passenger does not land at 
Queenstown, and that he comes out of or away from 
the harbor with the ship (the Channel-pilot now on 
board) the next prominent point made is the rocky 
island and light of Baliycotton; then that of Mine 
Head; then the Hook Tower (nearly off Waterford) ; 
then Conigsbeg Light-ship ; and finally the tall white 
light of Tuskar, which concludes the run directly up- 
Channel. 

So far, the Irish coast has been kept very near, the 
character of its scenery widely varying from bold 
and barren to low and fertile, and distant glimpses 
of mountains almost all the while. But from Tuskar 



64 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the ship " squares away" across the Channel towards 
Holyhead and Liverpool, and the Irish coast is soon 
lost to view, through the Wicklow Mountains linger 
long on the sight. 

It is ten to twelve hours after leaving Tuskar, gen- 
erally, when the bold, rocky headland of Holyhead, 
in Wales, is made, ahead to the right, witk its strange 
cleft and bridged rock, its white light-house, and the 
wonderful break-water defending the harbor. Be- 
yond that point, and curving round it south-east- 
ward towards Liverpool, the high Welsh Jands are 
seen to be thrifty farms, with neat farm-houses and 
many wind-mills. Behind, t-he far Welsh mountains 
rise; and in very clear weather distant views are 
caught of the peaks of Snowdon and others of the 
highest mountains in the southwest of Great Britain. 
An object of great interest is found, not long after 
passing Holyhead, in the piles of rocks known as the 
Skerries, two or three miles from the Welsh shore — 
of course dangerous and lighted. Then come, as 
prominent points on a coast all rough and bold, 
Point Lynas, the pilot-station of Liverpool; and Great 
Orme's Head, a rough promontory, with one of the 
most powerful Fresnel lights in the world. Glimpses 
may be caught of little Welsh villages nestled at the 
feet of the high lands, and Llandudno and some of 
the other watering-places . 

But the mouth of the Mersey and Liverpool are al- 
most in view. Vessels, bound out and in, steamers, 
bound to and from Channel ports, odd-looking steam- 
tugs (to an American eye) and odder-looking pilot- 
boats, all begin to thicken, and the evidence is plain 



LAND-MAKINGS. 65 

of approach, to the most important seaport of either 
continent. The Northwest Light-ship is the first 
point marking the nearer approach; then the great 
Bell Buoy on the bar clangs its warning as it rocks 
and rolls; then Formby and Crosby Light-ships are 
passed; at the right the Rock-Light at New Brighton, 
nearly opposite the city, closes the list; and the pas- 
senger is within view of the forest of masts and the 
wonderful long line of docks, showing on the left and 
revealing the great port and city of Liverpool. 

It may be proper to say, here, and the truth ap- 
plying to other places as well as this — that the ap- 
proach to the port should never be lost, especially if 
there is daylight in which to catch it. Many do lose 
it, in the anxiety to look after baggage, change cloth- 
ing, etc., but this should never be done. Baggage 
should have been looked after, if at hand, before; 
that in the hold can be looked after as it comes up, 
when the ship is at anchor; and there is no occasion 
whatever of coming out in " full fig" in the way of cos- 
costume, until reaching the hotel and washing off the 
grime of the voyage. 

Once more : travellers who desire both to learn 
and enjoy, should never permit themselves to lose 
the first approach to any new coast or any great 
port, even if a little broken rest and discomfort 
should be found necessary to secure it. In no other 
way can the general situation and bearings be so 
well attained, and to miss the opportunity once may 
be to miss it finally. 



66 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

UP THE BRITISH CHANNEL TO SOUTHAMPTON OR LONDON. 

The Irish, coas t is not made at all on the voyage to 
London or Southampton. The first point sighted, 
if no error occurs in calculation, will be found the 
Scilly Rocks — small islands, with the light on St. 
Agnes, the largest of them, a little south of the Land's 
End (Cornwall) the extreme southwestern point of 
England — at all times a dangerous point, and pain- 
fully famous in history as the spot where the whole 
fleet of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, the English admiral, 
was ground to pieces and all hands perished, in the 
terrible gale of November 26, 1703, said to be the 
heaviest ever known in England, destroying the Ed- 
dystone Lighthouse, burying the Bishop of Bath and 
Wells under the ruins of his palace, wrecking and 
drowning eight thousand sailors, blowing down seven- 
teen thousand trees in Kent alone, and eliciting a 
description from Defoe, the author of (i Robinson 
Crusoe.'' 

The next point, some three hours later, is the ap- 
pearance at the left of the high bluff and light of the 
Lizard Head (commonly spoken of as the "Lizard'') 
the first glimpse of the main land of Great Britain. 
In some two or two-and-a-half hours after, if the 
weather be particularly fine, a distant glimpse may 
be caught, far away to the left, of either the tower or 
light of Eddystone Lighthouse, perhaps the most 
noted erection of its class in the world — standing on 
a single rock, miles from the shore, dashed against 
by the sea in every storm, two or three times carried 
away and rebuilt, and one of the best existing jDroofs 



LAND-MAKINGS. 67 

of man's power and determination in fighting •wind 
and wave. The next light and land mark are those 
of the Start Point, reached within the next one-and- 
a-half hours ; and the next and far more important, 
is the Bill of Portiand; (so named from its resem- 
blance to the bill of a bird) about forty miles beyond, 
and stretching out from below Dorchester and "Wey- 
mouth. 

From this point, if on the way to Southampton, 
land is scarcely lost again, as very soon comes St. 
Albans Head, at the other or eastern extremity of 
"Weymouth Bay, — of which, and most of the other 
points made on the way tip-Channel, it is almost need- 
less to say, to those at all acquainted with geogra- 
phy, that the prevailing character of the coast is 
bold, rough and rocky, with chalk (giving name to 
the "white cliffs of Albion") commencing to show 
freely and never losing that appearance until the 
mouth of the Thames is really entered. Not long- 
after leaving St. Albans Head, the appropriately- 
named Needles and their light are made — on the 
west point or head of the turtle-shaped Isle of Wight, 
forming the south lip of the sound between "Wight and 
the main, called the Solent. Up the Solent, then, 
with the beautiful wooded and villa-studded island on 
the right and the main land on the left, and sheering 
sharp to the left or north-and-by-west when off 
Cowes and its roads, (the right flipper of the turtle) 
catching a distant glimpse of Portsmouth, Gosport 
^and the great naval station of Spithead, at the right — 
not much of additional interest remains, except the 
first shore-views of fertile Old England, until the 



68 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

twenty or thirty miles of Southampton -water are 
measured, and all the aspects before noted in the ap- 
proach to Liverpool are more or less duplicated in 
nearing Southampton, a great seaport in and of it- 
self, and still greater as supplying a cross-country 
and railway port to London. 

If the destination is London instead of Southamp- 
ton, all the points before named are made, up to 
Portland Bill and possibly St. Albans Head, after 
which the next, instead of the Needles, on the west, 
is St. Catherine's, on the extreme south point of the 
Isle of Wight (the left nipper of the turtle as Cowes 
was the right). 

There is a long stretch of Channel running between 
St. Catherine's and the next point made on the Lon- 
don route — Beachy Head, twenty or thirty miles be- 
yond Brighton, and famous for the allusions to its 
height made by the British sailors in the old nautical 
romances, who had a habit of speaking of anything 
extra large as "looming like Beachy Head in a fog." 
The chalk cliffs have now assumed such height and 
prominence that the whole coast, whenever seen, 
seems to be entirely white and perpendicular, though 
there is really an increase in their height until past 
Dover. The next prominent point after Beachy Head, 
is Dungeness; and very soon after passing this head, 
first Folkestone and then Dover may be seen at a dis- 
tance, while to the right the French coast breaks into 
view, lower than the English though something like 
it in boldness and chalky character. 

The South Foreland is made and passed at near 
Dover, aud the Channel then becomes the Downs — 



LAND-MAKINGS. 69 

those waters commemorated in the old song of 
"Black-Eyed Susan:" 

" All in the Downs the fleet was moored, 
Their streamers waving in the wind," &c. 

After Dover, Deal, Eamsgate (celebrated as the 
greatest of all summer-bathing-places of the middle 
classes) ; then the North Foreland and those Good- 
win Sands on which so many ships have been 
wrecked and so much of life and property lost in the 
terrible quick sands. Rounding the North Foreland, 
comes Margate, the rival of Eamsgate in summer- 
bathing and boarding; and at this point the Channel, 
or Downs, becomes the Nore, actually the broad 
mouth of the Thames, though many miles are yet to be 
traversed before the Thames proper is entered and 
the ascent commenced at Sheerness, by the great 
Chatham Dockyards, Gravesend, Deptford, Woolwich, 
&c, — points which may properly be said to belong to 
London proper and its environs, and consequently out 
of the province of this paper. 

TO GLASGOW, BY THE " NOETH ABOUT." 

Nearly all the steamers bound from America for 
Glasgow, direct, now-a-days, take the course known 
as the " North About" — pass around the north of 
Ireland instead of making it at the south end and 
passing up through the Irish Channel. Their port 
of call, in Ireland, is Moville, the port of Londonder- 
ry, in the entreme north; and the points made and 
the courses pursued are briefly as follows, before and 
after touching at Moville: 



70 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

The first European land made, by this route is 
Tory Island, on the extreme northwest coast of Done- 
gal. Then with perhaps a distant glimpse of the ter- 
ribly rocky and threatening main-coast, at Malta Head, 
the next point is the Island of Instrahull, off the ex- 
treme northern extremity of all Ireland. Then, com- 
ing southward, Glengall Head is made at the right, 
with Innishowen Head not long after and forming 
the north lip of the entrance to Loch Foyle, on which 
stands Londonderry. 

Moville, a tumble-down old town, stands just be- 
hind Innishowen; and beautiful views of the peculiar 
northern Irish scenery, and over the broad Loch, or 
bay, may be caught from the anchorage off the town. 
Here conveyance is taken to Londonderry, and rail 
thence southward, by passengers leaving the steam- 
ers. 

Leaving Moville, for Glasgow, the course is nearly 
northeastward, for a time, leaving the Giant's Cause- 
way at no great distance on the right, until Rathlin 
Island is made ; then the bold promontories of the 
Mulls of Kinnoul and Cantire are passed, again on 
the left; then Sanda Island, at the southeastern ex- 
tremity of Cantire. From this point the passage is 
sometimes made through the Sound of Kilbranna, be- 
tween Cantire on the left and the rocky, treeless, 
heath-covered island of Arran on the right, — while 
much oftener the run is made up the right side of the 
island of Arran, in which latter case, especially, a pecu- 
liarly fine view is caught, in fine weather, just opposite 
Sanda and some distance away to the right, of Ailsa 
Craig, one of the most remarkable of all the projec- 



LAND-MAKINGS. 71 

tions of this beautifully wild coast. Ailsa lies at per- 
haps twenty miles distance from the Mull of Cantire, 
eastward, and about fourteen or fifteen from Sanda; 
— it rises a fearful mass of rock, more than a thous- 
and feet above the sea that breaks white at its base, 
cone-shaped and apparently inaccessible, while thous- 
ands upon thousands of wild fowl make it their nest- 
ling-place, wheel, circle and scream around it — the 
scene one always remembered by the traveller who 
has witnessed it. 

Assuming that the run is made eastward, up the 
east side of Arran, (the westward passage through 
the Sound of Kilbranna having little interest until 
the north end of the island is rounded and Bute 
comes into view, as in the route now to be noted) — 
the next point of interest, after passing Ailsa Craig, 
is Pladda light, on a little rocky island at the south- 
east point of the island of Arran; and then Arran is 
for some time in full view at the left (its characteris- 
tics of scenery before mentioned) until the attention 
is distracted by Holy Isle, another of its small islets, 
larger than Ailsa Craig and almost as wild looking. 
Lamlash harbor and Brodick town and watering- 
place, are both passed on the left, on Arran ; then 
come the small and rocky Cumbrae Islands, with 
light, on the right, with the Isle of Bute on the left, 
much softer and better cultivated than either Arran 
or the mainland previously passed. Toward light 
comes next, on the sound called the Kyles of Bute, 
between Bute and Toward. 

The remainder of the brief passage up the now-en- 
tered Filth of Clyde, to Greenock, may probably 



72 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

vie with the approach to any port in the world. 
For the scenery, on both sides, is softened and beau- 
tiful ; and ahead, at a distance, the Highlands 
of Perthshire lift themselves in fine weather, Ben 
Lomond crowning all. On the left, half way from 
the Kyles to the mouth of the Clyde, Dunoon water- 
ing-place shows picturesquely at the left, with Clough 
light at the right and the Gaunt Duck Eocks and 
beacon just off Dunoon. Then Kempach point is 
passed to the right, and Gouroch; and the smoky, 
manufacturing, ship-building town of Greenock is 
seen at the right or south bank of the Clyde River, 
where it empties into the Firth and forms Greenock 
Roads, lying at the foot of the "Whin Hills (whence 
its frequent rains), with the watering-place of Helens- 
burg on the opposite promontory, between Loch 
Long on the left and the little Gare Loch on the 
right — up the latter of which, for some reason not 
yet explained, all the Clyde-built ships always go to 
adjust their compasses ! At which point the pro- 
vince of the present paper ceases. 

UP THE BRITISH CHANNEL (fEENCH SIDE) TO BEEST AND 

HAVEE. 

The first point ordinarily made, on this route, is 
Ushant, a very high rocky island with lighthouse 
crowning a literal pile of rocks, on the extreme north- 
western corner of France (Brittany). Thence the 
course is about southeast, three or four miles, to the 
entrance of the harbor of Brest, displaying the usual 
long high piers and shut-in port, usual to French 
Channel towns, with the addition of very extensive 



LAND-MAKINGS. 73 

and formidable fortifications. Here passengers who 
wish to hurry direct to Paris, land and proceed by 
rail, only some six or eight hours being consumed in 
reaching the capital. 

Proceeding onward from Brest to Havre, how- 
ever, by ship, Ushant is again made, and rounded to 
the north and west. Some five hours later, steering 
almost due east, the island of Guernsey is sighted at 
the right — an island of singular conformation, with 
little wood, high in the centre and drooping at either 
end. In good weather, Alderney, another and yet 
smaller island, will be sighted next, at the right ; 
while it is only in exceptionally clear weather that the 
island of Jersey, lying further behind, comes into 
view. 

Some three or four hours after passing Guernsey, 
Cape La Hogue comes in sight, famous for one of the 
great naval battles — the cape backed by very high 
bluff lands, while the light stands low. Cherbourg 
is made next, some three or four miles beyond La 
Hogue; and in a good atmosphere a very fine view of 
its great breakwater (one of the finest in the world) 
and immense and formidable fortifications, may be 
caught, as also of the distant heights which relieve 
the low character of the coast. 

After Cherbourg the next point made is Cape Levi, 
showing the peculiarity of two lighthouses, one 
above the other. Then Cape Barfleur, with very 
high lighthouse on long peninsula, while the grounds 
behind rise high at a little distance. Next, in fine 
weather, Cape La Hague is seen, the course being 
now nearly southeast-by-south. Then Cape La Heve, 



74 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

with two lights on the top of a formidable and al- 
most perpendicular hill ; then, and finally, about three 
miles from La Heve, the opening of the splendid port 
of Havre, one of the oldest and finest in France, with 
its long pier, light-house at end, and other charac- 
teristics before noted as common to all French Chan- 
nel ports. Here (at the mouth of the Seine) a splen- 
did old city presents itself, with a strange blending 
of commercial and historical importance ; and here 
again, rail communication opens to Paris and the 
opportunity for continental rambling generally. 



VII. 

ENTERING- EOKEIGN COUNTRIES. 

There are a few pieces of advice to be given to 
short-trip travellers, with reference to entering for- 
eign countries, highly important if very brief. 

Stepping off the ship that has borne the Ameri- 
can abroad, he should heed one especial dictate of 
prudence — to remember that he is abroad, not neces- 
sarily beyond the protection of his own flag (though 
a little too often), but where governments different 
from his own hold sway, and where much is to be 
lost and nothing gained by mixing himself up with 
the local quarrels of any one of those nations. He 
may have allowed himself to talk Fenianism, or 
ultra-British hatred of the idea of Irish nationality, 
on ship-board, up to the very hour of landing — 
though even then he had often better kept silence, 
to guard against spying that may place him under 
suspicion after landing; but be that as it may, from 
the moment of touching any foreign soil, if he is a 
prudent man, he will " keep his tongue between his 
teeth " as to what he believes to be wrong or right, 
governmental ly, in the countries visited. He may 
believe, say, in the propriety of setting " the Green 
above the Red " at as early a day as possible ; but 
that is no reason why he should utter imprudent 
words, on landing at Queenstown or Belfast, calcu- 



76 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

latecl to get him into just such scrapes, all the waj? 
from mere temporary arrest to imprisonment and 
possible trial, as scores of Americans have run 
into, without really meaning anything, during the 
troubled years since 1865. If he should happen to 
be " clown on the Irish," there is no greater reason 
why he should declare his faith too loudly and run 
the risk of getting mauled or killed by the hottest of 
the descendants of Brian Boroihme. 

When in England, too, no absolute necessity ex- 
ists for abusing the Queen and vaunting the superi- 
ority of American institutions, in a manner calculated 
to work discomfort to others and inconvenience to 
self; beyond the Channel, on French soil, even if 
Napoleon the Third is believed to be a tyrant, it is 
wiser not to say as much where a government spy 
may hear and heed at any moment ; and the same 
remark will apply, even more forcibly, to touring in 
any of the other monarchical countries of Europe, 
Prussia, Austria, Italy, Spain, etc., not to mention 
Russia, the most dangerous of all. In one country — 
Switzerland, itself a republic, republicanism can be 
talked with both safety and pleasure ; and it is pru- 
dent to run over to the Alps for the purpose of " let- 
ting off steam " in that direction, if the pressure be- 
comes too great for safety. 

There is another thing to be avoided, commen- 
cing in Ireland and scarcely ending throughout Eu- 
rope. Most of the European countries likely to be 
visited by short-trip Americans, are Catholic, and all 
of them (Great Britain not excepted) part-Catholic. 
Most Americans who go over are either Protestants 



ENTERING FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 11 

or Nothingarians — no lovers of Catholicism, either of 
the classes ; and the habit is somewhat too general 
of speaking disparagingly of the forms of the Cath- 
olic worship, and of the Catholics themselves, under 
the roofs of their magnificent edifices, within which 
are gathered many of the very objects of art most 
strongly calling the traveller's attention and afford- 
ing him most delight. This course is unwise, in one 
point of view, and cruel in another: unwise, as it in- 
volves ill-feeling and possible personal discomfort — 
cruel, as it needlessly pains others who hold differ- 
ently. It is rudeness eis well as folly to go into any 
Church, in any land, without, while remaining there, 
observing its rules of conduct and refraining from 
any offensive act or comment. " If things do not 
suit you, here, well enough to allow you to act as 
gentlemen and friends while here, be kind enough to 
remain away ! " might be very often said, with pro- 
priety, to those Americans who start out from home 
with the determination to insult the world if they 
cannot proselyte it. 

So much for the preparation of conduct, on enter- 
ing foreign countries. Of another preparation — that 
involving a proper understanding of American nation- 
al resources and due knowledg-e what in American 
institutions can and cannot be improved — something 
has already been said. And it only remains to deal 
a moment with one or two of the national regula- 
tions connected with persons and property, some of 
which may be vexatious while all must be submitted 
to with the best grace possible. 

The advice has already been given — have pass- 



78 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

23orts, useful in. all countries, indispensable in some. 
In some of the European countries they will be de- 
manded at short intervals by government officials, 
taken away to be vised (examined and compared), 
and sometimes kept longer than may seem necessary 
to the traveller. For this there is but one rule : give 
them up calmly, and wait with what patience can be 
summoned. The arrangement is not, as it may ap- 
pear at the first glance, a personal insult to you: 
others suffer in the same manner, and live through 
the suffering. 

Again, in all the despotic countries a require- 
ment will be made, immediately after registering at 
the hotel, for the name of every member of the party 
(at least every male) — age, place of birth, country, 
habitual residence, occupation, last previous stopping- 
place, and the number of the room to be occupied ! 
All this to be communicated to the police, immedi- 
ately ; and it really does seem quite the equal of any 
inquisitiveness displayed even among the sharpest 
Yankees of the Eastern States. Nothing is gained by 
swearing over the espionage, however ; and suspicion 
may be excited by any reluctance, when there is no 
ground whatever: "when in Rome, do as Rome 
does," even to obeying the police in the most absurd 
of their requirements. It may even happen that 
before leaving the city you are advantaged by the 
record, in the recovery of something lost or the de- 
tection of some wrong to yourself. 

As to taking in baggage, at the ports or on cross- 
ing the frontiers of different countries. Very large 
amounts of baggage require very large amounts of 



ENTERING FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 79 

examination by the various custom-house authorities, 
unless golden spectacles are put on their eyes, when 
they generally see with great readiness and do not 
always tumble out the bijouterie as well as the dirty 
linen. From America, not many things likely to be 
carried in a trunk are dutiable at the European ports, 
except liquors, perfumes, cigars and tobacco. Of the 
first two there is no occasion to carry any through a 
foreign custom-house ; they have better than we, at 
all times. As to cigars, tastes differ; at all events 
there is not much to be gained, either in cost or qual- 
ity, by carrying more than the few (of which the 
officers of any ship will advise the passenger) allowed 
by law without duty. Tobacco is different, how- 
ever: there is no decent tobacco in Europe, except as 
Americans carry it over; and inveterate tobacco- 
users should take plenty, and either prevent its quan- 
tity being known, by the use of those golden specta- 
cles, or pay duty on the overplus, like men and citi- 
zens of that great nation which can certainly out- 
chew and out-expectorate the wide world ! 

In passing from one European country to another, 
whether by crossing the Channel or a mere frontier, 
there are constant vexatious stoppages. But they 
can be endured, too, pretty easily, if the rule is al- 
ways observed to have the baggage ready for exam- 
ination whenever approaching a custom-station, — so 
that if it is wanted no time will be wasted, and if it 
is not, nothing will be lost. It really seems, some- 
times, that the delays occasioned Will lose the con- 
necting trains, but such things never occur. Avoid 
having anything contraband; have keys ready and 



80 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

instantly unlock when ordered ; make no attempts 
at concealments that if detected would cause trouble ; 
and so may the terrible douaniers of the Continent 
be passed with comparative ease, safety and celerity. 
Close mouths, as to imprudent topics ; observant 
eyes and ears, as to everything occurring ; constant 
but judicious bribery, believing none to be above 
the temptation ; and good temper under all circum- 
stances — these are the four rules of travel in foreign 
countries; and with them, and advice previously 
embodied, there can be no excuse for detaining the 
short-trip traveller a moment longer from the com- 
mencement of his sight-seeing and adventure. 



YIII. 

SHOET TEIPS IN IEELAND. 

Assuming that advice previously given will be 
often taken, and that the greater proportion of short- 
trip travellers, on their first voyage, will leave the 
steamer at Queenstown, on the Liverpool route, — it 
will be proper first to take a hurried peep at Ireland, 
reminding the reader that the commencement is at 
the extreme south, working northward, and that 
those who cross from Scotland to Belfast or other 
ports in the north, to take homeward passage from 
Queenstown, need only to reverse the paper to derive 
the same advantage. Another reminder may also 
be given, — entering upon the legitimate business of 
a guide, ashore — that much ground is to be gone 
over, in this and succeeding papers, and that conse- 
quently the glances at different places must be of 
the briefest. 

QUEENSTOWN TO CORK AND KILLARNEY. 

Queenstown, the port of landing from the steam- 
er, has little to commend it to the attention of trav- 
ellers, except the fine harbor which it supplies to 
Cork. The harbor and fortifications are well de- 
serving the view they are certain to receive, espe- 
cially from those who there first set foot in Ireland. 
The town lies somewhat stragglingly at the west 



82 SEOET-TEIP GUIDE. 

side of the harbor, climbing a side-hill. Southward 
and westward, round behind, the town, to the left, 
the river Lee sweeps away, to Cork, some ten or 
twelve miles distant by it, though only six by direct 
course by land. 

Three modes of proceeding from Queenstown to 
Cork present themselves. The First enables the 
traveller to make acquaintance with that oddest and 
most dashing of conveyances, the "jaunting-car," 
without which Ireland could not possibly exist, just 
as it never could have originated elsewhere than in 
Ireland, — with its two seats lengthwise, passengers 
back to back, driver sulky-mounted, two wheels 
and one horse, and general arrangements for what 
one writer has graphically described as " going it at 
a gallop and everybody holding on." A very pleas- 
ant ride up the banks of the Lee may be thus ob- 
tained; but that mode of transit has a rival in the 
Second: railway, by which the passenger is whisked 
up, on the north side of the Lee, in a few minutes ; 
and that by the Third: steamboat up the Lee, de- 
cidedly the pleasantest of all in fine weather, with 
the capital views afforded of the junction of the Lee 
with the harbor; the small villages that stud the 
banks ; and the public grounds and fortifications on 
the left, and larger shipping of the port on the right, 
approaching the city itself. These little iron paddle- 
wheel steamers run frequently, in summer, and they 
often carry music, making the run more pleasant 
and less tedious. 

Cork, built on both sides of the Lee, and span- 
ning it with nine bridges, is one of the handsomest 



IN IRELAND. S3 

cities in Ireland, as well as one of the largest — being 
only second to Dublin in size and to Belfast in trade. 
It is also second to Dublin in dirt (no high praise) ; 
and many of the best streets are well built and hand- 
some, but of the "back-slums" the less said (and 
observed) the better. To see the town hastily but 
to best advantage, an open jaunting-car should be 
taken, if the weather is fine, and a close one (another 
institution of Cork, covered, closed in front and open 
behind) if rain falls or threatens. The driver, in 
that case (there as elsewhere), will supply the best 
of guide-books. Several of the churches demand at- 
tention — among others the Cathedral, St. Patrick's, 
St. Ann's, and the very old Church of Shandon, with 
its sweet bells (the chiming of which should be 
heard), referred to by Father Prout in his 

" Sweet bells of Shandon 
That sound so grand on 
The pleasant waters of the river Lee." 

> 
There are also the Mansion House, the Royal Cork 

Institution (with a Museum said to be worth visit- 
ing), some of the Banks, etc. ; while above the main 
body of bridges the banks of the Lee are very beau- 
tiful, and one public walk on the south side, the 
Mar dyke, is very pleasant, handsomely shaded and 
attractive. Half-an-hour's call at the Court-House 
will show the dingy assize-rooms in which most of 
the Fenians of the South have been tried, and quite 
suffice as a type of Irish courts. Cork has a consid- 
erable number of manufactories, in woollen, etc. ; 
and no small amount of ship-building is carried on 



84 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

on the north side of the Lee, below the bridges. 
Before leaving Cork, one or two excursions must be 
made, especially one to 

Blarney Castle, Lake and Groves. These 
may be reached in a pleasant ride of five or six miles, 
by jaunting-car, south west ward, first glimpses of 
plenty of the Irish rural cabins, with their white- 
washed walls, thatched roofs, turf-smoke and poverty, 
being also caught on the way. The Castle is a fine 
old ruin, with the donjon-keep still more than an 
hundred feet in air, much better preserved than most 
ruins, and said to have been originally the home of 
the royal M'Carthys. The original " Blarney Stone " 
hangs from the vaulted ceiling of one of the cham- 
bers, and only fools risk their necks in trying to kiss 
it, especially as there is another quite as " real " and 
powerful, to be kissed (" for a consideration "), on 
the lawn below. The Lake, lying near the Castle, 
is very small and very pretty ;• and the " Groves of 
Blarney " are all that they have been called of um- 
brageous beauty. The second excursion (optional) 
in point of importance, is to 

Cloi/ne, an old town, now in ruins, a few miles 
from Cork, east of Queenstown, seaward, with a fine 
view, in passing, of Roskellan Castle, the splendid 
family seat of the O'Briens, Earls of Inchiquin and 
sometime Marquises of Thomond, rendered doubly 
interesting to Americans from the near connection 
with that family of the late Fitz-James O'Brien, 
poet and soldier, who fell during the rebellion. 

Leaving Cork for Killarney, by rail, much hand- 
some scenery is to be enjoyed, with, among other 



IN IRELAND. 85 

views,, a fine one of the Castle and Groves of Blarney 
at some distance to the left ; but nothing of special 
interest breaks the journey until the arrival at 

Mallow, a thriving town, at two hours' distance, 
where the passenger changes cars from the train 
direct for Charleville and Dublin, to that for the cross- 
road for Kiilarney and Tralee, — and where he hears 
the old song of the " Rakes o' Mallow " continually 
sounding- in imagination. There are some manufac- 
tories at Mallow, and much of Irish rural life and 
character may be observed at and around the sta- 
tion ; but there is nothing to tempt the laying over 
of a train, when the reputation of the Lakes is 
calling. 

It is a run of perhaps two hours '(often made 
three or four, by the miserable railroad delays) from 
Mallow to Kiilarney ; and the ride would be a 
tedious one, but for the opportunities of enjoying 
the bare, desolate scenery of the Southwest, study- 
ing the cabins squatted under the edges of the hills, 
seeing plenty of peat-bogs and heaps of the fuel 
piled to dry, and at last finding the beautiful moun- 
tains of Kerry lifting themselves ahead and to the 
left. 

Kiilarney (Village) is prettily situated, a mile 
from the north-east point of the Lower Lake ; has a 
population of five thousand, principally on a single 
long street ; is picturesque (as are many of the blue- 
cloaked peasant-girls) and dirty (as ditto). The 
Nunnery, in the midst of the town ; the Cathedral, 
to the north ; and some of the hotels, supply all the 
features worth note, though no visitor to the town 



86 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

should fail to ride through it at some leisure. Of 
course the attraction of the visit is found in 

The Lakes of Killaeney, three in number, 
called the Lower (or Lough Leane), Middle (or Muc- 
ross), and Upper. They are charmingly situated, at 
the very bases of the fine hills, with Macgillieuddy 
Reeks and Purple Mountain prominent at the west- 
ern extremity ; Tore Mountain and the Devil's Punch- 
Bowl prominent objects south and east ; and such a 
variety in rock, shade and winding water as cannot 
well be matched elsewhere in the world. They are 
somewhat small and "band-box-y" to an American, 
and are (as will later be discovered) something like, 
though wilder and rougher, the English Lakes of 
Cumberland, with a distant resemblance to Lake 
George at home. In some features they are un- 
equalled — in the bloom of the broom or heather sur- 
rounding them; the size and beauty of the arbutus 
groves on many of the islands ; and the wonderful 
prevalence of detached rocks thrust up out of the 
water — especially in the Lower Lake. As is well 
known, too, they have both poetic and legendary 
charm in a rare degree, as they are the scene of all 
the O'Donoghue legends, out of which so many Irish 
stories and dramas have been formed ; while Moore 
has immortalized one of the most charming portions 
of the Lower Lake in his " Sweet Innisfallen," and 
Lover (appropriate name) clustered round them the 
most mischievous of memories in 

"' Kate Kearney, 



Who lives on the banks of Killarney." 
Of the two-days' sojourn at Killarney, the most 



m IRELAND. 87 

prudent division of time is into two portions — one 
day each for Iboat and jaunting-car. In the day by 
boat (when he must be accompanied by a bugler and 
take along lunch) he will pass through all three of 
the Lakes, besides visiting the island and ruined Ab- 
bey of Innisfallen, and Ross Island and Castle (the 
last of Cromwell's holds in Ireland) on the Lower — 
calling at Glena Cottage (Lord Kenmare's) under 
Glena Mountain, passing under Brickeen Bridge, 
going through the Long Range (between the Lakes) 
and the Meeting- of the Waters, and hearing; the 
wonderful bugle-echoes of Irish melodies under the 
Eagle's Nest. Boats, rowers and guides, as well as 
jaunting-cars, can be procured at any one of half-a- 
dozen excellent hotels ; and there is nothing in the 
way of legend that the guide-bugler by boat, or the 
driver by car, will leave untold. 

On the second day, by jaunting-car, the whole 
round of the Lakes may again be made, with the 
Ruins of Aghadoe, the wild Gap of Dunloe, etc. ; 
while, on the return, there will be an opportunity to 
visit Tore Waterfall, a beautiful wild cascade under 
the edge of Tore Mountain, to observe much of the 
scenery made immortal in the " Collegians " (Gerald 
Griffin's novel) and its after-thought, the " Colleen 
Bawn" — to see the handsome house and grounds of 
Mucross, with possibly the village of the same name 
— and to spend an hour at 

Mucross Abbey, one of the very finest mediaeval 
ruins in Ireland, standing near the eastern side of 
Mucross Lake (Middle), with an ivy-grown square 
tower of wonderful beauty ; the tombs of O'Don- 



88 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

oghue, McCarthy More and other Kings of Mini- 
ster yet remaining in the chancel ; a wonderful old 
yew-tree filling up the whole court ; old cloisters ; ivy 
to any extent; and a history dating back to 1140.. 

The traveller should he duly advised/that at and 
around Killarney, " Paddy," male and female, may 
be found in full glory ; that the district is magnifi- 
cently rebellious — very many of the Fenian prison- 
ers and convicts of 1 866-7 having come from about 
Killarney and the Gap of Dunloe ; that roguery and 
beggary equally abound (male and female again); and 
that if he buys all the curiosities offered, from carved 
wood to potheen whiskey, he will have no money left 
at the outset and will need a ship of his own to 
freight home his purchases (not including the whis- 
key, which may be carried internally). 

KILLARNEY TO AND ABOUT DUBLIN. 

Travellers at greater leisure would be likely, after 
seeing Killarney, to go farther south and west to 
Bantry, Kenmare and Dingle Bays, all following in 
succession from the extreme southwest point of Ire- 
land, northward, and affording very fine coast sce- 
nery ; then by the Shannon to Limerick, still farther 
north, and the finest town in the west ; and possibly 
yet farther north, out of Kerry anjd across Clare, to 
Galway Bay and Galway, where the rough-riding 
description of Irishman is yet said to exist in the 
greatest perfection, with the best potheen and the 
most jolly recollections of the novelist Lever. 

But the short-trip traveller will only be likely to 
turn back on his road so far as to return bv rail to 



IN IRELAND. 89 

Mallow, and there changing cars again take the train 
direct by Charleville, Limerick Junction and Port- 
arlington, to Dublin, the capital and chief attraction. 
Very much of interest, to lovers of character and 
scenery, will be found on the way up, in the loungers 
at the stations, in some of the way-passengers, and 
in the glimpses caught of rural scenery, turf-bogs, 
cabins, ruins, and distant mountains. For many 
miles, some two-thirds of the way up from Mallow, 
the railway'runs through the far-famed Bog of Allen, 
in and over which may be seen every variety of the 
turf-bog, the moor, the very desert. And yet farther 
on, if the right side of the carriage be occupied, 
some very fine views will be caught of an immense 
furze-dotted upland, once famous as a race-course, in 
the shape of the Curragh of Kildare, and well worthy 
of a visit, now, for the sake of the large number of 
troops continually encamped there in summer, and 
the " Wrens " (human of a certain female order) said 
to nest there like ground-birds. Only an hour's ride 
beyond, by Naas, and then, 

Dublin, the capital of Ireland, and well worthy 
of a visit both for its present and its past. It lies on 
both sides of the river Liffey (so well commemorated 
in the jolly old rhyme as 

" The Liffey, 

That runs down by Dublin's swate city so fine "), 

some ten or a dozen miles from the splendid break- 
watered harbor of Kingstown (Dublin Bay), of which 
the famous Hill of Howth, the traditional oath of 
every true Paddy, forms the bold northern defence 
against the Channel. Dublin, well known as the 



90 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

capital of Ireland when a nation, and the vice-regal 
seat since the Union, is at once one of the handsom- 
est and dirtiest of cities, with very many fine jmblic 
buildings, charming public grounds, and poor-quar- 
ters so much fouler even than those of the ordinary 
European cities, that they make a sort of celebrity of 
themselves. It is said to have something more than 
a quarter of a million of inhabitants. 

To the short-trip traveller, of course, the jaunting- 
car will come into requisition, in and around Dublin, 
quite as well as in any other locality. There are very 
few places actually demanding internal examination, 
though several would repay it; but of* outside views 
there are an extraordinary number worth remember- 
ing. One day " at a pinch," and two at comparative 
leisure, will do the city comfortably, the best of 
guides being found, as elsewhere in Ireland, in the 
chatty, smoking driver of the car. 

Of public buildings, those best demanding atten- 
tion are the Castle, famous in both history and ro- 
mance ; the Bank of Ireland (once the Parliament 
House) ; Trinity College, from which so much of fun 
and true learning have gone out to the world ; Con- 
ciliation Hall, where O'Connell made his great 
speeches, and on the steps of which his statue still 
seems to be hurling defiance at the Union and its 
supporters ; the Custom-House ; Post-Office ; the 
Four Courts (law building) ; the Crystal Palace ; 
and some of the churches, with St. Patrick's Cathe- 
dral far the most interesting of them. Some hours 
should be spent in the latter fine old building (re- 
stored), whatever the religion of the visitor, — as it is 



IN IRELAND. 91 

within it that all the Knights of St. Patrick are (or 
used to be) installed, their seats and banners show- 
ing prominently ; while some portions of the edifice 
show an antiquity of seven or eight hundred years, 
and the tombs and monuments of Dean Swift, Car- 
ran, Archbishop Whately and several others, lend 
it a profound interest. The Cathedral (Catholic) is 
also said to contain many interesting monuments — 
among others that of Strongbow .(De Valence, Earl 
of Pembroke), the first English invader of Ire- 
land. 

There are some very fine bridges over the Liffey ; 
some splendid monuments, the inevitable Nelson 
leading off with the finest, in the neighborhood 
of the Post-Office; some very handsome streets, 
among the pleasantest of them Lower Sackville and 
Frederick Streets ; while those who wish to find the 
opposite can be handsomely accommodated by tak- 
ing a short drive through St. Patrick's Close, Bull 
Alley, and a few of the other " back-slums " behind 
St. Patrick's. 

Of public grounds, within the city, the only ones 
of interest are Merrion Square, showing all around 
it the faded gentility of what was once the "rale 
ould Oirish arishtocracy " ; and Stephen's Green, 
equally well known as a place of meeting and one 
of execution. Without the town, 

JPhenix Park, the boast of every Dubliner, is well 
worthy of its reputation, from its extent; the shaded 
beauty of part of it ; its high location overlooking 
the city and harbor; the droves of fine eattle that 
find pasturage there ; the Vice-regal Lodge, with its 



92 8H0ET- TRIP GUIDE. 

handsome grounds, on the northern edge ; the great 
parade-ground (the " Fifteen Acres "), etc. ; while 

Glasnevin Cemetery, the " Greenwood," " Mount 
Auburn " and "Laurel Hill" of Dublin, supplies one 
of the finest of rides to the gates and one of the 
sweetest of walks within. In quiet beauty of natu- 
ral scenery, and exquisite taste in arrangement, Glas- 
nevin may vie with "any other cemetery in Europe ; 
and in the wondrously-sweet perfume of its many 
lime-trees will be found another marked charm in 
midsummer. The tomb of O'Connell lies in a taste- 
fully-bordered raised circle in the centre ; and within 
the grated door may be seen the coffin, every day 
covered with fresh flowers by reverent hands — though 
the intention is said to be, soon to remove the body 
to the Tower overlooking the cemetery and the city, 
because " O'Connell must have no tomb that cannot 
be seen from the sea." 

A leisure evening in Dublin may be well and 
wisely spent at the Theatre Royal, where the acting 
is generally good and the merriest and most appre- 
ciative audiences in Europe are said to be found. 

Of excursions from Dublin, the one Avhich should 
be most surely taken if time permits, is to the wild 
scenery of the River Dargle, a few miles southward 
of the city, in the County Wicklow — in some regards 
among the wildest and finest on the "tight little 
island." 

At Dublin the very brief southern Irish tour ter- 
minates, the tourist running down by rail the few 
miles from Dublin to Kingstown, and thence taking 
steamer to Holyhead (Wales) for Liverpool or Lon- 



IN IRELAND. 93 

don. With either of the longer tours already 
sketched, in view, a satisfactory glimpse can be 
caught of the north, as follows : 

DUBLIN TO BELFAST AND THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY. 

Leaving Dublin for the North, the route will be 
by rail direct to Belfast, much of the lower part of 
the route lying near the sea, and the whole extent of 
it crossing successively the Counties Dublin, Louth, 
Armagh and Down ; while of places of interest on 
the way, Drogheda, with the crossing of the Boyne 
("Boyne Water") near it, and its historical recollec- 
tions of Cromwell and James the Second ; Dundalk, 
where Edward Bruce, brother of Robert the Bruce, 
was crowned King of Ireland ; Newry and Lisburn, 
will be found the principal. 

The special " linen-district " of Ireland is reached 
in thus running north, and while scenery roughens 
to become the "Black North," the white-striped 
bleaching-greens and large linen-factories become a 
new feature in the landscape, all the way from 
Drogheda to the capital of North Ireland, 

Belfast, at the head of Belfast Lough, with 
something like an eighth of a million inhabitants ; the 
most extensive linen-manufactories in the world (in 
and around it) ; a Linen Hall, Queen's Bridge and 
several public buildings of interest, including the 
Cathedral, Post-Office, etc. ; an extensive coasting 
and Channel trade, and more commercial importance 
than can be found elsewhere in Ireland, outside of 
Dublin and Cork. A few hours of leisure will be 
very well bestowed in visiting the Linen Hall (great 



94 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

bazaar of the trade), and some of the flax-mills and 
weaving-shops, the number of which seems to in- 
crease the wonder of Mam-Musti, in the "Happy 
Man," that so small a bit of linen as Paddy Murphy's 
shirt-bosom can make a man so blest ! 

From Belfast, north for the Causeway, the best 
route is to take the rail by Carrickfergus to the little 
town of Larne, at the sea-end of Lough Larne, where 
the rail ceases and the long journey by jaunting-car 
begins. Mail cars (of the "jaunting " pattern) run 
thence, by various connections, all the way to the 
Causeway, the breaks being at Cushendall and Bally- 
castle, and the scenery splendidly compounded of the 
rough coast and the North Channel at the right hand, 
and the mountains of Antrim at the left ; while dirt 
and beggary seem to swarm in the miserable villages, 
even worse, if possible, than at the south. One day 
to one and a half (according to connections) should 
be consumed between Belfast and 

The Giant's Causeway, one of the most stu- 
pendous and wonderful of Nature's freaks, lying at 
the extremity of the County Antrim and almost at 
that of the island, nearly in a northerly line with and 
some twenty miles distant west from the lowest point 
of the Scottish Mull of Cantire. It consists of nearly 
one-fifth of a mile (1,000 feet) of upright basaltic col- 
umns, stupendous in size, varied in shape (as to the 
number of sides of each crystal), and so fitted to 
each other as no hand but that of the Divine Archi- 
tect could have arranged them. They should be 
walked over, boated round (and into the caves) when 
the weather and a sea smooth enough will allow, and 



IN IRELAND. 95 

laid up in memory with Niagara, the Western prair- 
ies, and the Alps, — whether the legend is or is not 
received, that the Causeway was built by Finn Mc- 
Coul, the Irish giant (original Fenian — properly 
"Finnian"), to allow a Scotch giant to come over 
and be lathered by him ! Such things may be ; for 
what American does not know that our own Sandy 
Hook, at the entrance of New York harbor, was 
originated by one of our giants, walking across from 
Navesink Highlands to Long Island, stopping and 
pouring out the sand from his shoes ? 

N. B. — The Giant's Causeway has the reputation 
of drawing more shillings from unwilling pockets, in 
the way of fees to guides, for curiosities, and in other 
swindles, than any other place in the world except 
American Niagara. Once for all, elsewhere as well 
as here, on this point the cheap-tourist must " keep 
his weather-eye open : " the millionaire or the fool 
may scatter money as they like. 

The return from the Causeway should not be made 
by the same route as the approach. A short car-ride 
takes the traveller to Portrush, whence the railway 
carries him directly back to Belfast within three to 
five hours. But if a few hours extra can be spared, 
it is very well bestowed in merely running clown 
from Portrush to Coleraine (where " Kitty of Cole- 
raine " is supposed to have abode), and thence by 
rail to 

Londonderry (or Berry), on the river Foyle, at 
the head of Lough Foyle, where a very handsome 
little town of twenty or thirty thousand inhabitants 
may be seen, remarkably well built, lighted and paved, 

9 



96 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

with a central Diamond Square (palpable contra- 
diction, in terms, to any one who does not re- 
member that all New York squares are triangles ! ), 
charming suburbs, and a wonderful historical recollec- 
tion of the Ion of.siesce which it stood against James 
IL's forces in 1689. 

From Londonderry there are two routes by rail 
back to Belfast : by return to Coleraine (much the 
nearer) ; or taking the line so far southward towards 
Enniskillen or Omagh, and branching then eastward 
to Portadown, striking the road from Dublin at Lis- 
burn. In either event the traveller is once more at 
Belfast ; ready to take steamer to Glasgow, and the 
more-or-less brief Scottish tour. 

[For those Americans who take Ireland last in- 
stead of first, of course the previous hints will need 
to be precisely reversed. Landing at Belfast from 
Glasgow, the run will be up to the Giant's Cause- 
way and back to Belfast ; then down to Dublin ; 
thence to Mallow and Killarney ; returning by Mal- 
low and changing there for Cork and Queenstown 
and the home-steamer. 

Leaving out the North, in the yet shorter trips, 
and landing at Dublin (Kingstown) from Holyhead, 
the course will be to Mallow and Killarney from 
Dublin ; then back by Mallow and change there for 
Cork and Queenstown, as before. For time neces- 
sary to be consumed in the different Irish routes, 
see paper at commencement, on " Time of Trips."] 



IX. SHOET TEIPS IN SCOTLAND. 

Theee are two directions of the most ordinary 
progress, in Scotland, just as there are two principal 
land-approaches. Those who reach Edinburgh first, 
take more or less of the Highlands on their way to 
Glasgow ; and vice versa. The point of view to be 
followed, in the present paper, is based on the as- 
sumption of Glasgow being first visited : of course, 
in the alternative case, the order here adopted sim- 
ply needs reversing. 

Assuming, then, that the tourist has reached Glas- 
gow first, whether by steamer or rail, the first mat- 
ters of interest are to be found 

IN A]SD ABOUT GLASGOW. 

Glasgow, situated on the Clyde, is second in im- 
portance of the cities of Scotland, and in some re- 
spects the first. It has a population of between three 
and four hundred thousand ; is busy and thriving in 
every detail of commerce and industry ; and is prob- 
ably a little more like New York than any other city 
of the Eastern World. It, in connection with Gree- 
nock and the banks of the Clyde between the two 
places, carries on an immense business in iron ship- 
building, and no small amount of interest is to be 
found in visiting the great yards, with their foun- 
deries. It seems legitimate, by the way, that these 
"Clyde-built steamers" should supply nearly half 



98 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the world, as they do — as the first steamer ever built 
in Europe is said to have been launched here (in 1812), 
and James Watt, the great applier of steam-power 
to vessels, was born here. It has also a very exten- 
sive shipping and coasting trade, as is well known. 

Architecturally and in public grounds, it has many 
beauties and much historical and romantic interest* 

The Cathedral, dating back to the 12th century, 
and containing, with the yard, mauy fine monuments 
(among others that of John Knox), is a very proper 
boast of the Glasgow people ; and the Royal Ex- 
change commands very general admiration. It has 
five handsome bridges crossing the Clyde, and splen- 
did quays down the river front ; that portion of the 
wide drive which they supply being known as 

The Broomieluw, certainly one of the finest river- 
side drives in Europe. ~No one can pretend to have 
seen Glasgow without driving down it. 

^Kelvin- Grove Paris, the great jmblic ground of 
Glasgow, lies on the Kelvin "Water, a small stream 
running into the Clyde at the west end of the city, 
and is very beautiful, though the little stream itself, 
poisoned by the mills above it, is foul enough for 
Cologne. The other most notable public ground is 

/St. George's Square, lying in the centre of the 
town, surrounded by the principal hotels and many 
public buildings, and containing monuments to Scott, 
Xelson, etc. Among the special " lions " of Glasgow 
may be reckoned 

The Salt Market, now nothing but a shabby 
quarter adjoining the City Prison (between the col- 
umns of which Pritchard, the wife-murderer, was 



• IJST SCOTLAND. 99 

hanged in 1865), but immortalized by Scott as the 
residence of Baillie Nicol Jarvie, in " Rob Roy " — 
many other quarters of the town, too, being sacred 
to similar memories, real and romantic, of the great 
freebooter and others of his class who made Glas- 
gow a resort from its proximity to the Highlands. 

Glasgow should be driven through and around in 
one of the open cabs plentifully supplied ; and the 
tourist should not fail to be taken from the Salt 
Market up through the town by the High Street 
(where the worst mobs in Europe often gather), with 
a view of the dingy but celebrated old University, 
the tumble-down antique (and some shockingly dirty) 
houses, and many other objects of interest which the 
driver may always be depended upon to point out. 

With even one day to spare before pushing on to 
the Highlands, one excursion from Glasgow should 
certainly be made, one day being occupied in that 
and the return. 

ATE AND THE BURNS NEIGHBORHOOD. 

Ayr lies some forty miles southwest of Glasgow, 
on the North Channel, and immediately opposite the 
Isle of Arran. It may be reached by rail in two 
hours, after passing, only a few miles from Glasgow, 
through 

Paisley, a thriving town, celebrated for its manu- 
facture of shawls and other woollen, cotton and silk 
fabrics ; with a fine old Abbey Church (scarcely worth 
breaking journey to visit, however) ; and the Ellers- 
lie Oak in sight at the left, under which Wallace is 
said to have hidden from the pursuing English. 



100 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

In the little seaport town of Ayr, proper, the 
most interesting object is to be found in the two 
bridges, an old and a comparatively new one, im- 
mortalized by Burns in the poem of the " Twa 
Brigs." On what is called the Wallacetown side of 
the river, stands 

The Wallace Tower, on the site of the dungeon 
where he was confined ; with a statue of the hero in 
front and the clock and bells of the old dungeon 
at the top. A carriage should be taken, after the 
local surveys, to visit 

The Burns Cottage, about two miles from Ayr — 
a very humble house, with two rooms and in bad re- 
pair, where the poet was born in 1759. Some two 
miles beyond is 

Kirk Alio way, the haunted church made memo- 
rable in " Tarn o' Shanter " ; and in the immediate 
neighborhood runs 

The Do on, a quiet little stream, sacred to poetry 
and song, from the " Banks and braes o' Bonny 
Doon," crossed by the single-arched stone bridge 
where Auld Clootie pulled off the tail of Tarn o' 
Shanter's mare. 

The Burns Monument, near the banks of the 
Doon, has been built about fifty years, is a handsome 
Corinthian-columned structure of 60 feet, with a 
cupola, and has many interesting reminders of the 
jDoet in a room on the ground floor — among other 
things, a portrait, the Bible which he gave to High- 
land Mary, a snuff-box from the wood of Alio way 
Kirk, etc. The scenery of the Doon is worthy of its 
poetic reputation; and as the return can be made to 



• I2T SCOTLAND. 101 

Glasgow the same night (by rail from Ayr), the day 
is one not to be missed. 

GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH, BY THE SHOETEE ROUTE. 

The shortest route from Glasgow to Edinburgh, 
with any glance at the Highlands, may be made in a 
single day, though two would be more satisfactory. 
Whether taken in one or two days, however, it is 
one of the most charming on earth, especially in fine 
weather, which cannot always be calculated upon. 

Leave Glasgow by rail, down the Clyde, with 
nothing of special interest on the way, until passing, 
on the left and on the near or upper bank of the 
Clyde, 

Dumbarton Castle, now a cluster of ruins on a 
round hill skirting the river, but famous in history 
and once held in high estimation as a fortress, as 
well as being the spot from which Mary Queen of 
Scots, when a child, sailed away to France. Not far 
beyond Dumbarton, the disembarkation is made from 
the cars, at the little station of 

JBalloch, at the south end of Loch Lomond, where 
steamer is taken up the Lake, — the Lake itself and 
the Scottish Highlands, with 

Ben .Lomond crowning the prospect, being in full 
view thenceforth and the real charm of the trip be- 
gun. Loch Lomond is strikingly beautiful, with 
many reminders of the American Lakes George and 
Winnepesaukee, especially at the lower end, studded 
with beautiful islands ; while it has a double interest 
in Ben Dhu, Glen Luss, Ross Dhu, Bannochar, Glen 
Fruin, and other objects which will readily be point- 



102 SHOUT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ed out, on the left, referred to in the rowers' song 
("Hail to the Chief") of the "Lady of the Lake;" 
and Ben Lomond, on the right, continues to attract 
the closest attention by its crag-broken peaks of 
green. 

Landings are made at Luss, on the left, and at 
Rowardrennan on the right ; and at Tarbet, again on 
the left, those go ashore who take coach for Loch 
Long, Inverary, etc. But the tourist does not land 
until he catches sight of 

Inversnaid — Fort and landing — the latter a tri- 
fle, and the former a mere apology for a fortification, 
built for defence against the McGregors (with Rob 
Roy at their head) in 1713. Inversnaid has another 
interest, in the fact that it formed the " lairdship " 
of Rob Roy, before he became an outlaw and a free- 
booter. His " Prison," a rocky fastness at the water's 
edge, in which he was said to confine his captives, is 
passed lower down, at the foot of Ben Lomond, while 
his " Cave " lies above Inversnaid, and is only seen 
by those who continue upward to the head of the 
lake. 

At Inversnaid four-horsed carriages are taken, 
across the beautiful heather-bordered strath towards 
Loch Katrine, with splendid mountain scenery in 
every direction. Part of this ride lies beside the lit- 
tle river and Loch Arklett ; and at a certain point 
the spot is shown where not many years ago yet re- 
mained the cottage of Helen McGregor. All this, 
between the two lakes, is especially the " Rob Roy " 
country, and alluded to in the novel of that name. 

Loch Katrine, claimed to be one of the most 



' m SCOTLAND. 103 

beautiful lakes in the world, and certainly lovely in 
its mountain scenery, is reached after a few miles, 
the carriages being left and another steamer taken, 
at 

Stronaclachar (or Coalbarns), a little landing at 
the extreme head of the lake, from which a glorious 
view can be caught of almost its entire length and of 
the historical mountains that gird it. 

The " Rob Roy country " has been changed for 
that of the " Lady of the Lake," on leaving the strath 
and reaching Loch Katrine ; and passing down the 
lake on the steamer, the points named in that remark- 
able poem rapidly present themselves. Of these one 
of the first and most interesting is 

Ellen's Isle, a very small wooded island at the 
left, where the meeting between Fitz James and 
Douglas is supposed to have taken place, and where 
the immortal little lady was seen with . her boat and 
paddles. A little farther onward, to the right, shoots 
up the giant mountain 

Ben Verne, ragged and craggy in outline, and with 
what has been designated as "the sunshine rippling 
down the green, between its fretwork of bulging 
crags." Ahead shows the sharp, pointed summit of 

Ben A ''an, marking the pass through the Trossachs, 
throug\h which the Knight of Snowdoun made his 
way towards Stirling. 

The landing is made, all too soon, at a little cov- 
ered toy- wharf at the foot of the lake, where open 
carriages are again taken, for the ride through the 
Trossachs to Callandar. The scenery is now among 
the finest in Scotland, and so continues for miles — 



104 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

wild, wooded, craggy, mountainous. A halt is usu- 
ally made for lunch at the pleasantly-situated hotel 

Ardcheanocrochan, in the Trossachs (literally 
"bristling country"), under the brow of Ben A'an. 
Two or three miles away, across the valley and Loch 
in front of the hotel, lies 

The Clachan of Aberfoil, so well remembered by 
all readers of " Rob Roy ; " and those who lie over 
for a day at Ardcheanocrochan (as many do) should 
make the short excursion to the little Highland ham- 
let of Diana "Vernon and Captain Galbraith. 

From Ardcheanocrochan the tourist pushes on, 
still by carriage, through the pass, amid splendid 
mountain scenery, much of it reminding of that at 
the Franconia Notch of the White Mountains. Very 
soon after leaving, Loch Achray appears on the right ; 
and then the Turk Water is crossed, by the 

" Brigg of Turlc" celebrated in the " Lady of 
the Lake " as the spot where 

" When the Brigg of Turk was won, 
The foremost horseman rode alone." 

Some of the very finest of the Highland scenery 
is here, for to the left, shortly afterwards, are seen 
the tall pines of wild Glenfinlass, back of the heathery 
Craig More and the Glenfinlass hills; then comes 
Loch Vennochar, to the right, with beautiful 

Lcmrick Mead (" Glendrig ") on its border, where 
the Clan Alpine always gathered, and where the 
summons went out to assemble, in the poem. Some 
very pleasant glimpses of Scottish rural life are 



' IN SCOTLAND. 105 

to be caught on the way along Loch Vennochar; 
and near the southern or farther end, comes a pretty 
fall of water, made useful in supplying the Glasgow 
Water- Works, but celebrated as 

Coilantogle Ford, where Fitz James and Roder- 
ick Dhu had their conflict. 

JBen Ledi, another of the Highland giants, comes 
into view here, at the left ; and shortly after the way 
lies over Callander Bridge, and the tourist is ready 
for dinner at 

Callandar, a little old town with a street about 
one mile long, and of no particular interest. Here 
the carriages are abandoned and the railway is taken 
for Stirling. Two places of marked poetical interest 
are passed on the way, as the road passes through the 
village of 

Dunblane, made famous by the old song of " Jes- 
sie, the Flower of Dunblane," and shortly afterwards 
over the 

Bridge of Allan, made equally famous by the 
sweet old ballad of " Allan Water." 

Approaching Stirling, a fine view is caught, on 
the left, of the unfinished 

Wallace Monument, on the Abbey Craig, a tower 
which will be very imposing if ever finished ; and 
then come 

Stirling and Stirling Castle, the former a very 
old, uneven-streeted, picturesque town, well worth 
some hours of rambling, and the latter a very high 
rock-throned fortification of irresrular character, said 
to be not less than eight or nine hundred years old, 
overlooking the river and valley of the Forth, the 



106 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Carse of Stirling and the Battle-field of Bannockburn, 
so famous throughout all Scottish history. 

The view from Stirling Castle battlements is 
wonderfully fine, covering the Highlands at the 
west, the Ochill Hills to the north and east, and the 
Campsie Hills to the south, the town of Stirling, the 
ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey, the Abbey Craig, 
Bridge and "Water of Allan, the Carse, Valley of 
the Forth, etc. ; and by many it is considered 
almost unequalled in Europe. The old apartments 
within the Castle are well worth examination, es- 
pecially 

The " Douglas Room." where James II. assas- 
sinated the powerful and turbulent Earl of Douglas, 
about 1440 ; and to the north of the Castle should 
be visited the 

u Heading-Mill" where many of the executions 
of old used to take place, especially those of the 
Duke of Albany, Earl of- Lennox, Walter and Alex- 
der Stuart, etc., by James I., 1424. 

Excursions may be made to the 

Field of ' Bamiockburn, two and a half miles south, 
where the Scottish Bruce defeated the English Ed- 
ward II., 30,000 against 100,000, on the 24th June, 
1314, establishing again the Scottish monarchy and 
giving ground for Burns's ever-popular " Scots wha 
hae wi' Wallace bled ! " Many points of local in- 
terest, thereabouts, will be explained and shown by 
the guides — among others the Bore-Stone, the Bloody 
Folds and the Gillies' Hill, all connected with the 
battle. A profitable hour may also be spent, before 
leaving Stirling, in visiting the ruins of 



' IN SCOTLAND. 107 

CambusJcenneth Abbey, near the town ; and, if 
time allows, also 

Doune Castle, a very fine old remain, not far 
from the Bridge of Allan. It was among and around 
this scenery that Sir Walter Scott spent many of 
his early days, forming his taste for the historical 
and romantic. 

There are also several buildings in Stirling proper, 
worthy of visit and. notice by those who tarry yet 
longer ; among others the Grey Friars' Church, near 
the Castle, built by James IV. ; Argyle's Lodging ; 
Mar's Work, etc. ; but these are all secondary in 
positive importance, to those who have but a limited 
time for stay. 

The run from Stirling to Edinburgh may be made 
in either of two ways : by rail, requiring a couple 
of hours, or by boat, occupying about three, and 
passing down the River Forth to the Firth, and 
landing at Leith (port of Edinburgh), with excellent 
views of the Firth and its islands, Inch Keith, etc., 
and of the coast, the fishing-town of Newhaven 
(scene of Charles Reade's "Christie Johnstone"), 
etc. In fine weather, the latter is by far preferable. 
From Leith, if proceeding by boat, two miles by 
carriage to Edinburgh. 

GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH THE LONGER ROUTE, BY 

OBAN AND INVERNESS. 

Those who are pursuing any other than the brief- 
est route marked out in the present volume, may 
profitably proceed from Glasgow to Edinburgh by a 

line consuming three to four days or even longer in 
10 



108 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the transit, instead of one or two. For this, the fol- 
lowing conveys all necessary general information : 

Take steamer at Glasgow, down the Clyde, by 
Greenock, down the Firth of Clyde, between the 
island of Bute and the main-land ; then through the 
Kyles of Bute into Loch Fine and up Loch Fine to 
Loch Gilp (its northwestern extremity) and to Loch- 
gilphead, the termination of first steamer's route. 
From Lochgilphead, by boat on the Crinan Canal 
(towed) across the isthmus (neck of the Mull of 
Cantire) to Crinan, at the end of the canal, on the 
eastern side of Jura Sound. At Crinan, steamboat 
again across Jura Sound northwestward, through the 
archipelago of islands formed by Luing, Scanna, 
Sera, etc., to 

Oban, on the west shore of the main, opposite 
the island of Mull. Much of the scenery through 
all this route is charming, blending the marine and 
the mountainous as possibly they are blended in no 
other spot on the globe. 

From Oban, which is nothing except from its 
surroundings, an excursion of one day should be 
made, by steamer, across the Sound, below and around 
the south coast of Mull, to 

lona (or Icolmkill), a beautiful little island lying 
a little northwest of the extreme southwest point of 
Mull, displaying some of the most lovely of the 
rugged coast-characteristics of the Western Islands, 
and 

Fingal's Cave (Staffa), a basaltic columned 
natural curiosity, of giant size, jutting into the sea 
and presenting many of the characteristics of the 



' IN SCOTLAND. 109 

Giant's Causeway (Ireland), "but with peculiar fea- 
tures of overhanging roofs and arched caves, render- 
ing it perhaps even more interesting than its rival. 
The return from Staffa and Iona will be made to 
Oban. 

From Oban, those who have no longer time at 
command, can take the Scottish Grand Junction Rail- 
way, running directly east across the head of Loch 
Awe (the Campbell country) to Crianlarich, a few 
miles north of the head of Loch Lomond. Thence 
either by carriage or by rail to the head of Loch Lo- 
mond, and down it by steamer to Inversnaid, where 
the previously-marked-out route from Glasgow will 
be taken, leading by Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, 
Stirling, etc., to Edinburgh. 

But those who can spare yet a day or two in ad- 
dition, should take, at Oban, the steamer up Loch 
Linnhe, Loch Lochy, Loch Ness, etc., and the grand 
Caledonian Canal forming a connection between 
them, something over one hundred miles, through 
the most magnificent of Scottish lake and mountain 
scenery, including Ben Nevis, the Grampians, etc., 
with one of the noblest works of modern engineer 
ing (in the canal itself), to 

Inverness, a handsome and thriving town, sup- 
plying the metropolis to that portion of North Brit- 
ain, lying at the head of Murray Firth, on the eastern 
coast of Scotland, some three-fourths of its whole 
length northward. 

From Inverness the return may be made by ca- 
nal ; but more variety is found by taking coach from 
that place, southward through the whole of the High- 



110 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

lands, over splendid roads and through and among 
the mountains that have been passed on going up, 
skirting some of the finest of the Perthshire scenery, 
to the head of Loch Lomond, where "boat may be 
taken to Inversnaid, and the route pursued by Loch 
Katrine, the Trossachs, Stirling, etc., as before indi- 
cated. It is not too much to say that while either 
of the previous routes affords glimpses of some of the 
very best of Scottish scenery, those who would know 
Scotland even moderately well should endeavor to 
afford time and means for making the whole of the 
last. 

AT AND ABOUT EDINBURGH. 

Edinburgh, the capital city of Scotland, lying 
some two miles from the south side of the Firth of 
Forth (at Leith), will be found at once one of the most 
beautiful towns in Europe in location and buildings, 
and one of the most interesting in the historical, 
romantic and poetical associations with which it 
is studded. It has a population ranging between 
150,000 and 175,000; is divided into two parts, the 
Old and New Town, by a deep ravine or gulch, once 
a deformity, but now spanned by beautiful bridges 
and overhung by charming gardens (the ' ; Prince's 
Street "). It has three points of principal interest, all 
elevations, and lying nearly equidistant from each 
other, in a triangle : the first being the Calton Hill, 
the second Arthurs Seat, and the third the Castle ; 
while in passing through and looking down a single 
street in the Old Town (the High Street, changing 
into the Canongate), and a single one in the New 



■ IN SCOTLAND. Ill 

Town (Prince's Street), the difference between mod- 
ernism and antiquity will be wonderfully well shown. 

The at-all-hurried traveller should " do " Edin- 
burgh by cab — an open one if the weather is fine, 
and a close one in the opposite event ; the driver, 
here as elsewhere in Europe (not always in America), 
being one of the most useful of guides. 

Calton Hill may well be first visited, with its 
Nelson, National, and other monuments, Observa- 
tory, fine views over the Firth of Forth, etc. ; and 
on the way down from it will be passed the 

Burns Monument, a beautiful structure, pillared 
and Grecian, with winged griffins supporting an 
hour-glass, and a bust of the poet ; 

The Bridewell and Debtors' Prison, very hand- 
some embattled buildings — too handsome for their 
use. It is worthy of particular note that on the spot 
where the prison now stands, stood the old " Kirk of 
Field," in which Darnley, Queen Mary's husband, 
was blown up and killed in 1567. Passing down the 
North Back of the Canongate, the visitor will be in 
a moment at the 

Pala.ce of Holyeood, a queer but handsome old 
French - looking chateau, with pointed pepper-box 
turrets, by far the most interesting building in Scot- 
land, and unexcelled by any in Europe. 

This Palace (or " Holyrood House," as it is oftener 
called) is said to have been founded by David the 
First, the Crusader (who figures in Scott's " Talis- 
man"), about 1130 or 1140; and it has ever since 
held a prominent place in Scottish history, being gen- 
erally the residence of the royal family while there 



112 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

was one to reign, and especially sacred to the for- 
tunes and misfortunes of Mary Stuart. 

The gateway of Holyrood is handsome, and note- 
worthy from its still bearing the arms of Queen Mary. 
Opposite to it is a very handsome fountain, erected 
by the late Prince Consort (Prince Albert) ; and 
across the Court-yard is an humble building, much 
observed, said to have been Queen Mary's Bath. 

Within there are state apartments for the present 
royal family when visiting Holyrood, but they are 
of no consequence after (or before) seeing the corre- 
sponding apartments at Windsor Castle. The rooms 
especially commanding attention are 

The Picture Gallery, a very long low-ceilinged 
chamber, filled with royal portraits (ugly enough, 
most of them) of all ages, but showing a much great- 
er attraction in having once been the great Hall of 
Holyrood, and the spot where Charles Edward 
Stuart, the Pretender, when holding Edinburgh in 
1745, held the "Hunters' Balls," one of which is 
made so notable in the pages of " Waverley." Among 
the portraits best worth observing here, however, 
are those of Robert Bruce (1306); David the First 
(1124); James the Fourth (killed at Flodden Field, 
1513); James the Fifth (the " Fitz-James " of the 
"Lady of the Lake," and father of Queen Mary) ; 
Charles the First ; Duncan (murdered by Shak- 
speare's Macbeth) ; Macbeth himself; and Malcolm 
(Malcolm Canmore) who succeeded the kingly mur- 
derer. 

Lord Darnley^s Rooms come next in order of 
showing, with pictures and tapestry ; then 



IN SCOTLAND. 113 

The Staircase is seen — that narrow staircase up 
which the assassins crept to murder David Bizzio. 
It is on the floor above that the two most interest- 
ing rooms in Holyrood are to be found : 

Queen Mary^s Audience-JRoom, where that un- 
fortunate queen gave her audiences and was lectured 
by John Knox. On the magnificent canopied bed, 
with its rotting velvet, still standing here, Charles 
the First slept while at Holyrood ; the Pretender, in 
1745, and the Duke of Cumberland after Culloden. 
The next room is still more interesting and mournful — 

Queen Mary's Chamber, where she slept ; the room 
panelled in ceiling and with tapestried walls; and 
the bed still standing as she left it, rotting, now, 
canopy and covering ; while several other remem- 
brances of her — table, work-box with work, etc, — 
fill up the room, one of the most sadly attractive on 
earth. Close adjoining is 

The Supper Room, where Rizzio was stabbed 
while clinging to the very skirts of the Queen ; and 
just beyond is 

The Ineffaceable JBlood, the spot at the stair-head 
where Rizzio was dragged to die, and where a large 
dull red stain appears, which those who have " faith " 
enough may believe has lingered, spite of fading and 
scrubbing, for three hundred years ! Adjoining 
Holyrood House are the ruins of 

Holyrood Abbey, of which the roofless walls re- 
main, with very handsome Gothic gateway and win- 
dows, old tombs in the pavement, and recollections 
of the altar where Queen Mary was married to 
Darnlev. 



114 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Away from Holyrood the drive should be re- 
sumed, up the " Queen's Drive " and around 

Arthur's Seat, the high hill overlooking Edin- 
burgh, with a collar or ruff of rocks under the brow, 
called Salisbury Crags. Some fine views are caught 
in skirting the hill ; and one of the noblest in Europe 
is attained on leaving the carriage and climbing to 
the rocky top, whence Edinburgh, the Lothians, the 
distant Highlands, the Frith, etc., are all spread be- 
fore the eye. Coming round the hill toward the 
town, excellent views are caught of 

Jeanie Deans' s Cottage, the Wall of ' Dumbiedikes, 
and Muschafs Cairn (near Salisbury Crags), all im- 
mortalized in Scott's " Heart of Mid-Lothian." 

Many interesting objects present themselves in 
driving from the foot of Arthur's Seat, up the Canon- 
gate, the High Street, the Lawn Market and Castle 
Hill, to the Castle. The very tall old houses (some 
of them twelve stories !) ; the narrow alleys, or 
" Wynds " ; some of the churches (among others the 
Tron Church, in which may be seen the altar at which 
the real and actual Annie Laurie was married) — Dr. 
Guthrie's, St. Giles (with its splendid spire), the As- 
sembly Hall, etc.) ; the old 

Mouse of John Knox; Argyle's Balcony; the 
Tolbooth (prison) ; the old Parliament House ; and 
many other objects of interest stud the drive, until 

Edinburgh Castle is reached, rock-throned, com- 
manding and picturesque, with a narrow and wind- 
ing entrance, odd old chambers, the 

Birth-Room, where Queen Mary bore James VI. ; 
the 



IF SCOTLAND. 115 

Regalia-Room, where the regalia of Scotland is 
preserved and shown (by order obtained at the Coun- 
cil Chambers, High Street, every day between 12 and 
3), with an antiquity dating back beyond record, 
while it has figured in nearly every phase and period 
of Scottish history. Principal among the incidents 
connected with it, meanwhile, will be remembered 
its capture from the English by the Earl of Moray 
(by escalade of the rock, as Quebec was taken by 
Wolfe) in 1313, — and its long defence for Queen Mary 
by Kircaldy of Grange, in 1573. Among the nota- 
ble curiosities connected with the Castle, is 

Mons Meg, an immense old cannon (till the days 
of our late war), founded in France, known to have 
been used at the siege of Norham Castle in 1514, 
and burst in firing a salute to James Duke of York 
(James II.) in 1682 — perhaps as a warning of the 
blow-up that was coming to Mm! 

Among the other objects which should certainly 
be seen at Edinburgh, is the 

Scott Monument, on Prince's Street, a Gothic 
structure of more than two hundred feet in height, 
with a magnificent colossal statue of Sir Walter, by 
Steel, shrined within, many emblematic figures, an 
inscription by Jeffrey, and altogether one of the 
finest monumental works of the age. 

George Heriot's Hospital (made memorable by 
Scott, in the " Fortunes of Nigel ") ; Scott's old 
residence ; the Greyfriars' Church and Churchyard ; 
the Antiquarian Museum ; George's Square ; Brunts- 
field Links (meadows) ; the Edinburgh Cemetery ; 
Leith, with its magnificent Granton Pier, and Leith 



116 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

Walk leading down to it — these, and fifty other ob- 
jects of interest, present themselves to longer tam- 
ers in the line old town, though hasty visitors will 
scarcely find time for them. 

An evening may generally be spent very pleas- 
antly at the Theatre Royal, which supplies the lead- 
ing spectacular entertainment of the town ; and 
Edinburgh is somewhat noted for its literary re- 
unions and entertainments. 

One excursion should certainly be made, on a 
"Wednesday or a Saturday if possible, either by cab, 
or by the Peebles railway, to 

JRosslyn, Hawthornden, and Dalkeith JPalace 
(seat of the Duke of Buccleugh). Rosslyn Chapel, 
without and within, is a marvel of laborious beauty, 
besides showing an antiquity elating back to 1446. 
Some of the clustered and spiral columns in the in- 
terior are held to be matchless, especially the " Pren- 
tice's Pillar," of which the guide will very readily 
tell a tough legend. The ruins of Rosslyn Castle 
stand by the Esk side, and are very picturesque — be- 
lieved to date back to 1100 or 1200, and certainly 
the old family seat of the St. Clairs, Earls of Caith- 
ness and Orkney. 

Hawthornden is a fine old mansion, once the 
residence of the poet Drummond (" Drummond of 
Hawthornden "), with subterranean caverns beneath, 
exciting much interest. 

Dalkeith Palace is a large square structure, sur- 
rounded with an extensive park, with great antiquity 
and an intimate connection with the fortunes of the 
Grahams and the Douglases, from the latter of whom 



IN SCOTLAND. 117 

it came to the family of Buccleugh. Anne, Duchess 
of Buccleugh and Monmouth, lived here after the 
execution of her husband for the " Monmouth Rebel- 
lion ; " and long before, Froissart, the French chron- 
icler, is said to have here visited the Earl of Douglas. 

Other pleasant excursions may be made, if time 
allows, to Newbattle Abbey, Dalhousie Castle, 
Craigmillar Castle (ruins once occupied by James 
V. and Queen Mary), etc. ; and yet a little additional 
time, will allow of taking the Edinburgh and Ber- 
wick railway, to Melrose station, whence may be 
visited 

Abbotsford, on Tweed-side, the splendid baro- 
nial residence of Sir Walter Scott, with many inter- 
esting memorials remaining of that great poet and 
romancer. For this, carriage should be taken at the 
station, for the drive of three miles and return. 
Very near the station lies 

Melrose Abbey, founded by David L, in the twelfth 
century, and considered one of the finest Gothic re- 
mains in Europe, while it is full of reminders of the 
numbers of the Scottish Kings, and the heart of 
Robert Bruce, buried here, as well as doubly im- 
mortalized by Scott in his exquisite 

" If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
Visit it by the pale moonlight," etc. 

Some three or four miles in the opposite direction 
lies 

Dryburgh Abbey, only less beautiful as a ruin, 
and containing the tombs of Scott, his wife and eld- 
est son, besides kingly memorials. Thence to Ber- 
wick and by Great Northern road to London. 



X. 

SHOET TEIPS IN ENGLAND. 

The points of interest presented, in England, are 
so many and varied that only a few of them, though 
the most interesting, can be cnlled by the short-trip 
traveller, who yet wishes to see other countries and 
does not go beyond the extreme four months for all. 
The points of approach, too, will necessarily be va- 
ried, as before indicated, in trips of different length 
between the two extremes of one-and-three-quarters 
and four ; and it is again necessary to refer to the 
second paper in the present volume, " Time of Trips," 
for the order in which it will be most convenient 
to visit them, as one or the other arrangement is 
adopted. 

The shortest of the short trips contemplated 
gives us only, in England, 

LIVERPOOL AND CHESTER, TO LONDON. 

Liverpool, lying in South Lancashire, on the 
north side of the river Mersey, is the largest seaport 
on the globe, the trade of a whole world literally 
concentrating here ; and it is as a seaport, with its 
magnificent docks and the variety of shipping passing 
in and out from them, that its predominating interest 
is to be found. 

The city itself is large, populous, and many por- 



IN ENGLAND. 119 

tions of it (especially in the suburbs) notably hand- 
some. There are few public buildings worthy of 
note, however. St. George's Hall, standing at the 
apex of the hill on which the town rises from the 
Mersey, is one of the noblest buildings in Great 
Britain, and worthy of close attention, without and 
within. After this, the new Exchange, the Assize 
Courts, the Town Hall and Custom-House, are the 
most notable ; though to commercial visitors the 
heavy and ponderous mercantile buildings on the 
lower streets near the river may be quite as interest- 
ing. There are a few monuments worth notice — es- 
pecially the recently-erected equestrian statue of 
the Prince Consort, in front of St. George's Hall; 
that of Nelson, by the Exchange ; that of George 
III., at London Road, etc. The principal cemetery 
is St. James's, very tasteful and with a handsome 
statue of Mr. Huskisson, the great commercial found- 
er. But far beyond any mere buildings, at Liver- 
pool, in interest, are the famous 

Liverpool Docks, the most costly and extensive 
in the world, some six miles in extent, on the north 
or city side of the Mersey, and constructed at a cost 
of £17,000,000 to £20,000,000— equal to $85,000,000 
to $100,000,000. They are, commencing at the west 
or seaward end of the line, the Canada, Huskisson, 
Sandon (graving docks), Bramley-Moor, Nelson, 
Prince's (at the centre of the city), St. George's, 
Salthouse, Queen's, King's and Brunswick; while 
across the river, at Birkenhead, there are some (in- 
cluding Laird's building-docks) of quite equal interest 

and magnificence. 
11 



120 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

The Sandon Docks are immense basins, like those 
in the Navy Yards at Brooklyn and Charlestown, 
arranged for the floating in of vessels for repair, 
closing of gates, and pumping out until the hulls are 
left dry for the workmen. The others, or commer- 
cial clocks, are rendered necessary by the immense 
height and depth 'to which the tides rise and fall 
(eighteen to thirty feet, against our New York five 
to eight) ; and they act upon the exact reverse of 
the Sandon principle — upon exactly the same prin- 
ciple, in fact, as that of " locking " on our great 
canals. 

These great commercial docks, constructed of 
Scotch granite and iron, are, indeed, purely and 
simply immense canal locks, with swing-gates, into 
which vessels are taken at high tide and the gates 
closed so as to retain the water within and keep 
them afloat and at the proper height for convenient 
receiving and discharging. The machinery for mov- 
ing the gates is only less massive than the docks, 
partly hand and partly hydraulic power. Except at 
periods when repairs may be demanded, the water 
in the docks seems never to be allowed to run down ; 
and to secure this end all entrances and departures 
of vessels are made somewhere within about two 
hours of high tide, the gates never being allowed to 
open otherwise than during that limited space at and 
near high water. 

It is at and around the Liverpool docks, too, that 
the best idea can be formed of the immense extent 
of the commerce of the port, from the vessels of all 
nations lying in dock — of the paltriness of English 



• IN ENGLAND. 121 

river-boats, the meanness of English ferry-systems, 
etc., while ia going to and from them some idea may 
be formed, along miles of " gin and spirit stores," 
how England gnzzles, even worse, if possible, than 
America. 

The Liverj)Ool cab-system is very like that of 
London — cheap and excellent. With the use of 
these vehicles the sight-seeing may be quickly and 
cheaply dispatched ; from the docks to the splendid 
railway-stations, there are really few public buildings 
worth internal view. 

There are some highly interesting rides, a few 
miles into the suburbs, to be enjoyed by those who 
have abundance of time ; but these are scarcely to be 
taken by the short-trip traveller, who can find their 
equivalent elsewhere and with less delay. There are 
now two excellent theatres, the Prince of Wales's 
and Royal Alexandra, at either of which an evening- 
may be well spent, especially as almost always dur- 
ing summer they are occupied by London companies 
turning the metropolitan vacation to profit. 

There is one excursion, from Liverpool, that must 
be made, even by the most hurried — that by rail, 
with half an hour's ride, across the beautiful rural 
scenery of Cheshire (southward of the Mersey) to 

Chester, on the little river Dee, one of the old- 
est cities in England, and on some accounts among 
the most interesting. It has figured in history from 
and before the time of the Romans, some of whose 
mosaic pavements are yet existing ; while the walls 
surrounding the town are known to be so old as to 
have been repaired and extended in a. d. IS I The 



122 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

fine Welsh mountains are in full view from- it, and 
they supply a reminder that it was the fortified town 
so long held by the De Lacys, " Constables of Ches- 
ter," who with its aid beat back the wild Welsh bar- 
barians making incursions across the marches. 

The Old Walls are first among the curiosities of 
Chester — with the walks they supply on the broad 
top and the towers that stud them at various points. 
The most interesting of these latter is King Charles's 
or the Phoenix Tower, on the top of which Charles 
the First stood to see his last army defeated on Row- 
ton Moor. In this tower there is a small but very 
interesting museum of antiquities, including the Cas- 
tellan. 

The Cathedral comes next — a fine old Gothic 
structure of 700 or 800 years in age. It is interest- 
ing, throughout — the great Chapel, the Crypt and 
Chapter-house; and there is an especial interest in 
the latter, in two flags hung over the doors, carried 
by the Cheshire Regiinent (22d) up Bunker Hill in 
our Revolution, and by Wolfe at the taking of Que- 
bec. 

The Old Houses of Chester follow close after the 
Cathedral in interest. Their arcaded first-stories 
give the streets a strange appearance, apart from the 
upper stories hanging out beyond the lower ; and in 
two of them — known as the Old Derby Palace and 
God's Providence House — are to be found some of 
the finest timber-ancl-plaster work in Europe. There 
is an old Roman Bath on Bridge Street, well worth 
attention ; and as much may be said of the four old 
Gates (arched gateways), giving admission within 



IN ENGLAND. 123 

the walls. The Castle is better worth visiting on 
account of the old one which stood on its site, than 
for any historical interest that itself possesses. If 
time allows, a visit should be paid to 

Eaton Hall, in the immediate neighborhood, the 
splendid seat of the Marquis of Westminster (the 
richest nobleman in England), and one of the hand- 
somest residences in the kingdom. 

For a day, or half-a-day, at Chester, a cab should 
be taken (easily found near the railway station) ; and 
the local guide-book should be bought (cost one shil- 
ling) there as elsewhere — more for after reading than 
use on the spot, where the driver-guide is usually 
worth twenty books. 

The run from Chester to London may be made 
with or without returning to Liverpool, From Liv- 
erpool, the direct line of the London and North- 
western road is taken, across Cheshire, Staffordshire j 
Warwickshire, etc., and by Crewe, Stafford and Rug- 
by; and from Chester a branch of the same road 
may be taken, joining the main line within a few 
miles, at Crewe (the great railway-repair-shop of 
England), — or the Shrewsbury and Hereford road 
may be taken so far as Shrewsbury, with a cross-cut 
thence to the main line at Stafford. 

AT AND ABOUT LONDON. 

London is, to Americans, the most interesting of 
all the great cities of the Old World, from the triple 
fact that it is the largest city of the civilized globe 
— that in it, alone, of the capitals of Europe, the 
language is the same as our own, so that signs, direc- 



124 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

tions, inscriptions, etc., can all be understood by the 
least-learned visitor — and that, as mainly descended 
from the same people inhabiting it, the historical 
memorials involved are to some extent our joint 
property. The same fact, in some degree, exists 
with regard to everything in England ; but there is 
probably no other point, except possibly the neigh- 
borhood of Shakspeare's birth-place, where it as- 
serts itself so strongly as at and around the great 
capital. 

Scarcely any traveller but is advised that London 
lies on the Thames, at some fifty miles from the mouth 
of that river, and that it was a city when the Romans 
ruled in Britain ; but some may need to be reminded 
that it occupies both sides of that river, nearly in 
equal proportions — the northern section being com- 
prised in the County of Middlesex, and the southern 
in that of Surrey ; and that it has as many divisions 
as Philadelphia (formerly) or Boston, under the dif- 
ferent names of The City, Westminster, Marylebone, 
Finsbury, Lambeth, Tower Hamlets, Chelsea and 
Southwark. It may be also necessary to give an- 
other reminder — that the population of this immense 
human hive is now between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000; 
and that the city and suburbs (comprised within the 
above designations) cover a space of about twelve 
miles by ten, or one hundred and twenty square 
miles, so that a city of the size of ~New York could 
be cut away from one side of it without leaving any 
greater proportional mark than would be the cutting 
away of Yorkville and Harlem from the American 
commercial metropolis. 



IN ENGLAND. 125 

Of coarse no attempt at description could be here 
either necessary or possible : all that can be supplied 
for the benefit of the unaccustomed traveller, is a 
statement of the objects best worth visiting, and 
directions for reaching them most conveniently. 

The cab-system of London (though the grum- 
bling John Bulls are always faulting it) is the best 
in the world, or only rivalled by that of Paris. 
Hansom cabs (two- wheelers) and four-wheel cabs 
are to be found everywhere. Their fares vary from 
one shilling sterling to two and three shillings, for 
either one or two persons, according to distance ; and 
they can be employed for two shillings per hour. 
Carriages, for larger parties, or those who wish to 
ride more luxuriously, can be obtained for about one- 
third what the same vehicles cost in New York : as, 
for instance, during the height of the season of 1867, 
three persons hired a faultlessly-appointed open car- 
riage-and-four, with driver in full livery, from a fash- 
ionable coach-office, for the round of the Parks, in- 
volving some three hours, for ten shillings sterling, 
equivalent to $2.43 cents (gold) with a few pennies 
additional as the driver's fee ! 

But to return to the cabs. They are the legs of 
London, so to speak; and the hurried traveller should 
use them freely, thus not only saving time and fa- 
tigue, but having a guide always at hand in the 
driver. With their aid, the places named may be 
visited with great rapidity and yet with pleasure and 
satisfaction. A good local guide-book, with map 
(Routledge's can be bought for one shilling), will 
also be found convenient, though more for future 



126 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

reference than use on the spot — as may be said of all 
local guide-books. 

Westminster Abbey is probably the first object of 
interest in London, from the number of great dead 
lying within its walls. It can be comfortably " done " 
in one day — the first half devoted to Poets' Corner, 
and the other " free " parts of the Abbey, where 
stands the long array of tombs and tablets to the 
British poets, artists and worthies, from Shak- 
speare's time to the present, with a few noble no- 
bodies intermixed; and the latter half to an hour of 
listening to the very fine organ and choral service, 
with a ramble, at an expenditure of sixpence to the 
guides, through the royal chapels and the tombs of 
the Kings. The objects of most marked interest in 
the Abbey are the noble building itself, with its 
wonderful aisles, arches and forests of noble columns; 
the tombs of Shakspeare, Ben Jonson, Dry den and 
the other poets, in Poets' Corner; the splendid archi- 
tecture of Henry the Seventh's Chapel, stalls and 
banners of the Knights of the Bath, there, and mag- 
nificent tombs of the founder, of Queen Elizabeth, 
Mary Queen of Scots, etc. ; the golden-mosaicked 
old altar-tomb of Edward the Confessor, in the Chap- 
el of the same name, with the tombs of Edward the 
First, Henry the Fifth and other warrior-kings, the 
weapons carried by some of them, and the corona- 
tion-chairs in which every sovereign of England 
since William the Conqueror has been crowned, with 
the old Scottish Scone-stone (coronation-stone) set in 
the bottom of one of them. The tombs of Mrs. 
Nightingale, Fox, Pitt, the Duke of Argyle, and 



IN ENGLAND. 127 

hundreds of long-departed kings and nobles, will 
also command attention, so far as time may admit, 
from various causes certain to suggest themselves 
through the eyes, the memory, and the inevitable 
pamphlet-guide which every visitor mnst purchase 
at an outlay of sixpence. 

The Mouses of Parliament (Westminster Palace) 
may well supply the next object of interest, the 
splendid structure towering immediately over the 
Abbey. The Chambers of the Lords and Commons 
should both be seen, with the Queen's Throne in the 
former, and the paintings and fine bas-reliefs in some 
of the other rooms of the building — to all which, 
if unguided, direction can easily be procured from 
the attendants and policemen on duty. If Parlia- 
ment is in session, the use of" a small douceur to at- 
tendants, or the influence of the Legation, will almost 
always secure admission to the Commons: to the 
Lords the access is more difficult, though even that 
can generally be managed in the same way. Before 
quitting the building, a look should be taken through 
Westminster Hall, now an immense empty space, but 
in which so many of the great criminal trials, from 
Charles the First and Strafford to Warren Hastings, 
have taken place. Half a day is quite sufficient for 
the Parliament Houses and Hall, except when a par- 
liamentary session is to be attended. 

The Tower of London is the next object of in- 
terest, if it does not take precedence of the last-men- 
tioned. It can be reached either by cab or one of 
the small steamers on the Thames ; and half-a-day 
will well suffice to visit it. It stands at the Thames 



128 SHOET-TRIP GUIDE. 

side, near London Bridge ; and visitors are admitted 
by tickets purchased at a ticket-office without, and 
accompanied through (as well as watched) by one of 
the Queen's yeomen (called " beef-eaters," originally 
heaufetiers), in the costume of the time of Henry the 
Eighth. Th'e leading attractions in this wonderful 
cluster of fortifications are to be found in the Trai- 
tors' Gate, seen on entering, through which the ac- 
cused used to be taken in from boats on the river ; 
the window of the Bloody Tower (seen from with- 
out), just within which the two princes are said to 
have been smothered by order of Richard the Third ; 
the Horse Armory (in the White Tower), in which 
effigies of half the dead sovereigns ride on horseback 
in full armor ; Queen Elizabeth's Armory, in the same 
tower, where Sir Walter Raleigh was so long con- 
fined, and where the fatal axe and block are yet to 
be seen, by and on which fell so many royal and no- 
ble heads ; the Jewel Tower, where the regalia of 
England, crown, sceptre, sword, etc., are, shown in an 
iron cage ; the Beauchamp Tower, where so many 
noble captives languished away their lives ; the tre- 
mendous collection of ancient and modern arms and 
armor, etc. The Tower represents more than eight 
hundred years of English history, and not even Lon- 
don has a more powerful attraction to the intelligent 
traveller. 

St. PauVs Churoh, the Royal Exchange, Mansion 
House, Bank of England, and Guildhall, may all be 
included within a single half-day's visit, by cab, with 
propriety. St. Paul's is simply the noblest and grand- 
est church-pile on earth, except St. Peter's at Rome. 



IN ENGLAND. 129 

It is a wonderful sight, to stand within the dome 
and look up four hundred feet to the angels that 
really seem to be flying in the blue sky. It has some 
fine monuments, and in the Crypt below are the rest- 
ing-places of both Wellington and Nelson, and th? 
funeral-car of the former. Guildhall is mainly inter- 
esting for the sake of the civic banqueting-hall which 
gives it name, at the end of which stand the famous 
giants, Gog and Magog, of London history. The 
other three buildings named need only be admired 
from without, except the traveller has special reasons 
and privileges for entering. 

The British Micsewn demands a full day, from 
even the most hurried. It is a noble building, con- 
taining the most wonderful and varied collection, 
from books to statues, medals, relics and objects of 
natural history, from all ages and all countries, ever 
gathered in any one place upon earth ; and no word in 
addition, here, could increase the force of such a 
statement or add to the knowledge of the visitor, 
who will be wise, however, to pay earliest attention 
to the great Reading-Room, the Layard stones from 
Assyria, the letters and autographs of eminent per- 
sons, the collection of seals, British antiquities, etc., 
if losing everything else for their sake. 

The Crystal Palace, at Sydenham, demands a 
day, and is reached by rail from Victoria Station. 
It rivals the British Museum in the wonderful variety 
of its collection ; and yet nothing within the build- 
ing can compare with the wonderful size and beauty 
of the erection of glass and iron itself— an exagger- 
ation, eight or ten times the size, of our lost New 



130 SHORT-TRIP GVIDE. 

York Palace. The grounds are only second to the 
building in beauty ; and scarcely a clay occurs, in 
summer, that some musical festival is not given in 
the afternoon, enabling the visitor to combine two 
enjoyments. 

Windsor Castle and Park are reached by rail, 
taking an open cab or fly from the Windsor Station, 
and a fair idea of them may be caught in half-a-day, 
rail included. The Castle is shown, whenever the 
Queen is not resident there, as she generally is not 
in summer. The Castle is exquisitely tasteful in 
location and grand grouping of towers; and the 
view from the Terrace is wondrously beautiful. The 
most notable rooms, within, are St. George's Chapel, 
where all the Knights of the Garter are installed, 
and most royal ceremonials take place ; St. George's 
Hall, devoted to the festivities of the order; the 
Waterloo Chamber, with portraits connected with 
the great battle, etc. It is almost needless to say 
that the acme of art and luxury is reached in these 
regal apartments, and that nowhere else can such 
glimpses be caught of the state surrounding an Eng- 
lish sovereign. The Castle overhangs the quite old 
town of Windsor (Windsor of the " Merry Wives ") ; 
the Home Park, in which Heme's Oak, of that play, 
stood until 1864, immediately adjoins it; and a drive 
of matchless beauty, three miles long and bordered 
with the noblest elms in England, leads away to the 
Great Park and the beautiful Lake, Virginia Water, 
which should be driven to, and the latter walked 
around, after leaving the Castle. 

Hampton Court, splendid old palace and park 



IN ENGLAND. 131 

(Bushy Park), once belonging to. Cardinal Wolsey, 
and then to Henry the Eighth, with fine old pic- 
tured-galleries, beautiful gardens, and the celebrat- 
ed Labyrinth of Fair Rosamond in the wooded 
grounds ; 

Kew Palace and Gardens (Royal), where the 
art of landscape-gardening, in England, is literally 
exhausted and the Palm House contains the finest 
collection of tropical trees in Europe ; and 

Michmond Mill, with its celebrated " Star and 
Garter " Hotel, unrivalled in its view over the 
Thames, and where people from all Europe go to eat 
festive dinners, — 

All these may be reached and hastily enjoyed 
in a cab-ride of half to three-quarters of a day, the 
three lying on the same route, along the Upper 
Thames, in passing over which, in addition, Twick- 
enham, Brentford and other rural villages will be 
skirted and a very pleasant acquaintance made with 
English semi-rural suburban scenery. 

The London Parks that specially demand atten- 
tion are Hyde Park, the Green Park, St. James's and 
Regent's. Hyde Park should be taken in the after- 
noon, after the hour of adjournment of Parliament 
(5 to 6), and ridden through in an open carriage, to 
meet the "notables." The others will be driven 
round in due course, a pause being made at the Re- 
gent's, to see the Zoological Gardens, with their 
fine collection of well-kept animals ; and in the cir- 
cuit of the Parks, any intelligent driver will point 
out and afford good views of 

JBucMngham Palace (the Queen's town residence), 

12 



132 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

St. James's, Carlton House, Marlborough House (the 
Prince of Wales's residence), etc., and many of the 
most interesting of 

The monuments, of which London has very many- 
notable ones, the most prominent being the Duke of 
York's Column, in Waterloo Place ; the equestrian 
statue of Charles I., at Charing Cross ; the Havelock 
and other monuments in Trafalgar Square, the " Lon- 
don Monument " on Fish Street Hill ; the eques- 
trian statue of Cceur de Lion, before the Parliament 
Houses ; etc., etc. 

A spare hour or two may well be spent at one of 
the most interesting old churches in London — the 
Old Temple Church, with its gardens, on Fleet 
Street, the church with many monuments of the 
Knights Templars, and the Temple buildings, redo- 
lent of law. Acquaintance will be made, at the 
same time, with the far-famed Temple Bar, which 
changes Fleet Street to the Strand. 

The Bridges of London, of which there are now no 
less than ten, all elegant and substantial structures, 
should receive an hour or two of daylight attention 
— as well as the railway travel passing over them, 
the odd aspects of the boats lying at the wharves, 
the miserable little steamers passing up and down 
the Thames, etc. ; and an hour at night, standing on 
any one of them and admiring the lines of lights cross- 
ing the dusky river on the others, would be by no 
means wasted. 

The Railway Stations, of which London has now 
several of the finest in the world (Charing Cross, 
Victoria, King's Cross, Euston, Bishopsgate, etc.), 



IN ENGLAND. 133 

will naturally be observed in arrivals and depar- 
tures ; and the railway system, as contrasted with our 
own, may be studied in the same connection with in- 
terest and advantage. 

The National Gallery (occupying the north of 
Trafalgar Square), and the South Kensington Muse- 
um, both supply interesting collections of pictures, 
which should be seen by art-lovers if time permits, 
though neither comes within the range of the first 
curiosities of London. 

The Thames Tunnel, crossing beneath the river 
from the Middlesex to the Surrey side, is a well- 
enough thing to " do," for those who " wish to say 
that they have been there," and who do not mind 
going down into unpleasant and doleful places to be 
able to make that boast — as Tom Sheridan begrimed 
himself by going down into the coal-pit. It is a 
costly humbug and failure, however. 

The Underground Hallways (" Metropolitan ") 
of London are features, and at least one ride should 
be taken on them by the visitor. To the thinking 
of the writer, one ride will be quite enough for each. 

Greenwich Hospital and Chelsea Hospital, the 
former the naval asylum of Great Britain, and the lat- 
ter the military, are interesting places to visit, to those 
who may happen to have a little more time than 
otherwise demanded, in and about London. Many 
mementoes of British heroes may be found in both 
(especially in Greenwich, where Kelson figures large- 
ly) ; and the old pensioners are themselves a study. 
Greenwich may be reached by rail, from Charing 
Cross, but even better by one of the boats plying 



134 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

clown the Thames ; while Chelsea lies at the south- 
west end of the city itself, and is within cab-distance. 

Kemal Green is the only cemetery at or near 
London, presenting any peculiar attractions ; and in 
its case they are found in the burial there of Thomas 
Hood, Sydney Smith, W. M. Thackeray, Allan Cun- 
ningham, the children of Sir Walter Scott, etc. 

Spurgeori 's Tabernacle, at the Elephant-and-Cas- 
tle, is one of the "lions" of London, and may be 
reached on Sundays, in half-an-hour's ride by cab or 
omnibus, from any of the great city centres. 

London Theatres are very numerous, and cele- 
brated for the splendor of their entertainments, 
though scarcely one of them but is dark, dingy and 
uncomfortable to those familiar with the handsome 
entrances and fine lights of American houses. Two 
or three evenings' patronage of them must of course 
be governed by the current performances ; but on the 
average the wisest selections will probably include 
the Haymarket, Adelphi or Olympic, and Princess's, 
at any one of which the time spent is not likely to 
be thrown away, especially with the opportunities 
which performances supply for studying the play- 
going habits and manners of the Londoners. 

Some of the most charming peeps into the rnral- 
ities of England, attainable anywhere, can be caught 
in brief rides out of London, by cab or rail — into Es- 
sex, Kent, Surrey, etc. ; and half-a-day spent in run- 
ning down to Waltham-Cross, in Essex, and Brox- 
bourne and the Rye-House, a few miles beyond, will 
not only show the very fine old Cross, the ruins of 
the Abbey, and the scene of the " Rye-House Plot," 



IN ENGLAND. 135 

but some of the very loveliest quiet rural scenery on 
earth, and many glimpses at the midland-English 
modes of farming, farm-laborers, agricultural uten- 
sils, etc. 

It is not to be supposed, either, that nearly all the 
objects of interest of the great metropolis have been 
alluded to, or that every short-trip traveller can pay 
attention to all mentioned. But, taking them in the. 
order of importance here observed, and using the re- 
markable facilities at hand for reaching them — cer- 
tain it is that in the six to eight days allowed in 
either of the tours contemplated, a very respectable 
knowledge of the British capital may be obtained by 
the intelligent and quick-witted tourist, however un- 
used to the details of travel. 

TO AISTD AT THE CUMBERLAND LAKES. 

The Windermere Lakes, or Cumberland Lakes, 
as they are oftener called, lie nearly on the extreme 
northwest of England, in the two counties of Cum- 
berland and Westmoreland. The Lakes are several 
in number, within a limited space, ranging from 
Windermere, Ulswater, Wastwater, etc., of some 
miles each in length, to mere little ponds or " tarns," 
like Grasmere and Thirlmere, and yet smaller, like 
Loughrigg Tarn, Elter Water, etc. They lie em- 
bosomed among mountains of singular beauty, with 
Skiddaw, Helvellyn and Scawfell among the highest, 
and nearly of the altitude of our Cattskill highest 
peaks ; and though it is not to be denied that, even 
more than those of Killarney, they look petty and 
bandbox-y to an American full of memories of Supe- 



136 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

rior and Erie, or even of Winnepesaukie and Lake 
George, so that the droll Illinoian who was about to 
drink ont of one of them hesitated for fear that he 
should drain it dry, — yet there are few spots on the 
earth, lovelier or more worthy of a little time spent 
in catching hurried glimpses. 

There are two modes in which the Lakes are likely 
'to he reached by American tourists, the point of ap- 
proach in both instances being the village of Win- 
dermere, in Cumberland, and the first object Lake 
Windermere, by far the largest of the whole cluster. 

Of these approaches, one is from Liverpool, by the 
London and Northwestern Railway, to Oxenholme, 
on the Lancaster and Carlisle branch of that road, 
and then by the Kendal and Windermere spur of 
the same road to Windermere. This route will be 
pursued, whether the visit is paid as merely an ex- 
cursion from Liverpool, to return, — or the temporary 
break is made at Oxenholme from the main line from 
Liverpool to Carlisle and Edinburgh. The princi- 
pal places passed through, thus running north, are 
Preston, Lancaster, Wigan and Kendal, all manu- 
facturing in appearance; and the country passed 
through shows some of the loveliest rural scenery 
of the west of England, beginning soft and hand- 
somely hedged in South Lancashire, roughening 
through jSTorth Lancashire, and becoming broken, 
hilly, and finally mountainous, a little after passing 
Lancaster and catching a view of Morecambe Bay, 
with Dudclon Mouth and Sands, stretching away to 
the Irish Sea. The ride seems like a somewhat long 
and weary one, from Liverpool ; but as the sun, in 



'IJST ENGLAND. 137 

this latitude, at midsummer, seems never to go 
down and it is daylight till midnight, there is no 
fear of losing the appearance of the mountains as 
they finally rise on the sight. 

The other ordinary route of reaching the Lakes 
is from the north, coming down from Edinburgh or 
Glasgow by Carlisle, making the change of trains at 
Oxenholnie (which a facetious American lady spells : 
"Ho-hex-he-hen-haitch-ho-hel-hem-he"), as in going 
north, and the near approach being consequently- 
made in the same manner. 

Windermere is a hamlet rather than a -village, 
lying on the east side, nearly at the edge, and almost 
at the centre, lengthwise, of Lake Windermere, with 
the rival town of Bowness a few miles below. Once 
reached, it seems too pretty and rural, and too an- 
tique-looking (though really not very old) for the 
railway approach that has been made ; and there and 
in the excursions from it which fill up the few hours 
that can be afforded by the hasty traveller, the most 
striking feature is found in the quiet grace of the 
rural scenery, the placid character of the waters, the 
beauty of the walled and hedged lanes, and the 
antique, peaceful loveliness of the whitewashed, 
thatched-roofed, lattice- windowed, ivy-grown and 
rose-climbed stone cottages. 

The excursions from Windermere and Bowness, 
through the district, planned in Miss Martineau's 
entertaining " Guide to the Lakes " (which the trav- 
eller may well buy and bring away with him, but 
should avoid reading and thus becoming confused, 
while on the spot) — these excursions, echoed and 



138 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

enlarged by hotel placards and insisted upon by 
guides and drivers, are well-nigh numberless. But 
alas ! human life is brief and hurried, and busy men 
cannot pass it all at Windermere. 

In arranging these short trips, the shortest time 
allowed at and about Windermere, is one day ; the 
longest, two; time for going and returning being- 
otherwise allowed. With only one day of stay, 
what seems the most sensible plan is to be content 
with what the local excursion placards set down as 
" Excursion No. 1 " — some twenty-two miles in ex- 
tent, by carriage, and comfortably made during 
somewhat less than the long day of the latitude, 
with time for stop (and possibly dinner) at Gras- 
mere. 

On this excursion the very loveliest scenery of 
the district is passed, as follows : By the east side 
of Windermere Lake, in full view of it, past the little 
hamlet of Lowood, with the Dove's ISTest in sight 
just beyond — a pleasant house in which Mrs. He- 
mans, the poetess, passed the last years of her life ; 
the hills of Wansfell Pike showing finely to the 
right and ahead, and Wray Castle prominent to the 
left, on the opposite shore of the Lake ; past Amble- 
side Water-Head ; and then bearing to the left and 
westward, past Loughrigg Tarn and up the steep 
Red Bank, with splendid views up the craggy- 
peaked Vale of Langdale ; over Red Bank, witli a 
lovely view down over Grasmere Lake, Village and 
Valley, with Helvellyn and the other mountains be- 
hind ; then down to 

Grasmere Church, with opportunity to view that 



IN ENGLAND. 139 

church, said to have been commenced before the Con- 
quest— the pew, font and monument of the poet 
Wordsworth within, and his grave and that of Hart- 
ley Coleridge without. Dinner, or at least a rest, at 
Grasmere ; then round by Rydal Water and the Vale 
of Rydal, past 

Mydal Mount, the old home of Wordsworth, and 
back through the handsome old village of Amble- 
side, past the residence of Miss Martineau, along the 
east side of the Lake again, back to Windermere. 

The tourist who has but the one day at Winder- 
mere will yet find time, after returning from the ride 
already described, to walk through the grounds of 
the late Professor Wilson (" Christopher North "), 
remembered and loved about Windermere as few 
men can hope to be in any neighborhood, — and to 
make the slight ascent of Orrest Head, and thus 
catch one of the loveliest of all the views over the 
Lake and the old village. The return from Winder- 
mere, whether going north or south, will of course 
be made by the same route as the approach — taking 
the railway back to Oxenholme and there making the 
main-line connection. 

With a second day at disposal, and the first spent 
as before advised, it will be policy to go down yet 
the same evening to Bowness, by boat or carriage, 
to be ready for the very different tour of the next 
morning, which has its proper commencement there. 

The event of the second day will be a visit to 
Furness Abbey, one of the most interesting old ru- 
ins in the West, to make which the route will be to 
Xewby Bridge (over the river Severn, at the ex- 



140 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

treme south end of Lake Windermere), — through 
scenery less wild than that of the previous day, and 
passing Burnside, Ferney Green and other pleasant 
rural hamlets before reaching the Bridge. From 
Newby Bridge, by carriage, eight miles to the pleas- 
ant little town of Ulverston ; and from Ulverston 
either by rail or carriage, only half-a-dozen addi- 
tional miles, to 

Furness Abbey (originally "Furnesse," Norman 
French), said to have been founded in 1127, by King 
Stephen, and especially favored by that king and his 
queen, Maude, effigies of whose heads are to be seen 
near one of the western windows. The Abbots of 
Furness (Bernardins) are alleged to have ruled over 
something like a kingdom ; and the massive charac- 
ter of the yet well-preserved ruins well attests the 
size, splendor and stability of the building in its 
days of religious occupancy. Some of the clustered 
columns, many of the fine Gothic windows and gate- 
ways yet remain, and the grounds (once embracing 
nearly seventy acres) have interesting remains of 
fish-ponds, granaries, and many of the other conveni- 
ences of the " lordly beggars " who once held it. 

From Furness there is no occasion of returning to 
either Windermere or Bowness, to leave the Lake 
country. Returning to Ulverston, the rail may be 
taken for the main-line at Carnforth Station, whether 
for going north or south ; and for going north alone, 
and with a fancy for much sea-view from carriage- 
windows, the rail may be taken at Furness, by the 
Furness and Whitehaven and Maryport and Carlisle 
roads, around the coast by Whitehaven, Maryport, 



IN ENGLAND. 141 

etc., across to Carlisle on the Edinburgh or Glasgow 
route. 

TO AND AT THE SHAKSPEAEE NEIGHBORHOODS OP 
WARWICKSHIRE. 

These favored and attractive districts lie nearly 
equidistant from Liverpool and London, and not • 
more than three hours by rail from either. To reach 
them, from London, the London and Northwestern 
road should be taken to Rugby; then the branch 
line to Leamington ; then carriage from Leamington 
to Stratford-on-Avon ; then rail (or carriage) from 
Stratford to Warwick ; then carriage (certainly) 
from Warwick to Kenil worth, and Coventry; then 
rail from Coventry to Birmingham and the main-line 
for either a return to London or the routes northward 
to Sheffield, northwestward to Liverpool, or west- 
ward to Shrewsbury. Such a disposition of route 
and conveyance will give infinite variety and permit 
the favorable (even if hurried) seeing of one of the 
loveliest counties of England. 

The larger proportion of Americans, however, 
who visit the Shakspeare neighborhoods at all, will 
be likely to do so on their way down from Liverpool 
to London ; and it is from that point of view that 
the foregoing succession will be reversed and the 
principal points of interest hurriedly indicated of 
what is unquestionably one of the most fascinating 
and indispensable short routes on the globe. 

The route by the London and Northwestern, from 
Liverpool to Birmingham, passes by Crewe and Staf- 
ford, as if on the way to London. Trains are changed 



142 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

at Stafford for Wolverhampton and Birmingham. 
The smooth scenery of Cheshire, changing to the 
rougher character of Staffordshire, affords infinite va- 
riety in landscape ; and almost from the moment of 
entering Staffordshire the number of furnace- chim- 
neys becomes so great that they stupefy wonder as 
well as excite it. In the neighborhood of Wolver- 
hampton the heart of the iron-country is reached ; 
and here the wilderness of chimneys, the pack of 
blazing and smoking furnaces, and the torn-up and 
mangled character of the ground, yet worse disfig- 
ured by the heaps of refuse ore, combine to produce 
an impression very little else than infernal. In the 
very midst of all this, embowered in extensive woods, 
on a hill, stand the noble ruins of Dudley Castle 
(burned some years since) ; and the view from the 
castle ruins at midnight, over mile upon mile of 
country apparently all belching flames, is said to be 
magnificent beyond description, and at the same time 
infernal without qualification. 

Wolverhampton itself is chimneys, coal-smoke, 
iron-dust and grime — iron, and the manufacture of 
iron, everywhere. It offers no inducements for 
stoppage, to the ordinary traveller. Nor is there 
much of additional interest in the scenery, until 
reaching 

Birmingham, the spot where iron, and brass, and 
all other metals are kept for sale, in a showy' form 
of hardware, and the very name of which has been 
corrupted into " Brummagem " as a synonym for all 
that is plated, pinchbeck and bogus. It has very 
few attractions, as a town, outside of the shops and 



. . IN ENGLAND. ' 143 

shop-windows, the Town Hall and Corn Exchange 
being really the only two handsome buildings. All 
the inhabitants ignore the sidewalks and walk in the 
middle of the street ; and umbrellas are in demand, 
as it generally rains, whatever may be the state of 
the weather elsewhere. 

The ride by rail is only a few miles, through lovely 
shaded Warwickshire scenery, from Birmingham to 

Coventry, famous both in history and romance, 
and especially so in poetry ; and rivalling if not sur- 
passing even Chester in the beautiful antiquity of 
some of its buildings. The story of the Lady Godi- 
va, said to have ridden naked on horseback through 
the town, many centuries ago, to induce her hus- 
band, Earl Leofric, to take the heavy taxes off from 
the inhabitants, has been for ages commemorated by 
processions embodying that alleged event ; and both 
Leigh Hunt and Tennyson have embalmed the inci- 
dent in poetry, that of the latter being most familiar 
to American readers. 

The approach to Coventry by the railway is very 
beautiful. The " bridge " on which Tennyson de- 
scribes himself to have been " hanging " (lounging) 
when he " watched the three tall spires " and devised 
the poem, is very near the railway station, over a 
mere gully ; and from it the three spires, all looking 
nearly alike and very sharp, seem to be set almost in a 
triangle. All three of the churches are worth visit- 
ing, but especially 

St. MichaeVS) by far the oldest, and interesting 
■without and within, from the marks of extreme age 
exhibited ; and 

13 



144 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

St. Mary'' 8 Sail, immediately adjoining, shows 
very finely the effect of many centuries on both wood 
and stone. 

The Old Souses of Coventry, many of them of 
wood-and-plaster, the upper stories projecting over 
until they almost touch across the narrow and 
winding streets, are objects of great interest — among 
the finest in Europe ; and everything about the old 
town is odd and picturesque, not forgetting its pretty 
girls. 

Peeping Tom, one of the " lions" of Coventry, is 
a painted wooden figure of life-size, looking out of 
an open upper window not far from St. Michael's, in 
commemoration of the one villanous tailor who would 
look out to see Lady Godiva when she rode, and 
who was stricken blind for that meanness. The figure 
is said to be at least three or four hundred years old, 
and no one should leave Coventry without seeing it. 

Some of the finest fruits and flowers in England 
are to be found at and about Coventry, and indeed 
all over Warwickshire, at midsummer. 

A " fly " or carriage (open, if the weather is fine) 
should be taken at Coventry, for Kenilworth and 
"Warwick, as no other mode of transit will show the 
lovely " Heart of Warwickshire " to such advantage. 
The road toward Kenilworth is wonderfully bor- 
dered and shaded with fine elms, passing through 
the property of Lord Leigh, fine farms and some 
charming very old cottages, clusters of cottages, and 
rural hamlets, until reaching 

Kenilworth Castle and village — the latter very 
quiet and antiquated-looking, with plentiful shade 



IN ENGLAND. 145 

and cottages humble but picturesque ; and the for- 
mer one of the most interesting mediaeval relics in 
England. It is said to have been founded by one of 
the Clintons, ancestors of the present Earls of Lin- 
coln, in the time of Henry I. (about 1110), and was 
afterwards in the possession of Simon de Montfort, 
the great rebel Earl of Leicester, and of John of 
Gaunt. But it derives its chief- celebrity from hav- 
ing been the property and residence of another Earl 
of Leicester, Robert Dudley, Queen Elizabeth's fa- 
vorite of that name, and his having entertained the 
Virgin Queen there, with more than royal state — as 
commemorated in Sir Walter^ Scott's novel of " Ken- 
ilworth." Though entirely in. ruins, the pile is still 
noble in both extent and marks? of original architec- 
ture, some of the splendid foliated windows, the 
stairways and part of the arches of the banqueting- 
hall yet remaining, — while the' all-covering ivy has 
made the desolation doubly beautiful; the gardens 
yet retain a wonderful variety'- -.of flowers, and the 
great lawn and tilt-yard can easily be traced by those 
who have any idea of the construction of ancient 
castles and their grounds. 

Half-an-hour's ride from Kenilworth, still by car- 
riage, an outer, and if desired an inner view, can 
be caught, by turning a little off from the road to 
the left, of 

Guy's Cliff Mill, a very old stone structure stand- 
ing beside the Avon, said to be as old as the Nor- 
man Conquest, and of 

Guy's Cliff (Castle), celebrated as the residence, 
many centuries ago, of the famous and unfortunate 



146 SHQBT-TRIP GUIDE. 



X 



champion, Guy o#Warw;ick, whose cave in the solid 
rock, well also in the vpck, bed hollowed from a log, 
and other relics, are still; shown. No better oppor- 
tunity can be found for surveying one of the coun- 
try houses of the old Mobility, than by going through 
Guy's Cliff, always open to visitors when the owner 
(Lord Charles Percy) is absent with his family. The 
Chapel (very old) arfkl the caves in the rocks, once 
occupied by theymonks^who founded the pile, may 
also be seen to .a^vaniao;e. 

A few miles farther, still by carriage, and the end 
of the most beautifub,o^ rides is reached, in 

Warwick, a very/pld. town, displaying many of 
the same characteristics as Coventry, with the bear- 
and-ragged-staff of tfie Warwick family conspicuous 
on the public houses^and^the most 'prominent build- 
ings are the very old o*ne called-" Leicester's Hospi- 
tal," peculiarly interesting to Americans from the 
A r isit paid to it arM charmingly described by Haw- 
thorne, and the ClryA*ch of St. 'Mary's with its many 
fine antique monuments. 

Warwick Castle, standing on a rocky eminence 
overlooking the town and at the side of the Avon, 
is a massive pile of great beauty, yet in repair and 
resided in by the Earl of Warwick. The finest view, 
and one immortalized in many paintings, can. be 
caught from the old bridge over the Avon, and it is 
one never to be forgotten. Access may be had to 
the Castle at certain hours (before 10 a. m., when 
the Earl is at home) ; and within may be seen the 
celebrated " Warwick Vase," splendid armor and rel- 
ics in the Armory, etc. 



• IN" ENGLAND. 147 

At Warwick rail may be taken, for a very brief 
ride through lovely scenery, to 

Steatfoed-on-Avois", the home and burial-place 
of Shakspeare, and the pilgrimage of more of the wor- 
shippers of genius than possibly any other single 
spot on the globe. A quiet, lazy old town, with the 
Avon flowing gently through it, and the whole at- 
mosphere seeming that of centuries ago. At Strat- 
ford, unlike other places, the first object of interest 
is found in a hotel, 

The lied Horse, made famous to Americans by 
Washington Irving in his " Sketch Book," and almost 
as distinguished, now, as the old home of the poet. 
From the Red Horse it is but a few minutes, on foot> 
to , 

Shakspeare 's Birth-Place, an humble old timber- 
and-plaster building, partially restored and well pre- 
served, on Henley Street, so well known as to all its 
characteristics that nothing more need be said than 
that the birth-room is found on the second floor, 
front, with its window covered with inscriptions, 
like the walls ; that there is a Shakspeare Museum 
attached, in the more modern part of the building ; 
and that the house is courteously shown as well as 
carefully kept by Mrs. and Miss Ashwin, the latter 
deservedly complimented by Hawthorne in his " Old 
Home." The same walk may be easily extended to 
the 

Church of the Holy Trinity, a handsome half- 
modern building standing amid fine elms at the 
Avon side, and within which Shakspeare's tomb and 
monument, and the tombs of his family, are shown in 



148 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the chancel ; the record of his birth and death in a 
very old parchment-bound book, in the vestry ; the 
font in which he was baptized (if at all), in the 
nave, etc. The Grammar School, New Place, the 
bridges over the Avon, etc., should also be included 
in the walk, the whole not necessarily occupying 
more than two or three hours. One of the open car- 
riages, or " flys," for which Stratford is not a little 
famous, may profitably be employed for a two or 
three miles ride across the edge of the lovely Vale of 
Evesham, coming round by 

Anne Hathaway 's Cottage, at the very old and tum- 
ble-down but attractive-looking little hamlet of Shot- 
tery, where the dramatist courted and married his 
wife, and where, apart, from those associations, a 
charming antique cottage and many interesting rel- 
ics are shown. The fly should be dismissed at Shot- 
tery, in fine weather, and the way made back to 
Stratford on foot, across the fields, by what has been 
known ever since his day as " Shakspeare's Court- 
ing-path." 

Stratford should be left by carriage (fine weather 
again understood, and likely to be found in June, 
best month in England), for the twelve or fifteen 
miles to Leamington. The scenery is somewhat tame, 
but softly beautiful throughout. At three or four 
miles from Stratford will be skirted the grounds of 

Charlecote Hall and Park, alleged to be the place 
of Shakspeare's early deer-stealing (in a different 
way from that at Shottery) and of his arraignment 
for the offence. The Park is magnificent, with its 
massive old oaks, fine sward, and herds of deer— 



m EFGLAXD. 149 

really among the finest belonging to less than royalty 
in the kingdom ; and Charlecote Hall, imposing with- 
out, offers, within, to the few favored visitors (it is 
not commonly shown) even more of charm, in splen- 
did rooms, fine pictures, many antiquities, and one 
set of ebony-and-ivory furniture, presented to the 
Earl of Leicester by Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth, 
matchless in rarity and value. 

Ten or a dozen miles beyond Charlecote, with a 
few pleasant little hamlets passed, presents the end 
of the brief but charming Warwickshire pilgrimage, 
in 

Leamington, one of the Saratogas or Ballstonsof 
England — handsomely situated on the little river 
Learn — clean and a little too dainty-looking, with 
fine grounds and walks and a weakness for " Pa- 
rades " and "Villas." It is well worthy of an hour 
or two of stroll, and a little of the Spa-water should 
be drunk, to see if it is any worse than that of the 
American Spas, after which 

Rail for the brief ride from Leamington to Ruo*- 
by, one of the three great stations on the Liverpool 
and London road, where Dickens's "Mugby Junc- 
tion " may be seen by peeping into the refreshment- 
rooms, and whence the way will be direct to the 
British capital if the tourist wishes to go southward. 

MANCHESTER AND SHEFFIELD. 

Neither of these towns, the one the head of cotton- 
manufacturing in Great Britain, and the other sup- 
plying the same place to steel and cutlery- work of 



150 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

perhaps the -whole world — is reckoned as coming with- 
in the short-trips previously arranged. But those 
who may have even a day more of time on their 
hands at Liverpool, than originally contemplated, or 
who may choose to neglect something else for them, 
can see both, hurriedly, within that space. 

Manchester lies only about thirty miles east of 
Liverpool, and can be reached in an hour, by rail. 
It lies on the Irwell, a small branch of the Mersey, 
has nearly half-a-million of inhabitants (second or 
third in the kingdom) ; has some handsome bridges 
connecting it with Salford (opposite) ; the Cathedral 
Church of St. Mary's, old and with fine monuments ; 
the Exchange, Town-Hall, etc., all worthy of notice ; 
but of course the prime motive of visit is to see 

The Cotton-Mills, wonderful in their number and 
extent, and the perfection of their machinery, and 
supplying more than half the cotton-goods used in 
the world. Permission to go through them is attain- 
able through introduction to any of the managers, 
easily obtained at Liverpool by those who have any 
commercial, shipping or personal acquaintance there. 

Sheffield lies some fifty miles beyond Manches- 
ter, still eastward, and is reached by the M. and S. 
Railway from the latter place, in one-and-a-half 
hours. It has not much more than one-quarter the 
size and population of Manchester ; the prevailing 
furnace-smoke makes it dingy and dusky ; and there 
are few public buildings of prominence. The attrac- 
tion nearly all lies in the immense 

Steel and Cutlery Manufactories, models of their 
class and unequalled in size and costly machinery. 



: IN ENGLAND. 151 

Admission liable to the same conditions before noted 
with reference to Manchester. 

PROMINENT ENGLISH WATERING-PLACES. 

The English watering-places are very numerous, 
and the short-trip tourist may manage to visit one 
or more of them, marine and inland. A brief note 
of several of the most prominent will be made, with 
directions for reaching, as off-shoots from other routes, 
and hints of their several characteristics. 

Cheltenham, the most fashionable of the Spa- 
Springs, lies about thirty miles due south from Bir- 
mingham and may be most conveniently reached by 
rail from thence, except by those who are going far- 
ther south to Bristol or Plymouth, who will necessa- 
rily pass through it. Or, it may be taken on the way 
from Liverpool to London, by Birmingham; from 
Cheltenham to Bristol, and thence by Great West- 
ern Railway direct to London. Or from Chelten- 
ham across to 

Oxford, the great seat of learning, with its wil- 
derness of Colleges and fine grounds, and thence to 
London. 

The attractions of Cheltenham are very like those 
of Saratoga, though with Greater asre and finish. 
Beautiful grounds and parades, costly hotels and in- 
numerable boarding-houses, spring-houses and all the 
accompaniments of pleasure-seeking, make it singu- 
larly-pleasant and fashionably-popular. 

Bath, formerly the superior of Cheltenham in 
Spa-visiting, but now only its rival, is a handsome old 
town lying on the Avon, ten miles from Bristol (on 



152 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the G. W. Railway towards London); and has all 
the characteristics spoken of with reference to Chel- 
tenham, with, yet more pretentious buildings, some 
ridiculously-pleasant memories of the Prince Regent, 
Beau ISTash, and other prominent fops, and a fine old 
Abbey Church, with monuments. 

Leamington, the third of the Spas in importance, 
has already been spoken of and the mode of approach 
indicated, in the just-closed account of the Shak- 
speare neighborhoods of Warwickshire. - 

Of the sea-shore watering-places the most fashion- 
able, at the present writing, is 

Scarborough, on the northeast coast, about 
forty miles northeast from York, and reached by 
rail from that city. It has a fine bold coast, splen- 
did bathing, fine hotels, and now attracts much of 
the best society. Next to it (formerly far before it), 
comes 

Brighton, for many years the sea-bathing-place 
par excellence, of the British Islands. It lies on the 
British Channel, about forty miles east from South- 
ampton, or from the eastern point of the Isle of Wight 
— about fifty miles from London, whence it is reached 
in two hours by the London, Brighton and South- 
Coast Railway. It has a regular population of some 
80,000, very often increased by visitors, in Septem- 
ber and October, to 100,000. It has many fine build- 
ings — among others the Royal Pavilion, built by 
George IV. when Prince Regent; and the Marine 
Wall, Chain Pier and promenade are all worthy of 
special notice, while probably at no place in Great 
Britain can the mixed-society and customs of a water- 



- m ENGLAND. 153 

ing place be better observed. Steamer can be tak- 
en from Brighton to Dieppe (France) if desirable. 

The Isle oe Wight and the coasts opposite form 
a collective summer resort for many thousands ; 
while the Queen's residence on the island (Osborne 
House), the abode there of many other distinguished 
people, Carisbrooke Castle (in which Charles I. was 
confined), and the neighborhood of the Portsmouth 
and Gosport great navy-yards and naval depots — 
make this section a very interesting one to those pos- 
sessed of more spare time than the supposed short- 
trip tourist. (Southampton, Portsmouth, the Isle of 
Wight, etc., are reached in some three hours by rail- 
way from London, from which they lie southwest.) 

Rhyl and Llandudno are two Welsh watering- 
places of prominence, both lying on the coast, not 
far from Liverpool and easily reached by boat thence. 
Both give fine views of the Welsh coast and moun- 
tains; Llandudno is now very fashionable; and 
Rhyl is famous for the donkey-rides which it supplies 
mountainward. 

Maegate, Ramsgate and Hastings supply sea- 
bathing very extensively to Londoners, and especial- 
ly to the middle classes at an earlier period of the 
summer than witnesses the filling up of the more 
fashionable resorts. Margate lies at the south lip of 
the Thames, some seventy miles from London, east, 
and just within the point known as the North Fore- 
land ; while Ramsgate lies a few miles southward, 
beyond the point and on the open channel. Both 
are reached by the Southeastern Railway from Lon- 
don, in some four hours ; and both have certain curi- 



154 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

osities in the way of piers, promenades, etc., deserv- 
ing attention ; while at Ramsgate particularly, and 
at Margate in only a less degree, the system of 
bathing by means of bathing-machines, or covered 
carts (rendered necessary by the great rise and fall 
of tide), can be studied to excellent advantage. 

Hastings (one of the Cinque Ports) on the Chan- 
nel, some twenty miles east of Brighton, is also a 
place of considerable resort, to be reached by either 
the Southeastern or the London, Brighton and South- 
Coast Railways. 

There are a variety of other and minor watering- 
places, marine and inland, but the most notable have 
here been indicated ; and the hurried tourist will 
easily be able to select any lying nearest to his in- 
tended route and involving the least extra-expendi- 
ture of time and money. 

ENGLAND TO SCOTLAND. 

There are three principal approaches to Scotland, 
for American tourists, and their routes* are generally 
determined by those modes of approach. 

The first is by steamer direct to Glasgow (as 
treated of in the chapter on " Look-outs and Land- 
makings"), — or by coast-steamer from Liverpool to 
Glasgow, on the west, or London to Edinburgh, on 
the east. 

The two great remaining approaches are both by 
railway — from Liverpool to Glasgow, to go eastward 
through the Highlands to Edinburgh — and London 
to Edinburgh, to go westward through the High- 
lands to Glasgow. 



IN ENGLAND. 155 

Liverpool to Glasgow. 

By the first, the London and Northwestern road 
is taken at Liverpool (as in going to the Cumberland 
Lakes), passing through Lancaster, Preston, Kendal, 
etc., as by that route, to 

Carlisle, on the Border, situated on the bank of 
the river Ef-en, which runs into the near Solway 
Frith. It has some manufactories, but is much more 
interesting for its associations with border- warfare, 
and for the remains of the old Castle, said to have 
been built as a defence against the Scots, by William 
Rufus. 

The head of the Solway Frith is crossed a few miles 
beyond Carlisle, and the course then continues north- 
ward and westward, through somewhat rugged and 
fine scenery, without passing through any towns of 
special importance, though here and there with a re- 
minder of history — to Glasgow. Time from Liver- 
pool to Glasgow, nine to ten hours. 

London to Mdinhurgh. 

Those who go up from Liverj>ool to Glasgow, can 
most properly return from Edinburgh to London, the 
eastern as well as the western part of the kingdom 
being thus traversed. For such as do so, the route 
following will only need to be precisely reversed in 
its details. 

From London to Edinburgh, the Great Northern 
Railway is taken — actual running time about twelve 
to fifteen hours. The first stopping-place of the ex- 
press-trains is at 

14 



156 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Peterhorougli, a small old town, with no particu- 
lar interest except the remains of a fine old Cathedral 
in which Catharine of Arragon (Queen of Henry 
VIII.) and Mary Queen of Scots (originally) were 
buried. 

The next place of importance is 

Newark (from which the New Jersey town took 
its name), a small town, with, again, little of interest 
except an old castle, now in ruins, said to have been 
occupied by King John at the time of his death. 
The next is 

Doncaster, celebrated for its races, and not of the 
least importance except when they are in progress 
(during the early recess of Parliament — September). 
Then " 

Voek, a fine old city, on the Ouse, where Constan- 
tine the-Great is alleged to have been born, some 
1600 years ago, and famous in all English history. 
Even the most hurried should lie over one train, 
here, to see the magnificent 

York Minster, or Cathedral, the second largest 
in England, and considered one of the finest in the 
world — begun in the seventh century, though prin- 
cipally built in the thirteenth and fourteenth. The 
old walls of the city are yet standing, and supply a 
charming promenade ; while there are some public 
buildings well worthy of attention. A drive out of 
the town, about five miles westward, will supply an 
interesting view of 

Marston Moor (Long Marston), where Charles I. 
suffered perhaps his worst defeat from the Parlia- 
mentary armies. 



• IN ENGLAND. 157 

Beyond York, the ride is unbroken, until reach- 
ing 

Newcastle-upon-Tyne, the celebrated centre of the 
English coal-trade, even a few minutes' pause at which 
shows that it is composed of coal, coal-dust, coal- 
vans, and other indications of the collieries. Shields, 
the great coal-port, lies a few miles eastward, at the 
mouth of the Tyne. 

Beyond Newcastle the tourist crosses the histori- 
cal Northumberland, the border-shire, celebrated in 
all the troubles with the Scots. If time does not 
press too closely, by changing from the express to a 
local train at Newcastle, a visit may be paid to 

Alnioick Castle, lying only two or three miles 
westward from the main line, with a branch-road 
leading thither. Alnwick, the old home of the 
Percies, Earls and Dukes of Northumberland, is one 
of the finest ruins in Great Britain ; and it is pecu- 
liarly interesting to Americans, from the celebrity 
given to it by Halleck in that most charming of po- 
ems bearing the same name. 

Taking the main-line again at little Alnwick Sta- 
tion, the road runs thenceforth very near to the bor- 
der of the German Ocean on the right, with frequent 
views of that historical ocean, over which the Danes 
came to subjugate Britain — all the way to 

IS erwiclt-on- Tweed, at which fine old town the 
Tweed is crossed by a bridge and the scenery seems 
to roughen and become more picturesque from the 
very moment of touching the Scottish soil. 

From Berwick the run occupies some two hours, 
through the mountain and coast scenery made im- 



158 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

mortal by Scott in the " Bride of Lainmermoor," 
over Haddingtonshire and the Lothians, with a brief 
stop at the fine old town of Dunbar, — till the Frith 
of Forth opens ahead and to the right, and the tour- 
ist is disembarked at Edinburgh, 



XL 

CROSSING THE BRITISH CHANNEL. 

Nearly a dozen routes of transit present them- 
selves, between England and France, and especially 
between the two great cities, London and Paris. 
But three special routes seem to possess advantages 
over all others, and to these the hurried tourist may 
well confine himself. 

Those three are : 

1st. Steamer between Dover, England, and Ca- 
lais, France. Distance about twenty-four miles, and 
time one and a half to two hours. From London by 
Southeastern Railway. 

2d. Steamer between Folkestone, England, and 
Boulogne-sur-Mer, France. Distance about twenty- 
eight miles, and time one and three-quarters to two 
and one-quarter hours. From London by South- 
eastern Railway. 

3d. Steamer between Newhaven, England, and 
Dieppe, France. Distance sixty-five to seventy miles, 
and time six to eight hours. From London by Lon- 
don, Brighton and South-Coast Railway. 

By all these routes the passage is more or less 
terrible, except in unusually calm weather; and 
there is really very little difference between them, 
except as to the time consumed and the lines with 
which they connect. The boats on all of them are 



160 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

staunch, safe and uncomfortable — meet with few 
accidents, but generally land their passengers more 
dead than alive, from sea-sickness. 

For going to France, with at all decent weather, 
and for the first time, the line by Newhaven and 
Dieppe may well be chosen, as it is to be supposed 
that the man (or' even the woman) who has endured 
ten days on the Atlantic can endure six to eight 
hours on the Channel, — and as by that route both 
Dieppe and Rouen, two of the handsomest old cities 
in France, can be hastily seen, while the way toward 
Paris will be taken by the French Chemin de Fer de 
V Quest (Western Railway), through a portion of 
Lower Normandy more exquisitely beautiful than 
almost any other strip of the same extent on the 
Continent. 

For the return to England, if to be made at all 
from France (as usual) the Chemin de Fer die Nbrd 
(Northern Railway) should be taken from Paris, as 
by that route another portion of Normandy will be 
passed through, with the fine old city of Amiens ; 
both Boulogne, on the French side, and Folkestone, 
on the English (termini of the other line) will be 
likewise passed through, though hastily ; and the 
voyager will enjoy the opportunity of noticing the 
old walls and gates of Calais, so celebrated in the 
long wars of the Henrys and Edwards, between 
England and France, and of marking the appearance, 
from the Channel, of Dover Cliffs, made doubly 
notable by Shakspeare (in "King Lear"), Dover 
Castle, and the " White Cliffs of Albion," generally, 
as seen at their highest. 



GROSSING THE BRITISH CHANNEL. 161 

The route by Boulogne and Folkestone is mean- 
while an excellent one, for either way, and the op- 
portunity which it affords of spending even an hour 
in Boulogne, so well known as the paradise of run- 
away English debtors, is not to be despised. For 
the reasons given, however, the two others may be 
held preferable, in the order named for the going 
and return trips. It should be added that the run 
from Paris to Boulogne, so far as it goes, is the same 
as that to Calais — the French Northern Railway 
(Chemin de Fer du JVbrd), and that by that, also, 
Amiens is passed through, with its memories of a 
treaty in which the United States of America were 
once largely interested. 



XII. 

SHOET TEIPS IN FKANCE. 
DIEPPE TO PARIS, BY ROUEST. 

Crossing the Channel from Newhaven, the first 
object of interest is to be found in the high piers, 
with narrow entrance and gaudily-gilded colossal 
crucifixes on them, of the very old French town of 

Dieppe, port at which the English kings were 
in the habit of landing in their wars with France, 
and to which Sir William Wallace, the hero of Scot- 
land, is said to have brought the pirate Longueville 
after capturing him off the harbor. Some hours can 
be profitably spent here, in viewing the odd French 
houses ; the old Chateau de Dieppe (Castle) on the 
hill to the west, said to have been founded by Char- 
lemagne ; the bathing-grounds, with their fine Etab- 
lissement des Bains (dancing and gambling house) ; 
the splendid hotels, with their handsome gardens 
and lawns; some of the narrow streets with very 
old houses; the confined dock-basins ; the handsome 
old churches of St. Jacques and St. Remi, etc. 

If time suffices, a ride of two or three miles, and 
return, will afford an excellent peep into mediaeval 
history, in the 

Castle of Arques, once owned and occupied by 
Henry V. of England, and near which he won the 



' IJST FRANCE. 163 

decisive battle of that name — now a splendid old 
ruin, with one of the grandest of the archways yet 
remaining. 

Away from Dieppe, the railway, as has been 
already said, crosses one of the loveliest lines of 
Lower Normandy, with willowed water-courses, pic- 
turesque' hills, valleys, chateaux and cottages, pass- 
ing; the chateau-dominated old town of Monville on 
the left, and striking the pleasant winding Seine but 
half-an-hour before stopping at 

Potted, after Paris, unquestionably the most in- 
teresting city in France, from historical associations, 
architecture, and beauty of location. It lies on the 
north bank of the Seine, with rolling hills westward ; 
has extensive cotton-manufactories stretching along 
the river ; and historically recalls (principally) Henry 
V., who besieged it for nearly a year — Joan of Arc, 
who was burned here — and the Regent Duke of Bed- 
ford who burned her. In architecture and relics it 
is even richer; for the Cathedral and the Abbey 
Church of St. Ouen dispute with Notre Dame, at 
Paris, the claim of being the most magnificent of 
churches, while the great stained-glass windows of 
St. Ouen certainly excel either, and the monuments 
of the Cathedral include those of Polio, first Duke 
of Normandy, Pichard Cceur de Lion, Prince Henry, 
and many others ; in the Place de la Pucelle is to be 
seen the spot where Joan of Arc was burned by the 
English ; in the Church of St. Gervais is remarked 
the spot where William the Conqueror died ; and in 
the Museum of Antiquities are to be found the heart 
of Cceur de Lion (what little remains of it) in a glass 



164 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

casket, charters signed by William before Hastings, 
etc. 

All these, and some of the finest old houses of 
Rouen, can be well enough seen in one day, though 
longer space could be well employed. So much 
" skims " the glory of the old city, at least, and the 
route to Paris may be resumed. 

There is not much of additional interest between 
the capital of Normandy (Rouen) and that of 
France. The scenery is tamer, though very pleasing 
in portions ; and only one town of importance is 
passed, after leaving Rouen, — Tourville, at only half- 
an-hour's distance. Nearly all interest, however, is 
concentrated on the pleasure in advance ; and indeed 
it is not certain that some tourists do not commence 
to look for the spires and monuments of the great 
city, from the very moment of leaving Dieppe. 

The run from Dieppe to Paris usually occupies 
about six hours; and the approach, as the course of 
the road would indicate, is from the northeast. The 
first object meeting the eye, coming near, is the Fort 
of Vailerien, one link of the immense and formidable 
chain of fortifications surrounding the city, by which 
it could be laid in ashes or put under contribution 
within two hours. This is seen to the right, before the 
city is fairly visible. Then come the handsome Heights 
of Montmartre, towering .over the city on the left, 
with their pleasant shade and suggestions of luxuri- 
ous residences. And then, as the next curve of the 
railway is rounded, the city itself heaves into view, 
with one colossal pile seeming to overtop it all, which 
the tourist scarcely needs to be told is the Arc 



• IN FRANCE. 165 

d'Etoile, or Arch of Triumph, of the Star, hereafter to 
be alluded to, and one of the mightiest and most 
imposing of all the monuments of Europe. 

Thereafter comes the necessity (easily supplied) 
of cab-hiring for destination, and the whirl, glitter 
and confusion of the nearest of all approaches to the 
stereotyped phrase, "Modern Babylon." But with 
this arrival comes the necessity of another paper. 

AT AND ABOUT PARIS. 

More guide-books, works of description, and 
would-be aids to the traveller, have been written 
about Paris than any other city on the globe — more, 
even, than about London, which is saying much. 
Most of them confuse the hurried reader by attempt- 
ing too much ; nearly all of them bewilder the hur- 
ried traveller, by supposing that he has four times 
the length of days or hours really at his disposal, 
and setting him at the impracticable. This error will 
not be reached in the present instance : all that will 
be attempted will be merely to indicate, in the brief- 
est manner, a few of the most notable of the notable 
things of the "world's capital" (as Frenchmen and 
Franco-phobians delight to call it), and some order 
of time and mode for seeing them to the best advan- 
tage. 

For a long stay, of course lodgings would be de- 
sirable ; for a few days, some hotel is by far prefer- 
able, and there is plenty of choice. If very deficient 
in French, unaccompanied, and able to meet the 
small additional expense — the tourist would do quite 
as well to take an English-and-French-speaking valet 



166 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

de place (obtainable at any hotel, by inquiring at the 
office) for the most important of his sight-seeings. 
With such a guide, cab-hire will be a little reduced, 
as different objects of interest may be visited with 
less expenditure of time and " leg-weariness," through 
the valet's knowledge of " cross-cuts," in the latter 
of which Paris even excels Boston. 

The valet de place out of the question, however, 
the cab recurs. The cab-system of Paris is very 
nearly or quite as excellent as that of London ; and 
a cab for one or two persons (sometimes for three) 
can be obtained at \\ to 2-J francs the course (any 
distance inside the fortifications), or 2 to 4 francs the 
hour, when many stoppages are to be made. The cab 
should accordingly be used freely, and the ex- 
pense will be nearly saved in boot-leather and quite 
in health and temper, especially as Paris is sultry in 
midsummer. 

(First Day.) — Devote half the day on foot, if 
accompanied or guided (distances being short), to 

The Seine (river) its Quays and Bridges. The first 
is very small 5 muddy, and historically interesting ; 
the second are very high, massive, and worth study 
for the sake of their cost, the charming walks and 
drives along them, the arrangements for getting down 
to the docks below, the baths along their sides, etc. ; 
and the third are very numerous, handsome and du- 
rable, spanning 'the river at all points in front of the 
city, as well as from the He de la Cite (City Island), 
and the He St. Louis, lying above it. The next half 
day, and in immediate connection, may well be de- 
voted to 



. IIT FRANCE. 167 

The Palace of the Tuileries (outside), the resi- 
dence of the Emperor; the scene of many historical 
events, including two attacks and captures by the 
populace, at the dethroning of Louis XVI. in 1793 
and Louis Philippe in 1848; and the exponent of 
more orders in architecture, and a better effect pro- 
duced by an indiscriminate jumble, than any one, 
not a madman, could have believed. Also to the 

Gardens of the Tuileries, extended and beauti- 
fullys-haded grounds lying immediately in front of 
the Palace, with statuary of rare merit, fountains, 
etc., supplying one of the favorite promenades to 
Parisians of all classes and ages, and especially to 
children with their nurses. Next to the 

Place de kc Concorde, connecting the gardens 
with the Champs Elysees. An open space, with splen 
did fountains and colossal statuary, and with the 
great red-granite Obelisk of Luxor in the midst, 
brought from Thebes in Egypt at immense expense, 
and standing on the very spot where during the 
early part of the Reign of Terror stood the guillo- 
tine on which perished Louis XVI., his sister, Marie 
Antoinette, and twenty-eight hundred others. Next 
into the 

Champs Elysees (Elysian Fields), adjoining the 
Place de la Concorde on the west, the great home 
pleasure-ground of Paris, covering some forty acres, 
bordering on the Seine and extending to the Arc 
d'Etoile at the extreme western point. Magnificently 
shaded ; laid out with walks ; cut through its whole 
length by the Avenue des Champs Elysees, through 
which all the aristocratic carriages drive, every after- 
15 



168 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

noon, going to or returning from the Bois de Bou- 
logne ; full of arrangements for out-of-door amuse- 
ments, and studded at eve"ry turn with cafes chan- 
tantes (singing coffee-houses), cafes for refreshment, 
etc. ; and with thousands of chairs, kept for cheap 
hire by the hour, in which the tourist can sit when 
tired and see the procession of fashion and oddity 
roll by. Before leaving the Champs, a glimpse should 
be caught of the Elysee Napoleon, an old palace, 
once the Elysee Bourbon, at the north side, where 
Napoleon signed his abdication, while the whole 
building has had an intimate connection with French 
history. Return towards the centre of the city, if 
boarding there, as supposed, by the 

Column in the Place Venddme, a sj^lendicl spirally- 
wreathed pillar, erected by Napoleon in honor of his 
victories, and covered with emblematic figures of his 
campaigns, as well as topped with a figure of the Em- 
peror. The day may properly be finished by a visit to 

The Madeleine, one of the handsomest churches in 
Paris or the world — pure Grecian, with surrounding 
of splendid columns, and statues in niches, outside; 
and with elaborate architecture, marvellously rich 
altars and altar-services, and some chefs dSceuvres in 
painting and sculpture, over the altars and employed 
as altar-pieces. At no other of the Parisian churches, 
either, can better views be caught of the uniforme/l 
and sworded vergers connected with the churches, 
who seem a cross between a police-officer and a ma- 
jor-general. The evening of this day may well be 
spent in catching a first glimpse by gaslight of some 
portions of 



• IN FRANCE. 169 

The Boulevards, very wide tree-bordered streets, 
commencing at the Madeleine on the west, and run- 
ning, with different names, across and around the 
principal portions of Paris, to the Place de la Bastille 
at the east. They are lined, throughout, with shops, 
brilliant with articles for sale ; with open cafes for 
refreshments within or on the side-walk; and no 
spectacle in the world is more brilliant than that 
presented on the Boulevards Italiens, des Capucines, 
Montmartre, etc., every evening from dusk till mid- 
night, all nations, dresses, languages, and characters 
mingling in splendid confusion and forming one of 
the most attractive features of Paris. 

(Second Day.) — This day a cab should be taken, 
by the hour, as the distances to be made are much 
greater. The first visit may well be paid to the out- 
side and inside of 

The Bourse, the great stock-exchange of Paris, 
France, and half Europe, a splendid colonnaded 
building, with a magnificent and very large gal- 
leried hall within, surrounded by the names of the 
chief cities of France, where stock operations are 
carried on. (If a spare hour should chance to allow, 
a second visit here, at noon or a little later, would 
be well repaid by hearing what Frenchmen on 
'Change can do in the way of gabbling and gesticu- 
lating.) From the Bourse to the 

Palais Royal, once a royal palace, as its name in- 
dicates, and still retaining the galleries and immense 
and beautiful gardens of that occupation, within its 
extensive quadrangle — but now the most extensive 
collection of shops and restaurants in the world (the 



170 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

hitter including the celebrated " Trois Freres Proven- 
caux," "Verys" and other well-known and costly 
habitats of luxury. Passing towards the He de la 
Cite, be sure to look out for and note, in passing, 
the 

Tour St. Jacques (Tower of St. James), a splen- 
did Gothic tower of great height and beauty ; the 
very old and odd-looking 

Church of St. Germain V Auxerrois, from which 
tolled out, from the bell still hanging (as is said), the 
tocsin for the awful Massacre of St. Bartholomew ; 
and to visit the 

Church of St. Hoc7i, on the still-standing steps of 
which took place one of the bloodiest fights of the 
Revolution (that of the 13th Vendemiaire) ; while 
the church has the distinction of giving the best 
music in Paris, of possessing much internal beauty 
and splendor, and of showing many fine pictures, 
among others a " St. Koch, Preaching," by Ary 
Scheffer, with the most wonderful of golden lights 
shed on it through the stained glass above. 

The Church of St. JSustache, where a common 
courtesan was once enthroned in the place of God, 
should also be seen ; and near it, the 

Holies Centrales, or Central Market of Paris, with 
its extent and peculiarities. So much done, it is well 
to cross to the 

lie de la Cite, noticing, on going over the bridge, 
the round, pointed-capped towers, studding the 
water's edge at the right side of the island, of 

Tlie Gonciergerie, the terrible prison in which 
Marie Antoinette was confined before her execution, 



IN FRANCE. 171 

and from which so many hundreds of victims went 
forth to the guillotine, during the Reign of Terror. 
The unfortunate Queen's room may still be seen, 
within, by those who have time to visit it ; and also 
on the upper end of the same island, for those who 
have both time and inclination, are the 

Palace of Justice, a line old building, with many 
historical reminiscences, and 

The Morgue, the celebrated dead-house in which 
the bodies of people " found drowned" are exhibited 
for identification. But the principal attraction to 
the He de la Cite is found in the magnificent 

Notre Dame, one of the architectural glories of 
Paris and the world — with two immense square tow- 
ers, wonderful architectural effects in the portals and 
whole elaborate front, and some of the finest Gothic 
arches in Europe in the vast interior. Notre Dame 
has, in addition, a wealth of stained-glass windows 
of rare size and excellence ; some splendid side-chap- 
els ; a magnificent High Altar, at which Napoleon 
and Josephine were crowned ; and the additional 
celebrity of being the spot round which (see the 
novel for explanations — published in English under 
the title of the " Hunchback of Notre Dame ") Vic- 
tor Hugo wove his great novel, "Notre Dame de 
Paris." It is, perhaps, the most impressive ecclesi- 
astical object in Paris, and scarcely excelled in Eu- 
rope in either grandeur or historical association. (At 
the door of Notre Dame is the place for making 
arrangements for carriage to Versailles — as there 
is a specialty of the master of those excursions 
always keeping in readiness for any clay and hav- 



172 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ing an agent there for that purpose. Inquire 'for 
Mons. Dulorin.) 

Crossing back to the north side of the Seine, from 
the He cle la Cite, a visit should at once he paid to 
the 

Hotel cle Ville (City Hall), standing on the river 
bank, opposite the island, and very pleasing in its an- 
tique architecture, at the same time that it possesses 
the very highest historical interest. A visit -should 
be paid to the inside of this great municipal build- 
ing, as many of its interior appointments are quite 
equal to those of any palace on the globe — fine pic- 
tures, statuary, costly hangings, etc. Immediately 
in front of it is the 

Place cle la Hotel de Ville, now merely an open 
space, but formerly the Place de Greve, where the 
great body of the executions by the guillotine took 
place during the Reign of Terror, and where it is 
estimated that not less than thirty thousand persons 
fell by that colossal " chopping-knife." It is almost 
impossible, even now, to look upon it without a 
shudder and a suspicion that the ground must still 
remain soaked with blood. 

From the Hotel de Ville the ride is a brief one, 
through the Faubourg St. Antoine — what is known 
as peculiarly the " dangerous quarter" of Paris, to 
the place where the Bastille stood and was destroyed. 
During this ride, a few moments may be well spent 
in stopping at some one of the numerous poor-look- 
ing wine-shops, for some excuse, to observe the places 
where the dangerous "Jacquerie" met at and before 
the Revolution — well described bv Dickens in his 



W FRANCE. 173 

"Tale of Two Cities." This section of Paris is very 
old and squalid-looking, and is not the place for 
night-rarnbles, however efficient the police. This 
brings us, however, to the 

Place cle la Pastille, the spot where stood the 
great fortress of oppression, where it w T as torn down 
with such threatening demonstrations in 1789, and 
where now stands the 

Column of July, a tall and very handsome fluted 
column, crowned with a figure of Mercury, and 
erected in honor of those who fell in the street-fights 
of the Revolution of 1830, when Charles X. was 
driven from the throne. 

Beyond the Place de la Bastille, at no very great 
distance, the tourist passes between the two buildings 
of the great criminal prison of La Roquette, hand- 
somely built, like fortresses, and in the court-yard 
of which most of the executions by the guillotine, of 
the past years, have taken place. Beyond, very 
soon, all appearances indicate the approach to a 
great- cemetery, especially in the number of cheap 
and tawdry articles for the decoration of graves, kept 
for sale on either hand. Then comes the gateway of 

Pere la Chaise, the great cemetery of Paris, and 
renowned throughout the world for the vast number 
of its distinguished dead. As a cemetery, and com- 
pared with American grounds of the same character, 
it is a humbug and a swindle, having little or noth- 
ing of the beauty of either Greenwood, Mount 
Auburn or Laurel Hill, and not to be mentioned 
beside Glasnevin Cemetery, at Dublin. Carriages 
are not allowed to enter ; and half to three-quarters 



174 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

of an hour's walk is quite sufficient to observe its 
street-rows of square tombs, with streets between 
them ; its occasional spots of well-shaded beauty ; 
the miserable shabbiness of its poor-quarter (at the 
back), huddled together, with wooden crosses and 
cheap wreaths ; its little chapel on the top of the 
eminence, with altar and religious statues within, 
and a fine view of Paris from in front of it ; and the 
tombs of Marshal Ney and a few others, with the 
splendid chapel-tomb of Abelard and Heloise, one of 
the pilgrimages of the cemetery, lying not far from 
the lower right-hand corner, taking the point of view 
from the entrance. 

This round, with the direct drive back to the 
place of lodging, may well have filled the day pretty 
closely ; but there may still remain spirit and wish 
for an evening ride to the Champs Elysees, to see its 
night-beauty of lights and breadth of gayety, to sup 
at some one of its many cafes, and perhaps to spend 
an hour of the earlier evening at the 

Alcazar tfJEte, one of the most noted of the, open- 
air concert establishments, where good singing is a 
certainty, and a later hour, or two, at the 

Jardin 3fabiUe, an exquisitely-wooded and shrub- 
beried circle, flashing with lights and supplying 
dancing-music all the evening, lying on the Avenue 
Montaigne, at the Pond Point and in the immediate 
vicinity of the Avenue des Champs Elysees — where 
the gayer varieties of Parisian life may be witnessed 
by those so inclined, and where the cancan may be 
enjoyed in what the Parisians (and some of the 
Americans) consider its " purity." 



IN FRANCE. 175 

(Third Day.) — Cab again, for only a short dis- 
tance, to the 

Hotel Cluny, site of the old Roman Palais des 
Thernies, part of the walls of which yet remain, 
while the Hotel, itself contains a very interesting 
collection of antiquities (among other things the 
celebrated ivory-locJc, which "must be seen to be 
appreciated"), chapel where James IV. of Scotland 
was married, etc. Thence over the Seine, by any 
one of the numerous bridges, to the 

Champ de Mars, for a long time the great parade- 
ground of Paris, full of historical recollections of the 
Revolution and the First Napoleon, with the splendid 
and extensive buildings of the Ecole Imperial Mili- 
taire bounding it at the end opposite to the river. In 
the centre of this, as many thousand Americans for- 
tunately know from recollection, stood the Great 
Exposition Palace of 1867, while the whole Champ 
was turned into a magnificent park, filled with floral 
and arboricultural treasures and the buildings of all 
nations. Within sight of the Champ de Mars, to the 
left and behind, diagonally, comes the great point 
of interest of the day, the 

Hotel des Jnvalides, an immense structure for 
military hospital purposes, built by Louis XIV., 
afterward taken up by Napoleon, and still used for 
that noble end. The principal points of interest to 
be visited are the Officers' and Soldiers' Refectories, 
with their scarred veterans, odd arrangements, old 
pictures of Louis XIV.'s battles, etc. ; the picture- 
galleries, with much trash, but some valuable kingly 
reminiscences ; the Chapel, where the rotting battle- 



176 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

flags, from the Oriflamrne of St. Louis to those taken 
at Sebastopol, hang and moulder ; and the Domed 
Church, commonly spoken of as 

" The Dome of the Invalides" at the opposite ex- 
tremity of the entrance, and entered separately from 
without, in a sunken space within the floor of which, 
in a green marble sarcophagus, surrounded by his 
mouldering battle-flags, and weeping figures in mar- 
ble, lies the body of the First Napoleon. The Church 
is very beautiful within ; and the High Altar and 
the light shed upon it are peculiarly fine ; while 
handsome monuments to Joseph Bonaparte, Turenne, 
Vauban, etc., are to be seen, besides the veterans of 
the First Empire, who there keep guard against any 
impropriety of action on the part of the ever-pressing 
crowd. 

While on this side of the Seine, should be visited, 
too, 

The Pantheon, largest of the churches of Paris, 
and one of the finest, with magnificent side-chapels 
(especially that of St. Genevieve, with its gilded 
screen) ; burial of Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, Mar- 
shal Lannes, Bougainville and many others, in the 
vault below ; and noble inscription over the front (in 
French) : " To the Great Men Remembered by their 
Country." Then comes the 

Church of St. Etienne du Mont, near the Pan- 
theon, very beautiful within, and especially noted for 
its splendid spiral stairway, unique in architecture, 
and some of its exquisite side-chapels. Glimpses 
may also be caught of St. Sulpice and other church- 
es ; and a visit should be paid to the neighboring 



IN FRANCE. 177 

Palace of the Luxembourg, one of the largest 
and finest of the royal reminders, with its splendid 
collection of pictures and antiquities; and on the 
return homeward, corresponding glimpses may be 
caught, on the Seine bank, of the 

Corps Legislatif, or Congress Hall of France, 
and many other public buildings, certain to be called 
to attention by guide or driver. 

A third evening has now been found for any 
theatre or opera-house that may be chosen. 

(Fourth Day.) — Take open carriage (weather al- 
lowing, as generally in Paris at midsummer), for Ver- 
sailles by Sevres. (Twelve to twenty francs per per- 
son — two-and-a-half to four dollars gold — will easily 
supply an excellent conveyance for the day, with 
guide, coachman, and fees paid.) The drive will be 
through the Champs Elysees, by the Avenue, to the 
end at the extreme height, where stands the 

Are cVMoile, a magnificent sculptured arch, the 
largest in Europe, erected by Napoleon to commem- 
orate his victories of 1805, and the colossal sculp- 
tures having reference to him. The ascent to the 
top of the Arc, which commands the finest of views 
over Paris, is a matter of time, taste, and legs. It 
is a better thing to say one has done, than to do. 
Beyond the Arc, and driving down the Avenue de 
l'Imperatrice, by the Porte Dauphine, is almost im- 
mediately entered 

The Bois de Boulogne, a splendid wood, once 
and a quarter the size of the New York Central 
Park, with unlimited expense lavished on its walks 
and drives ; with two beautiful lakes (Lac Superieure 



178 SHORT-TRIP GUILE. 

and Lac Inferieure), for pleasure-boating; a cascade 
at the extremity, of peculiar artificial grace (the 
Cascade de Longchainps) ; the Emperor's race-course 
of Longchamps in full view at the farther extremity ; 
ami all the peculiarities going to make up the hand- 
somest pleasure-ground in Europe — though nothing 
liner, nor so fine, in bridges or other erections, as the 
Central Park -will be when it has age and tree- 
growth. (The return from Versailles is also to be 
made through the Bois, at that early hour in the 
evening when all the fashionable riders of Paris and 
half Europe roll along these splendid drives in their 
carriages, with horsemen in abundance, and an un- 
limited quantity of foot people and con pies of stroll- 
ing lovers, taking the shady walks or lounging under 
the trees, not warned to " keep off the grass," as in 
American pleasure-grounds.) 

Not far beyond the Bois de Boulogne the Seine 
is crossed, with a view of 

St. Cloud, another of the roj-al-irnperial resi- 
dences, palace and park ; and not far beyond comes 

S&vres, a small town, of which the only attrac- 
tion is the imperial manufactory of porcelains, where 
tourists are allowed to inspect some of the most 
splendid works of art, in that line, made in any coun- 
try. A few miles farther bring 

Versailles, palace and park, considered one of the 
wonders of the world, even among royal residences. 
Built by Louis XIV., and ever since more or less 
constantly occupied as one of the favorite residences 
of the ruler. Among the curiosities to be seen here, 
are the 



IN FRANCE. 179 

Great Picture -Galleries of the palace, filled with 
rare and valuable works in painting, sculpture and 
antiquities (the rooms said to measure some eight 
miles in extent) ; the 

Napoleon and Josephine Rooms, with the beds, 
chairs, tables, and many other memorials of both ; 
the 

Trianon , with sedan-chairs and other memorials 
of Madame de Maintenon ; the 

Fountain of Latona, and other fountains in im- 
mense profusion — considered among the finest in the 
world; the 

Gardens and Flower- Walks, likewise considered 
unequalled ; the 

Park, of wondrous extent and breadth of shade, 
with its culmination in the " Tapis Vert," voted as 
the finest avenue of shade and sward in Europe, 
and with Louis XY.'s "Petit Trianon" hidden 
away at some distance from the palace and nearer 
grounds. ' 

Dinner should be taken, this day, at the Hotel 
du Reservoir, once the residence of Louis XY.'s 
cJiere amie, Madame de Pompadour, and a favorite re- 
sort of gourmands and fashionables; after which 
the drive back, through the Bois de Boulogne (be- 
fore alluded to) should include a visit of a few mo- 
ments to the 

Pre Gatelan, an inner beauty of the Bois, more 
glorious in flowers and foliage than any other por- 
tion, with an oddly-pretty little open-air summer 
theatre ; and if time should serve, then or otherwise, 

an hour in the 

16 



180 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Jardin d? Acclimatization, a sort of floral and 
zoological garden, also within the Bois, especially 
noted for its variety of rare birds, goats, and the 
more harmless animals. 

(Fifth Day.) — All this day, if possible, should be 
spent in viewing the outside and wandering through 
the galleries of 

The Louvre, once a royal palace, but now the 
most extensive museum in the world (with perhaps 
the exception of the British), adjoining the Palace of 
the Tuileries on the east, and of course reached on 
foot. Among its notable features, apart from the 
extent and beauty of the building itself, will be 
found the 

Great Picture -Galleries, of which the extent, 
filled with rare paintings, sculpture and curiosities, 
is said to be about ten miles, affording one of the 
costliest and most celebrated of collections. Chief 
among these is the 

Grand Gallery, filled with works by "the great 
painters of antiquity, scarcely a notable name unrep- 
resented, and the whole rivalling the galleries of the 
Vatican at Rome and Escurial at Madrid. Next in 
importance, to the tourist, are two apartments in what 
is called the " Museum of Napoleon III." — first the 

Moyal Antiquity Chamber, where may be seen 
the sword and sceptre of Charlemagne, the armor 
worn by Henry IV. at Ivry, the armor and swords 
of many of the other kings, the prayer-books of 
Mary Queen of Scots and Marie de Medicis, etc. ; 
and next and even more important, the 

Napoleon Room, where are to be found the coro- 



IN FRANCE. 181 

nation robes of the First Emperor, his camp-chest, 
camp-bed, clothes worn at St. Helena, and a hun- 
dred other affecting memorials of the Great Corsican, 
attracting; undivided attention and interest. 

These comprise, of course, only a fraction of the 
attractions of the Louvre, but they may be all that 
the short-trip traveller can command. To those who 
have abundance of time, abundance of other objects 
will present themselves, without any necessity of 
present mention. The Apollo and Vernet Galleries, 
however, should not be passed without notice; 
and the same may be said of the Hall of the Seven 
Chimneys, where Henry IV. died after being stabbed 
by Ravaillac. 

(Sixth Day.) — Visit, at some six miles from Paris 
(by cab), the 

Cathedral Church of St. Denis, in the old town 
of the same name, where the French kings have been 
buried, ever since the time of Dagobert, and where 
many interesting monuments and memorials of them 
can be found, though the revolutionary mob tore 
open their coffins and threw the bones into ditches, 
in '93, to have them restored with difficulty (!) in 
1816. The Cathedral is itself very fine in architec- 
ture, with some of the best stained glass in France ;' 
and the vaults may be visited by those ambitious of 
royal mould and damp. 

The St. Denis excursion can easily be made in 
half a day; and this, with six days to remain, leaves 
half a day for " chores." 

One fact, however, should be mentioned. Some 
of the buildings which most positively require to be 



182 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

entered, are only open on certain clays ; and the suc- 
cession of days here marked out may sometimes re- 
quire to be changed accordingly, though with proper 
arrangement the order of any one day will not need 
to be so changed. All the churches, except Notre 
Dame, are open every day: that, on Wednesdays, 
Fridays and Sundays, 11 to 4. The Tomb of Napo- 
leon, at the Invalides, can only be seen on Mondays 
and Thursdays, 12 to 3. The Bourse is open every 
day. Hotel Cluny, every day, 11 to 5. Palace of 
the Luxembourg, every day, 10 to 4. Louvre, every 
day except Monday, 12 to 4. Versailles, every day 
except Monday. St. Denis, and all the public gar- 
dens, grounds and monuments, every day. 

Not many visitors to Paris need to be told that 
Sunday is the liveliest day of the week, with every- 
thing open to the gay ; while the more serious can 
find service in all the churches, and splendid choral 
services in the principal ones. 

For those who have longer time to spend at and 
about the capital, there are of course fifty additional 
points of interest not here named — among others, 
the Conservatory of Arts and Measures, the Mint 
(Hotel des Monnaies), the Gobelin Tapestry Manu- 
factory, the Jardin des Plantes (natural history), the 
School of Fine Arts, the Museum of Artillery, the 
Palace of Fine Arts, etc., etc. 

As to theatre-going — for grand opera, the Grand 
Opera is to be visited; for light opera, the Opera 
Comique or the Varieties is preferable ; for comedy, 
the Theatre Francais ; for spectacle, the Porte St. 
Martin, 



XIII. 

PAEIS TO GENEVA. 

[Before briefly sketching this route and the short Swiss tour 
to follow, it may be well to say that there is an Englishman named 
Thomas Cook, who. has agencies in London, Paris and some other 
cities, for arranging " Excursions " and selling through tickets for 
certain routes and return, at much less than the regular fares de- 
manded (first or second class, optional) ; and that for those who 
leave Paris for Switzerland and Germany, to return there, he may 
be dealt with to advantage — one of the benefits of the " Cook's 
Tourist Tickets " being the saving of much inconvenience in pur- 
chasing route-tickets at the various line-intersections.] 

Leave Paris for Geneva by the early morning train 
of the Lyons and Mediterranean Railway, breakfast- 
ing before starting. Never take the afternoon train, 
as by that means much fine scenery would inevitably 
be lost on one portion of the route or another ; and 
never arrange to go the whole distance without stop- 
ping, for the same reason. Those who leave Paris 
in the morning and go directly through, travelling 
all night, lose the Valley of the Rhone, one of the 
finest in Europe ; and those who leave in the after- 
noon lose the views of the vineyards and rural sce- 
nery of Southern France. 

The train passes, a few miles from Paris, running 
southeastward, by the town of Melun, and 

Fontainebleu, tower and old royal residence, pal- 
ace and park, of which a mere glimpse is caught from 
the train. The scenery is flat and tame, but " French " 



184 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE, 

and interesting, during all the early part of this day. 
Many river-glimpses are caught — first of the Seine, 
and then of the quiet little Yvonne, the hanks of 
which are very closely followed by the railway, all 
the way to 

Tonnerre (English, " thunder "), a town of no par- 
ticular mark, where the halt is made for dinner, and 
an exceedingly good one {table (Phote) always pro- 
vided. The second halt of consequence is made, two 
or three hours later, at 

Dijon, a fine old city, with abundance of histori- 
cal reminiscences but little time to note them and still 
catch a trifle of supper. At Dijon the course changes 
to almost due sou^th, terminating, at nearly nightfall, 
at 

Macon, on the river Saone, famous for its wines, 
and well worthy of the evening spent before retiring, 
and the next morning before train-time, — to see its 
little " Champs Elysees," where the people amuse 
themselves in the evening, d la Paris ; its odd old 
streets, fountain and market ; its odder people, hand- 
some modern church, river with boats running down 
to Lyons, etc. Sleep at Macon, and leave next morn- 
ing by train for Geneva. 

Cars are changed at JBourg, and again at Ambe- 
rieiiXy to catch the train up from Lyons ; but some 
pleasant glimpses of the Saone and the distant moun- 
tains eastward compensate for this inflection. Very 
soon after leaving Amberieux commences the ascent 
of the 

Valley of the Rhone, one of the wildest and most 
picturesque on either continent; the road passing 



PARIS TO GENEVA. 185 

over steep inclines and through narrow rock-bound 
passes, until reaching 

Culoz, where the scenery becomes yet wilder and 
grander, with the Rhone spanned by bridges, tun- 
nelled for miles, rolling hundreds of feet below 
(something like Niagara below the Falls, but much 
wilder), and presenting one of the most splendid bits 
of engineering in any land — the "Tunnel de Credo," 
2-| miles in length, and the "Valserine Viaduct," 
rival of the Starucea, being; amono- the most notable 
features, and ever-memorable glimpses of the distant 
Swiss mountains are caught, in fine weather, from 
Culoz, onward ; but it is only on reaching 

Bellegarde, where the route changes from France 
to Switzerland, that in the clearest weather is caught 
the 

First glimpse of Mont Blanc, eighty or one hun- 
dred miles to the right, with the Aiguillettes and 
other points of the great snow range of Savoy. (In 
order to have even the chance of catching; this never- 
to-be-forgotten first glimpse, the right-hand side of 
the carriage is desirable.) 

One to two hours after entering the Swiss terri- 
tory, all the while running through the passes and 
plunging across the ravines of the Jura range of 
mountains, is reached the end of that special jour- 
ney, and one of the most beautiful, beautifully-locat- 
ed and historic cities of Europe, 

Geneva ! 



XIV. 

SHOET TEIPS IN SWITZERLAND. 
GENEVA AND CHILLON. 

Geneva, charmingly situated, as already indi- 
cated, lies at the extreme southwestern point of the 
Lake of Geneva, otherwise known as Lake Leman. 
It stands on both sides the lake-foot, and of the 
Rhone, which here debouches from it. The views 
from it are perhaps unequalled by those from any 
other city on the globe, the lake spreading away far 
to the north and east, the fine dark range of the Jura 
in full view to the north and west, and the nearer 
mountains of the southern side of the lake (called by 
Cooper, in the " Headsman," the " ramparts of Sa- 
voy ") showing to the southeast, with Mt. Blanc and 
the other giants of the snow-range always visible in 
fine weather. 

The city is very old, and has much historical in- 
terest, especially as connected with the wars of Sa- 
voy, and with John Calvin (who preached and resided 
here), and many of the events of the Reformation. 
It probably contains about 50,000 inhabitants , has 
many manufactures ; and is celebrated, world-wide, 
for its construction of the popular Swiss watches. 
The most interesting of all its buildings is 

The Cathedral (St. Pierre), built about 1050, a 
noble Gothic building, containing the tombs of Duke 



IN SWITZERLAND. 187 

Henry de Rohan and the Comte d'Aubigny, French 
Protestant leaders under Louis XIII. and Henry IV. ; 
and (under the pavement) of Cardinal Jean de Brog- 
nier, President of the Council of Constance, and other 
ecclesiastical celebrities ; and the canopy of the pul- 
pit (not the pulpit itself, as sometimes alleged) once 
filled by Calvin. The arches and stained glass, and 
the old presbyters' stalls, are very fine; and the 
echo of music or the voice is peculiarly notable. 
Next in interest to the Cathedral, come the 

Hotel de Ville, and the Arsenal, in the latter of 
which the collection of arms is very fine. After 
these, the next are the 

Ifus'ee Moth (a Museum), with a very fine collec- 
tion of pictures and sculpture, and the 

Mush Academique, with antiquities, geological 
collection and reading-room ; and 

Mousseau's House, near the latter. But quite as 
interesting as any of the buildings, after the Cathe- 
dral, are the 

Bridges — the beautiful Pont des Bergues and 
Pont .du Mont Blanc, spanning the river at the centre 
of the city, while from the former shoots out a little 
shaded island, of peculiar beauty, forming a favorite 
promenade, knoAvn as 

MousseaiCs Garden (He de J. J. Rousseau), so 
named from its having been a favorite resort of the 
author of "Abelard" and the "Confessions." The 
promenades along the quais, on both sides, are very 
delightful, with their views of the lake, the odd 
lateen-rigged schooners, the distant mountains, etc. ; 
and especially delightful is the 



188 8H0RT-TEIP GUIDE. 

Jar din Anglais (English Garden), overhanging 
the waters on the south side, where military concerts 
are given almost every evening during the summer. 
(It should be added, that nearly or quite all worth 
seeing in, Geneva can be better seen on foot than 
with the cost of a cab or other conveyance.) 

Whatever the other arrangements, one day should 
be spent (leaving Geneva at 8 a. M.),in taking steam- 
er up the lake to Chillon, and return at early evening. 
This gives the most delightful of views of lake and 
mountains, passing, and stopping at many of them 
(all on the north side) — the charmingly situated 
shore-towns of Versoix, Coppet, Nyon, Rolle, St. 
Prex, Morges, Ouchy (with Lausanne at a little dis- 
tance behind), Lutry, Cully, Vevey and Montreux, 
until the landing is made at Veytaux-Chillon, and a 
few minutes' ride or walk (the latter easiest attain- 
able) brings the tourist to the 

Castle of Chillozst, a fine old turreted chateau, 
more than half fortress, with round and square tow- 
ers of very unequal heights, standing at the edge of 
the lake, near the extreme eastern end, overhung by 
frowning mountains. This was once a residence of 
the Dukes of Savoy, afterwards a prison, but owes 
nearly all its celebrity to Byron's having made it the 
scene of his affecting poem, the " Prisoner of Chil- 
lon." 

The points best worth notice in this fine old pile 
are 

The Draicbridge and Moat, where something may 
be learned of the uses and mode of operating those 
appendages, in the far past ; the 



m SWITZERLAND. 189 

Dungeons {oubliettes), part of theni lying beneath 
the surface of the lake, and fearfully dismal ; the 

Great Audience Chamber, where the Dukes of 
Savoy gave audience, now occupied with arms and 
flags of the Helvetian Republic ; the 

Chapel, where the prayers must have been pecu- 
liar; then, en suite, the 

Chamber of the Condemned, where the doomed 
passed their last night on cold stones ; followed by 
the 

Execution-Room, with a trap-door ready to slide 
the beheaded bodies into the lake, and so save 
trouble ; and that succeeded by the last and most 
interesting of all, 

Bonnivard's Prison., the scene of Byron's mas- 
ter-work, — with its " seven columns," the third bear- 
ing the name of " Byron," said to have been cut 
there by his own hand, and the fifth yet holding the 
massive chain and ring to which Bonnivard was fet- 
tered — its high, narrow-slitted windows, looking out 
over the lake (if they could only be reached) and all 
the suggestions of an age of cruelty not yet quite 
ended. 

The return to Geneva is made by boat ; and dur- 
ing the return-voyage, as in going up, if the weather 
is fine, there are many chances of seeing, once and 
again if not continually, Mt. Blanc, the " monarch 
of mountains," and some of his brother snow-capped 
giants. 



190 SHORT-TBIP GUIDE. 

EXCURSION FROM GENEVA TO CHAMOUNI, AND RE- 
TURN. 

Those who make only the briefest of the brief 
tours in Switzerland, must give up the hope of see- 
ing the Valley of Chamounix, and Mont Blanc from 
that much nearer point of view — (one of the noblest 
of all the attractions presented by the "land of 
mountains "), trusting to the mountains -of the Ber- 
nese Oberland to supply the omission and give the 
best possible idea of the sharp, rugged peaks, bald 
or snow-crowned, and many of them of needle sharp- 
ness ; the glaciers, or rivers of ice, that sweep be- 
tween them and around their feet ; the long strips 
of snow lying all summer down the vertical ravines, 
half way from peak to foot ; the innumerable cas- 
cades pouring and dashing down from the melted 
snows, sparkling, flashing and gleaming white on 
every hand ; the marvellously-fertile narrow valleys, 
with the green "Alps" stretching mountainward 
from them ; and the infinite variety of hanging- 
roofed and galleried chalets (houses) often curiously 
carved and ornamented in their timber-aud-shingle 
enclosures, and always with rows of large stones 
seeming to be holding down the roofs — all this, 
which combines to fill up the peculiar odd charm of 
Swiss scenery and make it a recollection never to be 
forgotten. These, for the very-short-trip tourist, 
must be deferred : he (as hereafter to be explained) 
must push on direct from Geneva for Berne and 
through the Oberland. 

The luckier tourist, however, who can add some 



•m SWITZERLAND. 191 

four days to this portion of his whole route (as in 
the ten or thirteen weeks' arrangement), and the ad- 
ditional expense involved, should make Chamounix 
a certainty, going to it by one route and returning 
by the other, as follows : 

Connect the excursion with that from Geneva to 
Chillon, leaving out the return from the latter. 
Leave Geneva by boat for Chillon, as before desig- 
nated, visit the Chateau, take the evening boat from 
Chillon to 

VUleneuve, only a mile or two beyond, at the ex- 
treme eastern end of the Lake, where the Rhone 
empties into it. From Villeneuve (a town of some 
age but little consequence), by rail, to 

Martigny, a very old town, dating back to the 
Roman times, and said then to have been the capital 
of a province ; now principally of consequence as the 
place whence the Monks of St. Bernard draw their sup- 
plies for the Hospice, and the point whence the ascent 
of the Alps is commenced by the Simplon or Great St. 
Bernard Passes, besides dividing with Sallanches (on 
the other side) the travel to Chamounix. It lies at 
the bottom of the depression formed by the sloping 
down of the Great Alps (Mt. Blanc or "snow 
range ") on the south, and the Bernese Alps on the 
north, and necessarily ends railway travel in that 
direction. 

The route from Martigny may be made on foot, 
by good travellers, but much easier by mule, for 
those who ride better than they walk, or even as 
well. The leading points of interest (fully pointed 

out and explained by guides, whether the tourist is 

17 



192 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

mounted or on foot) are Martigny-le-Bourg (where 
the little river Dranse is crossed), La Fontaine, Sar- 
mieux, Chavans en Haut, to the 

Col de la Forclaz, the summit of which may be 
ascended by those who wish a splendid view over 
the whole valley of the Rhone, but avoided by the 
leg-weary who need to husband their strength. 

From the Col de la Forclaz the road descends, 
passing the small village of Orient, directly winding 
through the dark Forest of Magnin, reaching, after 
rising again by a tough climb, the 

Col de J>alme, boundary between Switzerland and 
Savoy, from two different stations, on the top of 
which, in fine weather, perhaps the finest mountain- 
side view is obtained, in the world — the whole chain 
of Mt. Blanc being visible, from crown to foot, look- 
ing southward, with the Valley of Chaniounix and 
the great Glaciers ; and looking back northward, the 
Jungfrau, Finsteraarhorn and other giants of the 
Bernese Oberland being visible. 

From the top of the Col de Balme the descent 
commences, in view of the river Arve, and passing a 
noted landmark, the 

Homme de Pierre (Man of Stone), to Tour, a 
small village, with the Glacier de Tour near and in 
sight. Near Tour the little river Buisme is crossed ; 
and half an hour brings the tourist to 

Argentiere, a mountain tour of much beauty and 
some prominence, whence a carriage may be taken 
or the route finished on foot, to Chamounix. 

(The ascent from Martigny to Chamounix may 
be made by a very different route — that known as 



IJST SWITZERLAND. 193 

the Tete ISToire, tlie divergence being made not long 
before reaching the Col de la Forclaz, and some of 
the most startling passes in Switzerland accom- 
plished, besides passing through the Roche Percee 
[Pierced Rock] ; but by that route the view from the 
Gol de Balme would be lost entirely, and the in- 
creased fatigue of the passage, in that direction, in- 
duces the much more frequent taking of the course 
just described, while those going from Chamounix 
to Martigny offcenest take the Tete Noire.) 

Chamounix lies at the head of the Valley of the 
Arve, northward of Mt. Blanc and so near that the 
great mountain may be literally said to overshadow 
it — views of the monster and its chain being attain- 
able from any quarter. It has nearly a dozen of 
hotels and some 2,500 inhabitants ; and it supplies 
a marked attraction during all the " Alpine season," 
in the number of tourists and pleasure-seekers con- 
tinually arriving, departing, setting out upon and 
returning from the many excursions to be made in 
the neighborhood. 

It is from Chamounix that the ascents of Mt. 
Blanc are made ; but this, of course, is out of the 
line of the short-trip tourist (as indeed of most sen- 
sible people), who will not be expected to spend 
about $200 (gold), peril life, and fatigue himself be- 
yond a month's recovery, by any such climb. Look- 
ing wp to a mountain, from the immediate foot, is 
generally preferable (after one knows both) to look- 
ing down from it ; and Mt. Blanc and the Vale of 
Chamounix furnish no exception to the rule. 

There are some excursions, however, which may 



194 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

and should be made, even by those who linger but a 
single clay, while those who have several days at 
command (and who are consequently out of our pur- 
view) may easily learn more from the guides about 
more extended excursions, than could find any ap- 
propriate place here. This one day at Chamonnix 
should be spent in ascending the 

Montanvert (Green Mountain), an eminence on 
the east side of the valley, w r ith some two to three 
hours' climb (two to descend), from which the most 
magnificent of views can be obtained not onlv of the 
great mountains of the chain, but of the Glaciers 
which fill all the higher gorges, called the Mer de 
Glace above and the Glacier du IZois below, and al- 
together some twelve miles long by 1^ to 4| in width 
— the lower portion reaching down to the valley of 
Chamounix. This ascent should be made in the 
morning (always with a guide for whatever is to be 
done during the day), because then the rugged and 
difficult path is in shade and less fatiguing. 

From the Montanvert it is usual (now, even for 
ladies, though they should only attempt it if in fair 
health and sure-footed) to 

Cross the Mer de Glace to the Chapeau on the op- 
posite side— a difficult ice-climb of half to three-quar- 
ters of an hour, which will generally be found quite 
" enough of glacier " for the moderate. The 

Mauvais Pas (difficult steps) — steps hewn in the 
rock, not far from the Chapeau, is the most " pokerish " 
point. The view from 

The Chapeau, a limestone precipice on the north- 
east side of the Glacier, is considered nearly equal to 



m SWITZERLAND. 195 

that from the Montanvert. Many pause here, for 
return ; but those who have yet some strength and 
courage unexpended, will try the much more difficult 
scramble over the Glacier du Talefre to 

The Jardin, whence the views, so to speak, 
into the icy bowels of Mont Blanc can be bet- 
ter caught than elsewhere without ascending it. 
Of course provisions, as well as guides, require to be 
taken for the day ; and of course the day is no " child's 
play," except to practised mountaineers. The return 
to Chamounix occupies some six hours — quite all that 
will remain of the longest day, which may be set 
down, however, if successfully carried through, as 
the most glorious in all European touring. 

The return from Chamounix to Geneva should 
be made by way of Servoz, Sallanches or St. Martin, 
Cluses and Bonneville. Light carriages may be 
taken to 

Sallanches, from the bridge of which, over the 
Arve, splendid backward views of Mont Blanc and 
other mountains may be obtained. From Sallanches 
to Geneva by diligence; the whole route being made 
in nine to ten hours, and the most wonderful splendor 
and variety of mountain scenery being threaded 
throughout. 

GENEVA TO BERNE AND INTERLAKEN. 

From Geneva to Berne by rail, close along the 
northwestern side of the Lake of Geneva, to 

Lausanne, a very beautiful town, famous as a 
residence and with some historical reminders — among 



196 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

others, of Gibbon and Voltaire ; then shooting away 
northeastward, from the Lake, with last glimpses of 
the Mt. Blanc range (in fine weather) by 

JRomont, " a very old town climbing up a side- 
hill," and very queer in its many towers and Lom- 
bard y-poplars, to 

Freybourg, an older and larger town, straddling 
the gorge of the Same, with a fine old many-pinna- 
cled Cathedral and the celebrated organ, built by 
Aloys Moser without help or money (some of us 
would like to have his secret !), and considered one 
of the grandest in the world. Many lie over at Frey- 
bourg for a train, to see the Cathedral and the great 
suspension-bridges, and hear the organ (played every 
day, at 12 noon and 8 p. m.), and the time is cer- 
tainly not wasted. From Freybourg but a short ad- 
ditional ride to 

Bekxe, capital of Switzerland, lying on the rapid 
river Aar, with a specialty of " Bears," some 30,000 
to 40,000 inhabitants, and much general interest. 
Among its features, noticeable even in a few hours' 
stay, are its splendid whole streets of arcaded shops 
(the Grand Rue especially notable) ; the marvellous 
amount of wood carvings kept for sale ; the many 
old fountains ; the Old and New Bridges over the 
Aar (the former said to be five or six hundred years 
old), and the railroad bridge (trellis), one of the 
highest in the world ; and then of yet more impor- 
tant specialties, 

The Cathedral, old and fine, with remarkably 
beautiful entrance, and grand organ, on which play- 
ing may be heard nearly every night during the sum- 



'IN SWITZERLAND. 197 

mer, splendid statue of Rudolph von Erlach in front, 
etc. ; the 

Terrasse de Cathedral, a beautiful promenade, 
banging pokerishly over the Aar, with some inter- 
esting monuments ; a tough story of a knight, who 
once leaped down into the Aar on horseback and was 
not killed; and the most splendid of views, espe- 
cially at early evening, of the Jungfrau, the Monk, 
the Eiger, and the whole white-crowned range of the 
Bernese Oberland. Then come the 

Federal Palace (Congress Hall of Switzerland), of 
no special interest, however, without or within ; and 
the 

Fosse del Ours (bear-pit), lying beside the Aar, at 
the foot of the Grand Rue, with some noble speci- 
mens of the tribe of Bruin, who occasionally eat up a 
drunken traveller when he falls into their embraces. 

Berne has also a mechanical clock worthy of no- 
tice, with a crowing cock and moving figures. 

From Berne to the Lake of Thun (at Scherlingen- 
Thun) by railway ; thence by boat down the Aar 
and the Lake, with magnificent views of the Jung- 
frau, Monk, Eiger, Aarhorn, Finsteraarhorn, and 
other great peaks of the Oberland, to Newhaus, 
where the diligences of the General Post are taken, 
and a brief ride brings the tourist to 

Inteelaken, " heart of the Bernese Oberland," as 
it has been called — a very handsome and very Swiss 
old town, lying on the Aar, with Unterseen, a small 
suburb, across the river, and the Jungfrau in full 
view from any one of the many fine hotels that stud 
the principal street. Interlaken is famed for its 



198 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

shops for the sale of wood-carvings and other curi- 
osities, and far more as the favorite resort of tourists 
who wish to combine magnificent scenery with taste- 
ful quiet ; and it may perhaps be considered match- 
less, as a summer residence, in Switzerland. It has 
a Kursaal, used for dancing, music and reading ; 
mountain views almost unequalled ; and a multitude 
of line walks, combined with the opportunity for 
excursions innumerable. Those which should cer- 
tainly be made, at all hazards, are the following : 

By three-horse carriage (for a party of four, five 
or six, easily made up), up the Valley of Grindel- 
wald, to the 

Glaciers of Grinclelivald, running down to the 
valley between the Eiger and Midden thai — with a 
walk (well wrapped) into the ice-caverns underlying 
it, and an ascent of one of them if none of those near 
Mont Blanc have been " done." (If they have, these 
may as well be avoided, as secondary.) Thence 
around into the Valley of Lauterbrunnen, to the 

Falls of Lauterbrunnen (Staubbach), a single thin 
sheet falling a sheer thousand feet ; in the midst of 
perpendicular-cliff scenery of wonderful grandeur. 
This double excursion will occupy one day, and a 
highly interesting and memorable one ; and let not 
the tourist forget to set some of the "Alpine horns" 
blowing along the road (for a small fee) and carry 
away the fine echoes among the mountains — or fail 
to listen when, late in the return, his attention is 
called by guide or driver to the ruined Oastle of 
Unspunnen, where Byron is said to have laid the 
scene of his "Manfred." 



IN SWITZERLAND. 199 

[Those who have a little more time at command 
and do not object to a little more sharp climbing — 
may well take the Grindelwald excursion as enough 
for a single clay, and blend with that to Lauterbrun- 
nen the ascent of the 

Wengern Alp, in the neighborhood but beyond, 
where the national wrestling-matches are held on a 
broad pasture at the top, on the first Sunday in 
August, and from which the best of all views of the 
whole range of the great Oberland Mountains, the 
Jungfran, Monk, Breithorn, etc., and the whole val- 
ley of Lauterbrunnen, may be obtained.] 

The second of the absolutely-necessary excur- 
sions from Interlaken consists in taking the steamer 
on the Lake of Brienz (half-mile walk, east), to the 
landing of Giessbach, and thence ascending the 
mountain to the handsome hotel and 

Fall of Giessbach, making some thousand feet in 
four leaps from the top of the cliffs to the lake, amid 
trees and spanned by airy bridges, and without 
doubt one of the loveliest cataracts on the globe. 
A night spent at the hotel is said to supply a great 
added charm in the lighting of the Fall (clone every 
clear night) ; and the trip down the lake and back 
is a lovely one in the mountain-girt lake-scenery — 
not excelled by either Geneva or Lucerne. 

Among the walks around Interlaken, which should 
be taken if time allows, is that to the Jungfraublick, 
from which one of the finest of all views is caught 
(half-hour walk) ; the Heimwehfluh (three-quarter 
hour), another magnificent view ; the Hohbuhl (half 
hour) ; the ruins of Unspunnen (three-quarter hour), 



200 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

etc. Of rides, the finest remaining is that to the 
Schilling Platte, from which the valleys of Lauter- 
brunnen and Grindelwald can both be seen at once. 

INTEELAKEN TO LUCERNE, THE EHIGI AND BALE. 

For Lucerne, the boat on the Lake of Brienz is 
taken, as in going to Giessbach, affording another 
view of that beautiful lake, and this time for the 
whole length. The landing is made at the old 
town of 

Brienz, not especially notable except for that 
fact ; whence diligences are taken, the route ascend- 
ing sharply, with fine views over the Aar and the 
Lake of Brienz, to the summit of the 

JBrunig Pass (at Brunig-kulm) ; thence down, 
with corresponding rapidity and still with fine views, 
by the Lakes of Lungern and Sarnen (passed at the 
left), the scenery for the time softening materially, 
but the splendid pine timber of .all the ride winning 
the heart of the American, — to 

Alpnach, village at the southwest end of the 
Lake of Alpnach, to the southeast and nearly under 
shadow of Mont Pilatus, — where steamer is taken 
for the length of that lake, to the entrance of Lake 
Lucerne (" Lake of the Four Cantons." and scene of. 
Tell's exploits) ; thence across Lucerne, northward, 
with Pilatus in full view at the southwest and the 
Rhigi across the Lake at the northeast, to 

Lucerne (Luzern), one of the oldest cities of 
Switzerland, lying at the northwest point of the 
Lake of the same name. It stands at the junction 
of the river Reuss with the Lake ; is a Catholic city 



IN SWITZERLAND. 201 

and capital of the Canton of the same name ; has 
part of the old wall still surrounding it on the land 
side ; and offers, as curiosities, the three bridges 
over the Reuss (all odd, and the Muhlenbrucke with 
the singular ornamentation of thirty-six pictures 
called the " Dance of Death ") — the Arsenal, in 
which some interesting antiquities are preserved — 
among other things, flags taken at Lepanto under 
Don John of Austria — and the rare monument, called 
the " Lion of Lucerne," erected from Thorwaldsen's 
designs, in memory of the Swiss killed at Paris in 
defending Louis XVI., in 1792. Lucerne has also 
the charm of vieing with Geneva in loveliness of 
location. 

The Hhigi may be ascended from Lucerne, in 
either of two directions — from Kussnacht on the 
north (reached by carriage from Lucerne), the return 
made by Weggis, — or from Weggis, on the south 
(reached by boat), the return made by Kussnacht. 
In either case, sleeping accommodations at the top 
should be telegraphed for from Lucerne, a day ahead 
if possible. Supposing the first of the two routes 
to be taken — carriage to 

Kussnacht, alleged to be the scene of Tell's ex- 
ploit with the apple, and where some memorials of 
the hero are said to exist. Thence horses or chairs 
(carried by two men) up the mountain: not foot- 
climbing, except for very healthy and athletic peo- 
ple, and never for ladies. About three hours, by 
horse, after a succession of views embracing nearly 
all the cities, lakes and mountains of Switzerland, to 
the 



202 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Rhigi-Stczffel, half a mile from the top, where 
horses are generally kept and lodging may (or may 
not) be procured. Thence to the 

Hhigi-JKkihn (top), from which, if reached in 
time, one of the most memorable of sunsets is likely 
to be enjoyed. But the Rhigi is especially ascended 
to see the 

Sunrise, which demands getting up at call, and 
some shivering, but presents one of the noblest moun- 
tain-top sunrise-Tiews on the globe, embracing all 
Switzerland and seeming to embrace half the rest of 
the world. 

Down from the Rhigi, the same morning, on foot 
preferable, by 

Kaltbad, charmingly located half-way up, with 
many tine views of Pilatus, the distant Oberland, 
over the Lake of the Canton Uri, etc., to 

Weggis, whence steamer back to Lucerne, whence 
rail is taken to 

-Bale (Basle, or Basel), on the Rhine, reached in 
about four to six hours. It has some forty thousand 
inhabitants, and a thriving trade ; presents the odd- 
est bridge in the world — one side of stone and the 
other of wood ; has rope-and-current ferries that no 
one should miss ; shows an old Cathedral with the 
ugliest sculptures on the habitable globe, but some 
other good buildings, and is worth seeing in default 
of anything better. 

This ends, of necessity, all that can be accom- 
plished by the short-trip tourist in Switzerland, and 
it will be found to embrace the best of Swiss scenery. 
Those who have abundant means and leisure, of 



IN SWITZERLAND. 203 

course, should see the Lakes of Zurich, Constanz, 
Neufchatel, etc., the Falls of Schaffhausen, and the 
Monte Rosa chain of mountains ; but only those who 
have both at free command, can hope for much more 
than has been here hurriedly outlined, except in 
making one or the other of the great passes of the 
Alps into Italy, briefly to be alluded to in a follow- 
ing paper. 



18 



XV. 

BALE TO STBASBOUKG AND BADEN-BADEN. 

The most closely pressed of short-trip travellers, 
bavins; reached so far as Bale, should not return with- 
out touching Eastern France and Germany, at Stras- 
bourg and Baden-Baden. For this 

Kail from Bale, through the Lower Rhine prov- 
inces, with scenery altogether tamed down from that 
of Switzerland, and only a few glimpses of the moun- 
tains that are being left behind — with the only im- 
portant stoppage at Coimar — some eight hours to ' 

Strasbourg, on the extreme eastern border of 
France, the most important eastern city of the em- 
pire — called, indeed, the "Paris of Eastern France." 
It is pleasantly situated ; contains some 80,000 in- 
habitants ; is heavily fortified and garrisoned, as a 
guard against German encroachments ; and presents 
one of the most attractive points of all European 
travel. The most notable of its many curiosities 
are : first, 

The Cathedral, or Minister, with the tallest spire 
in the world (said to be 4*75 feet above the ground), 
the steeple of such delicate tracery that it seems to be 
lace-work, and the immense building, the very body 
of which is higher than the other steeples of the city, 
a wilderness of fine sculpture, statues, bas-reliefs, 
rich Gothic taste and interminable labor. It is said 



BALE TO STRASBOURG. 205 

to have been commenced in 1277 and finished in 
1601. Within, the massiveness and height of its 
columns and arches are well matched by the splendor 
of its organ, pulpit and side-chapels ; while its 

Great Astronomical Clock is well known as one 
of the world's wonders. That ingenious colossal 
structure winds only once in ninety-nine years ; 
shows not only the apparent time but the astronom- 
ical, the eclipses and other celestial phenomena ; 
and at 12 noon, every day, the Cathedral is visited 
by hundreds to see the mechanical cock which sur- 
mounts it clap his wings, and hear him crow — and 
to see the Twelve Apostles make their circuit around 
the figure of the Saviour. Next to the Cathedral, in 
interest, is the 

Church of St. Thomas, very old, containing the 
sarcophagus of Bishop Adeloque, died in 836 ; the 
splendid tomb of Marshal Saxe< — one of the finest in 
France ; and the ghastly but instructive embalmed 
bodies, in glass-covered coffins, of Count ISTassau- 
Salberg and his daughter, of the sixteenth century ; 
besides many other antiquities and curiosities. Next 
to this comes the fine 

Public Library, with many antiquities in the art 
of printing, and a splendid statue of Guttenberg 
without; but scarcely second to these are the 

Old Houses, some of them among the finest and 
best-preserved in Europe, and one of them, especially, 
authenticated as between 800 and 900 years old, and 
a marvel of stone-work, especially in its matchless 
spiral stairway. Within this house, too, are the frag- 
ments of the old clock (cock included) and of por- 



206 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

tions of the Cathedral destroyed by the revolution- 
ists in 1793, but since restored. One other feature 
of Strasbourg deserves note and must command it — 

The /Storks, apparently the protected " totem " of 
the city, visible everywhere, with nests covering 
nearly one-third of the chimneys in the older por- 
tions. To this incomplete summary should be added, 
that Strasbourg is the home and centre of the pates 
des foies gras (goose-liver pies) manufacture, to be 
found in such freshness and perfection nowhere else, 
— and that marching troops are always to be seen, 
and drums and bugles always to be heard, in its 
streets. 

From Strasbourg, by rail, across the Rhine, a few 
miles distant, to 

Kehl, where France changes to Germany and 
baggage is examined. The changes of cars are nu- 
merous, vexatious and unexplainable, and some three 
hours are consumed in going only forty miles, at the 
end of which the dark hills of the Black Forest rise 
around the traveller, and he is disembarked at 

Badek-Badezst, chief and most beautiful of the 
gambling resorts of Europe. It is charmingly loca- 
ted in a valley at the foot of and partially surrounded 
by the hills of the Black Forest ; and every appli- 
ance that art and taste could suggest has been added 
to make it attractive. Its first attraction, of course, is 

The Kursaal (Conversation-House), a noble struc- 
ture, with splendid promenade-grounds in front, and 
the rooms furnished and decorated with regal luxury 
— where the gambling-tables are ever filled from 
early morning to the closing hour at 11 p. h., and 



BALE TO STRASBOURG. 207 

where the wealth, ruin, crime and opportunities for 
melancholy study (and often for something worse) 
are unbounded. The playing, principally rouge et 
noir and roulette, is carried on in three principal 
rooms, all ages, conditions, and nearly as many 
women as men, being among the gamblers. There 
are also private rooms, where, hazard, ecarte, etc., 
are played by smaller parties. One end of the great 
building is a restaurant, and the other a ball-room 
and theatre, with either balls or performances two 
or three times a week during the " season." In front 
of the Kursaal is a music pavilion, where some of 
the finest bands in Germany play, during afternoons 
in summer, to immense concourses of promenaders 
from all lands — besides supplying music during 
the evenings. Next in importance to the Kur- 
saal is 

The Trinklialle (Drinking-House), an elegant 
building with magnificent piazza frescoed with the 
history and legends of Baden, standing to the left 
and a little in front of the principal attraction, with 
the Spa water (warm) always on free draught, and 
warm baths ready for those who desire to test the 
medicinal properties of the springs. 

The Theatre, standing almost in front of the Con- 
versation-House, is one of the handsomest in Europe, 
and opera is given there unexceptionably, two or 
three evenings a week, alternating the performance 
at the Kursaal, during the " season." Additional 
attractions are found in the very handsome walks 
and promenades with which the town abounds, and 
in the fine and costly wares kept lavishly in the shops 



208 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

that line the streets and stud the eastern side of the 
promenade-grounds. 

The principal excursions from Baden are to 
the 

(Jours de Hade, or race-course, four or five miles 
away westward — famous for its green turf track, the 
gatherings of notables and heavy betting which take 
place there every year, in September, while the ride 
to it supplies charming scenery ; and to the 

Slack Forest, the dark hills and sombre woods 
(mostly firs) of which surround Baden on three sides, 
with splendid dusky drives through them, and the 
two castles, 

The Alt Schloss and JVieu Schloss, which crown 
eminences in the vicinity, and not only afford a very 
favorable impression of the old knightly robber-holds 
of Germany, but show subterranean passages be- 
tween the two of great length, and some of the in- 
struments of torture and death once said to have 
been employed by the dreaded Vehrngericht, or u Se- 
cret Tribunal of Germany." The Nieu Schloss is 
the residence of the Grand Dukes of Baden ; the Alt 
was that of their ancestors. The ruins of the Alt 
Schloss are very fine ; the rides through the forest to 
them are notably handsome and memorable ; and 
charming views are caught from the heights (espe- 
cially near the Alt Schloss) over the distant Rhine 
and low country — with even finer (including the 
spire of Strasbourg Cathedral) from the top of the 
immense pile. 

There are some interesting excursions from Baden- 
Baden, to the Yburg, New Eberstein etc. (castles), 



BALE TO STRASBOURG. 209 

but they are scarcely likely to be taken by the short- 
trip tourist. 

Of course, for the visits to the Cours, the old 
castles, etc., already noted, carriages are required, 
and they may be had at fair prices, at the hotels, 
even in the height of the season : everything else at 
Baden may and should be seen on foot, the distances 
being trifling. 



XVI. 

SHOBT TEIPS IN GEBMANY. 

By right of natural division, of course, that por- 
tion of the preceding paper, relating to Baden-Baden, 
should have been included in this. But so many 
persons, travelling on " tourist-tickets," merely ran 
over the border to Baden without setting foot in an- 
other German city, that the division already made 
will be held excusable. 

From Baden-Baden, those who end their tour 
eastward at that point return to Strasbourg and take 
rail direct thence back to Paris, the run being made in 
twelve to fourteen hours, by Nancy, Bar-le-Duc, 
Chalons-sur-Marne, Epernay (dinner, if by the morn- 
ing-train from Strasbourg), Thierry, and ISTeuilly. 

But even those who have but limited time and 
are not prepared for much additional expense, when 
at Baden should endeavor to strain a point, before 
returning to Paris and the English ports, so far as 
to do 

FROM BADEISr-BADElSr DOWN THE RHINE. 

For this the route is taken from Baden by rail 
(same road as on arrival), connection being made 
with main line, going north, at Oos — sometimes with- 
out change. First place of importance, passed 
through within a few miles, is 



• IJST GERMANY. 211 

Bastadt, an old town, of which the chief point 
worth hurried observation is to be found in the very 
heavy and formidable fortifications, about which 
France and Germany are generally quarrelling. An 
hour and a half later, 

Garlsruhe ("Charles's Rest"), capital of the 
Grand Duchy of Baden, and one of the most taste- 
fully-laid-out, well-shaded and beautiful little towns 
in Europe. Glimpses can be caught, from the rail- 
way, of the Duke's Palace, an imposing and hand- 
some building, on elevated ground ; and those who 
have time for lying over one train, will find the 
Academy worth visiting for the sake of its pictures 
and frescoes. The next important stoppage beyond 
Garlsruhe, is 

Bruchsal, where the rail from Constance and 
northeastern Switzerland, by Stuttgart, intersects ; 
and no other point of importance presents itself, un- 
til reaching 

Heidelbeeg, still in Baden, on the south bank of 
the Neckar (a confluent of the Rhine, running into it 
from the east), considered one of the handsomest 
towns in Germany, besides holding an almost un- 
equalled reputation for the erudition of its very old 
University, and having a world of historical recol- 
lections connected with the Electors Palatine (who 
used to make their seat there), and the battles and 
sieges that have raged around it. The principal cu- 
riosities in the town (where a day should be spent if 
time allows) are the University ; the Castle, a mas- 
sive, half-ruined structure, said to have been built as 
an Electoral residence in the fourteenth century, and 



212 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

especially noted for its extensive cellars and the cele- 
brated " Heidelberg Tun " located there ; the Church 
of the Holy Ghost, which has the odd peculiarity of 
being partitioned in the centre, so that Catholics and 
Protestants can hold service at the same time ; the 
Church of St. Peter, where Jerome of Prague, the 
reformer, nailed his defiance to tne Papacy ; the fine 
views over the valley of the Neckar, from the ter- 
race of the Castle; the very long and handsome 
principal street on which nearly the whole city 
seems to be built, etc. 

From Heidelberg by rail, direct, in two to three 
hours, and passing through no places of special in- 
terest, though much fine Rhenish scenery, vineyards, 
etc., to 

Feankfokt-ow-the-Maine, lying, as its name 
indicates, on the river Maine, another eastern conflu- 
ent of the Rhine. Frankfort is one of the oldest and 
most interesting cities of Germany, alike for its fine 
old buildings, its rich historical associations, and its 
having been for so many centuries one of the great 
moneyed centres of Europe. It had been, since the 
twelfth century, a free city, and the capital of the 
Germanic Confederation, until absorbed by Prussia 
in 1866. The Emperor Charlemagne is said to have 
had a palace here, in the eighth century, and all the 
Emperors of Germany have been elected and crowned 
in the Cathedral. The Rothschild family had their 
beginning here, and their house is shown ; while the 
residences of other bankers are many and most mag- 
nificent. The first object of interest is the Cathedral 
(or " Dom "), with unfinished tower, dating back to 



' IN GERMANY. 213 

the thirteenth century, with some fine monuments, 
especially those of the Emperors Gunther and Ru- 
dolph of Sachsenhausen ; next the Town Hall, with 
its immense banqueting-tower and picture-gallery of 
the Emperors, and the market-place opposite, where 
at the imperial festivities they roasted oxen whole 
and outdid Jack Cade by making the fountains run 
with wine ; next the State Museum and Academy of 
Painting, with many fine works of art ; then the 
house and statue of Goethe (born here) ; the fine 
bridge over the Maine to the suburb of Sachsenhau- 
sen, etc. From Frankfort by rail, a very brief ride, 
to 

Wiesbaden, capital of the Grand Duchy of Nas- 
sau, of which the best idea may be given in saying 
that it is a miniature Baden-Baden ; dividing with 
Homburg the credit of being next to it in gambling; 
less select and more crowded in society ; lacking the 
Black Forest hills which make one of the great 
charms of Baden, but supplying the deficiency with 
a charming little lake which forms the favorite 
pleasure-resort, with fine gardens, orchards, and a 
beautiful situation generally. It has a Kursaal, of 
course, and all the gayeties of its greater rival, but is 
not worth so extended a study. From Wiesbaden 
the run should be made, back by rail, as if returning 
to Frankfort, to -the fine old town of 

Mayence (German "Mainz "), lying on the bank 
of the Rhine, a commercial city of importance, and 
chief town of Hesse-Darmstadt. It is heavily ford- 
led and garrisoned ; was one of the chief ecclesi- 
•stical cities in the centuries following Charlemagne ; 



214 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

and was held during a long siege by the French un- 
der Napoleon. Its principal buildings of interest 
are the Cathedral, an immense pile of red sandstone 
(which would have delighted Hugh Miller), now 
somewhat damaged by time and war, but with a 
wonderful collection of Electoral and other monu- 
ments within. Quite of as much interest will be 
found the "bridge of boats," nearly 1800 feet in 
length, across the Rhine ; the site of the house of Gut- 
tenberg, in venter of printing (born here), etc. 

At Mayence the rail should be abandoned and 
one of the steamers taken (going two or three times 
a day, first, second and third class, and with meals 
on board) — 

Dowsr the Rhixe, as here the beauty and inter- 
est of that river really begin. In the limited space 
at command here, of course no attempt at describing 
the scenery of that world-celebrated river can be 
made : all that is either possible or needful is merely 
to name the principal places of interest, and whether 
on the right or left bank, descending ; a little faculty 
of observation and the " comparing of notes " inevi- 
table on a Rhine steamer (always half-freighted with 
English and Americans), and a good local guide- 
book, which no one should fail to purchase at May- 
ence or earlier, will supply enough additional knowl- 
edge for identification. 

One additional remark is, however, necessary, 
before proceeding — that nearly all the Rhine, from 
Mayence to Cologne, is hilly and rocky-banked, 
something like the Hudson in its wilder passes, but 
dotted with cities, towns and castles, picturesque in 



• IR GERMANY. 215 

effect, — and that vineyards are almost universal. 
Perhaps no better description was ever given within 
the same space, than that applied to the Rhine by 
Praed, in the " Bridal of Belmont," and pages of 
dry phrases would not convey half so much : 

u Where foams and flows the glorious Rhine, 
Many a ruin wan and gray 
O'erlooks the cornfield and the yine, 

Majestic in its dark decay. 
Among their dim clouds, long ago, 
They mocked the battles that raged below : 

****** Homes of pride 
That frown on the breast of the peaceful tide." 

The first points of special interest, after leaving 
Mayence, are found, successively, in 

Beiberich, on the right, celebrated for the quality 
of its wines ; then 

Jbhannisberg, castle and town, also on the right, 
yet more celebrated for the production of the cele- 
brated " Johannisberger " wine — the vineyard once 
in the possession of Napoleon, and given by him (as 
he gave away crowns) to General Kellermann, the 
drao'oon. Then 

jRudesheim, also on the right, little less celebrat- , 
ed than Johannisberg, for a corresponding reason. 

Very shortly after passing Rudesheim, the inter- 
est changes entirely to the left bank, in view of the 
pleasant little town of 

Bingen (not "Binjen," as many call it — but 
"Bing-en"), lying at the mouth of the river Nahe, 
famous for its wine-trade, but much more for Mrs. 
Norton's touching poem, " Bingen on the Rhine." 



216 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

On the opposite side of the mouth of the Nahe stands 
the 

Castle of Ehrenfels, a picturesque robber-hold of 
the middle ages ; and near the river mouth, on a low 
flat, a "small square tower, the 

Mouse Tower, immortalized by the story of Bish- 
op Hatto, who kept his corn and starved the poor, 
then burned them in his barn — the revenge coming 
in the shape of all the mice in Germany (Southey 
blunders into calling them " rats ") attacking the 
tower and eating up the Bishop with everything 
else ! 

Bacharach is passed at the left, not long after 
leaving Birfgen ; then 

St. Goar, one of the old monkish holds, and very 
picturesque ; then at 

JOahnstein, on the left, the debarkation is made 
for Ems, another and smaller watering-and-gam- 
bling-place ; while at the right, opposite, is the fine 
and well-preserved 

Castle of Stotzenfels, belouging to the King of 
Prussia, and where he entertained Queen Victoria 
and Prince Albert in 1845, while the interior decora- 
tions of the Castle are magnificent, and it contains 
many curiosities in the armory — among others, swords 
of Napoleon, Wellington and Blucher. The next 
point of special interest is the large town of 

Coblentz, on the left, at the intersection of the 
Moselle and the Rhine, heavily fortified, and with 
another bridge of boats ; and opposite it the tremen- 
dous rocky fortress of 

Ehrenbreit stein (the "bright stone of honor"), 



IN GERMANY. 217 

nearly 400 feet above the level of the river, and be- 
lieved to be impregnable, so that the tourist (and 
reader) may be spared the figures of its guns, cost 
and garrison. A short distance below Coblentz and 
Ehrenbreitstein, is passed, on the left, the 

White Towe?\ where the French revolutionary 
army, under General Hoche, crossed in the face of 
the Austrians in 1797. Next are passed, on the right, 

JWeicwied, town, with a palace belonging to the 
King of Prussia ; on the left, 

Andernach, with heavy fortifications and a fine 
watch-tower near the river ; on the right the 

Castle of Hammer stein (fine rains — 800 years 
old) ; ou the left the 

Castle of Mheinech (ruins), with modern residence 
attached, and Brohl (village) near ; then on the right, 
with heavy fortifications, 

IAnz (town) ; and near it, also on the right, the 

Castle of Ochenfels (ruins, black and sombre). 
Just below, and among what is considered the very 
finest portion of the Rhine scenery, stands, on the 
left, the 

Castle of Molandseck, said to have been built by 
the celebrated paladin, Roland, that he might over- 
look the place of abode of his promised bride, who 
had believed him slain at Roncesvalles and taken 
the veil in the convent of 

JSfonnenwerden (St. Ursula — " silence "), of which 
the ruins are to be seen on a little island opposite. 
Nearly opposite Rolandseck, on the right, is the 
rocky 

Drachenfels ("castled crag of Drachenfels," 



218 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Byron), crowned with the ruins of an old castle, and 
around it the peaks of the bold group of hills called 
the " Seven Mountains," all 900 to 1,200 feet in height. 

It is only a short time after leaving the Drachen- 
fels, when at the left is seen 

JBonn, with one of the largest and most excellent 
Universities in the world ; a Cathedral, or Minster, 
showing the oddity of five towers, and alleged to 
have been built by the Empress Helena ; and sub- 
urbs of singular shaded beauty. But all eyes are 
now necessarily turned ahead, to the termination of 
the Rhine trip, which is shortly after reached (for 
the short-trip tourist) at 

Cologne, on the left bank of the Rhine, contain- 
ing some 120,000 inhabitants ; and lying along the 
river-curve in a crescent bending outward. It is 
very old (said to have been founded by Agrippina, 
daughter of the Roman Emperor Germanicus) ; very 
picturesque in its old houses and river-frontage - y very 
dirty (as are, however, most German towns) ; and 
very celebrated as having given name to the " Co- 
logne water," not one millionth part of which ever 
saw it. Of course people go to Cologne principally 
to see 

The Cathedral, one of the most stupendous speci- 
mens of Gothic architecture in the world, and per- 
fectly dizzying to the thought in the extent of its 
size and details. It is said to have been commenced 
in 1248, to be finished probably in 2048, when the 
two towers, as yet "no-horned," though even now 
wonderful in height, are each to reach 500 feet — the 
extreme length of the building. Within, it is quite 



I1T GERMANY. 219 

as magnificent as without, with the Chapel of the 
" Three Kings of Cologne " (the three wise men of 
the East who came to worship the infant Christ) be- 
hind the high altar, and the wealth of an empire 
lavished on the case containing their bones, and on 
similar objects. The whole cathedral is full of relics 
and objects of devotion, besides some fine paintings; 
and no brief time will suffice to study it thoroughly 
within and without. But perhaps scarcely second 
even to the Cathedral, in special interest, is the 

Church of St. Ursula, containing exposed the 
bones of the Eleven Thousand Virgins who accom- 
panied St. Ursula on a pilgrimage to Rome, and were 
murdered by the Huns on their return, for refusing 
to break their vow of chastity. The whole church is 
full of bones and skulls piled on shelves and heaped 
miscellaneously ; and the spectacle is edifying — more 
or less, according as one believes or disbelieves the 
story, or wishes or does not wish to see womankind 
reduced to " first principles." After St. Ursula, those 
of the many remaining churches of Cologne, best 
worth visiting, are, that of St. Peter, containing the 
font in which the painter Rubens (native of Cologne) 
was" baptized, and his masterpiece of the " Cruci- 
fixion" supplying the after-piece ; that of St. Mary, 
alleged to be nearly 1,200 years old, with some inter- 
esting effigies and pictures, that of St. Pantaleon, etc. 

FROM COLOGNE WESTWARD TO PARIS OR THE CHANNEL. 

( Route I. ) 
Return may be made from Cologne direct to 
Paris, by the Rhenish Railway, to 



220 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, a fine old town of Rhenish 
Prussia, boasting the residence of Charlemagne and 
the sepulture of that great monarch and many of 
his successors. Its first point of interest is the Ca- 
thedral, which is one of the oldest in Europe, and 
holds, besides the tomb of Charlemagne, the greatest 
collection of sacred relics, gathered from every land 7 
to be found in any one spot on the globe. Among 
the chief of them (about the authenticity of which 
each may decide for himself), are a piece of the 
Cross, a locket of the hair of the Virgin Mary, the 
leathern girdle of Christ, the bones of St. Stephen, a 
piece of Aaron's rod, the Saviour's swaddling-clothes, 
the scarf He wore at the Crucifixion, the robe worn 
by the Virgin at the Nativity, the cloth on which 
John the Baptist's head was laid, etc. Aix has 
many historical reminiscences— (among others, several 
Peace-Congresses) ; a splendid bronze statue of Char- 
lemagne in the market-place; has warm medicinal 
springs and a J^urhaus / and manufactures exten- 
sively. 

From Aix-la-Chapelle, still by rail, to 
Liege, in Belgium, handsomely situated on the 
liver Meuse, with the most extensive cannon, fire- 
arms and iron manufactories, on the continent. It 
has a fine old Cathedral (said to date back to the 
tenth century), with some good paintings and the 
best carved pulpit (of oak) in Europe ; a church of 
St. Jacques, with stained glass of rare perfection ; a 
Palace of Justice, once the abode of the mighty 
Bishops of Liege, and famous as the scene of a large 
part of Scott's novel of " Quentin Durward." A 



I2T GERMANY. 221 

little time can be excellently spent in Liege, exam- 
ining the manufactories — especially those of fire- 
arms. From Liege, on by rail to 

JVamur, also on the Meuse, at its intersection 
with the Sambre — principally notable for its exten- 
sive manufactures of iron and steel, and its connec- 
tion with the old wars of Flanders. From ISTamur, 
by rail, to 

Charier oi, heavily fortified, as affording one of 
the strongest defences of Belgium against France — 
and with coal-fields, iron-foundries, nail-factories, 
etc., seeming to blend English Birmingham and 
Wolverhampton. 

Shortly after leaving Charleroi, France is entered 
(at Jeumont), where baggage is examined. Thence 
the route is pursued by Cambrai, noted for giving 
name to " cambric," first manufactured here, and for 
the treaty of peace between Charles V. and Francis 
I., some time after the battle of Pavia ; by St. Quen- 
tin, memorable for its storming by the Spaniards 
and English, from the French, in the time of the 
English Queen Mary ; by Noyon, with a fine old 
cathedral, and noted as the birth-place of Calvin ; 
and by Compeigne, with the imperial palace and 
magnificent forest used in the hunting-season by 
Napoleon III. ; to Paris. 

(Route II.) 

The tourist who has finished with Paris before 
going to Switzerland and the Rhine, should pursue 
the route already indicated, from Cologne by Aix- 



222 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

la-Chapelle and Liege to ISTamur, but there branch 
off by rail, directly northwestward, to 

Brussels, the capital of Belgium, beautifully 
situated on rising ground beside the river Senne, a 
southern branch of the Scheldt — considered one of 
the best-shaded cities and handsomest residences in 
Europe. It has many attractions, in the Palace and 
Park of the King of Belgium ; the Parliament 
Houses ; the Hotel de Viile, very old and fine, with 
an enormous pyramidal tower nearly four hundred 
feet in height ; the Old Palace, with its great variety 
of Rubens's and other pictures ; the fine old churches 
of St. Gudule (Cathedral), La Chapelle, Bon Secours, 
etc. ; some excellent characteristic fountains, the 
great carpet and lace manufactories, etc. Several 
days may be profitably spent in Brussels ; but the 
short-trip tourist, with a good cab and intelligent 
driver, can "do" it very fairly in a single clay, set- 
ting aside a second day for the indispensable carriage 
or stage ride to the 

Battle-field of Waterloo, about twelve miles from 
the city, where the destiny of Europe is believed to. 
have been decided in the final defeat of Napoleon 
by Wellington and Blucher on the memorable 18th 
June, 1815. Plenty of guides and local guide-books 
can be found both at Brussels and in the neighbor- 
hood of the battle-field ; and there is not the least 
difficulty in purchasing, in either place, any desired 
quantity of relics of the battle — authentic or not, 
according as the tourist is of a robust faith. [N". B. — 
Those who do not wish to be excessively bored, 
should " check off" the guide at his first attempt to 



IN GERMANY. 223 

relate the events of the battle ; though he may be 
allowed, with all propriety, to conduct the visitor 
up the great mound in the centre of the field, crowned 
with the bronze lion (arms of Belgium), and marking 
the spot where the Prince of Orange fell — as well as 
to show the site of the old Chateau of Hougomont, 
the Farmhouse of La Haye Sainte, and the Sunken 
Road from Wavres, points at and around which the 
battle was really decided.] 

From Brussels, by rail, by Malines (one of the 
most celebrated of the lace-manufacturing towns), 
to 

Antwerp, on the river Scheldt, about half the 
size of Brussels, and second town of Belgium in im- 
portance — formerly the first. It has some shipping 
and foreign trade, and many buildings of great cost 
and beauty, while some of its streets, and especially 
the Great Place de Mere, may vie with any in Europe 
for beauty. Its chief attractions are to be found in 
the immense Cathedral, of magnificent architecture, 
and one of its two towers among the highest and 
most delicately-finished in the world ; in the iron 
canopy, at the foot of the Cathedral tower, the work 
of Quentin Matsys, the blacksmith-painter ; in Ru- 
bens's " Descent from the Cross " (his greatest work), 
found within the Cathedral, with other noted works 
by the same master ; in the Museum, with one of the 
finest collections of pictures in Europe — especially 
rich in the works of Rubens, Vandyke, and other 
Flemish artists-; in the churches of St. Augustine, 
St. Paul, St. Anthony, etc. ; and the house where 
Rubens lived and died. 



224 SHORT-TBIP GUIDE. 

From Antwerp rail may be taken to the fine old 
walled town of 

Ghent, scene of many of the most interesting 
historical occurrences of Belgium, and especially of 
the memorable episode of the patriot Philip van 
Artevelde. Among its leading curiosities will be 
found the very old Gateway, once belonging to the 
castle of the English John of Gaunt, Duke of Lan- 
caster, built more than a thousand years ago ; the 
Cathedral of St. Bavon, with a striking marble in- 
terior and Chapter Arms of the Spanish Order of the 
Golden Fleece, which once had its place of authority 
here ; the Belfry Tower, near the Cathedral, from 
which the warning bell rang to announce the (fre- 
quent) approach of invaders — its summit dragon- 
crowned and its base a prison ; the Church of St. 
Michael, containing Vandyke's " Crucifixion " ; its 
many picturesque bridges ; and the immense number 
of factories, for making everything, from laces and 
silks to dyes and whiskeys. 

If the Channel is to be crossed from Ostend, the 
tourist proceeds by rail from Ghent to 

Bruges, another fine old Flemish town, with even 
more bridges than Ghent, and almost as great a histor- 
ical interest. It has a splendid old Cathedral (Notre 
Dame) with a tower of wondrous height, and within 
it may be seen the gorgeous gilded tombs of Charles 
the Bold (Duke of Burgundy) and his daughter 
Mary, Empress of Austria, as well as many fine pic- 
tures. There is also attraction to be found in the 
Hospital of St. John, with its many relics; in the 
Cathedral of Saint Sauveur, Church of Jerusalem, 



IN GERMANY. 225 

etc. ; but, to Americans especially, one of the most 
notable features will be found' in the Belfry, in the 
Market Square, very lofty and of splendid Gothic 
architecture, with a chime of forty-eight bells, some 
of them fabulously large, and almost constantly ring 
ing — while Longfellow has doubly immortalized it 
in his fine poem of the "Belfry of Bruges," com- 
mencing 

" In the market-place of Bruges stands a belfry old and brown, 
Thrice consumed and thrice rebuilded, still it towers o'er the 
town." 

From Bruges only an hour by rail to 

Ostend, a fine old Belgian port on the Channel, 
with no feature, however, demanding stay. From 
Ostend steamers leave every evening for Dover, in 
England, — the time occupied being from five to eight 
hours, according to weather. 

If, from Ghent, the traveller prefers less Channel- 
passage with more riding by railway, that end can 
be secured by running southward by rail, past Cour- 
trai and Mouscron, to 

Lille, another very old Flemish town, with 
nearly the same features of industry, manufacture 
and antiquity, observed from Aix to Bruges ; thence 
by the Northern of France Railway to 

Calais, with steamer passage to Dover in one- 
and-a-half to two hours. 

HINT FOR LONGER TOUR LAKE CONSTANCE BY INN- 

SPRUCK, MUNICH, DRESDEN, BERLIN, ETC. 

In the preceding has been given all that the 
short-trip tourist can hope to see of Germany during 



226 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

any one season ; but a hint may be of advantage to 
those who have leisure for something longer, or to 
the same persons when chancing to be a second time 
nearly within the same districts. 

One of the most splendid routes in the world, and 
certainly one of the most varied in scenery and the 
character of the inhabitants, may be pursued as fol- 
lows, supposing the tourist to be a second time in 
Switzerland, or supposing him to prefer this to all 
or a great part of the German succession already 
given : 

The Swiss Lake Constance (easternmost of the 
whole group, and not before mentioned in the short 
trips in Switzerland) may be reached by rail from 
either Berne or Bale ; then the lake is descended by 
boat to 

Bregenz, at the extreme eastern end. From Bre- 
genz, by eilwagen (mail-diligence), across the lesser 
mountains separating Switzerland and the Tyrol 
(Austrian), by Feldkirch, Stuben, St. Anton, Lan- 
deck, Imst, Silz, etc., through grand wild scenery 
and with excellent opportunity for studying the pic- 
turesque Tyrolese costumes, to 

Innspeuck, capital of the Tyrol, splendidly situ- 
ated on the river Inn, and almost completely hemmed 
in by mountains of great height. It has a wonderful 
variety of monuments in the Hof kirche, among the 
rest that of Maximilian L, one of the finest in Eu- 
rope, that of the patriot Hofer, etc. The Imperial 
Palace, Museum, etc., and the old Castle of Ambras, 
are all worth visiting, — as also the scenes in the 
neighborhood where the Tyrolese won such bloody 



IN GERMANY. 227 

victories during the Napoleonic Avars. From Inn- 
spruck, by rail, to 

Munich, caj3ital of the Kingdom of Bavaria, ly- 
ing on the river Aar, and challenging all the other 
capitals of Europe for beauty, especially since the 
thousand costly improvements made by the late 
King Louis I. (friend of Lola Montez, who literally 
reigned here for a short period). It is almost equally 
matchless in buildings, public grounds, and disputes 
with Paris, Rome and Madrid the palm as a reposi- 
tory of art. The leading attractions are found in the 
Residenz, or Royal Palace, a part very old and a 
second part new and yet more elegant — with courts, 
fountains, statuary and antiquities, magnificent halls, 
etc.; the Pincothek, or Picture-Gallery, with some 
thirteen hundred of the best paintings of all schools 
(open every day except Saturday) ; the Glypothek, 
or Sculpture-Gallery (open Mondays, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays), only second to the picture collection ; 
the Schwanthaler Museum; the Royal Brewery, 
where the celebrated Bavarian beer has its fountain- 
head; the Public Library, second in size in the world 
(nearly a million volumes) ; and many splendid 
churches and monuments, only to be intelligently 
seen with a guide or valet de place. From Munich, 
by rail, to 

Augsburg, a pleasant old town on the river Lech, 
with many historical recollections, and the Bishop's 
Palace still standing in which the noted Augsburg 
Confession of Faith was framed, and where Luther 
held his interview with the Cardinal Gaeta, before 

proceeding to the reformation extremities ; the old 

20 



228 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Fugger House, commemorating the Austrian Roth- 
schild ; the Fountain of Augustus ; the wilderness 
of watchmakers' shops, etc. From Augsburg by- 
rail to 

Nuremberg, on the river Pegnitz — once one of 
the richest cities in Europe, now principally famous for 
its monopoly of the making of toys, and to Ameri- 
cans as the scene of another of Long-fellow's finest 
poems, " Nuremberg," in which 

" In the valley of the Pegnitz, where across broad meadow-lands, 
Eise the blue Franconian Mountains, Nuremberg, the ancient, 
stands." 

It is famous in the world of art as the birth-place 
of Albert Dilrer, the painter and engraver, and for 
the many fine sculptures in the Churches of St. Law- 
rence, St. Sebald (which contains the tomb of Dtirer) ; 
and additional attractions are found in the rock- 
throned Castle, dating back to the eleventh century, 
the Churchyard of St. John, with many interesting 
monuments, etc. From Nuremberg, by rail, by 
Bamberg, Lichtenfels and Chemnitz, to 

Dresden - , the capital of Saxony, on the river 
Elbe, with an old and a new town (something like 
Edinburgh) on the two sides of the river, and a 
splendid bridge of 1,400 feet in length connecting. 
Dresden is so complete in situation, shade, walks and 
laying out, as to hold the name of the " Northern 
Florence " ; and it is considered by many the equal 
of any other capital in Europe, while in works of art, 
and especially in antique jewelry and fine sculptures, 
it is certainly unequalled. Its leading attraction is 



I.¥ GERMANY. 229 

the celebrated "Dresden Gallery," with, world-wide 
reputation, and full of the best works of the old 
Italian and German masters. The Z winger (build- 
ings and promenade-grounds) contains a fine armory, 
with many military and historical curiosities — and a 
rich Museum of Natural History ; and the Japanese 
Palace, with its collection, the Frauenkirche, etc., 
are well worth visiting. 

From Dresden, by rail, to 

Berlin - , the capital of Prussia, one of the largest, 
handsomest, and now one of the most powerful, of, 
all the capitals of Europe. It contains nearly three 
quarters of a million inhabitants ; is some twelve miles 
in circumference ; holds in garrison from 20,000 to 
50,000 soldiers ; supplies one street, " Unter den 
Linden," lined with palaces and almost matchless in 
fragrant shade ; has many handsome monuments, 
among which the colossal equestrian one of Frederick 
the Great stands without superior in Europe; has a 
Museum especially rich in works of art (ranking per- 
haps second in Europe) ; and supplies a world of 
other attractions, as well as temptations to residence, 
in its Royal Palace, Opera -House, Arsenal, and 
splendid walks and drives, when " done " as it should 
be, under intelligent guidance. 

From Berlin, by rail, direct to 

Hamburg, on the Elbe, one of the leading free- 
cities of Germany, with a world of industry and 
manufactures and a heavy shipping-trade ; while the 
city has a perfect circumvallation of gardens, and is 
tasteful and handsome. Its most attractive buildings 
are the Exchange and the Churches of St. Peter and 



230 SHOUT-TRIP GUIDE. 

St. Michael — the latter with a tower of 460 feet and 
one of the finest organs in Germany. 

From Hamburg, steamer may be taken to an 
English port, or to America if the tour is ended ; or 
rail may be taken southward and westward, from 
Harburg, on the opposite side of the Elbe, across 
Hanover and Belgium, intersecting the railway from 
Cologne at Aix-la-Chapelle, and the route to the 
Channel pursued by Brussels and Ghent to Ostend 
or Calais, as before noted. 

Or, this may be shortened a little by leaving out 
Hamburg, and taking rail direct from Berlin by Aix- 
la-Chapelle, to Brussels, etc. 



XVII. 

ACEOSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 

Theee are three principal routes by which the 
passage of the Alps, southward to Italy, is effected. 
The first, or most westerly, is from St. Michel, France, 
to Susa, in Italy, and is known as the "Mt. Cenis" 
route. The second, next westerly, takes its depart- 
ure from Martian v, near the eastern end of the Lake 
of Geneva (Switzerland), ends at Aosta, and is known 
as the passage of the " Great St. Bernard." The 
third, and most easterly, may be said to commence 
at Andermatt, after that point is reached from Lu- 
cerne by way of the Lake of the Canton Uri, Flu- 
ellen and Altorf,— is known as the "St. Gotthard," 
crossing the range of that name to Bellinzona, near 
the head of Lake Maggiore. There is yet a fourth, 
called the " Simplon," reached by going up the Val- 
ley of the Rhone from Martigny (first route), cross- 
ing by the mighty work of engineering performed 
by Napoleon, the " Simplon Road," passing near 
Domo d'Ossola, and also ending on Lake Maggiore, 
though near the centre of the Lake and much farther 
southwestward than the end of the St. Gotthard. 

These passes are all picturesque, beyond compari- 
son with any other European scenery ; all more or 
less fatiguing, and often exciting to the timid or 
nervous ; but none of them has any absolute danger, 



232 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

except when pursued too early in the summer or too 
late in the autumn, and ladies make them habitually. 

THE MT. CENIS ROUTE. 

By this route the amount of necessary fatigue is 
much less than by either of the others, while the 
travel is certainly much less picturesque. Up to 
1867 the conveyance was from St. Michel, in the 
Maurierme Valley (reached by rail from either Paris, 
Lyons or Geneva, by Amberienx [junction — see 
"Paris to Geneva"], Aix and Chambery) by dili- 
gence over that fine mountain-range, with magnifi- 
cent views of Mont Blanc and the whole range of 
the White Alps, caught northward at many points, in 
line weather. By this route the road, after leaving 
St. Michel, sweeps a considerable distance northward 
and eastward, before entering the mountains — by 
St. Andre, Modane, Villeraudin, Termignon and 
Lans le Bourg; then sheering southward, the actual 
ascent is commenced at or near Tavernette, the 
crossing being thence made diagonally southeast- 
ward, on the eastern side of Mt. Cenis. to Molaret, 
where the sharpest line of descent ends, and thence 
to Susa. 

In 1867, however, a new and marked triumph in 
engineering was inaugurated, in the completion of a 
temporary railway of peculiar character over the 
mountain, a third or middle rail, with extra hori- 
zontal or gripping wheels, enabling trains to be 
drawn up the whole northern steep with a slow, 
steady, and apparently safe motion, and to be low- 



ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 283 

erecl on the southern side at corresponding rate and 
safety. Henceforth, of course, the mission of the 
diligences ended, as this link completes the great 
railway line from France and all Central Europe to 
Italy and all Southern. Even this is but temporary, 
however, for the great Mt. Cenis Tunnel is slowly 
but steadily progressing through the bowels of the 
mountain, and by 1870 or 1871 it is expected that 
trains will be able to pass through it, on the ordi- 
nary level, — the result being that special lovers of 
their ease will all adopt the Mt. Cenis route and ride 
into Italy as elsewhere on the " dead level," while 
others who have more regard for the picturesque than 
the practical, will be driven away to some one of 
the other routes. This link, however, will also per- 
fect a mightier chain than that of tourist-travel, 
by making complete the railway communication 
from Calais on the British Channel to Brindisi on 
the Adriatic (near the extreme end of the Italian 
"boot-heel " peninsula), whence the steamers leave 
for the shortest of all routes from Western Europe 
to India. 

The disembarkation, by railway as formerly by 
diligence, will be made at 

Susa (said to be the site of the old Roman Segu- 
sium), with fine mountain scenery, and two artificial 
objects commanding attention : the Roman Arch, 
erected b. c. 8, and once forming the entrance to the 
town from the Roman road to Gaul over Mont Ge- 
nevre ; and the Cathedral of St. Justus, bearing date 
of the eleventh century, with some antique curiosi- 
ties in the inner chapels. From Susa by rail to Tu- 



234 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

rin, etc., as will be seen by the following paper, 
" Short Trips in Italy." 

THE GREAT ST. BERNARD PASS AND ROUTE. 

As already indicated, the commencement of the 
Great St. Bernard route is reached at Martigny, by 
steamer or rail from Geneva to Villeneuve and the 
termination of railway travel at Martigny — the route, 
thus far, being precisely the same taken on the way 
to Chamounix. 

The time consumed on this route, between Mar- 
tigny (Switzerland), and Aosta (Italy), should be 
from 18 to 22 hours. It maybe made on foot by the 
very robust, in a somewhat longer time, and by 
spending one night at the Hospice. The better 
plan, however, is to. take carriage from Martigny to 
the Cantine de Proz, only 7-J miles from the Hospice, 
with led mules attached, to be ridden thence to the 
Hospice, and either the same or other mules to St. 
Remy, five or six miles beyond. From St. Remy to 
Aosta, carriage again. Or, for those who prefer 
more saddle-exercise and less carriage-confinement, 
carriage may merely be taken from Martigny to 
Liddes, about half-way to the Hospice — then mules 
to the Hospice and on to St. Remy, then carriages 
down to Aosta, as before. 

The principal points of interest on this route (by 
many thought to be very interesting) are the pas- 
sage up from Martigny through the Valley of the 
Dranse, to Bovernier ; then to Sembranchier, with 
the ruins of a fine old castle, said to have been once 
of great size and power, accommodating the Emperor 



ACROSS TEE ALPS TO ITALY. 235 

Sigismund, who stopped there, with 800 nobles to 
wait on him ; then Orsieres, with very fine view, 
especially of the snow peak of Mt. Velan ; then 
Liddes (station), with entrance into the wild Forest 
of St. Pierre ; then St. Pierre Mont Jonx, with some 
fine waterfalls and terrible gorges just beyond, 
rendered memorable by the fact that 'from here to 
the summit was found the most disheartening diffi- 
culty by Napoleon and the French troops, dragging 
up their dismounted guns, with the carriages packed 
on mules, in that wonderful "Passage of the Alps," 
from. Geneva by Martigny, in May, 1800. 

Then Cantine de JProz (station — positive end of 
the carriage-road -and commencement of the bridle- 
path), with still finer views of Mt. Velan, only a few 
miles southeastward. Thence the bridle-path trav- 
erses the pastures of the Plan de Proz, ascends the 
very wild Defile de Marengo ; not long afterwards 
passes two stone huts of interest, the one being a 
place of refuge for both people and cattle, and the 
other the old Morgue for preserving the bodies of 
those perished in the snow (see Cooper's " Heads- 
man of Berne," Chaps. XXIII. and XXIV.) ; then the 
Dranse is crossed by the Bridge of Xudri, the Val- 
lee des Morts (Valley of the Dead) is crossed, bring- 
ing the tourist to 

The Hospice of St. Bernard, a monastery consist- 
ing of two large massive stone buildings, partitioned 
into many rooms for the care and resuscitation of 
travellers — one of the highest places of dwelling in 
Europe, as it is one of the purest of benevolences and 
most celebrated of landmarks. The buildings have 



236 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

stood for some three hundred years, being erected 
solely for the succor of those crossing the Alps ; and 
the monks have their first duty (with the wonderful 
and somewhat fierce dogs kept here) in rescuing those 
who would otherwise perish in storms, and in attend- 
ing on those who arrive for shelter. Most of the 
supplies for the Hospice are brought up from Aosta, 
but a few from Martigny ; the fund for its support is 
derived jointly from the French and Italian Govern- 
ments (some 50,000 to 60,000 francs per year), be- 
sides what is contributed by travellers, who are, how- 
ever, neither charged anything nor begged from. 
Some 18,000 to 20,000 travellers are accommodated; 
but it is said that many, even of the wealthy, after 
eating: and beins: served, leave no remembrance he- 
hind them, and that the institution is lately a little 
crippled in consequence. Several hours may be 
profitably devoted to inspecting the plain but per- 
fect arrangements for the comfort of' visitors, and the 
large collection of pictures, gifts from travellers, 
relics and other curiosities, as well as the monument 
to Dessaix, erected by Napoleon in the Chapel. Be- 
sides the benevolent-looking monks themselves, and 
their mighty dogs, the Morgue (or dead-house, where 
the perished are sometimes kept undecayed for years) 
is well worth visiting ; and no one should quit the 
Hospice without remembering that Napoleon and his 
officers found shelter here, when they had at last 
surmounted the ' pass, and that the whole French 
army w r as feasted (at the First Consul's expense) on 
the plateau in front of the buildings. 

A little lake of some 500 feet long is passed soon 



ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 237 

after leaving the Hospice, and at the end of it a pil- 
lar marking the division between France and Italy. 
Beyond it lies the green pasture of the Hospice cat- 
tle, called La Vacherie. St. Remy (station), the first 
Italian village, is reached in 1 to 1-| hours from the 
Hospice, whether by mule or on foot, — and has one 
peculiarity of entirely filling the gorge where it 
stands, as if it had been literally poured into a trough ! 
From St. Remy the carriage-road recommences, while 
the valley is cultivated and all the character of the 
near scenery softened. The small villages passed are 
St. Oyen ; Etroubles ; Gignod (in a strong defile, 
and with the ruins of a defensive tower). Then the 
Val de Pellina opens, with a path over the glacier- 
pass of the Col de Colon. Then Signaye, at which 
the views of the splendid vineyards of Aosta begin ; 
while in fine weather, looking back northeastward 
and northwestward, a view almost unparalleled in the 
whole world may be caught — Monte Rosa at the right 
or eastward, Mont Blanc at the left or westward] 
Below, at the traveller's feet, lies the termination 
of the Alpine passage, in the handsome Italian town 
of 

Aosta (English "Augusta"), built and named 
after himself by Augustus, before the birth of Christ 
— magnificent heavy fortifications and walls remain- 
ing, and with a Triumphal Arch, Double Gate, Town 
Hall, Cathedral (with frescoes) Church of St. Ours, 
etc., worth what passing notice can be withdrawn 
from the natural aspects surrounding it. From Aosta 
by vetturino (diligence) to Ivrea ; thence by rail 
ot Titbit, etc. (See " Short Trips in Italy.") 



238 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

PASS AID ROUTE OF THE ST. GOTTHAED. 

By many who have traversed it and the others, 
the j)ass of the St. Gotthard is considered the most 
picturesque of all the routes from Switzerland to 
Italy ; and with those who do not care especially to 
guard against fatigue, it may probably be considered 
the most popular of the three. 

As already indicated in the opening of this paper, 
this third route is commenced, ordinarily, from Lu- 
cerne, taking boat on the Lake to Fluellen at the ex- 
treme south end (called the " Lake of the Canton 
Uri"), then by carriage, two or three miles, to 

Altorf^ capital of the Canton Uri, a pleasant little 
town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with particular inter- 
est as the scene where Gesler is believed to have com- 
manded and Tell shot the apple from the head of his 
son (though that distinction is disputed by Kussnacht, 
at the other or upper end of Lucerne, near the Rhigi). 
The most interesting objects it contains, are a splendid 
modern colossal Statue of Tell, with an inscription 
from Schiller; the Fountain, where the target-tree 
is alleged to have stood ; the old Tower, with Tell 
frescoes; the very old Capucin Monastery, with the 
Bannwald or Sacred Grove (of Schiller) behind it, etc. 

At Altdorf diligence is taken for the entire ride 
over the St. Gotthard to Bellinzona, occupying twen- 
ty-two-and-a-half to twenty-five hours ; and as the 
ride is to be a long one and through some of the 
most magnificent scenery in the world, care should 
be taken to avoid the inside middle seats^ from which 
little or nothing; can be seen. 



ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 239 

Some five or six hours, southward, through the 
magnificently wild Valley of the Reuss, by Botz- 
liugen, Klus, Silinen, Amstag, latschi, Wasen ; the 
" Devil's Bridge," with wildly-magnificent pass and 
fine fall), the Urner Loch Tunnel and the "beautiful 
rock-hemmed Valley of Uri, brings 

Andermatt, the principal town of the Valley and 
section, with a very old church (the charnel-house 
adjoining corniced with skulls), some fine views, and 
a splendid collection of minerals on sale, for those 
who can afford to. buy them. Andermatt is also the 
travelling-centre of the section, from which tourists 
draw their supplies and make their forays in every 
direction. 

From Andermatt to Hospenthal, with very fine 
view on the way of the Glacier of St. Anna, very 
high in air and singularly beautiful, and a remarkable 
old Lombard tower standing on a hill near the vil- 
lage. At Hospenthal the sharp ascent of the St. 
Gotthard (not single mountain, but range) may be 
said to commence, through a very wild valley on the 
left bank of the Reuss ; and a somewhat weary ride, 
though with continual splendid views, is encoun- 
tered before reaching the 

Pass of St. Gotthard (top), surrounded by several 
small lakes, and with an alberge or post-station very 
near, as also a lately-erected Hospice, with beds for 
poor travellers, and fine dogs kept for sale. At and 
near the summit snow lies on both sides of the road, 
generally nearly all summer ; and snow-storms and 
avalanches are not entire rarities. 

Shortly after commencing the descent from the 

21 



240 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Hospice, the road crosses the Ticino (German " Tes- 
sin"); and very near, an immense mass of rock and 
an inscription commemorate the victory of the Rus- 
sian Suwarrow over the French, in 1799. Very soon 
the road enters the Yal Tremola (Valley of Terror), 
a dismal valley into which many avalanches fall, 
and which is provided with several heavy timber 
" houses of refuge " against such chances. This is 
followed by the Valley of Airolo, and soon by the 
village of Airolo ; after which the Canaria Valley 
opens with its wondrous geological specimens, and 
the Defile of Stalvedro, which was held by 600 
French against 3,000 Russians for half a day, in 
1799. The route now follows, with slight descent, 
along the Ticino ; by Piotto, Dazio Grande, Faido, 
etc. ; through the beautiful Valley of Leventina, the 
scenery alternately rugged and soft, with chestnuts, 
vines and mulberries (trees) beginning to appear, to 
Giornico, with a fine old tower and very ancient 
church, and the waterfall of Cremusina just beyond ; 
by Boclio and Pollegio, where the Brenno joins the 
Ticino, and the hillsides become literally covered 
with vineyards ; to Osogna, at the foot of a singular 
peak ; then by several small and unimportant vil- 
lages, to 

Bellinzona, capital of the Canton of Tessin, with 
lofty walls and turrets and a most picturesque ap- 
pearance on approach, and with three remarkable 
Castles (" II Grande," " II Mezzo," and " II Corbe") 
worthy of examination, and a fine bridge over the 
Ticino. 

From Bellinzona to Como (Lake of Como), by 



ACROSS THE ALPS TO ITALY. 241 

diligence ; thence by rail to Milan, etc. (See " Short 
Trips in Italy.") 

BY THE SIMPL0N ROAD AND PASS. 

The comparatively small number crossing be- 
tween Switzerland and Italy, who wish to see Na- 
poleon's great work and take the Simplon pass for 
that object, — proceed to Martigriy, as if on the way 
to Chamounix or over the Great St. Bernard ; then 
proceed eastward up the Valley of the Rhone, by 
railway, to 

Sion, a town of some 5,000 inhabitants, capital 
of the Canton Yalais, on the Sionne ; crowned by 
two castles and with some fine ruins in the neigh- 
borhood ; also with a handsome Cathedral and church 
of St. Theodule, and environs of peculiar beauty. 
At Sion diligence is taken for 

Brieg, at the immediate foot of the mountains 
(celebrated by Dickens and Wilkie Collins in " No 
Thoroughfare , '). At Brieg (or if preferred, at Sion) 
diligence is taken for the whole route to Arona, on 
Lake Maggiore, Italy. At Brieg, also, the ascent 
commences, the valley of the Rhone being abandoned 
and the course taken at first almost due southward. 
Nearly the whole road, from Brieg to Domo d'Osso- 
la, is one continued reminder of the engineering de- 
termination of Napoleon, who commenced it in 
1800-1, and finished it six years later at a cost of 
15,000,000 francs, so that he could take cannon over 
the Alps with a little less trouble than by the Great 
St. Bernard. 

The road is very picturesque, and the views of 



242 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

peaks and glaciers are often excellent, though not to 
be compared with those by the St. Gotthard. Like 
the St. Gotthard, however, it has many avalanches, 
and the " houses of refuge " from them are frequent. 
The point of greatest interest is to be found at the 

SimplonCulm and Hospice (the latter something 
like that of the Gt. St. Bernard, with entertainment), 
where " a broad open valley resembling a dried-up 
lake," bounded by snow-capped heights and glaciers, 
as it has been well described, forms the highest point 
of the Pass. Many curiosities of scenery exist in the 
neighborhood, for those who have time and spirit to 
examine them. But the diligence pushes on, thence, 
downward, through the beautiful Val d'Ossola, to 
Porno d'Ossola, a handsome little Italian town ; by 
Vogogna and Ornavasso, to Fariolo, surrounded by 
luxuriant olive-groves, vineyards and all the evidences 
of great fruitfulness. It is near Fariolo, too, that 
are caught the first glimpses of the beautiful Lake 
Maggiore, with Isola Maclre and some others of its 
islands. Thence the shore of the Lake is skirted, by 
a road- of solid masonry, by Baveno, to 

Arona, of no particular charm to the tourist, 
except for its location on the Lake. From Arona 
by railway to Milan, Genoa, Turin, etc. (See " Short 
Trips in Italy.") 



XVIII. 

SHOET TEIPS IN ITALY. 

It is of course very difficult, in a single and brief 
paper devoted to the interests of the short-trip 
tourist in Italy, to be even as explicit as in some of 
the other countries, as to points of peculiar interest 
— nearly every step, in that land of natural beauty, 
and artistic and historic interest, being more or less 
a pilgrimage. All that can be attempted, in»this 
brief space, will be such an arrangement of short 
tours as seems most politic, with mention of a few 
of the objects of first interest in the leading cities 
visited. Local guide-books and valet-service are 
quite as useful in Italy as elsewhere, and no difficulty 
will be found in procuring either. One hint, before 
proceeding, as to time. The summer months are of 
course the best period for Grossing the Alps, but July 
and August are neither comfortable nor healthy 
months for travel in Italy, unhealthy miasma being 
very common, and mosquitoes and other troublesome 
insects almost universal. 

RESUME OF POINTS OF AEEIVAL IN ITALY. 

It will be remembered that by the Mt. Cenis 
route (No. 1) the tourist reaches Italy at Susa, near 
Turin ; that by the St. Bernard (No. 2) he reaches it 
at Aosta, above Ivrea, and still not far from Turin ; 



244 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

that by the St. Gotthard (No. 3) he is disembarked at 
Bellinzona, at the eastern end of Lake Maggiore, 
with nearest communication to Milan ; and that by 
the Simplon (No. 4) he finds himself at Arona, on 
the western side of the same lake, yet nearer to Mi- 
lan. All these routes, however, end so nearly to- 
gether, in comparison to the extent of Italy and dis- 
tance between the leading cities, that with a little 
care they may be all made to converge so as to allow 
the main features of the hurried but comprehensive 
route about to be traced, to be preserved. In order 
to do this, one of two objective points needs to be 
kept in view as the first visited, and indeed the two 
must be made to work together — Turin and Milan. 

TO AID AT TUBEST, MILAN AND THE LAKES. 

The Mt. Cenis passenger has but an hour's ride 
by rail, from Susa, — and the St. Bernard one only a 
little longer by diligence to Ivrea, and then on by 
rail, to 

Tueest, in Piedmont, long the capital of Sardinia, 
and until the removal to Florence, that of the lately- 
erected Kingdom of Italy. It has so great an anti- 
quity as to have been destroyed by the Emperor 
Constantine (about a. d. 330) for assisting Maxen- 
tius, when it had already an age of several centuries. 
It has since filled a notable place in history, being 
the seat of the Dukes of Savoy before and since they 
became Kings of Sardinia, and standing two sieges 
by the French, in 1649 and 1706. 

Turin lies on the river Po, has a population of 
nearly a quarter million, and (for Italy) much grow- 



IN ITALY. 245 

ing prosperity. Its principal public buildings of in- 
terest are the Royal Palace, modern and of no great 
splendor, but with some royal apartments, statuary 
and paintings worthy of hasty notice ; the Royal 
Armory, with an extensive collection of European 
and Oriental weapons and armor; the Pinacotheca, 
or Royal Gallery, with many paintings of interest 
and some of great merit, and a Museum of Antiqui- 
ties in the same building; the Palaces Carignano 
(formerly the Chamber of Deputies of Sardinia), 
Alfieri, Sonnaz and San Giorgio ; the Duomo, or Ca- 
thedral of St. John the Baptist, with no special archi- 
tectural merit, but handsome interior decorations, in 
chapels, altars, monuments (to members of the House 
of Savoy) and pictures ; the Churches of La Conso- 
lato, Corpus Domini, San Filippo, etc., all with a cer- 
tain interest in monuments and pictures within ; and 
the Basilica and Church of La Superga, in the sub- 
urbs, some four miles from the city centre, with in- 
teresting monuments of the Savoy family, and a mag- 
nificent view of the Alps and the surrounding coun- 
try, from the roof. Turin has also at least a dozen 
public squares ("Piazzas"), nearly all with statues 
or monuments ; a Cemetery with the resting-places 
of some distinguished persons ; and three or four 
bridges over the Po and its little tributary the Dora. 
This is among the least interesting of the great 
cities of Italy, and may be even hurriedly visited 
without serious loss, but should by no means be alto- 
gether omitted, even by those who do not necessa- 
rily pass through it. 

From Turin the tourist should take rail to 



246 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

JYovara, a town with a Cathedral or Duonio of 
some architectural and artistic interest, but princi- 
pally noted as the spot near which (two miles south- 
ward) King Charles Albert of Sardinia was fatally 
defeated by the Austrian, Radetsky, in 1849. From 
Kovara by rail due northward to 

Arona (or Allesandria), for a view of 

Lake Maggiore ("Mah-zjo-ree"), the second- 
largest and by some thought the most beautiful of 
the lakes of Italy — some forty-five miles in length by 
an average of three in width ; the north banks 
mountainous and wooded, the south sloping and well 
cultivated ; the water having the peculiarity of being 
green at the north end of the lake and deep blue at 
the south ; and the group of four known as the Bor- 
romean Islands (Isola Bella, Isola Superiore, Isola 
Madre and Isola San Giovanni), presenting what is 
considered the acme of shaded, villa-studded and 
graceful beauty, in that line of scenery. 

Steamers run northward on the lake, several times 
a day, to 

Magadino, near the northern extremity; and the 
most beautiful of extended views, with a landing at 
Isola Bella (considered the loveliest of the group, 
and holding the magnificent palace and grounds of 
Count Borromeo), may be enjoyed by taking one of 
the boats for the run to Arona and return. From 
Arona return by rail to Novara, thence direct by 
rail for the very brief ride to 

Milan, in Lombardy, — a walled town of ten 
gates, of great antiquity, having been at one time 
only second to Rome, in the Roman empire, in im- 



IiV ITALY. 247 

portance and population. It was afterwards the 
capital of a Lombard republic, then of a duchy in the 
hands of the powerful and ambitious Visconti and 
Sforzas. It was held by Spain after the battle of 
Pavia (defeat of Francis I. of France by the Emper- 
or Charles Y.) ; ceded by Spain to Austria in 1714; 
taken by the French republicans in 1796, and again 
by Napoleon after Marengo, in 1800. From 1805 to 
1814 (fall of Napoleon) it was the capital of the 
Bonapartan Kingdom of Italy ; falling again under 
Austrian control till the cession of the Lombardo- 
Venetian provinces to the new Kingdom of Italy. 

Milan has many beauties, but one unapproachably 
far beyond the rest stands 

The Dicomo (Cathedral), commenced in 1387, and 
scarcely yet finished ; built of white marble, of im- 
mense size ; with a central tower, spire, and a per- 
fect " forest of pinnacles " which give it an indescri- 
bably light and airy effect, in spite of its gigantic 
bulk. It has some thousands of statues in its out- 
ward ornamentation, and is considered the finest 
specimen of the Gothic in Italy and one of the 
grandest structures in the world — second to St. 
Peter's, if not indeed equal to it. The view from its 
roof, which can be ascended by 160 steps, is wonder- 
fully fine as well as extensive ; though those most 
familiar with the clear Italian sky advise that it 
should always be taken at sunrise or near sunset. 
Within, the Duomo is only less magnificent than 
without, the Gothic columns and arches having im- 
mense height and rare purity, and great wealth hav- 
ing been lavished through century after century upon 



248 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

its ornamentation. It has a magnificent high altar ; 
much fine sculpture ; a colored mosaic pavement 
eliciting universal admiration ; many gorgeous side- 
chapels, with tombs, monuments, pictures and relics, 
demanding many hours for even the most cursory 
examination, and impossible to be even enumerated 
otherwise than in the easily-attainable local guide- 
books; some magnificent stained-glass windows ; and 
in fine all the splendid features of one of the most 
stupendous churches and rarest artificial sights in the 
world. 

Great Churches (other than the Duomo) also 
abouud in Milan. Chief among these are San-Arn- 
brogio, singular as well as singularly old, having 
been built in the ninth century, with a very rare 
altar-front of gold-and-silver, some antique relics, 
paintings, etc. ; San Carlo, with one of the largest 
domes in Europe ; San Eustorgio, with a very beau- 
tiful bell-tower, some interesting works of art, monu- 
ments and relics ; San JFedele, elaborately decorated ; 
San Lorenzo, with the Colonne di San Lorenzo near 
(said to have been once part of a Temple of Hercu- 
les) ; Santa Maria la Madonna, considered next after 
the Duomo in imposing effect, without and within ; 
Santa Maria della Grazie ; Santa Maria della Pas- 
sione ; San Maurizio Maggiore ; San Nazaro ; San 
Pietro, etc. 

Palaces also abound in Milan, some of them well 
worth a visit — the Royal Palace, modern, accessible 
to visitors, and with some fine paintings ; the Arch- 
bishop's Palace, with the same features ; the Palazzo 
della Citta (City Hall — now an Exchange) ; Loggia 



m ITALY. 249 

degl' Ossi; Palazzo Bo rromeo ; Pal. Litta (with some 
fine pictures) ; Pal. Marino (now the residence of the 
city authorities), etc. 

Besides these, if time allows, may well be visited 
the Brera Museum (pictures and sculpture) and Li- 
brary ; the Pinacoteca, with many rare specimens of 
the old masters; the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, with 
pictures, library and many relics; the Museum of 
Natural History, etc. 

La JScala, the great opera-house and theatre, one ' 
of the largest in Europe and celebrated in the history 
of song, should be visited if any performances are 
given there during the visit ; and Milan has half-a- 
dozen other leading theatres and places of amusement. 

Besides these, the principal objects of interest 
are to be found in the handsome Public Gardens ; the 
immense Arena, of modern erection but on the plan 
of the ancient Amphitheatres, said to be capable of 
accommodating 30,000 spectators, where races, bal- 
loon-ascents and other diversions are frequent ; the 
tine triumphal Arco della Pace, etc. 

From Milan by rail to 

Como, with some architectural charms and a 
lovely situation, at the Lake-side, for a view of the 
beautiful 

Lake of Como, third of the Italian lakes in size, 
but by many thought the first in beauty, — surround- 
ed by bold hills and its shores dotted with luxurious 
villas and rich with olive-groves and vineyards, 
while it is .the very paradise of pleasure-seekers in 
rowing and sailing. Lake Como has been best com- 
memorated by Eogers in his poem of" Italy," when he 



250 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

" Turned prow and followed, landing soon 



Where steps of purest marble met the wave ; 
Where, through the trellises and corridors, 
Soft music came as from Armida's palace " — 

though the description given by Bulwer, in the 
" Lady of Lyons," in the passage commencing : " In 
a deep vale shut out by Alpine hills from the rude 
world," etc., is much more familiar. At all events, 
to see the Lake of Como and sail or row upon it, is 
one of the first necessities of travel in Italy. 

From Como return to Milan by rail, for the route 
eastward and southward. 

[This visit first to Turin and afterwards to Milan, 
it will be remembered, has been arranged for those 
crossing to Italy by the Mt. Cenis or St. Bernard 
routes ; for those who arrive by the St. Gotthard or 
the Simplon, a different succession will be advisable, 
as follows : 

For the St. Gotthard passenger, disembarked at 
Bellinzona, the best route will be by diligence to 

Magadino, at the head of Lake Maggiore ; thence 
by steamboat (three times a day in summer) down the 
Lake to Arona ; thence by rail to Novara, whence 
the detour must be made westward by rail to' Turin, 
if that city is to be visited, with return to Novara 
and on to Milan. Or, on to Milan at once from No- 
vara, leaving out Turin, if time and expense are im- 
perative. From Milan by rail to Como, and return 
to Milan, as in the case of passengers by the other 
routes. 

For the tourist by the Simplon road, precisely 
the same course as that last named, except the run 



m ITALY. 251 

from Bellinzona to Arona, he having disembarked 
from the route over the Alps at the latter place.] 

The passengers by all the four crossings will thus 
have accomplished the most desirable objects in the 
northwest, and be ready for the second stage : 

EEOM MILAN BY LAKE GAEDA, TO AND AT VENICE. 

From Milan by rail, by Cassano, Treviglio, Ber- 
gamo (station, on the last verge of the Alps, with a 
notable church of Santa Maria Maggiore and some 
pleasant excursions in the neighborhood) ; Grumello, 
Seriate, Palazzuola, 

Brescia (second city in Lombardy, — the ancient 
Brixia, with a Cathedral and some public buildings 
and palaces of note), Ponte San Marco, Lonato, Ser- 
mione (with the battle-field of Solferino very near it 
and easily reached by carriage), to 

Peschiera, on the river Mincio, at its exit from 
Lake Garda, one of the great fortified towns of what 
used to be the celebrated "Austrian Quadrilateral," 
and the southern port of the steamers on the Lake. 
Excursions may easily be made from it, by carriage, 
to the First Napoleon's great battle-field of Bivoli, 
and to 

Lake Gaeda, the largest of the Italian lakes, 
considered less beautiful than either Maggiore or 
Como, sometimes rough and dangerous for boats, but 
a perfect highway of steamers. The northern end 
of it is narrow and shut in by the Alps, but the 
southern shores are fertile, and the soft climate is 
considered especially favorable for pulmonary inva- 
lids. 

22 



252 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

From Peschiera, by rail, on by Castelnuovo and 
Somme Campagna, to 

Veeoista, on the river Adige, second of the 
Quadrilateral cities, and heavily fortified, like Pe- 
schiera, and with many antiquities ancl other curi- 
osities, but most interesting to English readers as 
the site of Shakspeare's "Romeo and Juliet," and 
" Two Gentlemen of Verona," as well as of many 
other plays and romances. It is known to be very 
old, and has had a most varied history — among 
other events, Marius having fought his great battle 
with the Cinibri here, and Theodoric the Goth de- 
feated Odoacer. It was at one time the capital of 
the Kingdom of Italy, again the seat of a republic, 
and then governed by petty dukes or princes. Dur- 
ing the last days of the Austrian supremacy, it was 
the centre of the military power of that nation in 
Italy. 

It has very many objects demanding attention, 
but first among them all, of course, will come 

Juliet's Tomb, iu the Garden of the Orfanotrofio 
— not of much artistic merit, but notable as being 
possibly the real resting-place of the lady so immor- 
talized, first by Da Porta, in the novel, and after- 
wards and so unapproachably by Shakspeare. Next 
comes 

The Amphitheatre , another of the old Roman re- 
mains, and said to have held more than 20,000 spec- 
tators, originally, though much fewer when in mod- 
ern times used as a place for holiday shows. There 
are also several palaces, particularly that of Del 
Consiglio, in front of which are statues of celebrated 



IN ITALY. 253 

natives of Verona — Pliny the Younger, Cornelius 
ISTepos, Macer, Catullus, and others ; that of Delle 
Urbe, with the Exchange near it, etc. Of 

Churches, the leading one is the Cathedral of 
Santa Maria Matricolare, said to have been orig- 
inally built in the time of Charlemagne, the archi- 
tecture pleasing, and the statues and monuments 
interesting ; and there are also that of Santa Maria 
PAntica, with tombs of the Scaligers ; that of Santa 
Anastasia, very beautiful, without and within ; that 
of San Zen one, very old (1138), with curious archi- 
tecture and many odd interior ornamentations, his- 
torical and mythological bas relievos, etc. ; those of 
San Fermo Maggiore, Santa Maria, etc. There is 
also a Pinacoteca, or Picture-Gallery, with many fine 
paintings of the Veronese school ; the Campo Santo 
(Cemetery — near the Vittoria Gate) has some good 
monuments; and the Roman Gates, Dei Borsari, 
Dei Leoni, etc., should not be passed without notice. 
Taken all in all, Verona will be found one of the 
most interesting cities in Italy, and, if possible, some 
days should be spent at and around it. 

A brief side-excursion may be made by rail from 
Verona southward to 

Mantua, on the Mincio (in point of fact, in one 
of its "elbows"), and surrounded by a group of 
small lakes. It is said to be the oldest city in Italy 
— older than Rome, and has a Duomo and some other 
handsome churches (St. Andrea the handsomest), and 
an Imperial Palace of five hundred rooms, now de- 
serted but still showing wonderful frescoes, floor- 
mosaics and other features of past elegance. It is 



254 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

another of the cities of the Austrian Quadrilateral, 
and heavily fortified, like the others already named, 
and has additional celebrity in Shakspeare's locating 
there part of the " Two Gentlemen of Verona," one 
act of "Romeo and Juliet," and the whole of the 
"Taming of the Shrew," of which the heroine, Kath- 
arine, is still said to live in the spirit of the Mantuan 
women. [Return to Verona by rail.] 

From Verona on by rail to 

Yicenza, at the foot of Monti Berici, and with 
many fine palaces, a Cathedral, Churches, a Museum, 
etc. Thence by rail to 

Padua (by carriage, the short distance from the 
railway-station to the town), chiefly remarkable for 
its celebrated University (one of the oldest, largest 
and best in Europe), its Cathedral, Palaces, Church- 
es, etc., and the fact that here, too, Shakspeare and 
others have located plays and romantic legends. 

From Padua by rail direct to one of the chiefest 
of all the Italian pilgrimages — the " Bride of the 
Sea," 

Venice, on the Adriatic, once the mistress of the 
commerce and half the power of Europe; one of the 
grandest of figures in history ; and one of the odd- 
est in geography, from the fact that its streets are 
canals, its conveyances are gondolas (boats), and 
that there is not a horse within its bounds. Of 
course its " cabs " are also the gondolas, and the only 
means of extended locomotion is by them, there not 
being even much opportunity for walking ! 

Venice is literally crammed with objects of inter- 
est, principally historical but many artistic ; and only 



ZZV ITALY. 255 

the briefest of resumes can be made of the more in- 
teresting. First in importance comes the 

Piazza de San Marco (Place of St. Marc), an ob- 
long square in the centre of the city, with colonnades 
all around it. At the east end stands the great 

Church of St. Marc, a magnificent edifice of Sara- 
cenic character, commenced in 977 and finished in 
1111, with the celebrated bronze horses of Constan- 
tinople over the grand entrance, the pavement of 
tesselatecl marble (pictorial) and the whole interior 
crowded with objects of beauty and interest, with 
the tomb of the Doge Andrea Dandolo (" blind old 
Daudolo ") one of the principal. Near it stands the 

Clock Tower, with the Lion of St. Marc and a 
statue of the Virgin ; and on the opposite side of 
the square the great 

Libreria (Library) ; and close beside that the 

Campanile (Bell-tower) dating back to 902 and 
offering a wonderful view from the summit. Be- 
tween the Libreria and the landing-place stand the 

Tico Columns, of granite, so often seen in pic- 
tures, the one surmounted by the Winged Lion of 
St. Marc and the other by a statue of St. Theo- 
dorus. Almost beside the church of St. Marc stands 
the 

Doges' Palace, one of the most perfect Moorish 
buildings in Europe, after the Alhambra at Grenada 
(open from 9 to 4, daily, except Sundays), its halls 
a wilderness of splendor in themselves, with mag- 
nificent staircases, portraits of the Doges, statuary, 
pictures (many of them historical) by some of the 
ablest pencils of the Venetian school — the whole de- 



256 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

manding elays in examination, with local hand-books 
or intelligent guides, and supplying one of the finest 
feasts of all European travel. 

Only separated from the Palace by an arm of the 
Canal, are the 

Carceri (Prisons), capable of holding 400 prison- 
ers, and graphically described, with many other ob- 
jects of great interest at Venice, by Cooper in his 
novel of " The Bravo." Connecting them with the 
Palace is the covered 

.Bridge of Sighs, so celebrated in history, and 
made doubly famous by Byron's lines in " Childe 
Harold": 

" I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs, 
A palace and a prison on each hand," etc. 

The JRialto (bridge), so celebrated through Shak- 
speare's " Merchant of Venice," lies at some distance 
back of the Piazza of St. Marc, crossing the Grand 
Canal between the islands of San Marco and Riva 
Alto, and has streets and shops on it, as London 
Bridge used to have. 

The Palaces and houses of note, at Venice, are 
legion ; but first among them in interest, with many, 
is the 

Palazzo Moro, where Cristoforo Moro, the Othello 
of Shakspeare, is said to have resided. Not many 
of them, or of the numberless churches, can be vis- 
ited by the short-trip tourist, who should not fail, 
however, to visit the wonderful 

Pinaeoteea (picture-gallery — open from 12 to 3) 
with 600 fine paintings, most of them of the Vene- 



IN" ITALY. 257 

tian schools, distributed through twenty rooms. A 
visit should also be paid to 

The Arsenal (open daily, 10 to 4), in which may 
be seen the standard of the Turkish Admiral, taken 
by Don John of Austria at Lepanto ; a model of the 
Bucentoro or Doge's galley, in which he wedded the 
Adriatic ; many magnificent suits of armor, etc. 

It should be noted, before passing, that there are 
some thirty-five churches in Venice, besides San 
Marc — of interest to those whose time will allow 
visiting them. 

The Gondolas will naturally be tried by the tour- 
ist, in the course of his visits ; and a very good idea 
of the appearance of the Lagoon and the openings 
into the Adriatic may be found by taking ferry-boat 
or gondola to 

Murano or Torcello, large islands in the Lagoon. 

VENICE TO FLORENCE AND EOME, BY EERRARA, BO- 
LOGNA, PISA AND LEGHOEN. 

From Venice by rail, by Rovigo (where one of 
the First Napoleon's important early battles was 
fought) to 

JFbrrara, a very old Roman town, famous for the 
sword-blades that used to bear the name of the great 
maker, " Andrew of Ferrara," with a Cathedral and 
Castle, both of some pretension; thence over a flat 
and highly-cultivated country, with no features of 
the picturesque, to 

IZologna, famous for its University and its sau- 
sages, as also for having been the nurse of a school 
of painting producing Guido, Domenichino, the Ca- 



258 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

raccis, etc. It is handsomely situated, and literally 
crowded with palaces, worthy of attention from any 
one with abundant leisure, especially for the sake of 
the fine paintings abounding everywhere ; but the 
short-trip tourist will necessarily push on to 

JPistoja, where the rail intersects that from Leg- 
horn, — thence to 

Florence, on the river Arno, and in the midst of 
the beautiful valley to which the river gives name — 
the Val d'Arno. It is divided by the Arno, some- 
thing like London and Paris, and the communication 
is made by four handsome bridges within the city 
limits and two in the suburbs. There are walls en- 
tirely surrounding it — ancient, bat rebuilt, with eight 
gates and two fortresses (Da Basso, north, and Di 
Belvedere, south), breaking the line. One of the 
finest promenades on the globe, the quay called 

The Lung 1 Arno, extends along the north bank 
of the river, the houses on the south side literally 
overhanging the water; and the whole city is so em- 
bowered in trees and so enchanting in every detail 
of the quietly picturesque, that the tourist will have 
little difficulty in agreeing with the dictum which 
assigns it the place of the handsomest city in Eu- 
rope. 

Since 1866, as is well known, Florence has been 
the capital of the Kingdom of Italy (removed from 
Turin) ; previous to the late revolutions it held the 
place of capital of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. 

Remarking a few of the most notable curiosities 
of the favored city, the first in order will come 
the 



- IN ITALY. 259 

Pitti Palace, the residence of the King of Italy — 
commenced in the fifteenth century, and with many 
beauties of architecture added to great extent, but 
especially famous for the wonderful collection of 
works of art in the great Picture-Gallery, — more 
than 500 in number, and, as alleged by experts, not 
one daub among them, while many of the very finest 
works of Titian, Raphael, Salvata Rosa, Rubens, Al- 
bert Dtirer, Guercino, Andrea del Sarto, Leonardo 
da Vinci, Vandyke, Perugino, Carlo Dolci, etc., liter- 
ally dazzle and confuse the unaccustomed beholder, 
and statuary from the most celebrated chisels, an- 
cient and modern, serves to fill up the measure of 
wonder. (Open daily from 9 to 3, except on Sundays 
from 10 to 3 and on Mondays 12 to 3.) 

Next to the collection at the Pitti Palace comes 
that of the 

Galleria Uffizi (" official," formerly " Royal " 
Gallery), above the Italian Senate Chamber, con- 
taining another magnificent collection of paintings, 
sculpture, bronzes, etc. (Open at the same hours as 
the Pitti, except that on Tuesdays, here, instead of 
Mondays, there, the admissions are from 12 to 3 — 
complete catalogues at the door.) This building was 
erected by Duke Cosmo I. (De Medicis), and has 
many charms of architecture. In the " Tribune " of 
this palace are collected the rarest of the rare in dif- 
ferent walks of art — among others, the original " Ve- 
nus de' Medicis," Raphael's " Fornarina " ; Titian's 
" Recumbent Venuses " ; Volterra's " Massacre of 
the Innocents " ; Perugino's " Holy Family " ; Cor- 
reggio's " Adoration of the Virgin " ; Michael Ange- 



260 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

lo's "Virgin and St. Joseph" ; Vandyke's "Charles 
V.", etc. 

Ther6 are some twenty or thirty other Palaces, 
Museums and Galleries, but the short-trip tourist will 
scarcely find time for more than the two mentioned ; 
turning then to the Churches, and first to the gigantic 

Santa Croce (" Holy Cross "), in handsome Goth- 
ic-Italian, with a bad steeple. The principal charm, 
however, lies within, in the splendid columns and 
roof; the tomb of Michael Angelo (buried here) ; 
monuments to Dante and Alfieri, respectively by 
Ricci and Canova ; frescoed walls and gorgeous side- 
chapels ; and so much of fine painting and sculpture 
that the church-character of the edifice is well-nigh 
forgotten in that of the picture-gallery. In some re- 
spects Santa Croce must yield to 

The Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore), 
commenced in the fifteenth century and not nearly 
completed. It has (as alleged) the largest dome in 
the world, and a rare peculiarity in the coating of 
the whole exterior with a mosaic of various-colored 
marbles ; and within there is much of interest, in 
architecture and works of art — the most notable fea 
ture in the former being the Baptistery, with gran- 
ite columns and mosaic floor, and in the latter a mar- 
ble group of the " Deposition of Christ," left unfinish- 
ed by Michael Angelo at his death. Adjoining the 
Duomo, 

The Campanile, or bell-tower, is of four stories, 
in delicate Gothic-Italian, nearly 300 feet in height, 
and considered the finest structure of its class in the 
world. 



IF ITALY. 261 

The other most notable churches in Florence are 
San Ambrogio, Santa Annunziata, SS. Apostoli, La 
Badia, II Carmine, Santa Felicita, San Lorenzo, San 
Marco, Santa Maria Novella, San Michele, Santa 
Spirito, Santa Trinita, etc. 

The public-grounds and suburbs of Florence are 
very delightful, and while the former should be visited 
and enjoyed, especially the Piazzas Dell' Annunziata, 
Santa Croce, Del Gran' Duca, etc. — the latter should 
receive attention, if possible, in excursions to 

Fiesote (by carriage or on foot), to catch the fine 
view over the city, see the old Etruscan ruins and 
the very old Cathedral there ; — and to 

Vattombrosa (of the "thick leaves"), occupying 
a day by going to Pontassieve by rail, and thence to 
the Shady Yale of the Hills, and the Convent, by 
carriage to Pelago and light carriage or on foot for 
the remaining distance. The views caught in this 
latter excursion will be found wonderfully fine ; and 
the eating of a fresh fish-dinner with the Monks is a 
pleasure to be remembered. 

From Florence by rail, by Prato, Pistoja and 
Pescia, to 

Xucca, principally notable for its Baths, which 
lie about fifteen miles distant and need about one 
day to make the excursion (by carriage) and return ; 
thence by rail to 

Pisa, of which the principal curiosities are the 
Duomo, or Cathedral ; the celebrated Leaning Tow- 
er, or Campanile ; and the Campo Santo, or Holy 
Field, a covered colonnaded space of considerable ex- 
tent, the ground formed of earth brought from Mount 



262 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Calvary by fifty-three Pisan vessels, after the taking 
of Palestine from the Christians by Saladin — and the 
whole filled with the monuments of those buried 
there, through all the ages until it was full, from an 
Emperor to a mere successful surgeon. Of the Lean- 
ing Tower it may be said that it would be no attrac- 
tion whatever but for the fact of its leaning, and that 
consequently the half-crazy builder has achieved what 
he attempted — a sensation. 

From Pisa, by rail, direct to 

Leghorn (Italian "Li vorno"), an old seaport on 
the Gulf of Genoa, with very little other attraction 
than the fact that the ships and flags of all nations 
may generally be seen in the antiquated old port 
and roads. 

From Leghorn, either by rail to La Annunzia- 
tella, and thence by diligence — or by steamer down 
the Gulf of Genoa, with views of the Italian coast, 
island of Elba (Napoleon's prison), and possibly Cor- 
sica (the place of his birth), to 

Civita Vecchia (port of Pome), another seaport 
of much smaller size and no consequence at all ex- 
cept in connection with the historical arrivals and 
departures for and from the Holy City, which it has 
witnessed. From Civita Yecchia by rail, by Santa 
Severa, Ponte Galera and La Magliana, to 

KOME IN A HTTKKY. 

Pome, on the little river Tiber, something less 
than twenty miles from its mouth ; with the Seven 
Hills underlying it, the Papal residence within it, a 
population of about 200,000, and so vast and varied 



- IN ITALY. 263 

a history, from the time when Romulus, its founder, 
was (or was not) suckled by a wolf, and that time, 
not long after, when its male population, very wife- 
hungry, carried off the Sabine women to fill that 
office — that the brain reels in the very attempt to 
recount rather what it has not seen than what it has ! 
Once the Pagan capital of the world, then the Chris- 
tian — the besieged and taken, the triumphant, the 
abhorred, the idolized, the knelt-to by Kings and the 
defied by men with no power — the city which has 
alternately enlightened and enslaved mankind, in 
letters, art and religion — it is scarcely wonderful 
that pilgrims from all climes flock to it to-day, as 
they have flocked for nearly two thousand years, and 
that it is reckoned the end and goal of European 
travel, as Jerusalem is considered that of journeys 
in the East. 

It has already been said that scarcely a foot of 
Italian soil is other than a pilgrimage ; but the re- 
mark applies with tenfold force to Rome, where the 
traveller is surrounded by so many relics of anti- 
quity and glories of art that each one almost takes 
away from the importance of the other. In no place 
in Europe, meanwhile, is intelligent guidance (wheth- 
er of friends or valet) more necessary to the hurried 
traveller, than at and around the Eternal City ; but 
local guide-books, in English as well as Italian, are 
numerous and easily procured, and another advan- 
tage is to be found in the fact that of late years the 
English and Americans have partially taken pos- 
session of Rome, as they have almost entirely taken 

possession of Paris. Within the scope of the pres- 
23 



264 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ent volume, it is neither possible nor desirable to do 
more than mention a few of the more preeminent 
objects of interest, leaving all details to the local 
authorities. 

First among these curiosities, of course, conies 
St. Peter's, the largest church in the world, built 
on the site where once stood a temple of Jupiter 
(whence the jest of Rev. Sidney Smith, of the building 
and a celebrated statue within, that " there had only- 
been a change in spelling — ' Jupiter ' having merely 
given way to 'Jew-Peter'"). The first structure on 
the spot is said to have been an oratory built within 
the first century on the burial-place of St. Peter, and 
the first church-erection one by Constantine the 
Great — of course after his miraculous conversion. 
The present building was commenced under Pope 
Julius II., in the sixteenth century ; but the wonder- 
ful dome is ascribed at a much later period to Mi- 
chael Angelo ; the immense colonnades which sweep 
round on either side from the piazza (enclosing a 
space of nearly eight hundred feet) were designed by 
Bernini ; and the front is credited to Carlo Maderno, 
who " improved " upon the plans of Michael Angelo 
after a not-very-rare system of altering at whatever 
cost. 

Some faint idea may be formed of its immense 
size by a few figures, from which it appears that the 
facade (or front) is 379 feet long and 148-J high — 
that the lull length of the interior is 613 feet (a little 
more than three blocks of a New York street) ; the 
length of the transepts (cross) 446^- ; the height of 
the naves, 152| ; the interior diameter of the great 



IN" ITALY. 265 

dome which crowns it, 139; and the exterior, 195-|; 
the height from the pavement to the base of the 
lantern, 405 ; and to the top of the cross, 468. The 
curious calculation was made, some years ago, that 
a dozen churches of the size of the New York Trin- 
ity could be set within it, the fronts and steeples 
grouped around in a close circle, and there would be 
abundant room, while the top of the cluster of spires 
would not reach within an huodred feet of the inside 
of the dome ! 

The sensation created by the great church, from 
without, is really indescribable, as it towers over the 
city on approach, at an incalculable distance ; but it 
is doubtful whether the impression, standing within, 
under the mighty dome and in the midst of its splen- 
dors in ornamentation, wealth of bronze, colored 
marbles, altar-decorations and monuments, is not 
even more overwhelming than in viewing it without. 
Those who ascend the dome (as all may do, entering 
before 11 a. m., by obtaining an order through the 
Minister or Consul of their particular nation, but all 
do not do!) say that the view from the top is mag- 
nificent beyond comparison, Rome, the Tiber, the 
Appian Way, the Campagna, the distant sea, all 
seeming at the very feet, and humanity in the street 
looking like so many little crawling insects ! 

Of course the crowning charm of St. Peter's is 
found in the religious services and the rare music 
which forms so large a part of them. The best of 
these, however, are only attainable at a few periods 
in the year, and most of them in the winter and 
early spring (favorite time for being at Rome). The 



266 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

most noted of these are tbe Grand Masses on Christ- 
mas and New-Year Day, and the ceremonies which 
follow throughout the month and extend into Feb- 
ruary. Yet more impressive than these are the 
round of exercises of Holy Week, commencing on 
Palm Sunday, and with a separate musical and scenic 
splendor for Ash Wednesday and Holy Thursday, 
culminating on Good Friday and Easter Sunday. 
The only summer festival is on June 28th and 29th, 
when the procession of Corpus Domini and grand 
masses take place. These are the only occasions on 
which the full splendors of the body of the Church 
or of the celebrated Sistine Chapel (properly Sixtine) 
can be witnessed, and then only by ladies in black, 
with black veils, and gentlemen in full evening dress. 
Vespers are sung every evening, from 3 to 4-|, in one 
of the side-chapels, and this must content those who 
miss the great festivals. 

Next after St. Peter's (of churches) comes 
The Lateran^ where the popes are always crowned, 
alleged to have been begun by Constantine in the 
fourth century, and formerly ranking even before St. 
Peter's. Its colonnaded front is magnificent, and 
the interior is a mass of chapels, splendor, monu- 
ments and relics — among the latter of which may be 
mentioned a cedar table on which the Last Supper is 
alleged to have been eaten, while there is a staircase 
shown, without, claimed to have been that of Pilate's 
house, up which Christ was led to be judged ! The 
principal religious ceremonies at the Lateran occur 
on the Saturday before Easter, on Ascension Day, 
and on the festival of St. John the Baptist. 



IF ITALY. 267 

The number of other churches in and about 
Rome is literally legion. They cannot all be visited, 
except by those who tarry long ; and ignoring them, in 
the present connection, it will be necessary to turn to 

The Vatican, Capitol of Rome and palace of the 
Popes, lying to the right of St. Peter's and entered 
by the right colonnade of that edifice. The number 
of chambers in its three stories and adjoining build- 
ings are variously estimated at 5,000 to 13,000; and 
the cluster certainly covers a space of some 1,200 
feet in length by 1,000 in breadth. Within the Vat- 
ican is found the 

Sistine Chapel, where a part of the exercises of 
Holy Week take place, — rich in every detail of dec- 
oration, and especially in the great frescoes of Mi- 
chael Angelo and others, the "Last Judgment" of 
that master, and one of the world's wonders, being 
the most notable feature. But it is to the 

Galleries of the Vatican that the tourist's visit is 
principally paid, after all, for in these almost endless 
rooms are gathered the grandest works of art of a 
world. Raphael's greatest works are here, in fresco 
and in oil, — headed by his " Transfiguration " — so 
many that for even their names the local guide-book 
and catalogue must be referred to. Then, many of 
the masterpieces of Giulio Romano, Perugino, Mu- 
rillo ("Marriage of Saint Catharine," among others), 
Domenichino (" Communion of St. Jerome," etc.), 
Titian ("Madonna and Child," etc.), Guido, Paul 
Veronese, Correggio, and in fact all the giants of 
ancient art, making the collection unparalleled in 
extent, interest and value. Then follow ancient and 



268 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

modern sculpture in almost equal profusion, with the 
celebrated group of the " Laocoon " (sung by Byron), 
the "Apollo Belvidere" (ditto), the "Cupid" of 
Praxiteles, the "Amazon," the "Ariadne," etc., to 
lead the sense of admiration. 

But long before traversing and inspecting all 
these, the tourist will have turned to the special and 
mighty antiquities of Rome, to the 

Walls, a part of them so very old, so many times 
destroyed and rebuilt, and with their odd old fortifi- 
cations ; to the 

^Bridges, of which something more than half-a- 
dozen cross the Tiber, nearly all ancient — tracing 
out particularly the remains of the Snblicius, where 

" Horatius kept the bridge, 



In the brave days of old ! " 
to the 

Seven Sills, now more than half uninhabited, 
though he will find no difficulty, history assisting, in 
tracing out the Aventine, the Palatine, the Cselian, 
the Esquiline, the Viminal, the Quirinal and the Capi- 
toline, the two latter being really the only ones that 
can be said to be dwelt upon. He will have visited 

Tlie Forum, and seen the wonderful grouping of 
antiquities all around it, the very names of which, in 
one cluster, would fill pages here, as they have done 
in history. He will have climbed to 

The Capitol, remembered the victors and the 
vanquished who went up there, wished that they 
would let him ascend the Tower (as they will not) 
for the best view over Rome, — then stood beside the 
"Dying Gladiator" in the hall of that name, and 



IN ITALY. 269 

wondered whether that marvellous statue or Byron's 
description, is best ; then wound away from the Capi- 
tol to the 

Tarpeian Rock, from which they threw the con- 
demned, and doubted whether the fall would always 
be fatal ; and then — culmination of all — stood within 

The Coliseum ("Colosseum"), by daylight and 
if possible by moonlight, beholding at once the re- 
remains of the mightiest structure ever raised by the 
hand of man — the Pyramids alone excepted — an$. 
the record of a historical cruelty unparalleled even 
in thought. The Coliseum is known to have been 
built in honor of Titus, conqueror of Jerusalem, and 
tradition says that 60,000 captive Jews were engaged 
for ten years upon it, while, at its inauguration, a. d. 
71, 5,000 animals and 10,000 of those less valuable 
animals, captives, were slain. It is alleged to have 
given seats to 87,000 spectators; and even that may 
be possible, when it is remembered that the circum- 
ference is 1,641 feet and the height of the outer wall 
157, the whole covering six acres. Before going to 
the Coliseum, however, unless the passage is " by 
heart," no one should fail to read over again that 
wonderful description of Byron : 

" On such a night 
I stood within the Coliseum's wall, 
'Mid the chief relics of almighty Rome. 
The trees which grew along the broken arches 
Waved dark in the blue midnight," etc. 

There are a thousand other objects of interest, in 
and around Rome, but when the tourist has seen 
these, and the gigantic 



270 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Castle of St. Angelo (once Hadrian's Tomb) ; the 

Pantheon, in wonderful preservation, though 
built by Agrippa, about A. D. 30 or 40, as the mon- 
ument of old Roman genius, but now doubly sacred 
as containing the Tomb of Raphael ; the 

Arch of Titus, and the Baths of the same Em- 
peror, with a few hundred ruined temples, etc., and 
driven out on the 

Appian Way to Albano and its Lake, with in- 
teresting remains studding the whole Campagna, — 
and visited a few of the sculptors' studios, — he may 
be said to have " done " Rome quite as well as can 
be expected of the short-trip traveller. 

(Before leaving Rome it should be said that May 
and June are the pleasantest months there, and that 
possibly August and September are the least so ; 
while, in spite of a heavy atmosjDhere not favorable 
to the lung-s, a " winter at Rome " is held to be " not 
a bad thing to do.") 

ROME TO NAPLES AND NORTHWARD. 

From Rome direct, by Albano, Capua, Frascati, 
Caserta, etc., in nine to ten hours, to 

Naples, on the Bay of the same name, now the 
largest city in Italy (with nearly half a million in- 
habitants), and for a long period one of the most 
popular of resorts for tourists and invalids. It was, 
until the late formation of the Kingdom of Italy, the 
capital of the Kingdom of Naples, ruled by Bourbon 
princes except during the brief period of the occu- 
pation of the throne by Napoleon's proxy, Joachim 
Murat. It is also the very paradise of beggars — bad 



ffl ITALY. 271 

enough throughout Italy, but here unendurable ; 
and to be either penniless or deaf and blind is rather 
a blessing than otherwise to the traveller, just here. 
Much curiosity, to those fond of such things, is to be 
found in the port, with extended break-water piers, 
or " moles," and in the fortifications near, that have 
once been formidable but are now dismantled or 
used for barracks, etc. 

The buildings of most importance are the 

Royal Palace, some three hundred years old, of 
which some of the rooms are shown, with a few good 
pictures ; the 

Castle of St. Elmo, standing on the hill directly 
back of the central port and fortifications, once very 
formidable and feared by the inhabitants as a " con- 
tinual threat," but now used for barracks, like those 
at the water-side ; the 

Musco Nazionale, with its great collection of 
antiquities from Pompeii and Herculaneum, and the 
Farnese collection from Rome (open, except on 
Monday, from 9 to 3, and Sundays from 9 to 1), 
forming one of the most interesting gatherings of 
the antique, in all Europe ; the 

Cathedral, dating from 1272 to 1420, with con- 
siderable pretensions in architecture, some statues 
worth noting, at the entrance, and some frescoes, 
paintings and historical tombs within ; the 

Church of Santa Chiara, interesting as being the 
burial-place of the Neapolitan Bourbons and having 
many of their monuments ; that of 

San Domenico, considered the handsomest in 
Naples, antique, but restored, with some good mon- 



272 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

uments and pictures, etc. (The other 300 churches 
of the city are mostly very uninteresting, and many, 
of them shockingly out of repair.) 

Very much of the interest of sojourn at Naples, 
however, will be found entirely removed from the 
city itself — in the lovely 

Bay of Naples, considered one of the finest, in 
every point of view, in the world, with its great 

Isle of Ischia and some other and smaller, lying 
at the north lip of the Bay, and the more diminutive 
but more beautiful 

Isle of Capri, holding a similar position across the 
Bay from the city, at the south lip ; in the aspects of 

Mount Vesuvius, lying a few miles east and 
south of the city, in full view, and easily reached, by 
those who wish to make the excursion and ascent, 
by the short railway to Resin a (where guides can be 
procured), thence on horseback up the mountain-side 
to the Hermitage, thence to the top on foot — the 
whole excursion and return occupying a laborious 
but most interesting clay. The volcano may or may 
not happen to be in a state of eruption ; but at all 
events, the debris, or " hash," of what it has already 
done, may prove to be quite sufficient, even if a 
stream of flowing lava should not chance to be met 
coming down as the tourist is going up ! 

(It is to be presumed that no born American, 
making this excursion, will need to be advised to 
obey the guides, keep at the windward side of the 
crater, and avoid tumbling into the same — in the 
which tumble he would be likely to illustrate Latini- 
ty on its own ground and discover the meaning of 



• IN ITALY. 273 

"facilis descensus Averni" without consulting the 
books ! Any undue exposures in this direction, as 
in climbing Swiss glaciers, should be left to mad- 
men, members of the English " Alpine Club," and 
people who have their lives heavily insured without 
any proviso against suicide.) 

The next excursion, also occupying one day, will 
be that to 

Pompeii and Herculaneum, the two cities buried 
by an eruption of the before-named (and visited) Ve- 
suvius, in a. d. 79 if the history of the affair is to 
be credited. The visit may be made either by rail- 
way, to Herculaneum first, leaving at an early hour 
in the morning and laying over one train there be- 
fore proceeding on to Pompeii, — or by private car- 
riage, at very nearly the same cost if a party of three 
or four are to make it together. The theatre, really 
an " amphitheatre," is the only monument enough 
dug out to be recognizable, at Herculaneum ; but at 
Pompeii there are very many curiosities, enough to 
occupy hours in examination — among which perhaps 
the most interesting will be found the House of 
Diomed (see Bulwer's "Last Days of Pompeii"), 
the Street of the Tombs, the City Gate (with the 
sentry-box where the soldier was found dead on 
duty), the City Walls, the Street of Abundance, 
Forum, Amphitheatre, etc. An excellent local map 
may be bought on the spot, with the streets and 
houses named, and it will be found indispensable. 
(A single word of warning : the propensity to carry 
off relics from Pompeii is very general, and visitors 
are very closely watched — it is not policy to make 



274 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

the attempt : better buy them — genuine or counter- 
feit — at Naples.) 

Other charming excursions may be made, if time 
allows, to Castellamare (very short, by railway) ; to 
Sorrento (ten miles by carriage from Castellamare) ; 
to Capri (island, very beautiful and famous resort 
for invalids) by boat from Sorrento ; to the ruins of 
Psestum (by railway from Naples to Vietri and 
thence by carriage — whole day for this alone, if at- 
tempted). 

From Naples, take steamer of the French Mes- 
sageries Imperiales (with calls at Civita Yecchia 
and Leghorn and distant view of Corsica and Elba) 
to 

Genoa, on the gulf of the same name — almost as 
well known, throughout the world, as " Genoa la 
Superba " and the " City of Palaces." Though very 
many of the houses of the old nobility have now 
been turned into places of trade and common resi- 
dence, yet the name has not been forfeited, for whole 
streets are yet lined with buildings that are palaces 
indeed and still retaining their aristocratic inhabi- 
tants. Of these 

Palaces, the most interesting are the Palazzo 
Brignole Sale (or Rossi), with many fine pictures ; 
the Doria Tarsi, with interesting reminders of Co- 
lumbus (" native of Genoa ") ; the Doria and Balbi, 
both with pictures ; the Ducale, once the residence 
of the Doges or Dukes of Genoa ; the Reale and 
Pallavicini, both with fine pictures; the Spinola, 
Universita, etc. Of 

Churches, the most interesting is the Cathedral 



IN ITALY. 275 

of St. Laurence, erected in the eleventh century, in 
alternate layers of white and black marble, and with 
a very fine interior and many relics and curiosities, 
among which by far the most striking is the green 
glass dish said to have contained the Paschal Lamb 
at the Last Supper ! 

There is interest, also, in the fine fortifications 
surrounding the city ; in some of the promenades — 
particularly the Acquasola, an esplanade on the old 
fortifications, with view over the gulf; and in the 
Monument to Columbus, an elaborate allegorical 
group, in the Piazza d'Acquaverde. 

From Genoa by diligence (vetturina) occupying 
two days and spending the night at Oneglia — by 
the 

Corniche JRoad, one of the most beautiful in the 
world, literally overhanging the Gulf of Genoa, 
throughout almost all the route, and supplying the 
loveliest of sea and shore views, — to 

JVice, on the Gulf of Genoa, formerly belonging 
to Sardinia but now to France, with some interest- 
ing antiquities, much beauty in location, and a pecu- 
liarly soft climate making it the paradise of invalids. 
Thence by rail to 

Marseilles, on the Gulf of Lyons— the Paris of 
Southern France as Strasbourg is that of Eastern — 
one of the oldest cities of the Mediterranean, found- 
ed by the Phenicians 600 years before Christ. It 
has a population of a quarter million, and a harbor 
said to be able to contain 1,200 vessels ; its fortifica- 
tions, including the works of the islands Pomegue, 
Ratoneau and the Chateau d'lf (the latter immortal- 

24 



276 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

ized by Dumas, in the " Count of Monte Cristo ") 
are very formidable ; its Canabiere, or great prome- 
nade, can show more different nations in a cluster 
than even Constantinople ; and it is, in point of fact, 
the oddest, most thriving, dirtiest half-oriental old 
town on the European continent, besides having 
given birth to that tocsin of revolution, the " Mar- 
seillaise." 

From Marseilles, either with or without the run 
of a few miles, by rail, to 

Toulon, the great naval arsenal of France in the 
Mediterranean, the place of Napoleon's early exploit, 
and the depot of the criminal " galleys," — if to Tou- 
lon, then with return to Marseilles, and thence by 
rail northward to Paris and the French or English 
ports. 

Or, if intending to return to Switzerland and pur- 
sue any of the Swiss or German routes — then by rail 
from Marseilles to 

Lyons, at the junction of the Rhone and the Saone 
— another very old city, now of some 200,000 inhabi- 
tants, and principally noted as the most extensive 
silk manufactory in the world. It has splendid quays 
along the rivers, is a thriving and important city, 
and will be specially dear to every spectator (which 
means everybody) of the "Lady of Lyons." It has 
some Roman antiquities ; some buildings of histori- 
cal importance (particularly the Hotel de Ville, 
where the revolutionists, after the siege of the city, 
planned their horrible atrocities, during the Reign 
of Terror) ; a Museum, with some fine pictures; and 
an out-look, from the tower on the Heights of 



IHT ITALY. 277 

Fourvieres, from which Mt. Blanc, one hundred miles 

distant, can easily be seen in clear weather. 

From Lyons by rail, by Amberienx to Geneva 

and the Swiss and German routes, 

Or, by rail to Paris, etc., from Lyons, 

Or, by rail westward to Orleans, Tours, etc., for 

southwestern France, and the entrance into Spain. 



XIX. 

SHOET TEIPS IN SPAIN. 

The most convenient way of entering Spain, from 
France, is from Bayonne, one of the most strongly- 
fortified cities in France, famous for having given 
birth to that deadly instrument of warfare, the " bay- 
onet," and reached by railway from Paris by Orleans, 
Tours (both fine old cities, with Cathedrals and much 
historical interest), Bordeaux (on the Garonne, the 
head of the Southern French wine-trade, with beau- 
tiful quays and much commercial prosperity, a hand- 
some Cathedral, some Roman remains, a Triumphal 
Arch, etc., all worth notice). 

From Bayonne, by rail, to 

Biarritz, within a few years made famous by its 
becoming the favorite sea-side resort of the Emperor 
and Empress of France, who have a villa (the " Villa 
Eugenie ") here. 

By rail from Biarritz, for a very brief ride to the 
Spanish frontier-town of 

Trim, where the division between the two coun- 
tries is crossed and change of trains is made from 
the French Chemin de Fer du Midi (French Cen- 
tral Railway) to the Ferro Carril del Norte (North- 
ern Spanish). From Iran, passing at the edge of 
the Pyrenees, the tourist will be principally occu- 
pied with going through tunnels (of which there are 



IN SPAIN. 279 

some fifty before reaching Madrid), and in noticing 
that everybody smokes, incessantly, besides enjoying 
something like the same description of scenery, in 
crossings at great elevation, and peepings down into 
awful ravines, while going up the Valley of the Uru- 
mea to Tolosa, — that has been enjoyed in riding up 
the Valley of the Rhone from Culoz to Geneva. By 
Miranda (junction with the Bilbao railway) ; after 
which the first stop of any importance (which should 
be for at least one day) is made at 

Btjegos, one of the finest of old Spanish cities, 
though very damp, cold and windy — for a long time 
the capital of Spain, scene of many of the exploits 
and the " Wedding " of the Cid Campeador, as well 
as of the tragedy of " Count Alarcos." Burgos lies 
on the side of a hill, beside the river Arlanzon ; has 
a handsome Calle Espolon (main street) facing the 
river; a 

Cathedral, commenced in the thirteenth century, 
built in the most elaborate Gothic " renaissance," 
with two pointed towers at the west front and one 
pinnacled at the east, bearing the reputation of being 
almost equal, in both grandeur and elaborate archi- 
tecture, to that of Strasbourg — while within there 
are many splendid side-chapels, handsome monu- 
ments, the old " Coffin of the Cid," chained up 
against a wall, and constantly thronging men and 
women who show the dark eyes and picturesque cos- 
tumes of Spain ; several other handsome churches ; 
and the bones of the Cicl, kept in a walnut urn in 
the chapel of the Town Hall. 

From Burgos by rail to 



280 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Valladolid, very handsomely situated on the left 
bank of the river Pisuerga, at its confluence with the 
Esqueva. Formerly another of the capitals of Spain ; 
and seat of a University of eminence, which still re- 
mains; and notable as having been the death place 
of Columbus. Its principal present attraction is the 
Museum, with some good pictures and sculptures ; 
and it has also the old Royal Palace (decayed) and 
a Cathedral worth visiting. From Vallacloiid by 
rail to 

Madrid, the capital of Spain, standing in the 
middle of a plain nearly twenty-five hundred feet 
above the level of the sea (boasting to be the " high- 
est capital in Europe"), with a population approach- 
ing 800,000, a climate which requires warm wrap- 
ping up for nine months and constant fanning for 
three (French mot with reference to this : " La Ma- 
drid a, oieitf mois deliver et trois mois d 'enfer J '" — 
literally, " nine months winter and three hot enough 
for the infernal regions "), a painful absence of shade, 
and a history of much interest, especially in the 
e'arlier centuries, before Philip II., when it had not 
yet become the exclusive capital of Spain, to the 
disadvantage of the half-dozen former capitals of 
provinces — Toledo, Cordova, Seville, Granada, Bur- 
gos, etc. > 

The fashionable promenade and drive of Madrid 
is 

The Prado, considered among the finest, as it is 
among the largest, public-grounds and afternoon- 
drives, in Europe, nearly two miles long and thickly 
studded with elm-trees; and the centre of the city 



IW SPAIK 281 

and place where Madrid life of all sorts may best be 
seen, is the 

Puerto del Sol, or Central Square, where the most 
infinite variety of characters and costumes may be 
observed, nearly every province having its repre- 
sentatives and no two provinces dressing alike. An 
early visit, of course, is always paid to the 

Royal Palace, an immense and imposing pile, 
built by Philip V., covering a space of 470 feet in 
each direction by one hundred feet in height, and 
considered one of the most magnificent royal resi- 
dences in the world. The interior is said to be es- 
pecially rich in statues and marbles, and in the gor- 
geousness of the throne-room ; but owing to the 
vandalism of some of the visitors, a few years ago, 
no admissions are now granted. A fine statue of 
Philip IY. stands in the gardens adjoining. At the 
southern end of the Palace is the 

Royal Armory (admission on any day by pre- 
senting passports), containing probably the finest 
single collection of old armor, weapons and warlike 
curiosities, on the globe — among the most notable, 
armor worn by Charles V., Philip II., Francis I. (of 
France), Christopher Columbus, Queen Isabella (at 
the siege of Granada), etc. ; with a very rich collec- 
tion of guns and other weapons, a crowned and robed 
effigy of St. Ferdinand, etc. The Naval Museum, 
near, has also many notable curiosities. But the 
greatest of all attractions, at Madrid, is the 

Royal Picture- Gallery, containing undoubtedly 
one of the finest as well as most extensive collections 
in the world — the only collection of works of the 



282 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

great Spanish painter Velasquez, in point of fact, 
being found here, as well as the " Immaculate Con- 
ception " and many of the best other works of Muri- 
llo, and hosts of those of Spagnoletto, of Rubens, of 
Titian, of Vandyke, of Claude Lorraine, of Raphael, 
Correggio, and all the group of great masters, de- 
manding days to give them even reasonable atten- 
tion. (Complete catalogues can be found at the 
doors, and admission can be procured every day.) 
The 

Churches of Madrid are many and mean, as com- 
pared with several other Continental cities. The 
most interesting is the Convent of Atocha, with its 
miracle-working Virgin, and the handsomest that of 
San Francisco. The 

Palacio del Congreso (Congress Hall of Spain), 
Hotel de Ville and other public buildings, are also 
worth a visit. 

A day should be devoted to an excursion, by 
rail, to 

The Escorial) church-palace-tomb of the Spanish 
monarchs, built by Philip II. in fulfilment of a vow, 
and probably the largest specimen of architectural 
bulk on earth, after the Egyptian pyramids. It is 
'ZOO feet long by 564 wide; massively ugly without 
and massively-gorgeous within ; while the royal vault 
chamber, under the high altar, where all the kings 
are buried, in marble sarcophagi with names in gilt 
letters, in niches in the deep walls — may well vie 
with any other attainable spot in its mixed and pain- 
ful lesson. The Sacrista should also be noted, for its 
fine frescoes ; the Dome should be ascended (for those 



IF SPAIK 283 

strong of leg) to obtain the fine view therefrom ; and 
many other objects of interest will be found — among 
others the room where Philip II. died in torture, 
and the Casa del Principe, a perfect toy-house, with 
furniture and pictures, built for Charles IV. when in 
his boyhood. 

A Bull-Fight may be witnessed within almost 
any three days of stay in Madrid, in the Plaza de 
Toros, an amphitheatre in the outskirts — by any who 
are desirous of feasting themselves with a little ex- 
tra-brutality. But it is pleasant to say that the laws 
of Spain do not make it obligatory upon the travel- 
ler that he shall do so before leaving the capital ! 

From Madrid by rail (changing trains at Al- 
cazar), and by Ciuclad Real, with perhaps a dash of 
diltgencia (stage-coach) for a portion of the route, 
as the finishing and running of Spanish railways is 
always a little problematical — to 

Coedova, on the Guadalquivir, once the capital 
of the Moors in Spain, and where the celebrated 
" Cordova leather " used to be manufactured, but 
now in decay and tumble-down, with only a few 
leading curiosities remaining, in the Great Mosque 
with its " Moorish battlements and Catholic dome " 
and its " Court of Oranges " ; the Bishop's Palace, 
also in a state of decay; the ruins of the Palace 
of the Moorish Kings, etc. 

From Cordova by rail to 

Seville, also on the Guadalquivir, famous for its 
oranges, its picturesquely-dirty people (gipsies in- 
cluded — from whom Murillo was said to have drawn 
many of his models), — for the 



284 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Giralda, splendid square Moorish tower, of 350 
feet in height, and one of the most picturesque of the 
works of that race, remaining ; the 

Cathedral, with its massive Gothic architecture, 
its " Court of Oranges," too, its magnificent stained- 
glass windows and many fine pictures, with some of 
Murillo's master-works among others ; the 

Museo, where the wealth of pictures by Murillo 
(native of Seville) is to be seen ; the 

Alcazar, part of an old Moorish palace, now re 
built ; and the Casa de Pilato, said to be an exact 
imitation of Pontius Pilate's house at Jerusalem. 

From Seville by rail, across the beautiful wine- 
producing districts of Andalusia, to 

Cadiz, on the Bay of Cadiz, the great seaport of 
southwestern Spain, its commercial interest oddly 
mingled with the reputation of possessing the most 
beautiful women in Spain — the " dark-eyed girls of 
Cadiz," sung by Byron, Moore, Hans Christian An- 
derssen, and others. It has two tine promenades — 
on the Alameda, and on the fortifications near the 
port, where the sea-view is especially beautiful at 
evening and the crowd of loungers very pictur- 
esque. 

Cadiz (wonderful relief!) happens to have no old 
Cathedrals, Museums or ruins, worth the visiting, so 
that it forms the pleasantest of places for a little 
lounging and sea-coast life, those feminine people 
with the dark eyes, long lashes and passionate tem- 
peraments being kept duly in view ! 

From Cadiz by steamer, through the straits of 
Gibraltar, with views of the wonderful natural and 



m SPAIN. 285 

artificial fortificatioD of Gibraltar, and also of Tan- 
gier, on the Barbary coast, opposite — to 

Malaga, famons for its wine and raisin, lemon 
and orange export-trade, and one of the most impor- 
tant commercial cities of Spain. It has a handsome 
modern Cathedral, a pleasant Alameda for prome- 
nading, and the loveliest of climates for pulmonary 
invalids ; and like Cadiz, it offers no bother of art or 
antiquity, except the ruins of the walls built by its 
Carthaginian founders. 

From Malaga by diligence, by Loja (about fifteen 
hours), to 

Granada, the old Moorish capital, on the Darro, 
lying on a beautiful plain some 2,000 feet above the 
level of the sea, and at. the base of the Sierra Ne- 
vada Mountains. It is very oriental of aspect, es- 
pecially from the minarets which yet remain from 
the Moorish days ; and its climate vies with that of 
Malaga for temperature and healthiness. But of 
course the visit to Granada is principally paid, by 
travellers from all parts of the world, and yet more 
by Americans, familiar with Washington Irving' s 
"Alhambra" and Prescott's "Ferdinand and Isa- 
bella " — to see 

The Alhambra (guide or valet de place necessa- 
ry), the old palace of the Moorish kings, and by far 
the finest Saracenic remain in Europe. All the 
features of this " wonder in the earth " will be shown 
by guide and local guide-book, and any attempted 
enumeration of them, here, would be idle. From 
approaching the entrance, where stands the unfin- 
ished palace of Charles V., the front split by an 



286 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

earthquake and the work stopped in consequence — 
from the Alberca, or Fish-Pond (Bathing-room of the 
Sultanas), through the Repose-room, the Bath-rooms 
'of the King and Princes, the Saloon of La Barca, the 
Saloon of the Two Sisters, the Hall of the Ambassa- 
dors, the Saloon of the Abencerrages, the great Court 
of the Lions — through all these, and others, and 
everywhere, the any lightness of Oriental work in 
marble, the effect of mingled color, the adaptation 
of natural forms (as flowers, snow-wreaths, leaves, 
etc.) to the purposes of art, form a combination of 
beauty and grandeur to which only the one word can 
be applied — bewildering. Hours must be spent in 
wandering through the Alhambra and remembering 
the power, crimes, virtues and sorrows of the race 
who built it ; but days would be better adapted to 
that end. 

Granada has yet other attractions, in the 

Cathedral, a massive structure, of the sixteenth 
century, with some statues and pictures within ; 
the 

Genoralife, another fine Moorish remain, opposite 
the Alhambra and across the deep ravine beside it — 
now belonging to a Genoese nobleman, who has 
never even taken the trouble to visit it ; the Torre 
de la Vela, near the Alhambra, commanding a fine 
view of the architectural wonders ; the Gold- Wash- 
ings in the Darro, where the ladies go on St. John's 
Eve to wash their faces and derive good complexions 
for the year ; the Carthusian Convent (a mile from 
the town), with some good marbles; etc., etc. 

From Granada, return to Malaga by diligence, 



IN SPAIN. 287 

or if preferred, on horseback in somewhat longer 
time, by Albana. 

From Malaga, steamer to Marseilles for return 
northward. 

25 



XX. 

HINTS FOE A SHOKT KOUTE IN THE EAST 

Strictly speaking, the short-trip tourist does not 
make any run to what is called " the East : " if he 
does, he is in danger of moulting his title in the very 
act, and becoming the "long-trip" traveller — -just as 
the Frenchman's little dog, all the value of which 
consisted in his remaining little, would insist upon 
growing to a big dog, and thus spoiled himself. It 
may be, however, that some of those who begin with 
the intention of only making short trips in Europe, 
may change their intention or find themselves dif- 
ferently circumstanced from what they had sup- 
posed ; and it is especially for their benefit that the 
following mere hints and outlines for seeing the most 
interesting portion of the Orient in economic connec- 
tion (time and money, both), is here inserted. 

The most convenient ; point, generally, at which 
the routes before marked out can be departed from, 
is to be found at Venice. From that Italian city, by 
rail to 

Trieste, the most important commercial town of 
Austria, and the successor of Venice to the great 
trade of all that portion of the Mediterranean — lying 
at the head (northeast) of the Adriatic Sea. Its 
principal interest lies in its harbor, where a system 
of canals (devised principally by the Empress Maria 



• m GREECE. 289 

Theresa) supplies the want of natural advantages. It 
has, however, two interesting public squares, the 
Piazza Grande and Borsenplatz; a Cathedral (Byzan- 
tine) of the fourth century ; and what is called the 
Piazzetta (little- place) de Rieardo, where Richard 
Cceur de Lion is alleged to have been confined by 
the Duke of Austria on his return from the Crusades, 
leading to the charming poetical story of his discov- 
ery by the minstrel Blondel. 

At Trieste is to be taken one of the steamers of 
the Austrian Lloyds (a corporation which vies with 
the French Messageries Imperiales and the English 
Peninsular and Oriental Company, in lines running 
everywhere) through the Grecian Archipelago, to 

The JPirwus, port of Athens, from which is 
reached, four miles distant, 

Athens, capital of Greece, and historically as 
well as artistically one of the most interesting cities 
on the globe. Its history is too well known, as 
connected with science, the arts and letters, to need 
even the briefest reference ; and to those who do 
need such reminder, something more than the few 
words of the guide-book would be found necessary. 
Among the most notable of the great architectural 
remains which make Athens the wonder of the world, 
are the ruined Parthenon, or Temple of Minerva ; 
the Acropolis ; Mars Hill (or the Areopagus), where 
St. Paul preached to the u too superstitious" men of 
Athens ; the Tower of the Winds ; the Arch of Ha- 
drian ; the Temple of Jupiter Olympus ; etc. ; while 
no one sojourning any time at Athens, should fail to 
visit the Battle-field of Marathon, in the immediate 



290 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

neighborhood. (Excellent local guide-books, in 
English, can be purchased at Athens, and for any 
stay they will be found indispensable.) 

From Athens, by steamer, through the loveliest 
and most noted of the islands of the Archipelago, — 
by Rhodes, famous as the old seat of the Knights of 
St. John of Jerusalem ; by Patrnos, where St. John 
wrote the Revelation, while in Roman banishment ; 
by Samos, noted in heathen mythology as the birth- 
place of Juno, and also as the birth-place of the 
coveted " Saurian wine " that Byron ordered <; dashed 
down," in his " Isles of Greece ; " by Scio, the largest 
island of the Levant, and one of the loveliest ; by 
Mytilene, the ancient Lesbos, where " Sappho the 
Lesbian" had her birth and home ; by Tenedos, etc., 
through the narrow passage of the Dardanelles, into 
and through the Sea of Marmora, by Abydos (scene of 
Byron's well-known poem, the " Bride of Abydos"), to 

Constantinople, on the European or western 
side of the Bosphorus (Turkey in Europe), the capi- 
tal of the Turkish Empire, with nearly or quite a 
million of inhabitants, and bearing the same relation 
to the East that is borne by Rome to Western 
Europe. It was originally "Byzantium," from its 
Greek founder Byzas ; but had little importance until 
refounded by the Emperor Constantine, and made 
the capital of the Eastern Empire, in the fourth cen 
tury. It has filled quite as large a space in history, 
as even Rome — has been fought over, around and 
about, nearly as much, even in comparison to time, 
as the City of Mexico — has been repeatedly besieged, 
and twice captured: once in 1204, by the Second 



• IF TURKEY. 291 

Crusaders, and again in 1453 by the Turks, since 
which time it has been in Mohammedan possession 
and supplied the Turkish capital. 

Constantinople is considered to be one of the 
loveliest cities, in situation, on the globe, the Golden 
Horn (curved branch of the Bosphorus), forming a 
mao-nificent harbor, and the shaded suburbs forming 
a fine background to the tall sjrires (minarets) of the 
many mosques which have replaced the Christian 
churches. • Within, however, the city is dirty, ill- 
laid-out and badly-built. The old walls still exist, 
with seven of the original forty-three gates; and the 
suburbs of Pera, Galata and Tophana have a certain 
beauty, even near — especially the two former 3 where 
most foreigners reside. 

The leading objects of interest are the Bazaars, 
where Oriental trade may be seen in all its oddity 
and shiftlessness ; the Sultan's Seraglio (outside) ; 
the Mosques of St. Sophia (visited by permission of 
the Sultan, obtained through the Embassy of the 
visitor's nation), of Solyman the Magnificent, Sultan 
Achmet and Mohammed the Second; the Ceme- 
teries, by far the handsomest things connected with 
the city, etc. 

From Constantinople, by steamer, to 

Smyrna, in Asiatic Turkey, the most important 
commercial city in Asia Minor, where, for the first 
time, the Orient may be seen, in its full glory — the 
city squalid, the society and trading - community 
mixed of all Eastern nations, and figs so plenty 
(Smyrna being the great depot of this fruit) that 
they become almost a " drug in the market." 



292 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

From Smyrna, by steamer, to 

Beirut (or Beyrout), in Syria, a very old town of 
no particular present consequence, except as a port, 
though it has historical recollection as the Greek 
Berytus, a noted seat of learning, and also in con- 
nection with the Crusades. 

At Beirut horses and guides will be procured 
across the Syrian plains, two days, to the mighty 
and magnificent 

Ruins of Baalbec, by far the most ponderous and 
among the most interesting of the early architectural 
remains of the East, dwarfing all others in the 
weight of the single stones and the extent of labor 
(some of the wall-stones measure each 30 feet long, 
15 wide and 13 deep !) thrown together in a limited 
space, in the Temple of the Sun, that of Jupiter, 
and the Circular Temple. From Baalbec on, by the 
same mode of travel, to 

Damascus, called the oldest city in the world, 
and founded by Uz, the grandson of l^oah, some 
4,000 or 4,500 years ago ! — alternately the Syrian 
capital of the Babylonians, the Persians, the Ro- 
mans, the Saracens (Arabic Mohammedans) and now 
of the Turks. It is especially noted for its flat- 
roofed houses (for sleeping upon), mean without but 
handsome within — for its beautiful gardens — for its 
bazaars — and as having for centuries produced the 
peculiarly-tempered swords known as the " Damas- 
cus blades," as well as the artistic work in metal- 
polishing known as "damascening." It has, of 
course, a wonderful history, Pagan, Mohammedan 
(through Mohammed) and Christian (through St. 



- m PALESTINE. 293 

Paul) ; and it has an Oriental sleepy magnificence 
peculiar to its air. There are several mosques, with 
the Great Mosque principal and said to contain the 
head of John the Baptist in a gold casket ; and 
there is an old Castle of immense size, with moat, 
etc., but ruined and dismantled within. 

From Damascus, with horses and guides, as be- 
fore, by Banias (Cesarea Philippi), Safed, Capernaum, 
Tiberias, Nazareth (birthplace of the Saviour), Jenin, 
Samaria and Nablous (the ancient Shechem), to 

Jekusalem, the " Holy City," as Rome has been 
called the "Eternal" — with the places held "Holy" 
by all Christians — first among them the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre, on Mt. Calvary, covering the 
spot where the body of the Saviour was laid, as also 
(as alleged) that where He was crucified ; the Gar- 
den of Gethsemane, the Mount of Olives, the site of 
Solomon's Temple, and so many other spots and 
relics connected with sacred history, that a reminder 
of them would be only an insult. That task may 
well be left, in detail, to the guides, who will be 
found quite sufficiently garrulous, in a dozen lan- 
guages. Outside of and near the city will of course 
be visited the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the town of 
Bethany, etc. ; and a more extended excursion, occu- 
pying three days, will be made to the Dead Sea and 
the Jordan where it enters that remarkable and 
thankless lake. 

From Jerusalem to the coast, the way will still 
be pursued with guides and horses, two days' travel 
(stopping the single night at the Convent at Ram- 
leh), to 



294 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Jaffa, on the coast of Syria (eastern end of the 
Mediterranean Sea). Jaffa has a bad harbor, diffi- 
cult of landing in rough weather; and it has no 
other special interest to travellers than the still-re- 
maining (shown) "House of Simoii the Tanner," 
where St. Peter had his vision, instructing him as to 
what was "uncleanness." 

At Jaffa, steamer will be taken to 

Alexaistdeia, in Egypt — at the western mouth 
of the Nile — the seaport and commercial city of that 
nation — founded, as the name implies, by Alexander 
the Great, and splendidly situated between the mouth 
and Lake Mareotis, while a canal connects it with 
the Rosetta mouth. It has two ports — the old har- 
bor, on the west, and the new, on the east, — and 
owes its principal mo*dern importance to the fact of 
being the. landing-place of all the many great lines 
of steamers on the routes to India and to and from 
the different ports of the Mediterranean. Of course 
it has a world of antique history, as the name of its 
founder recalls, as also the fact that it possessed the 
celebrated Alexandrian Library, burned by an igno- 
rant tyrant. It has few curiosities, but some of the 
highest interest, including the celebrated Pompey's 
Pillar, at the south side, near the walls — erected in 
honor of the Ernperor Diocletian, a. d. 296 ; the 
two Cleopatra's Needles, one standing and one fallen 
and partially covered, at the east side, near the sea 
— alleged to have been erected in 1495 e. c, and so 
to be of the ripe age of over 3,360 years ; the Pacha's 
Palace ; Catacombs, etc. A very mixed society will 
be found at Alexandria, but scarcely more oriental 



IN EGYPT. 295 

than at Marseilles, and the city may be said to be 
more than half European. 

From Alexandria by rail, some 130 miles up the 
Nile, to 

Cairo, the chief city and capital of Egypt, with 
nearly half a million of inhabitants and all the Ori- 
ental characteristics exaggerated — no place on earth 
showing a greater variety in the costume of citizens, 
and none more oddity in narrow and dirty streets, 
odd mosques, bazaars, and everything ultra-Mussul- 
manish. Days may be spent in studying it — the 
Constantinople of Africa. 

One of the first visits, at Cairo, should be paid to 
the Citadel, to catch the magnificent view of the 
Nile, the Pyramids, the four hundred mosques of the 
city, the distant desert, etc. Some of the splendid 
Mosques will then be visited — especially the new 
one of Mehemet Ali, the old ones of Tayloon, Sultan 
Hassan, Sultan Kaloon; some of the Palaces — among 
others those of Mehemet Ali and Ibrahim Pacha ; 
Joseph's Well, supposed to have been hewn in the 
rock under the direction of the son of Jacob when 
ruling in Egypt ; some of the fine Gardens surround- 
ing the walls, etc. 

The most indispensable of excursions from Cairo 
is that to the Pyramids, about twelve miles either 
way — made on donkey-back, with guides. Too much 
observation and admiration cannot well be bestowed 
upon the master pile of Cheops, with its two lesser 
companions and six very much smaller ; but there 
is no law in Egypt to compel the ascent of any one 
of them, and some sensible people avoid that exer- 



296 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

cise and its fatigue and extortion. Near the Pyra- 
mids is the wonderful Sphynx ; and not far distant, 
on the Nile bank, are the few scattered rains that 
remain of the once mighty city of Memphis — all 
easily embraced in the one day's excursion. 

Of course the Nile will receive due attention, as 
a river and a terrestrial shower. It is from Cairo that 
all the boating parties start, up the river ; but the 
American short-trip traveller may well content him- 
self with a brief sail or row, and leave the ascent to 
sleepier or more leisurely people. 

Return from Cairo to Alexandria ; then take one 
of the steamers of the English Peninsular and Ori- 
ental Company, down the Mediterranean, to 

Malta, the celebrated Mediterranean island of 
Great Britain, lying about fifty miles southward of 
Sicily — with a most interesting history, especially in 
connection with the Knights, driven away from the 
Crusades, who so long held it against the Turks. Its 
port, Valetta, has a fine harbor, is splendidly forti- 
fied, and shows many remains of the old warlike 
times ; while in the Palace of the Grand Master may 
be found a splendid collection of old arms and tro- 
phies, in the Armory, with many fine pictures by 
Maltese painters ; and these and the Church of St. 
John, the Grotto of St. Paul (near the town) the 
Catacombs of St. Paul, etc., would be certain to fill 
more time than the hurried traveller is likely to have 
at command. 

From Malta to Marseilles, by steamer — ending 
the route, of which it may be said, in addition, that 
it may be very hurriedly made, from Trieste to Mar- 



■ IJST THE EAST. 297 

seilles, in six to seven weeks, but should properly 
require ten to thirteen. 

Or, as may be easily discovered from the number 
of steamers and different lines, trips maybe arranged 
to embrace one or another part of it — with or with- 
out Constantinople — with or without Jerusalem — 
with or without Alexandria and Egypt, etc., if some- 
thing of the East is specially desired and yet the 
pressure on time or means is too great to admit of 
all. 



XXI. 

A FEW USEFUL PHEASES IN FRENCH AND GERMAN. 

The promise was made, in one of the early pa- 
pers of this volume, that a few words and phrases 
should be given, at the close, calculated to render 
an actual assistance in countries of Europe where 
only French or German should, happen to be met. 
That promise is now to be kept, with the understand- 
ing recalled, that no attempt is intended at supplying 
either a "conversation-book" or a glossary — that 
only those few words and phrases are set down, in 
both French and German, with a decent understand- 
ing of which experience has proved that travel and 
sight-seeing can be pretty well managed in the coun- 
tries where those tongues are in use, while without 
them, to say the least, one gets along badly enough 
if at all. It is not to be expected that anything 
here, can render much assistance in understanding- 
replies made: that advantage can only be secured 
by understanding the languages, or acquired through 
continued conversations : to be able to ask for things 
wanted, and direct things necessary to be done, is 
the only rational immediate hope of the mere Eng- 
lish speaker, even assisted by these following pages 
which seem so incomplete and have yet cost such 
extended labor. 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 299 



FRENCH. 



A FEW SIMPLE ETTLES WORTH REMEMBERING, 

1st. The French, i generally sounds like the English e. 
■ 2d. The French e generally sounds like the English a. 

4th. The French 11 generally sounds like the English y. 

5th. The French en generally manages to become a crosB between on 
and ong. 

*?th. The concluding consonant of a word, in French, is ruthlessly sac- 
rificed when the next word commences with a consonant ; but when that 
next word commences with a vowel, the concluding consonant of the pre- 
vious word is not sacrificed but carried over and stuck fast to the other. 

Sth. Le (the) is always masculine ; la is always feminine, and the sex 
of the words they adjoin is understood by them. Les, the plural, however, 
is both masculine and feminine. The first is pronounced as nearly as pos- 
ble like the English luh, the second like lah, and the third lay. 

9th. Be (of), du (of the), and des (of, or of the, plural), are sounded 
diih, deu, day. 

Gth. Eur, which in English sounds as ure, in French leaves out the u 
in sound and is simply er. 

3d. E with an acute accent (e) is always pronounced like a long, as in 
" cote,'''' where the pronunciation is Tcotay ; e with a grave accent (e) is 
always pronounced like the English e in "met," as in " caractere" pro- 
nounced "Tiarackter" with accent on the last syllable ; while e with the 
broad accent (e) is sounded long and broadly, with a cross between Eng- 
lish e and a, as in " tele" pronounced tayt (nearly). 

10th. The French idiom, or arrangement of sentences, is generally the 
exact reverse of the English ; so that when any doubt exists as to which 
of two adjoining words to place first, it is generally nearest safe to remem- 
ber what the English would be, and reverse it. 

11th. The French noun is not perfect, as the English is, without the 
article before it: they cannot say Amerique (America), but VAmerique 
(literally Hie America). 

12th. Generally, the habit of the French language does not permit words 
to be implied, like the English : they must be expressed. 

13th. Be, concluding a French word, is so lightly used that it is little 
more than a roll of the r, and is sometimes scarcely heard at all, as in 
Louvre, quatre, sounded Louvrrr, quatrrr. 

14th. The French qu generally sounds as Jc, as in qui (who), pro- 
nounced Tee. 

15th. The more that words are chopped up, mangled, swallowed, and 
ejected through the nose (like tobacco-smoke by old smokers), the more 
possibility will exist of their being understood by a Frenchman. 



300 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 



MONTHS OF THE TEAR AND DAYS OF THE "WEEK. 



ENGLISH. 


FBENCH. 


PKONOHNCED, 


January, 


Janvier, 


Jhonvay. 


February, 


Fevrier, 


Fevray. 


March, 


Mars, 


Marrs. 


April, 


Avril, 


Ahvreel. 


May, 


Mai, 


Myee. 


June, 


Juin, 


Jhuan. 


July, 


Juillet, 


Jhuelay. 


August, 


Aout, 


Ah-oo. 


September, 


Septembre, 


Septombr. 


October, 


Octobre, 


Octobr. 


November, 


Novembre^ 


Novombr. 


December, 


I'ecembre, 


Daysombr. 


Monday, 


Lundi, 


Loondee. 


Tuesday, 


Mardi, 


Mardee. 


Wednesday, 


Mercredi, 


Mayrcraydee. 


Thursday, 


Jeudi, 


Jhudee. 


Friday, 


Vendredi, 


Vondraydee. 


Saturday, 


Samedi, ■ 


Somdee. 


Sunday, 


Dimanche, 


Deemonshee. 




NUMERALS AND 


ORDINALS. 


One, 


Tin, 


oon. 


Two, 


Deux, 


deu. 


Three, 


Trois, 


trwa. 


Four, 


Quatre, 


Kawtr. 


Five, 


Cinque or cinq, 


sankg. 


Six, 


Six, 


ziss. 


Seven, 


Sept, 


set. 


Eight, 


Hilit, 


w 7 heet. 


Nine, 


Nevf, 


noof. 


Ten, 


Dix, 


diss. 


Eleven, 


Onze, 


onz. 


Twelve, 


Douze, 


dooz. 


Thirteen, 


Treize, 


trayz. 


Fourteen, 


Quatorze, 


kahtorz. 


Fifteen, 


Quinze, 


kanz. 


Sixteen, 


Seize, 


sayz. 


Seventeen, 


Dix-sept, 


diss- set. 


Eighteen, 


Dix-huit, 


diss-wheet. 


Nineteen, 


Dix-neuf, 


diss-noof. 


Twenty, 


Vingt, 


vant. 


Thirty, 


Trente, 


tront. 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 



G01 



ENGLISH. 

Forty, 

Fifty, 

Sixty, 

Seventy, 

Eighty, 

Ninety, 

One Hundred, 

One Thousand, 

One Million, 

First, 
Second, 

do., 
Third, 
Fourth, 
Fifth, 
Sixth, 
Seventh, 
Eighth, 
Ninth, 
Tenth, 
Eleventh, 
Twelfth, 
Thirteenth, 
Fourteenth, 
Fifteenth, 
.Sixteenth, 
Seventeenth, 
Eighteenth, 
Nineteenth, 
Twentieth, 
Thirtieth, 
Fortieth, 



TRENCH. 

Quarante, 

Cinquante, 

Soixante, 

Soixante-dix, 

Quatre-vingt, 

Quatre-vingi-dix, 

Cent, 

Tin Mile, 

Tin Hilton, 

Premier (e, fern.), 

Second (e, fern.), 

Deuxieme, 

Troisieme, 

Quatrierne, 

Cinquieme, 

Sixihne, 

SepUeme, 

Huitihne, 

Neuvieme, 

Dixieme, 

Onzieme, 

Douzieme, 

Treizieme, 

Quatorzieme, 

Quinzieme, 

Seizeieme, 

Dix-septieme, 

Dix-huitieme, 

Dix-neuvieme, 

Yingtieme, 

Trentieme, 

Quarantieme, 

etc., etc., etc. 



PRONUNCIATION. 

karont. 

sankant. 

swassant. 

swassant-diss. 

kawt-vant. 

kawt-vant-diss. 

sawnt. 

oou meel. 

oon meelyong. 

prem-yare. 

se-kond. 

dyoozhee-em. 

trwazee-em. 

kawtree-em. 

sawnkee-era. 

zissee-ern. 

settee-em. 

wheetee-em. 

noovee-em. 

dizzee-em. 

onzee-em. 

dooze-em. 

treze-em. 

katorzee-em. 

kanzee-em. 

seezee-em. 

dissitee-em. 

disswheete-em. 

dissnovee-em. 

vautee-eni. 

trontee-ein. 

karontee-em, 



A FEW NAMES, OF VEEY COMMON OBJECTS AND 
PERSONS. 



The bread, 
The salt, 
Some butter, 
A knife, 
A fork, 
The dish, 



( With different prefixes.) 



Lepain, 
Le sel, 
Bu beurre, 
Tin couteau, 
Tine four chette, 
Uassiette, 



leh pan. 
leh sel. 
deuh berr. 
oon cohto. 
oon forchet. 
F ash yet. 



302 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 



ENGLISH. 

A napkin, 

The eggs, 

Beef, 

Roast beef, 

Some potatoes, 

Oysters, 

Mutton, 

Veal, 

Some pork, 

Some cherries, 

The table, 

Pepper, 

Mustard, 

That church, 

This street, 

The street-corner, 

A bottle, 

The goblet (glass), 

A cup, 

Some coffee, 

A cup of tea, 

A big fish, 

The little dog, 

My soup, 

Your brandy, 

Our cucumbers, 

A spoon, 

The carriage, 

The railway, 

The shoes, 

A pair of boots, 

A coat, 

The trowsers, 

A new vest, 

The waiter, 

The prison, 

The doctor, 

do 
The hotel, 
A si airway, 
Abed, 

The bed-chamber, 
A furnished room, 
A beef-steak, 
A beef-steak well done, 
do rare done. 



FBENCH. 

Une serviette, 
Des o&ufs, 
Le bozvf, 
Bosbif, 

De-spommes cle terre, 
Les huitres, 
Le mouto?i, 
Le man, 
Luporc, 
Quelque cerises, 
La table, 
Le poivre, 
La moiltarde, 
Cette eglise, 
Cette rue ci, 
Le coin de la rue, 
Une bouteille, 
Le verre, 
JJne tasse, 
Du cafe, 
Tine tasse de the, 
Un gros poisson, 
Le petit chien, 
31on potage, 
Voire eau de vie, 
Nos concombres, 
Une cuiller, 
La voiture, 
Le chemin defer, 
Les soldiers, 
Une pair de bottes, 
Un habit, 
Les culottes 
Un gilet nouveau, 
Le garcon, 
La pnson, 
Z<? docteur, 
Le medecin, 
Vhotel, 
Un escalier, 
Un lit, 

La chambre a coucher, 
Une chambre garnie, 
Un biftelc, 
Un bifted Men cuit, 
do saignant, 



PRONUNCIATION. 

oon survyet. 
dez ufe. 
leh beff. 
r-r-oasbif. 
day pom deh tair. 
lez weeter. 
leh mootong. 
leh vo. 
denh pork. 
kelke sareese. 
lah tahble. 
leh pwavr. 
lah mootard. 
set eeglees. 
set reuw see. 
leh quan deh lah roo. 
oon bootyee. 
leh verr. 
oon tas. 
deuh caffay. 
oon tas deh tay. 
oon gro pwasson. 
leh paytce sheeon. 
mon po-tahj. 
vootr o devee. 
no concombr. 
oon koolyare. 
lah Ywateur. 
leh shaman deh fair. 
Jay solyair. 
oon piar day boat, 
oon abbee. 
lay cooloat. 
oon jelay novo, 
leh garsoon. 
lah pre-zon. 
leh docterr. 
leh maydeesan. 
lotel. 

oon cskalyay. 
oon lee. 

leh shambr ah cooshay. 
oon shambr garnee. 
oon biftek. 

oon biftek beyon quee. 
do sagnyong. 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 



303 



ENGLISH. 

Fried potatoes, 

A looking-glass, 

An umbrella, 

Thomas's hat, 

The other horse, 

Wine, 

Some -wafer, 

The comb, 

The window, 

The door, 

A great house, 

The porter, 

Breakfast, 

Dinner. 

Supper, 

A handkerchief, 

The watch, 

A little clock, 

A room, 

Our gloves, 

The shirts, 

A trunk, 

My basket, 

The theatre, 

A theatre-box, 

Reserved seats, 

A seat in the theatre, 

A ticket of admission, 

The porter, 

A chamber maid, 

Meats, 

The baggage, 

An attendant, 

A body servant, 



FRENCH. 

Pommes de terref rites, 

Un miroir, 

Oon parapluie, 

Le chapeau de Tlvomas, 

IS autre cheval, 

Le fin, 

De Veau, 

Le peigne, 

Lafenetre, 

Laporte, 

Tine grande maison, 

Leportier, 

Le dejeuner, 

Le diner, 

Le souper, 

Un mouchoir, 

La montre, 

Une petite cloche, 

Un appartement, 

Nos gants, 

Les chemises, 

Une matte, 

Hon pannier, 

Le theatre, 

Une loge de theatre, 

Places numerotees 

Un place au theatre, 

Un billet d'entree, 

Le concierge, 

Une femme de chambre, 

Viandes, 

Le bagage, 

Un valet de place, 

Un valet de chambre, 



PRONUNCIATION. 

pom de tayr frete. 

oon meerwa. 

oon paraplu. 

leh shappo deh Tomas. 

lotr shayvol. 

leh van. 

dello. 

leh pine. 

lab faynayter. 

lab poart. 

oon grond miyeson. 

leh portya. 

leh dejunay. 

leh deenay. 

leh soopay. 

oon mooshwar. 

lab montr. 

oon patee cloash. 

oon appartmawng. 

no gawnt. 

la shem-eese. 

oon mal. 

ruawng panya. 

lab teeatr. 

oon loaj deh teeatr. 

plass numayroatay. 

oon plass oh teeatr. 

oon beyea dawntray. 

leh consairghe. 

von fam deh chambre. 

veeond. 

leh bahgahzj. 

oon vallee deh plass. 

oon vallee deh shombr. 



QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AND INQUIRIES, OFTENEST 

USEFUL. 

Hallway Travelling, 

[To buy a ticket, etc., at the office.'] 

Traveller. — Monsieur, je desire un billet pour Paris. (Pronounced : Jzhe 
dayseer oon beyea poor Parreese. English ; Sir, I wish a ticket to 
Paris.) 



304 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

TiCKET-SxjjLiiK.— Certainement, Monsieur; qiCelle classe voulez torn? 
{Pro. Sertanmong, Mossiew; kel clahs voolay voo? Eng. Certainly, 
sir ; what class will you have ?) 

Trav. — Qu 'el est le prix des places? (Pro. Kel ay leh pree da pi ass. Eng. 
Wliat is the price of places.) 

Ticket-S.— Les premieres coutent cinquante francs, ei les seconder trente 
francs. (Pro. La prameyer cootont sankont fronk, ay la segond tront 
fronk. Eng. The first cost fifty francs, the second thirty.) , 

Trav. — Donnez rnoi les secondes, s'il vous plait. (Pro. Donnek mwa lay se- 
gond, seel voo play. Eng. Give me the second, if you please.) 

Ticket-S.— Combien de places, Monsieur? (Pro. Combeyon deh plass, Mos- 
siew. Eng. How many places, sir ?) 

Trav.— Une pourmoi settlement. (Pro. Oon poor mwa, soolmawng. Eng. 
One for myself only.) 

Ticket-S.— Void, Monsieur. (Pro. Wahsee, Mossiew. Eng. Here it is> 
sir.) 

[Making Inquiries.] 

Question.— A qu'elle hcure part le train pour Paris ? (Pro. Ah kel oor par 

leh tran poor Parree? Eng. At what hour do&s the train start for 

Paris ?) 
Answer. — Le train part a dix heures. (Pro. Leh tran par tah dee soor. Eng. 

The train leaves at ten o'clock.) 
Qu.— Oii nous arreterons nous pour diner? (Pro. Oo noo sarrayteron noo 

poor denay ? Eng. Where do we stop for dinner ? 
Ans.— A Eouen, Monsieur. (Pro. Ah Euan, Mossiew. Eng. At Rouen, 

sir.) 
Qu. — Combien de temps s'arrete-t-on id? (Pro. Combeyon deh torn sah- 

rayteton esee ? Eng. How long time do we stop here ?) 
Ans. — Vingt minutes d' 'arret. (Pro. Vant meenwheet darray. Eng. 

Twenty minutes of stoppage.) 
Qu. — A quelle Jieure partirons nous? (Pro. Ah kel oor parteron noo? 

Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
Axs. — Pans quinze minutes, Monsieur. (Pro. Dawn kanz meenwheet, Mos- 
siew. Eng. In fifteen minutes, sir.) 
Qu.— Est ce le train pour Dijon? (Pro. Ay see leh tran poor Deejzhon ? 

Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
Ans.— Non, Monsieur; ce train est dix minutes en retard. (Pro. Non, 

Mossiew ; seh tran a dee meenwheet on raytard. Eng. No, sir; that 

train is ten minutes behind.) 
Ans. — Oui, Monsieur ; ce train en droit. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew; set tran 

on drwat. Eng. Yes, sir; that train on the right.) 
Qu. — Changeons nous a la prochaine station? (Pro. Shonjayon noo ah 

lah proshain stahshon ? Eng. Do we change at the next station ?) 
Ans.— Non, Monsieur; le premier change est a Bellegarde. Pro. Nong, 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 305 

Mossiew; leh premya shonje es tab Belgard. Eng. No, sir; the first 
change is at Bellegarde.) 

[ Warnings and Demands.] 

Guard ok Porter.— Monsieur a-t-il oVavantage de bagage ? (Pro. Mos- 
siew ah teel dah vantahzj deh bahgahzj ? Eng. Has the gentleman 
any more baggage ?) 

Trav.— JVon, Monsieur— tout le bagage est dans la voiture. (Pro. Nong, 
Mossiew— too leh bahgahzj ay dawn lah vwahteur. Eng. No, sir— all 
the luggage [American, " baggage "] is in the carriage.) 

Guard. — Vbs billets, Mesdam&s et Messieurs. (Pro. Vo beyea, Maydam ay 
Messiew. Eng. Your tickets, ladies and gentlemen.) 

Guard. — En voiture, Messieurs ! —en voiture! (Pro. On vwahteur, Mes- 
siew 1— on vwahteur ! Eng. Take your carriages, gentlemen !) 

Guard.— En voiture, de suite, Messieurs, s'il vous plait! (Pro. On vwateur, 
deh sweet, Messiew, seel voo play ! Eng. Take your carriages, gen- 
tlemen, in a hurry, if you please !) 

Guard.— Change de voitures, Messieurs I (Pro. Shonjay deh vwateur, 
Messiew I Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen !) 

Taking Carriages and Hiding* 

Trav. — (To Cabman, on stand) Cocher, ete vous libre ? (Pro. Coshay, ettay 

voo leebr ? Eng. Cabman, are you free ? [disengaged.] 
Cabman.— Non, Monsieur, j attends quelqiCun. (Pro. Nong, Mossiew, 

zjabttond kelkoon. Eng. No, sir ; I am waiting for some one.) 
Cabman. — Old, Monsieur— -je suis libre. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew, jeh swee 

leebr. Eng. Yes, sir, I am disengaged.) 
Trav. — Donnez mois voire carte. Pro. Donneh mwa voatr cart. Eng. 

Give me your card — i. e., the card of prices which all French cabmen 

carry with them.) 
Trav. — Je vous 2wends a la course. (Pro. Je voo prand ah lah coorse. 

Eng. I engage you -for the route to which I wish to go.) Or, 
Trav. — Je vousprends a Vheure. (Pro. Je voo prend ah loor. Eng. I take 

you by the hour. 
Cabman. — Ou faut-il vous conduire Monsieur f (Pro. Oo fo teel voo con- 

dweer Mossiew ? Eng. Where does the gentleman wish to be taken ? 
Trav. Au Grand Hotel ; or, an Boulevard Poissonniere,. numero cinquante- 

huit. (Pro. Oh Gron Dotel; or, oh Boolevard Pwassonyer, numero 

sankont-wheet. Eng. To the Grand Hotel ; or, to the Boulevard Pois- 

soniere, number fifty-eight.) 
Trav.— Allez! (Pro. Allay ! Eng. Goon!) 
Trav.— Marchez ! marchez! (Pro. Marshay ! marshay ! Eng. Faster! 

faster !) 



306 SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 

Trav.— Pas si vite! or, AUez plus doucement! {Pro. Pah se veet; or 

allay ploo doosmong. Eng. Go more slowly.) 
Trav. (When getting out of the cab, to have it wait)— Attehdez moi id: 

je vais revenir ; or, je reviens dans quelque minutes. (Pro. Je Vay 

rayvaneer ; or, je rayveeon dawn kelk meenwheet. Eng. Wait for me 

here I will return ; or, I will return in a few minutes.) 
Cabman.— Hon argent, Monsieur! (Pro. Mong arjong, Mossiew ! Eng. 

My money, sir ! 
Tea v.— Void. (Pro. Vwassee. Eng. Here it is.) 
Cabman.— Plus encore le pour boire, Monsieur ! (Pro. Ploo sancoar Ieh 

poor bwar, Mossiew ! Eng. More yet, sir : the drink-money !) 
T-RAY.—Combien de pour boire f (Pro. Comheyon deh poor bwar? Eng. 

How much drink-money ?) 
Trav. — Ce n'est pas possible de payer rien de plus. (Pro. Ce nay pah pos- 

seebl deh paya reeon deh ploo. Eng. It is not possible [for me] to 

pay any thing more.) 
Trav. — Arretez! or, arretez votes, cocker! (Pro. arraytay; or, arraytay 

vous, coshay. Eng. Stop ! or, stop, coachman.) 

Eating and Drinking. 

Orders to Waiters. — Garcon, faites moi servir. (Pro. Gahsoon, fayt 
mwa sareveer. Eng. Waiter, attend on me.) Je desire diner. (Pro. 
Je deseer deenay. Eng. I wish dinner.) Donnez moi du potage a la 
Julienne. (Pro. Donnay mwa deuh potahj ah lah Jzhulion. Eag. Give 
me some soup a la Julienne.) Du rosbif Men cuit. (Pro. Deuh roosbif 
beeyon quee. Eng. Some roast-beef w r ell done.) Du rosbif saignani. 
(Pro. Deuh roasbif sainyong. Eng. Some roast-beef rare.) Du pore 
roti. (Pro. Deuh pork roatee. Eng. Some roast pork.) Du pain. 
(Pro. Deuh pan. Eng. Some bread.) Encore un peu plus de beurre. 
(Pro. Oncoar oon pew ploo deh burr. Eng. A little more butter.) line 
tasse de cafe. (Pro. Oon tass deh caffay. Eng. A cup of coffee.) Un 
verred'eau. (Pro. Oon vayr doe. Eng. A glass of water.) Un verre 
d'eau glacee. (Pro. Oon vayr doe glassay. Eng. A glass of ice-water.) 
Des pomme de terre. (Pro. Day pom deh tayr. Eng. Some potatoes.) 
Une bouteille de vin rouge. (Pro. Oon bootye deh van ruzjh. Eng. A 
bottle of red wine.) Une demi-bouteille de vin blanc. (Pro. Oon daymee 
bootye de van blong. Eng. A half-bottle of white wine.) Apportez 
moi un assiette propre. (Pro. Apporteh mwa oon awsyet proapr. Eng. 
Bring me a clean plate.) Un fricassee de poulet. (Pro. Oon frecasay 
deh poolay. Eng. A chicken fricasee.) Deux cotelets de veau. (Pro. 
Deuh cotaylay de vo. Eng. Two veal cutlets.) Du mouton bouilli. 
(Pro. Deuh mootong boolee. Eng. Some boiled mutton.) Deux ceufs 
frits. (Pro. Deuz ufe freet. Eng. Two fried eggs.) Du ])oissons 
boditti. (Pro. Deuh pwassong boolee. Eng. Boiled fish.) Du pain 
au sucre. (Pro. Deuh pan o sukr. Eng. Some cake.) Du pates de 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 307 

fruits. {Pro. Deuli Pahtay de fruee. Eng. Some fruit pies.) Du mere. 
(Pro. Deuh soocr. Brig. Some sugar.) Le sel. {Eng. The salt.) Un 
autre cuiller. (Pro. Oon otre queelay. Eng. Another spoon.) Une 
assiette, un couteau, unefourchette, et une serviette. (Pro. Oon awsseyet, 
oon coeto, oon forshet et oon sairveeyet. Eng. A plate, a knife, a fork 
and a napkin.) I? addition, sHl vous plait. (Pro. Laddishong, seel voo 
play. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 

Greetings, 

Bon jour, Monsieur. (Pro. Bong joor, Mossiew. Eng. Good-morning, 
sir.) Bon soir. (Pro. Bong swar. Eng. Good evening, when meet- 
ing; and good-night, when separating.) Adieu! (P?v. Ahdeyou. 
Eng. Good-bye.) Au revoir. (Pro. O rayvwar. Eng. Farewell, but 
to return— literally, good-bye for a little while.) J^ai Vhonneur de vous 
saluer. (Pro. Sjay lonner deh voo salooer. Eng. I have the honor to 
salute you.) Permittez moi de prendre conge de vous. (Pro. Permeetay 
mwa deh prondr conjay deh voo. Eng. Permit me to take leave of 
you.) Merck Madam ! (Pro. Mayrsee, Mahdam ! Eng. Thank you, 
Madame !) NUle remer dements, Mademoiselle. (Pro. Meel raymayr- 
shemons, Madmwasel. Eng. A thousand thanks, Miss.) Je vous 
remerci/i, Monsieur. (Pro. Je voo raymayrci, Mossiew. Eng. I thank 
you, sir.) • 

Inquiries, etc 

Pardon, Monsieur ! (Pro. Pardong, Mossiew. Eng. Beg pardon, sir ! 
[always to be used in accosting any stranger or making apology for any 
contretemps. ~\) Je vous prie de mHndiquer cette addresse, etc. (Pro. 
Sje voo pree deh mandeekay cet address, etc. Eng. I beg you to in- 
dicate to me that address, etc.) Bans quelle direction est VEglise de St. 
Boch ? (Pro. Dawn kel derecshon ay layglee de San Eoash. Eng. In 
what direction is the church of St. Roch ?) Ou est situee cette rue f 
(Pro. Oo ay seetuay set roo ? Eng. Where is that street situated ?) 
Qu'elle est cette maison f (Pro. Kel ay set myeson ? Eng. What house 
is that ?) Enface est-ce une maison de modes f (Pro. On fass ay se 
oon myeson deh moad ? Eng. Is that the fashion-shop, opposite ?) 
Be quel cote la Bourse, a droiteou a gauche? (Pro. Deh kel cotay lah 
Boors, ah drwat ou ah goash ? Eng. Which way is the Bourse, to the 
right or the left?) J'ai besoin d'habits. (Pro. Sjayba-swan dabbee. 
Eng. I desire some clothes [in buying].) Quel en est lepnx, etc. (Pro. 
Kel on ay leh pree, etc. Eng. What is the price, etc.) Cest trop clier! 
(Pro. See ay tro share. Eng. That is too dear or high-priced.) 

Finding Interpreter or Guide. 

Je desire un interprets Pro. Sje daseer oon antayrpret. Eng. I wish an 
interpreter.) Jevoudrais un gar con pour me montre les places princi- 



SOS SHORT-TBIP GUIDE. 

pales. Pro. Sjevoodrayoon garsoonpoor montr me lay plass pransee 
pal. Eng. I require a servant to point me out the principal places [of 
interest.]) Je desire un valet de place qui parle V Anglais. {Pro. Je 
daseer oon vallee deh plass ke pari long-glay. Eng. I wish a valet who 
speaks English.) Y^a-t-il quelqu'un id queparle Analais ? Pro. Ee 
ateel kelkoon esee kee pari Ongglay ? Eng. Is there any one here 
who speaks English ? Qui xoulez xous qui m'accompagner adjourd- 
Ji/uif (Pro. Kee voolay voo kee maccompang adjerdwhee ? Eng. 
What do you ask, to accompany me during this day ?) Qui demandez 
xous, etc. (Pro. Kee damandah voo, etc. Eng. What do you demand, 
etc.) 

Entering, Finding .Persons, etc. 

Q. (Knocking or at a door.) Puis-je entrerf or, me permittez xous d'en- 
trer ? (Pro. Pweege ontra ? or, me permeetta voo dontra ? Eng. 
May I come in ? or, Will you permit me to enter ?) A. Entrez ! or 
Certainement ! (Pro. Ontray! or, Certanmong. Eng. Come in, or, 
Certainly.) Q. Monsieur H., est-il a la maison? or, est-il chez luif 
Pro. Mossiew H., esteel ah la myesong ? or, csteel sha luee? Eng. 
Mr. H., is he in the house ? or, is he at home ?) A. Oui, Monsieur, 
Mons. H. est dans sa chambre. (Pro. Wee, Mossiew, Mossiew H. a don 
sah shombr. Eng. Yes, sir, Mr. H. is in his room.) Q. Puis-je le 
voir ? (Pro*. Pweege sje leh vwar ? Eng. Can I see him ?) Or, De- 
mandez lui sPl peut me recevoir. (Pro. Daymanday luee seel peut me 
raysayvwar. Eng. Ask him if he is able to see me.) A. Non, Mon- 
sieur, Mons. H. rCest pas a la maison ; or, rCest pas cJiez lui. (Pro. 
Nong, Mossiew, Mossiew H. neeay pah ah lah myeson ; or, neeay pah 
sha luee. Eng.~No, sir, Mr. H. is not in the house; or, is not at 
home.) Q. A qu'elle lieure rentrer a-t-H ? Pro. Ah kel oor rontrara- 
teel ? Eng. At what hour will he return ? Bemeitez mm carte a 
Mons. H., sHl xous plait. (Pro. Eametta mon cart ah Mossiew H., 
seel voo play. Eng. Send my card to Mr. H., if you please.) 

Language. 

Parlez xous le Erancais ? (Pro. Parlay voo leh Fronsay ? Eng. Do you 
speak French?) Parlez xous V Anglais? (Pro. Parlay voo long- 
glay ? Eng. Do you speak English ?) Y" 1 a-t-il quelqu'un id qui parle 
r Anglais ? (Pro. Eeeateel kelkoon esee kee pari longglay ? Eng. Is 
any one here who speaks English?) 3V entendez xous ? (Pro. Man- 
tanday vous ? Eng. Do you understand me ?) Me comprenez xous f 
(Pro. Me compranay voo ? Eng. Do you comprehend me ?) Je xous 
comprends ires-Men. (Pro. Sje voo comprond tray beeon. Eng. I un- 
derstand you, very well.) Je ne xous comprends pas. (Pro. Sje ne voo 
comprond pah. Eng. 1 do not understand you.) Qui appellez xous, 
etc. (Pro. Cappella voo, etc. Eng. What do you call, etc.) Bepetez^ 
s'U vous plait ; or, repetez, je xous prti. (Pro. Eaypaytay, seel voo 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 309 

play ; or, raypeetay sje voo pree. Eng. Eepeat, if you please ; or, I 
beg you.) Je parle mal de Francais : parlez plus doucement, je vous 
prie. (Pro. Sje pari mal deb. Fronsay : parlay ploo ducemong, sje voo 
pree. Eng. I speak bad Frencb : speak more slowly, I beg you.) 

In Want. 

Je suis tres pauvre ! faites moi du charite, pour V amour de Dieu ! {Pro. Sje 
swee tray poavre : fayt mwa dub cbaritay, poor lamoor deh Deyoo. Eng. 
I am very poor : do me some cbarity, for tbe love of God !) Or, Pour 
Vamour de la tres Sainte Yierge. {Pro. Poor lamoor deb lab tray Sant 
Yairj ! Eng. For tbe love of tbe most Blessed Yirgin.) Tai tres 
/aim/ (Pro. Sjay tray fam. Eng. I am very bnngry.) J'aitresfroidf 
(Pro. S'jay tray frwa. Eng. I am very cold.) J'aitres soif ! (Pro. 
Sjay tray swaf. Eng. I am very thirsty.) J'n'ai pas d"* argent ! Pro. 
Je na pab largbong. Eng. I have no money.) 

In Sudden Sickness or Accident. 

Je suis malade. (Pro. Sje swee mablad. Eng. I am sick.) Je.suis tres 
malade. (Pro. Sje swee tray mablad. Eng. I am very sick.) Jaimal 
a la tete. (Pro. Sjay mal ah lab tayt. Eng. I bave sickness in the 
bead.) Ma jarribe est, cass'ee. Pro. Ma jbomb a cazzay. Eng. My leg 
[or my arm — mon bras, brah] is broken.) Je nous prie de me f aire con- 
duite immediatement chez un pharmacien. (Pro. Sje voo pree deb me 
fair condwee immeedjatemong sbez oon pharmahsbeeon. Eng. I beg 
you to bave me taken at once to a doctor's-shop.) Conduisez moi im- 
mediatement chez un docteur Anglais, Messieurs, je vous prie. (Pro. 
Condweesa mwa immeedjatemong chez oon docter Ongglay, Mes- 
siew, sje voo pree. Eng. Take me immediately to an English doctor, 
gentlemen, I beg you.) 

[For reasons that will be, as the sensational wri- 
ters say, " obvious to the meanest capacity," no at- 
tempt is made at instructing the untravelled Ameri- 
can as to any words or formulas of love-maMng in 
France. Two reasons might be adduced, in case of 
extreme necessity : one, that the writer is totally 
uninstructed on that special subject ; the other, that 
none of his clients are likely to need much instruc- 
tion. At all events, he declines to assume any re- 
sponsibility.] 



310 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

GERMAN. 

The following table of the German vowels and 
consonants differing in sound from the English, 
may aid in understanding the spelling of the pro- 
nunciation, and insure as much accuracy as is possi- 
ble by printed characters. 

A sounds like ah in ah ! or a in father, party ; for example, das glas, 
pronounced dahs glahs. It should be remembered that in the spelling of 
the pronunciation, the ah is not designed to lengthen the syllable, but 
simply to represent the sound of the a. 

E is equal to ay in day, as der, pronounced dayr. It has also the sound 
of the English e in ell, as elfte = elf'ty ; and that of y in tiventy, as erste = 
ayrs'ty. 

I sounds like ee in cheer, as mir=meer, and also as i in pin, as bin = 
bin. 

U is equivalent to oo in poor, as nur = noor. 

Ae or a equals ay in may. It is so like the usual sound of e that it is 
seldom distinguished from that letter.in the pronunciation. 

Oe, or 6 has no equivalent in English. It is like the French eu in feu, 
and approximates very nearly the i in girl, as Mre=hu'ray. 

Tie, or u is nearly like u in avenue, or the French u in lu, as iiber = 
eu'ber. 

Au = ow in how, as haus = Jiowss. 

Eu = oy in boy, as heute = hoy'tay. 

Ei = y in J??/, or <??/ in eye, mee'n = meyn. 

B, at the end of syllables, is pronounced like p, as AaS) = hahlp ; Kalb- 
fleisch=Kahlpfleysh. Elsewhere like the English b. 

D, at the end of syllables, has the sound of t, as wid = oont; gesund- 
heit = gay-zoont'Jieyt. Elsewhere, like the English d. 

G = g in give, at the beginning of syllables, as gut= goot. At the end 
it has a sound between g and Ic. There is nothing like it in English, and 
is represented in the following pages by hg, as vierzig =fear'tsihg. 

J" sounds like y in you, as ja = yah ; jdger =- yay'ger. 

S, at the beginning of syllables, sounds like z in zone, as sein = zeyn. 
Elsewhere like s in son, as maus = mowss. 

V has the sound of/, as von =fon ; vier —fear. 

W is like v, as wenn = ven ; wasser = vahs'ser. 

Z sounds like ts in rafe, as zehn = fe«y«. ; sw = tsoo. 

Ch is pronounced like k, at the beginning of syllables, as chor = Tcore. 
Elsewhere, either like ch in the Scotch word loch, as buch = booch, or, not 
quite so gutteral, as in ich. 

Sch = sh in shine, as jleisch =fieysh. 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 



ill 



MONTHS OF THE YEAR AKD DATS OF THE WEEK. 



ENGLISH. 


GEBMAN. 


PRONOUNCED. 


January, 


Januar, 


Yah'noo-ahr. 


February, 


Februar, 


Fay'broo-ahr. 


March, 


Mars, 


Merts. 


April, 


April, 


Ah-pril'. 


May, 


Mai, 


My. 


June, 


Juni, 


Yoo'nee. 


July, 


Juli, 


You'lee. 


August, 


August, 


Ow-goost'. 


September, 


September, 


Zep-tem'ber. 


October, 


October, 


Oc-to'ber. 


November, 


November, 


No-vem'ber. 


December, 


December, 


Day-tsem'ber. 


Monday, 


Montag, 


Moan'tahg. 


Tuesday, 


Dienstag, 


Deens'tahg. 


Wednesday, 


Mittwoch, 


Mit'vohch. 


Thursday, 


Donnerstag, 


Don'ners-tahg. 


Friday, 


Freitag, 


Fry'tahg. 


Saturday, 


SonnabenoZ ; or 


Zon'ah-bent; or 




Samstag, 


Zahms'tahg. 


Sunday, 


Sonntag, 


Zon'tahg. 



NUMERALS AND ORDINALS. 



One, 


Eins, 


Eyns. 


Two, 


Zivei, 


Tsvy. 


Three, 


Brei, 


Dry. 


Four, 


Vier, 


Fear. 


Five, 


Filnf, 


Feunf. 


Sis, 


Seeks, 


Zex. 


Seven, 


Sieben, 


Zee'b'n. 


Eight, 


Acht, 


Ahcht. 


Nine, 


Neun, 


Noyn. 


Ten, 


Zelin, 


Tsayn. 


Eleven, 


W, 


Elf. 


Twelve, 


Zwolf, 


Tsvulf. 


Thirteen, 


Breizehn, 


Dry'tsayn. 


Fourteen, 


Yierzehn, 


Fear'tsayn. 


Fifteen, 


Funfzelm, 


Feunftsayn, 


Sixteen, 


Sechzehn, 


Zech'tsayn. 


Seventeen, 


Siebzehn, 


Zeeb'tsayn. 


Eighteen, 


AchtzeJin, 


Ahcht'tsayn. 



27 



312 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 



ENGLISH. 

Nineteen, 

Twenty, 

Thirty, 

Forty, 

Fifty, 

Sixty, 

Seventy, 

Eighty, 

Ninety, 

One hundred, 

One thousand, 

One million, 

First, 

Second, 

Third, 

Fourth, 

Fifth, 

Sixth, 

Seventh, 

Eighth, 

Ninth, 

Tenth, 

Eleventh, 

Twelfth, 

Thirteenth, 

Fourteenth, 

Fifteenth, 

Sixteenth, 

Seventeenth, 

Eighteenth, 

Nineteenth, 

Twentieth, 

Thirtieth, 

Fortieth, 

Fiftieth, 



GERMAN. 

Neunzehn, 

Zwanzig, 

Dreissig, 

Vierzig, 

Filnfzig, 

Sechzig, 

Siebzig, 

Achtzig, 

Neunzig, 

Ein Rundert, 

Ein Tausend, 

Eine Million, 

M. F. N. 

Der, die, das erste, 

" " " zweite, 

" " " dritte, 

" " " vierte, 

" " " funfte, 

" " " sechste, 

" " " siebente, 

" " " achte, 

" " " neunte, 

" " " zehnte, 

" " " elfte, 

" " " zwolfte, 

" " " dreizeJmte, 

" " " vier zehnte, 

" " " fiinf zehnte, 

" " " sechzehnte, 

" " " siebzehnte, 

" " " achtzehnte, 

" " " neunzehnte, 

" '* " zwanzigste, 

" " " dreissig ste, 

" " " i)ierzigste, 

" " " fiinf zigste, 



PRONOUNCED. 

Noyn'tsayn. 

Tsvahn'tsihg. 

Dry'sihg. 

Fear'tsihg. 

Feunf'tsihg. 

Zech'tsihg. 

Zeeb'tsihg. 

Ahcht'tsihg. 

Noyn'tsihg. 

Eyn Hoon'dert. 

Eyn Taw's'nt. 

Ey'nay Hill-yohn'. 

Dayr, dee, dahs ayrs'ty. 

" " " tsvy'ty. 

" " " drit'ty. 

" " " fear'ty. 

" " " feunfty. 

" " " zex'ty. 

" " " see'b'n-ty. 

" " " abch'ty. 

" " " noyn'ty. 

" " " tsayn'ty. 
u » u e]f , ty> 

" " " tsvulfty. 

" " " dry'tsayn-ty. 

" " " fear'tsayn-ty. 

" " " feunftsayn-ty. 

" " " zcch'tsayn-ty. 

" " " zeeb'tsayn-ty. 

" " " ahcht'tsayn-ty. 

" " " noyn'tsayn-ty. 

" t; " tsvahn'tsihg-sty 

" " " di'y'sihg-sty. 

" " " fear'tsihg-sty. 

" " " feunf tsihg-sty. 



A FEW NAMES OF VERY COMMON OBJECTS AND 
PERSONS. 



The bread, 
The salt, 
Some butter, 



( With different Prefixes.) 



Das Brod, 
Das Salz, 
Etwas Butter, 



Dahs Broht. 
Dahs Zalts. 
Et'vahs Boot'ter. 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 



313 



ENGLISH. 

A knife, 
A fork, 
The dish, 
A napkin, 

The eggs, 

Beef, 

Roast beef, 

Some potatoes, 

Oysters, 

Mutton, 

Veal, 

Some pork, 

A few cherries, 

The table, 

Pepper, 

Mustard, 

That church, 

This street, 

The street corner, 

A bottle, 

The goblet (glass), 

A cup, 

A saucer, 

Some coffee, 

A cup of tea, 

A big fish, 

The little dog, 

My soup, 

Your brandy, 

Our cucumbers, 

A spoon, 

The carriage, 

The railway, 

The shoes, 

A pair of boots, 

A coat, 

The trowsers, 

The prison, 

The doctor, 

The physician, 

The hotel, 

A stairway, 

Abed, 

The bedchamber, 

A furnished room, 



GERMAN. 

Ein Messer, 

Eine Gabel, 

Die Schilsssl, 

Eine Serviette, 

Die Bier, 

Bindfleisch, 

Gerostetes Bindfleisch, 

Einige Kartoffeln, 

Austem, 

Hammelfleisch, 

Kalbfleisch, 

Etwas Schweinefleisch, 

Einige Kirschen, 

Der Tisch, 

Pfeffer, 

Sen/, 

Jene Kirche, 

Diese Strasse, 

Die Strassenecke, 

Eine Flasche, 

Das Glas, 

Eine Tasse, 

Eine JJntertasse, 

Etwas Kaffee, 

Eine Tasse Thee, 

Eine grosser Fisch, 

Der Meine Hund, 

Meine Suppe, 

Ihr Branntwein, 

TJnsere Gurken, 

Ein Lbffel, 

Die Kutsche, 

Die Eisenbahn, 

Die Schahe, 

Ein Paar Stiefel, 

Ein Bock, 

Die Beinkleider, 

Das Gefdngniss, 

Der Doktor, 

Der Arzt, 

Der Gasthof, 

Eine Treppe, 

Ein Bett, 

Das Schlafzimmer, 

Ein moblirtes Zimmer, 



PRONOUNCED. 

Eyn Mes'ser. 

Ey'nay Gah'b'l. 

Dee Sheus's'l. 

Ey'nay Zer-vyet'tay. 

Dee Ey'er. 

Rint'fleysh. 

Gay-reus'tay-tes Rint'fleysh. 

Ey'uee-gay Car-tof feln. 

Ows'tern. 

Hahm'mel-fleysh. 

Kahlp'fleysh. 

Et'vahs Shvy'ny-fleysh. 

Ey'nee-gay Keer'shen. 

Dayr Tish. 

Pfeffer. 

Zenf. 

Yay'nay Keer'chay. 

Dee'zay Strahs'say. 

Dee Strahs'sen-ek-kay. 

Ey'nay Flah'shay. 

Dahs Glahs. 

Ey'nay Tahs'say. 

Ey'nay Oon'ter-tahs'say. 

Et'vahs Kahf'fay. 

Ey'nay Tahs'say Tay. 

Eyn gros'ser Fish. 

Dayr kly'nay Hoont. 

My'nay Zoop'pay. 

Ear Brahnt'veyn. 

Gon'z'ray Goor'ken. 

EynLeuf'f'l. 

Dee Koot'shay. 

Dee Ey'zen-bahn. 

Dee Schoo'ay. 

EynPahrStee'f'L 

Eyn Bock. 

Dee Beyn'kley-der. 

Dahs Gay-feng'niss. 

Dayr Doc'tor. 

Dayr Ahrtst. 

Dayr Gahst'hof. 

Ey'nay Trep'pay. 

Eyn Bet. 

Dahs Shlahftsim-mer. 

Eyn mu-bleer'tes Tsim'mer. 



314 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE. 



ENGLISH. GERMAN. 

A beefsteak, Eine gerostete Eind- 

fleisch Scheibe, 
Fleisch vollig gar, 
Halb gares Fleisch, 
Gebratene Kartqfeln, 
Ein Spiegel, 
Ein Eegenschirrn, 
JohanrCs Hut, 
Das andere Pferd, 
Wein, 

Etwas Wasser, 
Der Kamm, 
Das Fenster, 
Die Thur, 
Ein grosses Haus, 
Der Pfortner, 
Fruhstiick, 
MittagsmaM, 
Abendessen, 
Ein Schnupftuch, 
Die Taschenuhr, 
Eine Tdeine Wanduhr, 
Eine Feder, 
Uhsere Handschuhe, 
Die Eemden, 
Ein Koffer, 
Mein Korb, 
Das Theater, 
Eine Loge des Theaters, 
Vorbehaltene Sitze, 
Ein Sitz in einem 
Theater, 
A ticket of admission, Ein Einlasszettel, 
A body-servant, Ein Kammerdiener, 
A chambermaid, Ein Kammermddchen, 
Tbe baggage, Das Gepdck, 



Meat well done, 
Rare meat, 
Fried potatoes, 
A looking-glass, 
An umbrella, 
John's hat, 
The other horse, 
Wine, 

Some water, 
The comb, 
The window, 
The door, 
A great house, 
The porter, 
Breakfast, 
Dinner, 
Supper, 

A handkerchief, 
The watch, 
A little clock, 
A pen, 
Our gloves, 
The shirts, 
A trunk, 
My basket, 
The theatre, 
A theatre-box, 
Reserved seats, 
A seat in a theatre, 



PRONOUNCED. 

Ey'nay gay-rus'tay-ty Eint' 

fieysh Shy'bay. 
Fleysh ful'lihg gahr. 
Hahlp gah'res Fleysh. 
Gay-brah't'nay Car-tof 'feln. 
Eyn Spee'g'l. 
Eyn Eay'gen-sheerm. 
Yo-hahn"s Hoot. 
Dahs ahn'd'ray Pfayrt. 
Veyn. 

Et'vahs Vahs'ser. 
Dayr Kahm. 
Dahs Fens'ter. 
Dee Teur. 

Eyn gros'sess Howss. 
Dayr Phurt'ner. 
Freu'steuk. 
Mit'tahgs-mahl. 
Ah'bent-es'sen. 
Eyn Shnoopf 'tooch. 
Die Tah'shen-oor. 
Ey'nay kly'nay Vahnt'oor. 
Ey'nay Fay'der. 
Oon'z'ray Hahnt'shoo-ay. 
Dee Hem'den. 
Eyn Koffer. 
Meyn Korp. 

Dahs Tay-ah'ter. [ters. 

Ey'nay Lo'jay des Tay-ah'- 
For-bay-hahl't'ny Zit'say. 
Eyn Zits in ey'neni Tay- 
ah'ter. 
Eyn Eyn'lahs-tset't'l. 
Eyn Kahm'mer-dee'ner. 
Eyn Kahm'mer-mayd'gen. 
Dahs Gay-peck'. 



QUESTIONS, ANSWERS AND INQUIRIES, OFTEN USEFUL. 

Mailtvay Travelling, 

[To buy a TicJcet, etc., at the Office.] 

Traveller.— Mem Herr, geben Sie mir ein Eeisebillet nach Paris. {Pro- 
nounced. Meyn Hayr, gay'ben zee meer eyn Eey'zay-bill-yet' nahch 
Pah-reess'. English. Sir, give me a ticket to Paris.) 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. S15 

Ticket seller.— Ja, mein Herr. Welche Klasse? {Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr. 

Vel-chay Klahs-say ? Miff. Yes, sir. "What class ?) 
Trav.— Was Tcosten diePldtze? (Pro. Vahs kos'ten dee Plet'say? Eng. 

What is the price of places ?) 
Ticket S.—Pie Ersten Tcosten fiinf Thaler, die zweiten Jcosten drei Thaler. 

{Pro. Dee ayrs'ten kos'ten feunf Tah'ler, dee tsvy'ten kos'ten dry 

Tah'ler. Eng. The first cost five dollars, the second three.) 
Trav.— Geben Sie mir gefalligst eins zweiter Klasse. {Pro. Gay'ben zee 

meer gay-fel'lihgst eyns tsvy'ter Klahs-say. Eng. Please give me one 

of the second class.) 
Ticket S.—Wie vide, mein Herr? (Pro. Vee fee'lay, meyn Hayr? Eng. 

How many, sir ?) 
Trav.— Oh, nur eins fur mich. (Pro. Oh, noor eyns fenr mich. Eng. Oh, 

one for myself only.) 
Ticket S.—Hier ist es, mein Herr. (Pro. Heer ist es, meyn Hayr. Eng. 

Here it is, sir.) 



[Making Inquiries.'] 



Question.— Urn ivelche U7ir geht der Zug nach Paris ab ? (Pro. Oom vel'- 

chay Oohr gayt dayr Tsoohg nahg Pa-reess' ahb ? Eng. At what hour 

does the train start for Paris ?) 
Answer,— Per Zug geht um zehn TJhr ab. (Pro. Dayr Tsoohg gayt oom 

tsayn Oohr ahb. Eng. The train starts at ten o'clock.) 
Qp—Wo halten wir zum Mittag an ? (Pro. Voh hahl'ten veer tsoom Mit- 

tahg ahn ? Eng. Where do we stop for dinner ?) 
Ants.— In Rouen, mein Herr. (Pro. In Eonen, meyn Hayr. Eng. At 

Rouen, sir.) 
Qu.— Wie lange halten toir hier an ? (Pro. Vee lahng'ay hahl'ten veer heer 

ahn ? Eng. How long do we stop here ?) 
Ans.— Zzvanzig Minuten. (Pro. Tsvahn'tsihg Min-oo'ten. Eng. Twenty 

minutes.) 
Qu.— Um ivie viel Ulir gehen wir ab? (Pro. Oom vee feel Oohr gay'h'nveer 

ahb ? Eng. At what hour do we start ?) 
Ans.— In einer Viertel Stunde, mein Herr. (Pro. In ey'ner fear'tell Stoon'- 

day, meyn Hayr. Eng. In a quarter of an hour, sir.) 
Qp—Ist dies der Zug nach Dijon ? (Pro. Ist deess dayr Tsoogh nahg 

Dijon ? Eng. Is this the train for Dijon ?) 
Ans.— Nein, mein Herr ; der Zug geht zehn Minuten spdter. (Pro. Neyn, 

mejTi Hayr, dayr Tsoohg gayt tsayn Min-oo'ten spay'ter. Eng. No, 

sir, that train goes ten minutes later.) 
Qu.— Ist das der Zug? (Pro. Ist dahs dayr Tsoohg? Eng. Is that the 

train ?) 
Ans.— Ja, mein Herr ; der Zug zur Eechten. (Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr ; dayr 

Tsoohg tsoor Rech'ten. Eng. Yes, sir ; the train on the right.) 
Qu—Wecliseln wir die Wagen an der ndchsten Station? (Pro. Vek'seln 



316 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

veer dee Vah'gen aim dayr nayk'sten Staht-zyon'? Eng. Do we 
change at the next station?) 
Ans.— Nein, mein Herr; der erste Wechsel ist in Bellegarde. {Pro. Neyn, 
nieyn Hayr; dayr ayrs'ty Vek'sel ist in Bellegarde. Eng. No, sir; 
the first change is at Bellegarde.) 

[ Warnings and Demands.] 

Guard, ob Porter.— Hat der Herr noch mehr Gepdck? {Pro. Haht dayr 

Hayr noch mayr Gay-peck' ? Eng. Has the gentleman any more hag- 
gage ?) 
Traveller. — Nein, mein Herr ; es ist alles in der Kutsche. {Pro. Neyn, 

meyn Hayr ; es ist ahl'less in dayr Coot'shay. Eng. No, sir ; it is all 

in the carriage.) 
Guard.— Meine Herren und Bamen, Ihre Billete ! {Pro. Mey'ny Hayrn 

oont Dah'men, Ee'ray Bill-yet'tay ! Eng. Gentlemen and ladies, your 

tickets ?) 
Guard.— Steigen Sie ein, meine Herren! {Pro. Stey'gen Zee eyn, mey'ny 

Hayrn ! Eng. Take your carriages, gentlemen !) 
Guard. — Steigen Sie gefdlligst schnell ein, meine Herren! {Pro. Stey'gen 

Zee ge-fel'lihgst shnell eyn, mey'ny Hayrn ! Eng. Please to take 

your carriages quickly, gentlemen !) 
Guard.— Wechseln Sie die Wagen, meine Herren! {Pro. Vek'seln Zee dee 

Vah'gen, mey'ne Hayrn ! Eng. Change carriages, gentlemen !) 

Taking Carriages and Hiding. 

Traveller {to cabman).— Sind Sie unbeschaftigt f {Pro. Zint Zee oon- 
hay-sheftihgt ? Eng. Are you disengaged ?) 

Cabman. — Nein, mein Herr, ich warte auf einen anderen Herrn. {Pro. 
Neyn, meyn Hayr, ich vahr'tay owf ey'nen ahn'der'n Hayrn. Eng. No, 
sir, I am waiting for another gentleman.) 

Cabman.— Ja, mein Herr, ich habe nichts zu tlmn. {Pro. Yah, meyn Hayr, 
ich hah'hay nichts tsOo toon. Eng. Yes, sir, I am disengaged.) 

Tbav.— Geben Sie mir Ihre Karte. {Pro. Gay'hen Zee meer Ee'ray Cahr'- 
tay. Eng. Give me your card — i. e., the card of prices.) 

Trav.— Ich miethe die Kutsche fur den ganzen Weg wslchen ich zuriiclczu- 
legen habe. {Pro. Ich mee'tay dee Coot'shay feur dayn gahn'tsen Vehg 
vel'chen ich tsoo-renk'tsoo-lay'gen hah'bay. Eng. I engage the car- 
riage for the whole route I have to go.) 

Trav.— Ich miethe die Kutsche stundeniveise. {Pro. Ich mee'tay dee Coot'- 
shay stoon'den-vey-zay. Eng. I engage you by the hour.) 

Cabman. — Wohin, mein Herr ? {Pro. Vo-hin', meyn Hayr ? Eng. 
Whereto, sir ?) 

Trav.— Zum grossen Gasthof; or, zur Friedrich Strasse, numero acht und 
funfzig. {Pro. Tsoom gros'sen Gahst-hof; or, tsoor Freed'rich 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 317 

Strahs'say, noo'may-ro ahcht oont feunf-tsihg. Eng. To the large 
hotel ; or, to fifty-eight Frederick Street.) 

Trav.— Faliren Sie! (Pro. Fah'ren Zee ! Eng. Go on 1) 

Teat.— Schneller! {Pro. Shnel'ler! Eng. Faster!) 

T-RAv.—JVicht so schnell, fahrt langsamer ! (Pro. Nicht zo shnell, fahrt 
lahng'sah-mer ! Eng. Not so fast, drive more slowly !) 

Trav. (When getting out of the cab to have it wait.)— Warten Sie hier ; ich 
Tcomme gleich ivieder. (Pro. Vahr'ten Zee heer ; ich koru'may gleych 
vee'der. Eng. Wait here ; I shall return immediately.) 

Cabman.— Mein Geld, mein Herri (Pro. Meyn Gelt, meyn Hayr! Eng. 
My money, sir !) 

Trav.— Da ist es ! (Pro. Dah ist ess ! Eng. Here it is !) 

Cabalas.— JVochmehr, mein Herr—das Tririkgeld! (Pro. JSToch niayr, meyn 
Hayr— dahs Trink-gelt ! Eng. More, sir— the drink-money !) 

Trav.— Ich Jcann unmoglich melir bezahlen. (Pro. Ich kahn oon-muhg'- 
* lich niayr bay-tsah'len. Eng. I cannot possibly pay more.) 

Teav.— Halt, Kutscher! (Pro. Hahlt, Coot'sher! Eng. Stop, coach- 
man !) 

Eating and Drinking. 

Orders to Waiters.— Kellner, bedienen Sie mich. (Pro. Kell'ner, bay- 
dee'nen Zee mich. Eng. Waiter, attend on me.) Ich will zu Mittag 
essen. (Pro. Ich vill tsoo Mit-t.ahg es'sen. Eng. I want some dinner.) 
Geben Sie mir Suppe a la Julienne. (Pro. Gay'ben Zee meer Zoop'pay 
ah lab. Sheu-lee-en. Eng. Give me some soup a la Julienne.) Gerostetes 
Bindfleisch vollig gar. (Pro. Gay-rus'tay-tes Kint'fieysh fal-lihg gahr. 
Eng. Some roast beef well done.) Gerostetes Eindfleisch halb gar. (Pro. 
Gay-rus'tay-tes Kint-fieysh hablp gahr. Eng. Some rare roast beef.) Ge- 
rostetes Schioeinefleisch. (Pro. Gay-rus'tay-tes Shvey' nay -fieysh. Eng. 
Some roast pork.) Brod. (Pro. Broht, Eng. Bread.) Nodi ein wenig 
Butter. (Pro. Noch eyn vay'nihg boot'ter. Eng. A little more but- 
ter.) Eine Tasse Kaffee. (Pro. Ey'nay Tahs'say Cahffay. Eng. A 
cup of coffee.) Ein Glas Wasser. (Pro. Eyn Glahs Vahs'ser. Eng. 
A glass of water.) Ein Glas Eiswasser. (Pro. Eyn Glahs ice-vahs'ser. 
Eng. A glass of ice -water.) Kartoffeln. (Pro. Cahr-toffln. Eng. 
Some potatoes.) Eine Elasche Bothwein. (Pro. Ey'nay Flah'shay 
Roht-veyn. Eng. A bottle of red wine.) Eine halbe Flasche Weiss- 
wein. (Pro. Ey'nay hahl'bay Flah'shay Veyss-veyn. Eng. A half- 
bottle of white wine.) Bringen Sie mir einen reinen Teller. (Pro. 
Bring'en Zee meer ey'nen rey'nen Tel'ler. Eng. Bring me a clean 
plate.) Ein HiiMe? fricassee. (Pro. Eyn Heuh'ner-free-kahs-say.' 
Eng. A chicken fricassee.) Zivei Kalbscarbonaden.. (Pro. Tsvy 
Kahlps-cahr-bob-nah'den. Eng. Two veal cutlets.) GeJcochtes Hani- 
melUeisch. (Pro. Gay-koch'tes Hahm'niel-fieysch. Eng. Some boiled 
mutton.) Zwei gebratene Eier. (Pro. Tsvy gay-brah't'nay Ey'er. 



318 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

Eng. Two fried eggs.) Gekochten Fisch. {Pro. Gay-koch'ten Fish. 
Eng. Some boiled fish.) Kuchen. (Pro. Koo'chen. Eng. Cake.) 
Eine Obst Pastete. (Pro. Ey'nay Opst Pahs-tay'tay. Eng. A -fruit 
pie.) Zucker. (Pro. Tsook'ker. Eng. Sugar.) Das Salz. (Pro. 
Dahs Sahlts. Eng. The salt.) Einen anderen Loffel. (Pro. Ey'nen 
ahn'der'n Luf'f'l. Eng. Another spoon.) Einen Teller, ein Messer, 
ein Gabel, unci eine Serviette. (Pro. Ey'nen Tel'ler, eyn Mes'ser, ey-nay 
Gah'b'l, oont ey'nay Zer-vyet'tay. Eng. A plate, knife, fork, and 
napkin.) Ich bitte um die Bechnung. (Pro. Ich bit'tay oom dee Rech'- 
noong. Eng. The bill, if you please.) 

Greetings. 

GutenMorgen,meinHerr. (Pro. Goo'ten Mor-gen, meyn Hayr. Eng. Good- 
morning, sir.) Guten Abend ; gute Nacht. (Pro. Goo'ten Ah'bent ; 
goo'tay Nahcht. Eng. Good-evening ; good-night.) Adieu ! (Pro. 
Ah-dyu' ! Eng. Good-bye !) Aitf Wiedersehn. (Pro. Owf Yee'der- 
zayn. Eng. Farewell, till we meet again.) Ich habe die Ehre Sie zu 
begrilssen. (Pro. Ich hah'bay dee Ay'ray Zee tsoo bay-greus'sen. 
Eng. I have the honor to salute you.) Erlauben Sie mir mich zu be- 
urlauben. (Pro. Ayr-low'ben Zee meer mich tsooh bay-oor 'low-ben. 
Eng. Permit me to take leave of you.) Ich darike Ihnen, Madam. 
(Pro. Ich dahnk'ay Ee'nen, Mah-dahm'. Eng. Thank ycu, Madam.) 
Ich bedanke mich tausendmal, mein Frclulein. (Pro. Ich bay-dahnk'ay 
mich tow-zent-mahl, meyn Froy'leyn. Eng. A thousand thanks, 
miss.) 

Inquiries, etc. 

Yerzeihen Sie, mein Eerr ! (Pro. Fair-tsey'en Zee, meyn Hayr ! Eng. 
Pardon, sir ! [always used in accosting a stranger, or apologizing for 
any accident.]) Wollen Sie mir wohl den Weg zu dieser Addresse nach- 
weisen ? (Pro. Yol'len Zee meer vohl daynVehg tsoo dee'zer Ad-dres'- 
say nahch-vey'zen ? Eng. Will you be kind enough to show me the 
way to that address?) In welcher Gegend ist die Domkirclie? (Pro. 
In vel'cher Gay'gent ist dee Dohm-keer'chay ? Eng. In what direc- 
tion is the cathedral ?) Wie luisst diese Strasse ? (Pro. Vee heyst dee'- 
zay Strahs'say ? Eng. What is the name of this street ?) Was fur ein 
Hans ist das f (Pro. Vahs feur eyn howss ist dahs ? Eng. What house 
is that?) Ist das gegeniiberliegende Haus ein Modewaarenlager ? 
(Pro. Ist dahs gay'gen-eu'ber-lee'gen-day Howss eyn Moh'day-wah'- 
ren-lah'ger? Eng. Is the house opposite a millinery warehouse?) 
Auf welclur Seite liegt die Borse—zur Bechten Oder zur Linken ? (Pro. 
Owf vel-cher Zey'tay leehgt dee Bur'zay ; tsoor Rech'ten oh'der tsooi 
Link-en ? Eng. On which side is the Bourse— to the right or the left ? ) 
Ich mochte gem Kleider Tcaufen ; was ist der Preis ? (Pro. Ich meuch'- 
tay gern Kley'derkow'fen ; vahs ist dayr Preyss ? Eng. I wish to buy 



A FEW USEFUL PHRASES. 319 

some clothes ; what is the price ?) Das ist zu fheuer. (Pro. Dahs ist 
tsoo toy'er. Etig. That is too dear.) 

[Finding mi Interpreter or Guide.] 

Ich branche einen Dolmetscher. (Pro. Ich brow'chay ey'nen Doll-met' slier. 
Eng. I want an interpreter or guide.) Ich brauche einen Bedienten 
■um mir die interessanten Platze nachzuiveisen. (Pro. Ich brow'chay 
ey'nen Bay-deen'ten, oom meer dee in-tay-res-sahn'ten Plet'tsay nahch- 
tsoo-vey'zen. Eng. I require a servant to point out to me the places 
of interest.) Ich will einen Diener haben zvelcher Englisch spricht. (Pro. 
Ich vill ey'nen Dee'ner hah'ben vel'cher Ayng'lish spricht. Eng. I re- 
quire a valet who speaks English.) Ist Jemand hier welcher Eranzo- 
sisch spricht f (Pro. Ist Yay'mahnt heer vel'cher Frahn-tseu-zish 
spricht? Eng. Is there any one here who speaks French ?) Wie viel 
fordern Sie mich heute zu begleiten? (Pro. Yee feel for'dern Zee mich 
hoy'tay tsoo bay-gley'ten ? Eng. What do you ask to accompany me 
to-day ?) 

Entering, Finding Persons, etc, 

Q,u. (Knocking at a door.) — Par/ ich eintreten f or, Erlauben Sie class ich 
eintreten darf? (Pro. Dahrf ich eyn-tray'ten ? or, Er-low'ben Zee 
dahs ich eyn-tray'ten dahrf? Eng. May I come in? or, will you per- 
mit me to enter?) Ans. Treten Sie ein! or, gewiss! (Pro. Tray 'ten 
Zee eyn ; or, gay-viss ! Eng. Come in ! or, certainly !) Qxx. Ist Herr 
H. zu Hausef (Pro. Ist Hayr H. tsoo How'zay. Eng. Is Mr. H. at 
home ?) Ans. Ja, mein Herr, Herr H. ist in seinem Zimmer. (Pro. Yah, 
meyn Hayr, Hayr H. ist in zey'nem Tsim'mer. Eng. Yes, sir, Mr. H. 
is in his room.) Qu. Kann ich ihn sehen ? (Pro. Kahn ich een zayhm ? 
Eng. Can I see him ?) Fragen Sie ihn ob er mich empfangen will ? 
(Pro. Frah'gen Zee een op ayr mich emp-fahng'en vill. Eng. Ask 
him whether he will see me?) Ans. JVein, mein Herr, Herr H ist 
nicht zu Hause. (Pro. Neyn, meyn Hayr, Hayr H. ist nicht tsoo 
How'zay. Eng. No, sir, Mr. H. is not at home.) Qrj. Wann wird er 
erwartet ? (Pro. Vahn virt ayr er-vahr'tet ? Eng. When do you 
expect him ?) Geben Sie ihm meine Karte. (Pro. Gay'ben Zee eem 
mey'nay Cahr'tay. Eng. Give him my card.) 

Language. 

Sprechen Sie Deutsch t (Pro. Spre'chen Zee Doytsh ? Eng. Do you speak 
German?) Sprechen Sie Englisch ? (Pro. Spre'chen Zee Ayng'lish ? 
Eng. Do you speak English ?) Verstehen Sie mich ? (Pro. Fer-stay'en 
Zee mich? Eng. Do you understand me ?) Ich verstehe Sie sehr gut. 
(Pro. Ich fer-stay'ay Zee zayr goot. Eng. I understand you Aery 



320 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

well.) Ich verstehe Sie nicht. (Pro. Ich fer-stay'ay Zee nicht. Eng. 
I do aot understand you.) Wie heisst das ? (Pro. Vee heysst dahs ? 
Eng. What is this called ?) Wiederholen Sie das, wenn ich bitten darf. 
(Vee'dayr-hoh'len Zee dahs, yen ich bit'ten dahrf. Eng. Kepeat that, 
if you please.) Ich spreche nur wenig Deutsch ; seien Sie so gut und 
sprechen Sie langsamer. (Pro. Ich spre'chay noor vay'nihg Doytsh ; 
zey'en Zee zoh goot oont spre'chen Zee lahng'sah-mer. Eng.'l speak 
hut little German ; be so kind as to speak more slowly.) 

In Want. 

Ich bin sehr arm/ Geben Sie mir ein Almosen, um Goiteswillen ! (Pro. 
Ich bin zayr ahrm ! Gay^en Zee meer eyn Ahl'mo-zen, oom Got'tes- 
vil'len ! Eng. I am very poor, give me some charity for the love of 
God!) Or, ZTm der heiligen Jungfrau willen. (Pro. Oom dayr hey 'lee- 
gen Yoong'frow vil'len. Eng. For the sake of the Blessed Virgin.) 
Ich bin sehr hungng. (Pro. Ich bin zayr hoong'rihg. Eng. I am very 
hungry.) Mir ist sehr halt. (Pro. Meer ist zayr kahlt. Eng. I am 
very cold.) Ich bin sehr durstig. (Pro. Ich bin zayr doors'-tihg. 
Eng. I am very thirsty.) Ich habe Jcein Geld. (Pro. Ich hah'-bay keyn 
Gelt. Eng. I have no money.) 

In Sudden Sickness or Accident. 

Ich bin JcranJc. (Pro. Ich bin krahnk. Eng. I am sick.) Ich bin sehr 
Tcranlc. (Pro. Ich bin zayr krahnk. Eng. I am very sick.) Ich habe 
Kopfweh. (Pro. Ich hah'bay Kopf-vay. Eng. I have a headache.) 
Ich habe mir das Bein — den Arm zerbrochen. (Pro. Ich hah'bay meer 
dahs Beyn — dayn Ahrm tser-broch'en. Eng. I have broken my leg — 
my arm.) Ich Mite Sie, fiihren Sie mich gleich zu einem Arzt. (Pro. 
Ich bit'tay Zee, feu'ren Zee mich gleych tsoo ey'nem Ahrtst. Eng. I beg 
you to take me immediately to a physician.) Fiihren Sie mich zu 
einem englisclien DoMor. (Pro. Feu'ren Zee mich tsoo ey'nem ayng'lish- 
en Doc-tor. Eng. Take me to an English doctor.) 



XXII. 

EUEOPEAN MONEY IN AMEEICAN COIN. 

[Oisxy two kinds of money (apart from. Bank of 
England notes, drafts, and letters of credit) are likely 
to he carried over to Europe by Americans. These 
are English and French gold — English preferable, 
except on going direct to France, and then quite as 
convenient. And it so happens that the English and 
French, extensively used all over Europe (especially 
the French, on the Continent), are the only ones of 
the value of which any correct idea can be briefly 
given, though an attempt will be made to indicate 
the worth, in dollars and cents (gold) of the more 
common kinds of German, Italian, etc. American 
money — eA r en American gold — it is scarcely neces- 
sary to say, is not familiarly known in Europe.] 



English. 

Sovereign (gold) $4 83 

Guinea (calculation — no coin) 5 07 

Half-Sovereign (gold) 2 41 

Crown (silver) 1 20 

Half-Crown (silver) 60 

Florin (silver — two shillings) 46 

Shilling (silver) 23 

Sixpence (silver) 11J 

Fourpence (silver) * 1\ 

Penny (copper) If 

Half-penny (copper) : £ 

Note.— English Bank of England notes are equally current with English 
jold. in France and over much of the Continent. 



322 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

French. 

Double Napoleon (gold) $7 72 

Napoleon (gold) 3 86 

Half-Napoleon (gold) 1 93 

Five Francs (gold or silver) 95 

Franc (silver) 19 

Half-Franc (silver) 9| 

Twenty-Centime piece (base) 3§. 

Two Sous (copper) 2 

Sou (copper) 1 

Note.— The French franc is divided into imaginary hundredths, as the 
American dollar into cents, and all smaller calculations are made in these 
hundredths, or " centimes," though there is no coin to represent the unit. 
The half-franc is of course fifty centimes ; the twenty-centime piece is one- 
fifth of a franc; and the sou is always five centimes ; and twenty sous 
make the franc. 

Swiss, 

Same in value, and nearly same in appearance, as the French— Napole- 
ons, francs, sous, centimes ; but can be readily distinguished from the 
French coins by the Swiss cross and word "Helvetia," which they bear. 

Belgian. 

Francs and centimes— same in value and reckoning as in France and 
Switzerland. 

G-erman. 

Note. — There is such an " infinite variety " and abominable mixture and 
uncertainty in the German money, that Tom Hood had no way to get out 
of the trouble, as he crossed from one petty state to another, except 
always to throw away his change. The tourist cannot be expected to 
practise that costly amusement, but must experience his " little difficulty." 
No more can be done, here, practically, than to mention a few values, with 
the countries where the coins originate : 

Five Gulden— gold (Baden) $2 06 

Crown — silver " 1 10 

Florin— " " 40 

Twenty Kreutzer— base (Baden) 10 

Ten Kreutzer — " " 05 

Double Frederick— gold (Prussia) 8 00 

Frederick— gold " 4 00 

Ten Guilders— gold (Central Germany) 4 00 

Five Guilders " " 2 00 

Guilder— silver " 40 

Guilder " (Holland) 371 

Double Ducat— gold (Germany) 4 56 



EUROPEAN MONEY. 323 

Ducat— gold (Germany) &2 oq 

Thaler— silver (SaxoDy) .-. .'"'*" '.''.'". .'.'.'. i oo 

" " (Prussia) \ i™ 

Eix Dollar— silver (Austria and Tyrol) 1 00 

Florin " « 50 

Ten Thalers— gold (Brunswick) '.'.'.'.'.'.'. 8 00 

" " (Hanover) ."■ 8 00 

Thaler— silver (Brunswick or Hanover) 80 

Italian. 

Twenty Lira— gold (Sardinia) q on 

TenLira » " .. . f gX 

Five Lira— silver " ok 

Lira » « :.;::::;::: ?§ 

Half-Lira " " qi 

Quarter-Lira— base " .'.'..*......."..' fl 

Lira— silver (Venice— larger in proportion) '.'.*. 17* 

Sequin— gold (Tuscany) ' " ' 2 30 

Scudo— gold or silver (Tuscany) \\\ j jq 

Paul— silver (Tuscany— larger and smaller in proportion) 11 

Crazia— copper " ' -ix 

Quatrino " ll f 

Ten Scudi— gold (Eome) .:"!!."!." 10 no* 

Scudo— silver or gold (Rome) 1 00 



Paul— silver 



10 



Grosso — base " k 

Baioque — copper " ............"."."." 1 

Half-Baioque— copper " a 

Ducato— silver (Naples) .'."'"' oi 3 

Piastra " « Si 

Carlina " " .'.'.'.'.'.'. gi 

Grano— copper " | 

4 

Turkish. 

Twenty Piastres 1 na 

Piastre. 1 °^ 

Five Paras ............* o* 

28 



ALPHABETICAL PLACE-AND-ROUTE 



INDEX. 



Alexandria to Marseilles, 31. 
Arran (Isle of), 70. 
Ailsa Craig, 70. 
Alderney (Island), 73. 
Ayr, 99. 

Ardcheanocrochan, 104. 
Aberfoil (Clachan of), 104. 
Abbotsford, 117. 

" ronte to from Edinburgh, 117. 
Ambleside, 138. 
Alnwick Castle, 157. 
Argues (Castle), 162. 
Amberieux, 184. 
Aar (river), 197. 
Alpnach, 200. 
Aix-la-Chapelle, 220. 
Antwerp, 223. 
Augsburg, 227. 
Alps, Across tbe : 

Mont Cenis Eoute, 232. 

St. Bernard Eoute, 234. 

St. Gotthard Eoute, 238. 

Simplon Eoute, 241. 
Aosta, 236. 
Altorf, 237. 
Andermatt, 239. 
Arona, 242. 
Athens, 289. 

" to Constantinople, 290. 
Alexandria, 294. 

" to Cairo, 295. 

' ' down tbe Mediterranean to 
Malta, 296. 

B 

Bombay to Suez and Alexandria, 31. 

Ballycotton (light). 63. 

Bell Buoy (Liverpool), 65. 

Beachy Head, 68. 

Bute (Island), 71. 

Brodick, 71. 

Brest, 72. 

Blarney Castle, etc., 84. 

Bog of Allen (The), 89. 

Boyne Water, 93. 



Belfast, 93. 

" to Giant's Causeway, 94. 
Ballycastle, 94. 
Burns Neighborhood, 100. 
Balloch, 101. 
Ben Lomond, 101. 

" Venu, 103. 

" A'an, 103. 

" Ledi, 105. 
Bannockburn, 106. 
Ben Nevis, 109. 
Berwick, 117, 157. 
Bowness, 137. 
Birmingham, 142. 
Brighton, 152. 

British Channel (Crossings), 159. 
Bourg, 184. 
Bellegarde, 185. 
Berne, 197. 

" to Interlaken, 197. 
Bernese Oberland, 197. 
Brienz, 200. 
Brunig Pass, 200. 
Bale, 202. 

" to Strasbourg, 204. 
Baden-Baden, 206. 

" to Heidelberg and down 

the Ehine, 210. 
Black Forest (The), 208. 
Bruchsal, 211. 
Bingen, 215. 
Bonn, 218. 
Brussels, 222. 

" to Antwerp, 223. 
Bruges, 224. 
Bregenz, 226. 
Berlin, 229. 

" to Hamburg, etc., 229. 
Bellinzona, 240. 
Brieg, 241. 
Brescia, 251. 
Bologna, 257. 
Bayonne, 278. 
Biarritz, 278. 
Burgos, 279. 
Beirut, 292. 
Baalbec, 292. 



INDEX. 



325 



Cape Eace, 58. 
Chebuctoo Head (N. S.), 59. 
Cape Clear, 61. 
Crookhaven, 62. 
Cove of Cork, 63. 
Conigsbeg (light), 63. 
Cowes, 67. 

Cantire (Mull of), 70. 
Cumbrag Islands, 71. 
Cape La Hogue, 73. 
Cherbourg, 73. 
Cape Levi, 73. 

" Barfleur, 73. 

" La Hague, 73. 

" LaHeve, 73. 
CORK, 88. 

" to Killarney, 84. 
Cloyne, 84. 
Charleville, 89. 
Carrickfergus, 94. 
Cushendall, 94. 
Coleraine, 95. 
Coilantogle Ford, 105. 
Callandar, 105. 
Carabuskennetk Abbey, 107. 
Crinan Canal, 108. 
Crianlarich, 109. 
Caledonian Canal, 109. 
Craigmillar Castle, 117. 
Chester, 121. 
Crewe, 123. 
Coventry, 143. 
Charlecote Hall, 148. 
Cheltenham, 152. 
Culoz, 185. 
Chillon (Castle), 188. 
Chamounix (Excursion to), 190. 
Colmar, 204. 
Carlsruhe, 211. 
Coblentz, 216. 
Cologne, 219. 

" to Paris, Eoute I., 219. 
" to Channel, Route II., 221. 
Charleroi, 221. 
Compeigne, 221. 
Civita Vecchia, 262. 
Corniche Eoad (The), 275. 
Cordova, 283. 
Cadiz, 284. 
Constantinople, 290. 

" to Smyrna, 291. 

Cairo, 295. 

" Excursion to Pyramids, Mem- 
phis, etc., 295. 



D 



Dursey Island, 60. 
Daunt 1 s Eock, 62. 



Dungeness, 68. 
Dover, 68. 
Downs (The), 68. 
Deal, 69. 
Dunoon, 72. 
Dublin, 89. 

" to Holyhead, 92. 

" to Belfast, 93. 

" Giants 1 Causeway, 93. 
Dargle (river), 92. 
Drogheda, 93. 
Dundalk, 93. 
Doon (river), 100. 
Dumbarton Castle, 101. 
Dunblane, 105. 
Doune Castle, 107. 
Dalkeith (Palace), 116. 
Dalhousie Castle, 117. 
Dryburgh Abbey, 117. 
Dee (river), 121. 
Doncaster, 156. 
Dunbar, 158. 
Dover to Calais, 159. 
Dieppe, 162. 
Dijon, 184. 

Drachenfels (The), 217. 
Dresden, 228. 

" to Berlin, 229. 
Domo d'Ossola, 242. 
Damascus, 292. 

" to Jerusalem, 293. 
Dead Sea, 293. 



E 



Eddystone Lighthouse, 66. 
Edinburgh, 110. 

" Castle, 114. 

" Excursions from, 116. 

11 to Berwick and London, 117. 
Eaton Hall, 123. 

England to Scotland (routes), 154. 
Ehrenbreitstein, 216. 



F 



Fastnet Eock, 61. 
Folkestone, 68. 
Firth of Clyde, 71. 
Fingal's Cave, 108. 
Furness Abbey, 140. 
Folkestone to Boulogne, 159. 
Fontainebleu, 183. 
Freybourg, 196. 
Frankfort-on-the-Maine, 212. 

" to Wiesbaden and May- 
ence, 213. 
Fluellen, 238. 
Ferrara, 257. 
Florence, 259. 



32G 



INDEX. 



Florence, excursion to Vallom- 

brosa, 261. 
Fiesole, 261. 



G 

Great Orme's Head, 64. 
Gosport, 67. 
Glengall Head, TO. 
Greenock, 72. 
Guernsey ( Island), 73.. 
Giants 1 Causeway (The), 94 
" to Londonderry, 95. 
Glasgow, 97. 

to Ayr, 99. 



to Edinburgh, by ) 1Q1 



107. 



the Trossachs, 
to Edinburgh, by 1 
Oban, Caledo- ! 
nian Canal and 
Inverness, 
Glenfinlass, 104. 
Grampians, 109. 
Grasmere, 138. 
Guy's Cliff, 145. 
Geneva, 185. 

" to Chamounix, 190. 
" to Berne, etc., 195. 
Grindelwald (Glaciers). 198. 
Geissbach (Falls). 199. 
Ghent, 224. 
Genoa, 274. 

" to Marseilles, 275. 
Granada, 285. 

" Alhambra, 285. 
il to Malaga & Marseilles, 287. 
Gibraltar (Straits), 284. 

H 

Hong Kong to Bombay, 31. 
Halifax Harbor, 59. 
Hook Tower (Light), 63. 
Holyhead, 64. 
Holy Isle, 71. 
Havre, 73. 
Howth (Hill of), 89. 
Hawthornden, 116. 
Hastings, 153. 
Heidelberg, 211. 

to Frankfort, 212. 
Hamburg, 229. 
Herculaneum, 273. 



Isle of Wight, 153. 
Instrahull, 70. 
Innishowen Head, 70. 



Inversnaid, 102. 

Iona, 108. 

Inverness, 109. 

Interlaken, 197. 

" to Lucerne, etc., 200. 

Innspruck, 226. 

" to Munich, etc., 227. 

Iran, 278. 

Isles of Greece (Rhodes, 1 

Patmos, Samos, Scio, Lv^ 
Mytilene, Tenedos, *' 
Abydos, etc.), 



Jersey (Island), 73. 
Jungfrau (The), 197. 
Jerusalem, 293. 

" to Jaffa, 293. 

Jordan (river), 293. 
Jaffa, 294. 
" to Alexandria, 294. 



K 

Kinsale (Old Head), 62. 
Kilbranna Sound, 70. 
KylesofBute, 71. 
Kinnoul (Mull of), 70. 
Killarney (Lakes, etc.), 85. 

" to Dublin, 88. 
Kildare (Curragh), 89. 
Kingstown, S9. 
Kew, 131. 
Kendal, 136. 
Kenilworth, 144. 

' Castle, 144. 
Kussnacht, 201. 
Kehl, 206. 



Le Have (Nova Scotia), 59. 
Liverpool (Nova Scotia), 59. 
Lee (river), 63. 
Lizard Head, 66. 
Lamlash (harbor), 71. 
Limerick Junction, 89. 
Liffey (river), 91. 
Lisburn, 93. 
Lame, 94. 
Londonderry, 95. 

" to Belfast, 96. 

Loch Lomond, 101. 
Luss, 102. 
Loch Arklett, 102. 

" Katrine, 102. 

" Achray, 104. 

" Vennochar, 104. 



INDEX. 



327 



Lanrick Mead, 104, 
Leith, 107. 
Loch Linnhe, 109. 
" Lochy, 109, 
" Ness, 109. 
Liverpool, 118. 

'.' to Cumberland Lakes, 136. 

" to London, 123. 

" to Chester, 121. 

" to Shakspeare Neighbor- 
hoods, 141. 

" to Birmingham, 141. 

" to Coventry, 141. 

" to Manchester and Shef- 
field, 150. 

" to Glasgow, 155. 

" to Edinburgh, 155. 

" Docks, 119. 
London, 123. 

" to Paris, 155. 

" to Edinburgh, 155. 

" Tower of, 127. 

" Excursions from, 134. 
Lancaster, 136. 
Leamington, 149. 
Llandudno, 153. 
Lausanne, 195. 
Lauterbrunnen (Fall), 198. 
Lake of Brienz, 199. 
Lucerne (and Lake), 200. 

" to the Rhigi, 201. 

'! to Bale, 202. 
Liege, 220. 
Lille, 225. 
Liddes, 234. 

Lake of the Canton Fri, 238. 
Lake Maggiore, 246. 
" Como, 249. 
" Garda, 251. 
Lucca, 261. 
Leghorn, 262. 
Lyons, 276. 

" to Geneva, Paris, etc., 277. 



31 

Mizen Head, 62. 

Mine Head (licrht), 63. 

Margate, 69, 153. 

Malta Head, 70. 

Moville, 70. 

Mallow, 85. 

Mucross Abbey, 87. 

Melrose Abbey, 117. 

Manchester, 150. 

Marston Moor, 156. 

Macon, 184. 

Mont Blanc, 185. 186, 189, 190-195. 

Martigny, 191, 234. 

Mayence, 213. 

Munich 227. 



Mont Cenis, 233. 

" Tunnel, 233. 

Magadino, 246. 
Milan, 246. 

" Duomo, 247. 
Mantua, 253. 
Marseilles, 275. 

" to Toulon, Paris, etc., 276. 
Madrid, 280. 

" Excursion to Escorial, 282. 
" to Cordova, 283. 
Malaga, 285. 

" to Granada, 285. 
Memphis, 295. 
Malta, 296. 

" to Marseilles, 296. 



N 



New York to Panama, 30. 
Needles (The), 67. 
North Foreland (The), 69. 
Nore (The), 69. 
Naas, 89. 
Newry, 93. 

Newbattle Abbey, 117. 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 157. 
Newhaven to Dieppe, 159. 
Newhaus, 197. 
Namur, 221. 
Nuremberg, 227. 
Novara, 246. 
Naples, 270. 

" excursion to Pompeii and 
Herculaneum, 273. 

" excursion to Vesuvius, 272. 

" Bay of, 272. 

" to Genoa, 274. 
Nice, 275. 
Nile (river), 295. 



O 



Oban, 108. 
Oxenholme, 136, 
Ostend, 225. 



Panama to San Francisco, 30. 
Point de Galle, 31. 
Point Lynas, 64. 
Portland Bill, 67. 
Portsmouth, 67. 
Portarlington, 89. 
Portrusb, 95. 
Paisley, 99. 
Preston, 136. 
Peterborough, 156. 



328 



INDEX. 



Paris, 165. 

" to Geneva, 183. 
Pilatus (Mont), 200. 
Pescliiera, 251. 
Padua, 254. 
Pistoja, 258. 
Pisa, 261. 
Pompeii, 273. 
Pyramids (The), 295. 



Queenstown (harbor), 62. 
Queenstown, 81. 



R 

Roche's Point, 62. 

Ramsgate, 69, 153. 

Rathlin Island, 70. 

Rosslyn (Castle), 116. 

Rugby, 149. 

Rydal Mount, 139. 

Rhyl, 153. 

Rouen, 163. 

Rhone (river and valley), 184. 

Romont, 196. 

Rhigi (The), 201, 202. 

Rastadt, 211. 

Rhine (Down the), 214. 

Rolandseck, 217. 

Rome, 262. 

" to Naples, etc., 270. 



San Francisco to Yokohama 

Hong Kong. 31. 
SambroHead(N. S.), 59. 
Skellig Rocks, 60. 
Snowdon, 64. 
Skerries, 64. 
Scilly Rocks, 66. 
St. Agnes, 66. 
Start Point, 67. 
St. Alban's Head, 67. 
Solent (river), 67. 
Spithead, 67. 
Southampton, 68. 
St. Catharine's, 68. 
South Foreland (The), 68. 
Sanda Island, 70. 
Stronaclachar, 103. 
Stirling, 105. 

Castle, 105. 
" Carse, 106. 
Staffa, 108. 
Stafford, 123. 



and 



Shakspeare Neighborhoods of War- 
wickshire, route to, 140. 

Stratford-on-Avon, 147. 

Sheffield, 150. 

Scarborough, 152. 

Shields, 157. 

Seine (river), 166. 

St. Cloud, 178. 

Sevres, 178. 

St. Denis, 181. 

Sallanches, 195. 

Scherlingen-Thun, 197. 

Strasbourg, 204. 

Cathedral, 204. 
" to Baden-Baden, 206. 

St. Michel, 232. 

Susa, 233. 

St. Remy, 234. 

St. Bernard Route, 234. 
" Hospice, 235. 

St. Gotthard Route, 238. 
Hospice, 239. 

Simplon Pass and Route, 241. 
" Hospice, 242. 

Sion, 241. 

Seville, 283. 

Smyrna, 291. 

to Beirut (Syria), 292. 

Sphynx (The), 295. 



T 

Tnskar (light), 63. 
Tory Island, 70. 
Tarbet, 102. 
Trossachs (The), 103. 
Turk (Brigg of), 104. 
Tonnerre, 184. 
Turin, 244. 
Toulon, 276. 
Trieste, 288. 

" to Athens, etc., 289. 
Tangier, 285. 



U 



Ushant, 72. 
Unterseen, 197. 



Versailles, 178. 
Valley of the Rhone, 184. 
Villeueuve, 191. 
Verona, 252. 

" Excursion to Mantua, 2o3. 
Vicenza, 254. 
Venice, 254. 

" to Florence, Rome, etc., 2o7. 



INDEX. 



329 



Vesuvius (Mt), 272. 
Valladolid, 2S0. 



W 

Wicklow Mountains, 64. 
Windsor Castle, 130. 
Windermere Lakes, 135. 

" route to, 135. 

" to Furness Abbey, 139. 

Wigan, 136. 



Wolverhampton, 142. 
Warwick, 146. 

" Castle, 146. 
Wengern Alp, 199. 
Weggis, 202. 
Weisbaden, 213. 
Waterloo (Field of), 222. 



Y 

York, 156. 

" Minster. 156. 



EEMINDEES FOE EUEOPEAN EAMBLEES. 

[L* this department, in subsequent years as well as the present, nothing 
will be alluded to in any other words than those of the strictest truth,— 
just as nothing whatever will be taken, in the "announcement" depart- 
ment to which it refers, having the slightest shade of impropriety or that 
does not commend itself to the best judgment of travellers, when abroad, 
or after their return to America. It is the intention of the author and pub- 
lishers, in later editions, to call attention to such hotels and mercantile 
houses in the leading European cities and at the great European watering- 
places, as manifest at once their desire to be put more prominently before 
the body of American tourists, and their fitness to fill the places thus as- 
sumed. For the present year, and pending necessary investigations, the 
brief references here made are exclusively to "things at home."] 

In an early paper of the " Short-Trip Guide," 
some reference was made to the fact that Americans, 
paying first visits to Europe, would not find every- 
thing better than their own / and the few words fol- 
lowing are to be devoted to citing a few of the in- 
stances to which attention has been specially called, 
and which the New World, where it is not linked 
with the Old, certainly stands no whit behind it. 

On no part of the globe, for instance, can the 
tourist expect to find hotels supplying both splendor 
and comfort, to, a greater degree than the best of 
those of New York and some of the other leading 
American cities. They have long been creditable 
wonders, in the estimation of travellers and the 
pencillings of writers. 

Of course first among them, as the down-town 
New York hotel that the people would no more allow 
to be moved than the City Hall, stands the noble old 
Astor House, its massive granite outside as com- 



• REMINDERS, ETC. 331 

man ding as ever, and the unbounded extent of the 
interior just thoroughly refitted with all the luxury 
known to modern art ; while its location opposite 
the Park and the new Post Office, at the city-centre, 
as well as the centre of business and the termini of 
nearly all the lines of cars in New York, must com- 
bine with the life-long reputation of Col. Charles A. 
Stetson and his sons, Alex. McC. and P. Peddington, 
to keep it for niaDy a long year at the head of the 
hotels of the Western Continent and make its repu- 
tation as enduring as its material and architecture. 
Closely linked with this is the splendid new St. 
James, on Franklin Square, Boston, just opened un- 
der the management of Mr. J. P. M. Stetson, and 
admitted to be, in every detail, the very perfection 
of beauty as a building, without and within, and of 
liberal taste in arrangement and conveniences for the 
comfort of guests ; while still a third, the Stetson 
House, Long Branch (New Jersey), supplies the 
most elegant building on the whole coast, the most 
complete accommodations shown at any American 
seaside watering-place, and yet one more proof, in 
the management of Mr. Charles A. Stetson, Jr., that 
there is not one of this able family but knows ".how 
to keep a hotel." Quite the equal of the Astor and 
its dependencies in importance and popular favor, 
too, the tourist will remember the splendid up-town 
hotel, the Everett House, with its unequalled loca- 
tion in full front on Union Square, New York ; its 
proximity to all the more aristocratic places of amuse- 
ment ; the magnificence of its unusually large suites 
of rooms, in which not a potentate of Europe would 



332 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

not think himself honored in being accommodated ; 
the perfection of its every service ; and last, but by 
no means least, the air of cheerful and elegant com- 
fort which Mr. Borrows and his capable assistants 
have the faculty of throwing round any house under 
their management. Nothing beyond these houses 
(and some of the others which we may have occa- 
sion to characterize in our next issue) can be found 
in Europe ; and seldom are they even approached. 

Among the attractions which the tourist will 
find abroad, will of course be music. But he will 
not be long in remembering, listening to it, say in 
Paris, that a firm of American piano-manufacturers, 
the Messrs. Steistway, won the first prize over all 
European and American competitors, at the Great 
French Exposition, after receiving the applause of 
the finest musicians of the Old World and delighting 
uncounted thousands with the power and sweetness 
of their instruments, — and stand, to-day, confessedly 
at the head of that difiicult branch of constructive 
art, in the whole world. He will see billiards played ; 
but he will not be likely to ignore the great masters 
of the cue whom he has left behind in America, and 
especially Michael Phelan, the "Father of Billiards," 
in the elevation which he has been the means of 
giving to that most excellent and gentlemanlike 
amusement, and the benefactor to the whole billiard- 
world which he has become, in supplying, in con- 
junction with his practical partner, Mr. Collender, the 
Standard, American Billiard Table, matchless on 
either continent and indispensable wherever amuse- 
ment has risen to the dignity of an art. 



- REMINDERS, ETC. 333 

The tourist will deal with European bankers, 
wisely taking a hint already given and carrying over 
his funds in drafts or letters of credit, issued by some 
one or more of the almost royal houses in finance, 
bearing the honored names of Duncan, Sherman & 
Co., of Pine and Nassau Streets, who have supplied 
exchange, and courteous dealing in effecting it, to 
half the travelling generation ; Brown Brothers 
& Co., of 59 Wall Street, whose very title suggests 
Parliament, British solidity married to American 
thrift, and the Bank of England ; James G-. King's 
Sons, of 54 William Street, their name, like their 
reputation, one that the nation has delighted to 
honor.; or John Munroe & Co., of No. 8 Wall 
Street, who have not only effected exchange for 
thousand upon thousand of Europe-bound Ameri- 
cans, but laid them under lasting obligations by care 
of their letters, free-reading-rooms and general cour- 
tesy, at their corresponding banking-house at No. V 
Rue Scribe, Paris. 

He will look upon great enterprizes in the Old 
World ; but he must not expect to find any one of 
them — not even the work of tunnelling the Alps or 
opening the Suez Canal, at all to be compared with 
that which the Union Pacific Railroad Company 
are now so rapidly pushing forward to completion, 
with almost a certainty of finishing it to the Pacific 
by 1870, and the certainties of rich return for invest- 
ments, to those who purchase their bonds, such as no 
other enterprize of the age has dreamed of offering. 

He will probably visit some of the great Spa- 
springs of Europe — Kissingen, or Baden, or Yichy, 



834 SHORT-TRIP GUIDE. 

and drink the health-giving waters ; hut in the midst 
of all the gaieties there he will remember the Mis- 
sisquoi Spring, far away in the Green Mountains of 
American Vermont, and with agencies for the sale 
of its waters now established everywhere, — doing 
every day, in the cure of Cancer, Kidney-diseases, 
and many others before held incurable, a work as- 
tounding the doctors and electrifying the world. 

Our tourist, acting upon a previous hint, may 
and should insure his life before leaving America. 
Whether or not he selects the Equitable Life As- 
surance Society op the United States, 92 Broad- 
way, New York, as the medium of that great jus- 
tice to himself and his family — one thing is sure, 
that he will not find, even in life-assuring England, 
the parallel of that nobly-managed purely-mutual 
institution, growing faster, and ameliorating the 
condition of more families, than any other of its 
class in existence. 

He may need jew elry, and fancy, in advance, that 
he can find it in richer profusion abroad than at 
home. But if, before he leaves, he should chance to 
encounter the griffin of C. A. Stevens, the jeweller 
par excellence, of New York Fourteenth St. (a cut of 
which wonderful animal has been kindly loaned to 
make this paragraph clearer), then he may find him- 
self amid such a profusion of all that is rich, rare 
and tasteful, in jewelry, bijouterie, plate and articles 
of vertu, as scarcely to allow him to go to Paris or 
Geneva with many desires unfilled. 

Finally, it scarcely matters on what steamer he 
may take his way to Europe, he is not likely to es- 



I 



REMINDERS, ETC. 335 

cape admiring his handsome face in a mirror supplied 
by that prince of dealers in looking-glasses, picture- 
frames, chromos and other pictures, John S. Wil- 
laed, of Canal Street, who not only manufactures 
and supplies all that is elegant and excellent in his 
line, but has (and deserves) a preemption on all the 
vessels that carry vain and mirror-gazing humanity 
over the waters of the world. 



29 



THE END. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



Guide-Books for Travellers, 

PUBLISHED BY 

D. APPLE TON & CO. 



Appletons' Illustrated Railway and 
Steam Navigation Guide, 

Containing the Time-Tables of the Railways of the United States and 
the Canadas. Also, One Hundred Railway Maps, together with 
Monthly Account of Railways and their Progress, and Anecdotes 
and Incidents of Travel, etc., etc. 

ii. 

Appletons' Hand-Book of Ameri- 
can Travel, 

Containing a Full Description of the Principal Cities, Towns, and Places 
of Interest, together with the Routes of Travel and Leading Hotels 
throughout the United States and British Provinces, i vol., i2mo. 
Illustrated with Maps S4- 00 

in. 

Appletons' Northern Hand-Book 
of Travel, 

Containing an Account of the Principal Watering Places and Summer 
Resorts, including Niagara, Trenton Falls, Lake Superior, etc. 
Illustrated with Maps. 1 vol., i2mo $2.00 

IV. 

Appletons' Southern Hand-Book 
of Travel, 

Containing a Complete Account of all the Cities and Towns in the 
Southern States. Illustrated with Maps. I vol., nmo. . .$2.00 



SEORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



APPLETONS' 

(so-called) 




OF THE 



Works of Charles Dickens, 

Now Complete, in 18 Vols. Paper Covers. Price, $5.00. 

LIST OF THE WORKS. 



Oliver Twist 172 pp . . 25 cts. 

American Notes 104 " 15 " 

Dombey and Son 356 " 35 " 

Martin Chuzzlewit 341 " 35 " 

Our Mutual Friend 340 " 35 " 

Christmas Stories 163 " 25 " 

Tale of Two Cities 144 " 20 " 

Hard Times, and Addi- 
tional Christmas Sto- 
ries 202 " 25 " 

Nicholas Nickleby 338 " 35 " 



Bleak House 352 pp. . 35 cts. 



Litde Dorrit 343 

Pickwick Papers 326 

David Copperfield 351 

Barnaby Rudge 257 

Old Curiosity Shop 221 

Great Expectations 183 

Sketches 194 

Uncommercial Traveller, 
Pictures of Italy, and 
Reprinted Pieces 300 



35 
35 
35 
3° 
30 
25 
25 



35 



LIBRARY EDITION OF 

CHARLES DICKENS'S WORKS, 

To be completed in Six Volumes, with Thirty-two Illustrations. 
Price, %\.-]$i>er vol., or $10.50 the set. 

D. Applfton & Co., Publishers, New York. 

b 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



APPLETONS' EDITION 



WAVERLEY NOVELS, 

NOW PUBLISHING. 

From New Stereotype Plates, uniform with tJie New Edition of Dickens, con- 
taining all the Notes of the A uthor, and printed froin the 
latest edition of the Authorized Text. 

TO BE COMPLETED IN TWENTY-FIVE VOLUMES. 

Price y Twenty-five Cents each. 

Printed on fine white paper, clear type, and convenient in size. 
PRONOUNCED "A MIRACLE OF CHEAPNESS." 



ORDER OF ISSUE. 



WAVERLEY. 

P7ANH0E. 

KENILWORTH. 

GUY MANNERLNG. 

ANTIQUARY. 

ROB ROY. 

OLD MORTALITY. 

THE BLACK DWARF, and A LEGEND 

OF MONTROSE. 
BRIDE OF LAMMERMOOR. 
HEART OF MID-LOTHIAN. 
THE MONASTERY. 
THE ABBOT. 
THE PIRATE. 



14. FORTUNES OF NIGEL. 

15. PEVERIL OF THE PEAK. 

16. QUENTIN DURWARD. 

17. ST. RONAN'S WELL. 

18. REDGAUNTLET. 

19. THE BETROTHED, and HIGHLAND 

WIDOW. 

20. THE TALISMAN. 

21. WOODSTOCK. 

22. FAIR MAID OF PERTH. 

23. ANNE OF GErERSTEIN. 

24. COUNT ROBERT OF PARIS. 

25. THE SURGEON'S DAUGHTER. 



The first volume, "Waverley," issued on February 22, 1868. A volume 
will be published about once a fortnight, until the Series is completed. Any 
volume mailed, post free, on receipt of price. 

For SIX DOLLARS we will send by mail, prepaid, as fast as published, the 
entire set of Waverley Novels, and a copy of a new Steel-plate Portrait 
of Sir Walter Scott, suitable for framing. 

For TEN DOLLARS we will send by mail, prepaid, a set of Dickens (in 
uniform style), 18 volumes, and Waverley, 25 volumes. The cheapest Ten 
Dollars' worth to be found in the whole range of Literature. Forty-three vol- 
umes for ten dollars ! 

Any Fifty Volumes, selected at pleasure, will be sent to one address (by 
express at the expense of the purchaser) on receipt of the retail price, less 20 
Per cent. 

Any One Hundred Volumes, selected at pleasure, will be sent to one ad- 
dress (by express at the expense of the purchaser) on receipt of the retail price, 
less 25 per cent. 

D. APPLETON & CO., 

90, 92 & 94 GRAND STREET. 



SHORT- TRIP a UIDE.—ANNO UN CEMENTS. 



1868. CUNARD LINE. 1868. 



BRITISH AND NORTH AMERICAN 

Royal Mail Steamships, 

Between New York and Liverpool, 

CALLING AT CORK HARBOR. 

MAIL STEAMERS, CARRYING NO EMIGRANTS. 

Scotia, Russia, Cuba, 

Persia, Java, China, 

Australasian. 

From New York, every Wednesday. 

From Liverpool, every Saturday. 

RATES OF PASSAGE. 

From New York to Liverpool, Cabin $130.00 gold. 

" " Second Cabin 80.00 , " 

" to Paris, Cabin 145.00 " 

From Liverpool to New York, Cabin £26. 

« « Second Cabin £18. 

Extra Steamers, carrying First and Third Class. 

Siberia, Palmyra, Tripoli, 

Samaria, Tarifa, Aleppo, 

Malta, Marathon, Morocco, 

Hecla, Kedar, Sidon, 

Olympus. 

From New York, every Thursday. 

From Liverpool, every Tuesday. 

RATES OF PASSAGE. 

From New York to Liverpool, Cabin $80.00 gold. 

From Liverpool to New York, Cabin 15, 17, and 21 guineas. 

For freight or passage, apply to 
Ives G. Bates, Boston ; D. & C. MacIver, Queenstown ; 
D. & C. MacIver, Liverpool. 

E. CUNARD, 

4 Bowling Green & iii Broadway, N. Y. 
a 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



1868. 



STEJMERS TO FRANCE DIRECT, 

Transit by Railroad, and crossing the English 
Channel avoided. 



THE , 

General Transatlantic Co.'s 

FIRST-CLASS STEAMSHIPS, 

Under Government Contract to carry the Mails between 

NEW YORK AND HAVRE, 

CALLING AT BREST EACH WAY. 
Sailing from New York every alternate Saturday. 

From Havre every alternate Thursday, and Brest, 

Saturday. 



Pereire. 
Napoleon III. 
St. Laurent. 
Lafayette. 



Ville de Paris. 

Europe. 

Lafayette. 

Washington. 



The Steamers of this Line do not carry Steerage 

Passengers. 

MEDICAL ATTENDANCE FREE OF CHARGE. 

For Freight or Passage, apply to 

GEORGE MACKENZIE, Agent, 

58 Broadway, New York. 

At PARIS, 12 Boulevard des Capucines (Grand Hotel). 

At HAVRE, Messrs. Wm. Iselin & Co. 

At BREST, Messrs. Kerjegu & Villeferon. 

The Company's Wharf at New York is at the foot of Mor- 
ton Street, Pier No. 50, North River. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 

NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, 

INMAN LINE. 



THE LIVERPOOL, NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA 
STEAMSHIP COMPANY 

Will dispatch the following splendid full-powered Clyde-built Steam- 
ships, from New York for Liverpool, and 
all Parts of Europe, 

Every Saturday, at i p. m. 5 from 
Pier 45, N. R., 

Carrying the British and United States Mails. 

CITY OF PARIS Capt. Kennedy. 

" ANTWERP " Mirehouse. 

" LONDON " Brooks. 

" BOSTON " Roskell. 

" BALTIMORE " Leitch. 

" BROOKLYN (building) 



HALIFAX BRA'NCH. 

For Halifax, N. S., and Liverpool, every Alternate 

Monday. 

Carrying the British and United States Mails. 

CITY OF NEW YORK Capt. Tibbits. 

WASHINGTON " Halcrow. 

ETNA -. " Bridgman. 

RATES OF PASSAGE. 

To Liverpool $100 gold. From Liverpool, $75, $85, $105, gold. 

' Halifax 20 " A reduction of ten per cent, allowed 

on return tickets. 



JOHN G. DALE, Agent, 

No. 15 BROADWAY, New York. 
PHILADELPHIA OFFICE, 411 Chestnut Street. 

/ 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 
THE 

National Steamship Company 

(limited) 

Dispatch the following Splendid and Commodious Ships 

of their Line, 

FROM NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, 

CALLING AT CORK HARBOR, 

Every Saturday, 

From the Company's Wharf, Pier 47, North River. 

FRANCE Capt. Grace. 

ENGLAND Capt. Thompson. 

THE QUEEN Capt. Grogan. 

DENMARK Capt. Thomson. 

HELVETIA Capt. Cutting. 

ERIN Capt. Hall. 

PENNSYLVANIA Capt. Lewis. 

VIRGINIA Capt. Prowse. 

LOUISIANA. . . • Capt. Webster. 



Rates of Passage, payable in U. S. Currency. 

To Liverpool or Queenstown $ I oo 

London Iio 

Hamburg 125 

Bremen 135 

Antwerp „ o o 1 25 

Havre 125 

Paris 125 

Tickets to Liverpool and Return 180 

Prepaid Cabin Tickets from Liverpool or Queenstown 90 

For further information, apply to 

F. W. J. HURST, Manager, 

57 BROADWAY. 
9 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



New York and Liverpool Steamers, 



LIVERPOOL AND GREAT WESTERN 
STEAM COMPANY 

Dispatch the following New First-class, Full-power Steamships, sailing 

as follows : 

From Liverpool on Tuesdays. 

From New York on Wednesdays. 

COLORADO... R. C. Cutting 3,015 tons, 

MINNESOTA Jas. Price 2,965 

MANHATTAN J. A. Williams 2,965 

NEBRASKA Jas. Guard 3,392 

NEVADA 3,000 

IDAHO 3,000 



STATE-ROOMS LARGE AND WELL VENTILATED. 

state-rooms and saloons all on deck. 



AGENTS. 

Guion & Co Liverpool. 

J. M. Currie '. .. Paris and Havre. 

A. S. Petrie & Co London. 

WILLIAMS & GUION, 

71 Wall Street, New York. 
h 



SHORT- TRIP G HIDE.— ANNO UNCEMENTS. 

NORTH GERMAN LLOYD. 

STEAM BETWEEN 

NEW YORK AND BREMEN, 

VIA SOUTHAMPTON. 

The Screw Steamers of the North German Lloyd 

AMERIC A Capt. G. Ernst. UNION .... Capt. H. J. Von Santen. 

NEW YORK Capt. F. Dreyer. WESER Capt. G. Wenke. 

HERMANN .... Capt. W. H. Wenke. RHELN (building) . Capt. J. C.Meyer. 

HANSA. . . .Capt. K. V. Oterendorp. MAIN (building). 

BREMEN. . Capt. H. A. F.Nevnaber. DONAU (building). 
DEUTSCHLAND . Capt. H. Wessels. 

Run regularly between New York, Bremen, and Southampton. 

Carrying the United States, British, and German Mails. 

From Bremen, every Saturday. From Southampton, every Tuesday. 

From New York, every Thursday. 

PRICE OF PASSAGE. 

From JVe=zv York to Bremen, London, Havre and Southampton. 
First Cabin, §120.00; Second Cabin, §72.00; Steerage, §36.00. 

From Bremen, London, Havre or Southampton, to Netu York. 
First Cabin, $120.00; Second Cabin, §72.00; Steerage, §40.00. 

Price of Passage payable in Gold. 
This Company also dispatches regularly, on the first of each month, 

From Bremen and Baltimore, 

Via Southampton, 
The new first-class Steamships, 

BALTIMORE Capt. Vockler. | BERLIN Capt. Undutscb. 

Price of Passage from Baltimore to Bremen, Southampton, London, 
or Havre : Cabin, §90; Steerage, §36. From Bremen, Southampton, 
London or Havre, to Baltimore : Cabin, §90 ; Steerage, §40. Payable 
in gold. 

Tbe above vessels have been constructed in tbe most approved manner ; 
they are of 3,000 tons, and 700 horse-power each, and are commanded by men 
of character and experience, who will make every exertion to promote the 
comfort and convenience of passengers. They touch at Southampton, on 
the outward trip, for the purpose of landing passengers for England and 
France. 

These vessels take freight to London and Hull, for which through bills 
of lading are signed. 

An experienced surgeon is attached to each vessel. 

All letters must pass through the post-office. 

gW" Specie taken to Havre, Southampton, and Bremen, at the lowest 
rates. — For further particulars, apply to 

The North German Lloyd, Bremen ; Oelrichs & Co., 
New York; A. Schumacher & Co., Baltimore; 
Keller, Wallis & Postlethwaite, Southampton ; 
Phillipps, Graves, Phillipfs & Co., London; 
Lherbette, Kane & Co., Paris and Havre. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



Anchor Line of Steamships 

TO AND FROM 

NEW YORK and GLASGOW, 

CALLING AT MOVILLE, LONDONDERRY, 

To Land and Embark Passengers. 

The full-powered Clyde-built Steamships 



Steamer. Captain. 

EUROPA J. Craig. 

Columbia. .G. Carnaghan. 
Hibernia. . .R. D. Munro. 
Caledonia. .J. Macdonald. 



Steamer. Captain. 

Iowa J. Hedderwick. 

Britannia J. Laird. 

United Kingdom. 

J. Donaldson. 



Cambria (building). 

Sail from Pier 2,0, N. R., New York, 

Every Saturday, at Noon. 



RATES OF PASSAGE, PAYABLE IN CURRENC 


:y. 




From New York to 


Cabins 


Round Trip. 


Interm 


Steer. 


Glasgow or 


Derry . 


. $90 and 


$75.. $l6o... 


•$35- 


..$30 


London via 


Leith. . 


.100 " 


85.. 180... 


. 40. 


•• 35 


Havre " 


a 


no " 


95 . . 200 . . . 


. 42. 


•• 37 


Hamburg 


a 


no " 


95 . . 200 . . . 


. 42. 


•• 37 


Rotterdam 


a 


no " 


95 . . 200 . . . 


. 42. 


•• 37 


Antwerp 


a 


110 " 


95 . . 200 . . . 


, 42. 


•• 37 



Cabin Passengers Booked to and from Liverpool at same 
rates as Glasgow. 

Children 1 to 1 2 years, Half Fare. Infants Free. 

Pre-paid Certificates from Glasgow or Derry — Cabins, $90 

and $75 ; Intermediate, $47 ; Steerage, $37. 

From Hamburg, Havre, Antwerp, Rotterdam, etc. — 

Cabins, $110 and $95 ; Intermediate, $55 ; 

Steerage, $45. 

Children between One and Twelve Years Half Fare. 

Infants under One Year $5.00. 

HANDYSIDE & HENDERSON, 51 Union Street, Glasgow, or 
96 J Foyle Street, Londonderry, or 

HENDERSON BROTHERS, Agents, 

6 Bowling Green, New York. 
k 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



Pacific Mail-Steamship Company's 

THROUGH U. S. MAIL LINE 

TO 

California, Japan and China. 



Leave New York from Pier 42, North River, 1st, 9th, 
1 6th and 24th days of each month (except when either day 
falls on Sunday, then on the preceding Saturday), closely 
connecting via Panama Railroad with Steamers from 
Panama for San Francisco. Schedule time, 22 days. 

The Steamer leaving New York on the 9th of each 
month will closely connect with a steamer of the China 
Line to leave San Francisco for Yokohama the sec- 
ond day after the arrival of the Panama Steamer ; except 
when the designated day falls on Sunday; then on the fol- 
lowing DAY. 

PROPOSED DEPARTURES FROM SAN FRANCISCO, 1S68. 



" Japan," August 3. 
" China," September 1. 



" Great Republic," Oct. 3. 
" Japan," November 2. 



" China," December 3. 

The same steamer will leave Yokohama two days after 
arrival, for Hong Kong. 

The Shanghae Branch Steamer will leave Yokohama 
the day after the arrival of the main Steamer from San 
Francisco, and will touch at the Inland Seaports and 
Nagasaki. 

Through Tickets furnished to Ports of China, 
Japan and India, and State-rooms assigned on applica- 
tion. The holder may lie over at Panama, San Francisco, 
or Yokohama. 

250 pounds of baggage allowed, free, to each adult 
Cabin Passenger for Japan or China ; 100 pounds to Pas- 
sengers for San Francisco or intermediate points. 

For Passage Tickets, or further information, apply at 
the Company's Ticket Office, on the Wharf, Pier 42, North 
River, foot of Canal Street, New York, to 

F. R. BABY, Agent. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



Brown Brothers & Co., 



No. 59 WALL STREET, 
NEW YORK, 



COMMERCIAL AND TRAVELLERS' 
CREDITS, 

FOR USE IN AMERICA AND ABROAD. 



LETTERS OF CREDIT FOR TRAVELLERS, 

EXCHANGE ON LONDON AND PARIS, 
SIGHT DRAFTS ON EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW, 
STOCKS AND BONDS BOUGHT AND SOLD 

AT THE 

NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE. 



JAMES G. KING'S SONS, 

54 WILLIAM STREET, NEW YORK. 

30 m 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 

Duncan, Sherman & Co. 5 
BANKERS, 

Corner of Pine and Nassau Streets, New York, 

ISSUE 

CIRCULAR NOTES and TRAVELLING CREDITS, 

Available in all the Principal Cities of the World. 



TRANSFERS OF MONEY BY TELEGRAPH TO EUROPE 
AND THE PACIFIC COAST. 



Interest allowed on Deposit Accounts. 

John Munroe & Company, 

AMERICAN BANKERS, 

No. 7 Rue Scribe, Paris, and No. 8 Wall Street, 
New York, 

ISSUE 

CIRCULAR LETTERS of CREDIT for TRAVELLERS 

In all Parts of Europe, etc. 

ALSO, 

COMMERCIAL CREDITS. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 

EVERETT HOUSE, 

UNION SOUARE, 

NEW YORK. 

W. B. BORROWS. 



On the European Plan. 



MOST CHARMINGLY LOCATED HOUSE IN 
AMERICA. 



SUITES OF ROOMS OF ESPECIAL 
ELEGANCE, 



FRONTAGE ON THE SQUARE, 



All the Details of Luxury. 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 




ASTOR HOUSE, 

NEW YORK, •■ 

Opposite City Haix Park, 
Thoroughly refitted, and with all Latest Improvements. 

CHARLES A. STETSON'S SONS, 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



mm ■■ 




■ '■'■•'■-■tfflH 



ST. JAMES HOTEL, 

FRANKLIN SQUARE, BOSTON, Mass. 
J. P. M. STETSON, Proprietor. 

One of the best situated, most elegant, and most commodious Houses 

in America. 




STETSON HOUSE, 

LONG BRANCH, New Jersey. 
C. A. STETSON, Jr., Lessee. 

Most elegant and fashionable House on the best Beach of the American 

Coast. 

S 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— AKKOUNCEHEWTS. 

STEINWAY & SONS 

TRIUMPHANT 

AT THE 

Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867. 

STEINWAY & SONS 

HAVE BEEN AWARDED 

The First Grand Gold Medal 

For American Pianos in all Three Styles Exhibited, viz., Grand, Square, and 
Upright, this Medal being DISTINCTLY CLASSIFIED FIRST IN ORDER 
OF MERIT, and placed at the head of the List of all Exhibitors, in proof of 
which the following 

OFFICIAL CERTIFICATE 
Of the President and Members of the International Jury on Musical Instru- 
ments (Class X) is subjoined: " Paris, July 20, 1867. 

" I certify that the First Gold Medal for American Pianos has been unna- 
imously awarded to Messrs. Steinway by the Jury of the International Ex- 
hibition. First on the List in Class X. 

"MELINET, President of International Jury. 
Georges Kastner, 1 
Ambroise Thomas, [ Members of the 
Ed. Hanslick, > t 
F. E. Gevaert, International Jury." 

J. SCHIEDMAYER, J 

This ■unanhnous decision of the International Class Jury, indorsed by the 
Supreme Group Jury, and affirmed by the Imperial Commission, being the final 
verdict of the only tribtmal determining the rank of the awards at the Exposi- 
tion, places The Steinway Pianos at the head of all others, in competition with 
over Four Hundred Pianos entered by the most celebrated European and 
American manufacturers. 



STEINWAY & SONS 

WERE ALSO AWARDED A 

FIRST PRIZE MEDAL 

At the Great INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, London, x86 2 , for Power- 
ful, Clear, Brilliant, and Sympathetic Tone, with Excellence of Workmanship as 
shown in Grand and Square Pianos, in Competition with 269 Pianos from all 
parts oftJieWorld. 

STEINWAY & SONS, in addition to the above, have taken Thirty-five 
First Premiums, Gold and Silver Medals, at the Principal Fairs held in this 
country from the years 1855 to 1862 inclusive, since which time they have not 
entered their Piano-fortes at any Local Fair in the United States. 

EVERY PIANO IS WARRANTED FOR FIVE YEARS. 

Warerooms, First Floor Steinway Hall, 109 & 11 1 E. 14th Street, 
Between 4th Ave. and Irving Place, NEW YORK. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 




Diamonds, Pearls, Sapphires, 

Emeralds, Fine Jewelry, 

and Watches. 

ALSO, 

SILVER & PLATED WARE, 

FRENCH CLOCKS, FANS, 

BRONZES, OPERA GLASSES, 
AND OTHER FANCY GOODS. 

A Choice Selection to be found at 

C. A. STEVENS & CO.'S, 

40 EAST FOURTEENTH STREET, 

Union Square, New York City. 



SHORT- TRIP G UIDE.—ANNO UNCEMENTS. 
THE STANDARD 

American Billiard Table. 

This is the best and only reliable Billiard Table manufac- 
tured, and is furnished with our 

IMPROVED COMBINATION CUSHION, 

Patented November 26th, 1867. 

Besides having on hand Tables, Balls, Cloth, Cues, and every article 
appertaining to Billiards proper, we are manufacturing a 




TABLE FOR THE HOME CIRCLE, 

Patented April 21st , 1868, 

Combining the Library Table, the Dining Table, and 
the Billiard Table. 

For description and price, address 

PHELAN & COLLENDER, 

Sole Patentees and Manufacturers, 
Nos. 63, 65, 67 and 69 Crosby Street, New York. 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



550 MILES 

OF THE 

Union Pacific Railroad. 

Running West from Omaha across the Continent, 
NOW COMPLETED. 



THE WHOLE 

GRAND LINE TO THE PACIFIC 

EXPECTED TO BE 

Opened through by 1870. 



FIRST MORTGAGE BONDS 

PAY 

Six Per Cent, in Gold, 

And are offered for the present at Par, and accrued Inter- 
est at Six per Cent, in Currency, from July 1. 

OVER NINE PER CENT. INTEREST. 

Subscriptions will be received in New York, at the Company's Office, 
No. 20 Nassau Street, and by 

Continental National Bank, No. 7 Nassau Street, 
Clark, Dodge & Co., Bankers, No. 51 Wall Street, 
John J. Cisco & Son, Bankers, No. 33 Wall Street, 
and by BANKS and BANKERS generally throughout the United States, 
of whom Maps and Descriptive Pamphlets may be obtained. 

JOHN J. CISCO, Treasurer, 

NEW YORK. 



8H0MT- TRIP G UIDE.—ANNO UNOEMENTS. 

REMARKABLE CURES 

BY THE 

Missisquoi Spring Water. 

CANCER. 

Dr. Dixon, an eminent surgeon of the city of New York, and Editor of the 
Scalpel, in a letter describing the effects of this water in a case of glandular 
cancer, says : 

"It is very evident that the use of the Missisquoi Spring Water has raised this 
lady from a dying condition to comfortable health and strength. 

" EDWARD H. DIXON, M. D." 

Mrs. Dr. Lozier, Dean of the Faculty of the New York Medical College and 
Hospital for Women and Children, writes : 

"It gives me great pleasure to add my testimony to the healing properties of 
the Missisquoi Spring Water. I have at present about thirty patients using it 
Three well-defined cases of Uterine Cancer have been cured by it. ... As yet 
I have never prescribed the Missisquoi Spring Water without good effects result- 
ing from it C. S. LOZIER, M. D., 

361 West Thirty-fourth Street, New York." 

Dr. Howard, of Linden, Genesee County, N. Y., writes: 

" I wish to inform you of my cure of an internal cancer, in order that those 
who are similarly afflicted may have the benefit of my experience. ... I am an 
object of wonder to those who knew me while suffering with that terrible 
malady. I owe my life to the Missisquoi Spring Water. I believe it to be a 
specific for cancer, and, from what I have seen of its effects, I regard it as a 
great remedy for diseases of the kidneys and all cutaneous disorders. I have 
advised many to use it, and can bear witness to its wonderful healing powers. 

"JONATHAN HOWARD, M. D." 

Dr. Hawley, of Syracuse, N. Y., writes in relation to a case of glandular 
cancer of seven years' standing : 

"After the ulceration began it steadily progressed until the summer of 1866, 
and then it had become fully four and a half inches long by three inches wide, 
and was surrounded by an angry red margin, from which radiated in every 
direction bright-red streaks, many of them from six to eight inches long. The 
ulcer secreted constantly an ichorous watery matter, and frequendy bled to an 
alarming extent. ... At the same time her general health declined, and the 
stomach became so irritable as to loath all food and almost reject it as soon as 
taken. Every symptom presaged an early fatal termination." 

After using the Missisquoi Spring Water, he adds : " In short, her health 
was renewed. Yours truly, WILLIAM A. HAWLEY, M. D." 

DISEASES OF THE KIDNEYS. 

In all diseases of the Kidneys and Bladder the Missisquoi Spring Water 
acts as a diuretic with marvellous effect It is a specific in those cases. Hun- 
dreds have been cured by it. 

IMPURITIES OF THE BLOOD. 

The Water is a powerful tonic, and a great remedy for all diseases arising 
from impurity of the blood. 

Pamphlets containing an account of the above and other wonderful cures, 
attested by eminent physicians, can be had gratis by calling at or addressing 
a note to 

MISSISQUOI SPRINGS, 

535 BROADWAY, CITY OF NEW YORK. 
V 



SHORT- TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 

John S. Willard & Co., 

MANUFACTURERS OF THE 

PRIZE MEDAL MIRRORS, 




Always on band, English, French, and American 

Chromos. 



SHORT-TRIP GUIDE.— ANNOUNCEMENTS. 
THE GREATEST AMERICAN IDEA 

OF A 

PROGRESSIVE AND PRACTICAL AGE, 

IS THE 

AMERICAN SYSTEM 



MUTUAL LIFE ASSURANCE, 

OF WHICH 

The Best Exponent is the 
EQUITABLE LIFE ASSURANCE ASSO- 
CIATION, 

Office, No. 92 Broadway, New York. 

WILLIAM C. ALEXANDER, President. 

HENRY B. HYDE, Vice-President. 
GEO. W. PHILLIPS, Actuary. 
JAMES W. ALEXANDER, Secretary. 



Assets — $6,000,000. Income, $4,000,000. 

Policies during 1867 — $47,000,000. 



All the most desirable and popular kinds of Life and 
Endowment Policies issued, and every advan- 
tage appertaining to the business granted 
to Policy Holders. 
PURELY MUTUAL. 
The Charter of the Society requires that all Profits go 
to the Assured. 
DIVIDENDS DECLARED ANNUALLY, 

And applied as cash to the reduction of future premiums. Dividends upon 

the first year's premium may be applied to reducing the second year's 

premium, and so on annually thereafter. 
The Assured have the option annually of applying these dividends in any 

of the Five following Wats, under the rules of the Society : 
First— To the permanent increase of the sum assured ; 
Second— To the increase of the sum assured for one year or a term of years ; 
Third— To the permanent reduction of the premiums ; 
Fourth— To the reduction of the premiums for one or more years ; 
Fifth— To the reduction of the number of years in which premiums are to 

be paid. 




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